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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > First time tuner



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      09-30-2020, 04:07 AM   #1
Andyrt200
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First time tuner

I’ve been reading though as much as I can & it seems like MHD is the obvious way to go for my stock 2007 E93 335i. A lot of the posts are a good few years old though so I just wanted to check there wasn’t anything else new on the market.

After a general google before looking on here & I was about to buy a second hand JB4....

I have read through the 27 pages of the MHD thread & it seems to cover everything, I can’t bring myself to read through the 500+ pages of the other thread so I hope I’m not missing too much there?
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      09-30-2020, 04:46 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyrt200 View Post
I’ve been reading though as much as I can & it seems like MHD is the obvious way to go for my stock 2007 E93 335i. A lot of the posts are a good few years old though so I just wanted to check there wasn’t anything else new on the market.

After a general google before looking on here & I was about to buy a second hand JB4....

I have read through the 27 pages of the MHD thread & it seems to cover everything, I can’t bring myself to read through the 500+ pages of the other thread so I hope I’m not missing too much there?
MHD is the way to go, but before you tune, make sure you deal with all maintenance issues, all leaks, charge pipe upgrade, plugs etc

Then flash Stage 1 and go from there, also recommended is XHP if yours is a Auto
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      09-30-2020, 08:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
MHD is the way to go, but before you tune, make sure you deal with all maintenance issues, all leaks, charge pipe upgrade, plugs etc

Then flash Stage 1 and go from there, also recommended is XHP if yours is a Auto
Thanks, I hadn’t heard of XHP, yes it’s an auto, sounds interesting I’ll look into that.

It didn’t run when I got it, the wiring had melted into the water pump, so I fixed that & put on a new pump & stat. Then found oil pouring out of the cam cover gasket so fitted one of those. Think it’s just the oil filter that’s leaking a bit now, just checking all that at the moment, but planning the tuning is more fun! New suspension & tyres with full alignment done also.

You recommend a charge pipe before flashing any tune then?

I need to find a cheap android tablet too, the kids had some but they gave up after about 6 months so I think a second hand better one could be the way to go. I know nothing about them being all iOS or PC.
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      09-30-2020, 09:22 AM   #4
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You can tune with iOS now. You just need MHD wifi Dongle.
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      09-30-2020, 09:27 AM   #5
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MHD (for whatever mods u have done)
XHP stage 3 (dont need any others)
xDelete (for fun, optional)

Realize your quick as shit, then figure out you still run 12's in the 1/4

Custom tuning
More parts
More maintanence
Did I mention more parts?
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Tires every year or two
Did i mention more parts?
More maintanence



Welcome to the E90 forums!
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      09-30-2020, 09:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoughKnight View Post
MHD (for whatever mods u have done)
XHP stage 3 (dont need any others)
xDelete (for fun, optional)

Realize your quick as shit, then figure out you still run 12's in the 1/4

Custom tuning
More parts
More maintanence
Did I mention more parts?
CAA Membership
Tires every year or two
Did i mention more parts?
More maintanence



Welcome to the E90 forums!
Does xDelete offer something new now for RWD?

Only asking because of OP's car, if I'm not mistaken
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      09-30-2020, 11:06 AM   #7
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Just change coils (if they old) and spark plugs and go tune
N54 is idiotproof engine and stage 1 is idiotproof tune
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      09-30-2020, 11:46 AM   #8
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      09-30-2020, 12:46 PM   #9
Saif2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vladskies View Post
Does xDelete offer something new now for RWD?

Only asking because of OP's car, if I'm not mistaken
No, XDelete is only for Xdrive vehicles
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      09-30-2020, 12:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smgs1992 View Post
You can tune with iOS now. You just need MHD wifi Dongle.
That sounds very interesting interesting, thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by RoughKnight View Post
MHD (for whatever mods u have done)
XHP stage 3 (dont need any others)
xDelete (for fun, optional)

Realize your quick as shit, then figure out you still run 12's in the 1/4

Custom tuning
More parts
More maintanence
Did I mention more parts?
CAA Membership
Tires every year or two
Did i mention more parts?
More maintanence



Welcome to the E90 forums!
Thanks, if the E93 is anything like our E39 I’ll probably be on here quite a bit!

Yeah tuning can be a slippery slope, I’ll see how far it takes me
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      09-30-2020, 06:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyrt200 View Post
Thanks, I hadn’t heard of XHP, yes it’s an auto, sounds interesting I’ll look into that.

It didn’t run when I got it, the wiring had melted into the water pump, so I fixed that & put on a new pump & stat. Then found oil pouring out of the cam cover gasket so fitted one of those. Think it’s just the oil filter that’s leaking a bit now, just checking all that at the moment, but planning the tuning is more fun! New suspension & tyres with full alignment done also.

You recommend a charge pipe before flashing any tune then?

I need to find a cheap android tablet too, the kids had some but they gave up after about 6 months so I think a second hand better one could be the way to go. I know nothing about them being all iOS or PC.
I'm using VRSF Charge Pipe,

MHD is now on IOS
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      10-23-2020, 08:21 AM   #12
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Thanks again for all the advice, after a very long wait (delivery issues) the MHD wifi adapter finally turned up.

So I got connected up right away only to find it had the 7.1 stage 1 map there already! It was the 98ron map & I’ve been running it on 95ron the last year I’ve had it. I put the stage 1 95ron map to match the fuel it has & it seemed to run a bit better as you’d expect but not much different really.
So I decided to try the xHP next to see what difference that made, I went for stage 2 & was very surprised what a difference it made. The sport mode really is that now, amazing how much faster it feels when it’s basically running the map I’ve been used to the whole time I’ve had the car, lifting the torque limits really transforms the car. I noticed they have presets, I left it on the standard & it didn’t have any notice any problems with traction on the first run out. I didn’t try launching or anything but pulling out of junctions briskly was fine. The RWD setting has much lower torque limits for all the lower gear than the standard setting, I assume the RWD setting is for cars running much higher levels of tune?
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      10-23-2020, 08:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyrt200 View Post
...Think it’s just the oil filter that’s leaking a bit now...
You don't want to let that go. Depending on how bad the leak is, eventually it makes its way on to the serpentine belt. Read up on N54 shredded belts and the mayhem that often ensues.
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      10-23-2020, 09:12 AM   #14
Saif2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyrt200 View Post
Thanks again for all the advice, after a very long wait (delivery issues) the MHD wifi adapter finally turned up.

So I got connected up right away only to find it had the 7.1 stage 1 map there already! It was the 98ron map & I’ve been running it on 95ron the last year I’ve had it. I put the stage 1 95ron map to match the fuel it has & it seemed to run a bit better as you’d expect but not much different really.
So I decided to try the xHP next to see what difference that made, I went for stage 2 & was very surprised what a difference it made. The sport mode really is that now, amazing how much faster it feels when it’s basically running the map I’ve been used to the whole time I’ve had the car, lifting the torque limits really transforms the car. I noticed they have presets, I left it on the standard & it didn’t have any notice any problems with traction on the first run out. I didn’t try launching or anything but pulling out of junctions briskly was fine. The RWD setting has much lower torque limits for all the lower gear than the standard setting, I assume the RWD setting is for cars running much higher levels of tune?
If you can get hold of 98ron/93oct fuel then flash that map, there is a significant difference between the 95ron/91oct.

95ron/91oct is basically the worst fuel which will give the least power/torque

RWD torque limits on XHP is recommended for tuned rear wheel drive cars.

You only really need to limit 1st and maybe 2nd a little, lower than the rest when you go higher levels of tune, due to the torque overwhelming the rear wheels.
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      10-23-2020, 11:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
You don't want to let that go. Depending on how bad the leak is, eventually it makes its way on to the serpentine belt. Read up on N54 shredded belts and the mayhem that often ensues.
+1 OP take it from someone who's belts were munched because the previous owner was a moron who left the car with multiple leaks

Oil/Coolant leaks on a N54 can and will lead to disaster if not fixed.
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      10-23-2020, 01:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
You don't want to let that go. Depending on how bad the leak is, eventually it makes its way on to the serpentine belt. Read up on N54 shredded belts and the mayhem that often ensues.
Its not too bad, belts seem fine, I will check them thoroughly now though! It seems to be more from the oil cooler connection to the filter but I’ll do them both, its the next job on the list will order the parts next week.

I see the charge pipe has to come out to do it, guess I should put a better one in really but it’s actually been fine the last year I’ve been running Stage 1 with out knowing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
If you can get hold of 98ron/93oct fuel then flash that map, there is a significant difference between the 95ron/91oct.

95ron/91oct is basically the worst fuel which will give the least power/torque

RWD torque limits on XHP is recommended for tuned rear wheel drive cars.

You only really need to limit 1st and maybe 2nd a little, lower than the rest when you go higher levels of tune, due to the torque overwhelming the rear wheels.
I was wondering how much difference the 98ron map made. Will run it dry on the 95, fill up with 98 then try that map then!

Thought I’d check the figures:





From the limited amount of logging I have so far ut shows a torque of about 550Nm, not sure how accurate that is but assuming its in the ball park it’s not going to make much difference which setting I use for anything other than first gear!

Makes me wonder how low the original torque values were.
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      10-23-2020, 01:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyrt200 View Post
Its not too bad, belts seem fine, I will check them thoroughly now though! It seems to be more from the oil cooler connection to the filter but I’ll do them both, its the next job on the list will order the parts next week.

I see the charge pipe has to come out to do it, guess I should put a better one in really but it’s actually been fine the last year I’ve been running Stage 1 with out knowing!

I was wondering how much difference the 98ron map made. Will run it dry on the 95, fill up with 98 then try that map then!

Thought I’d check the figures:





From the limited amount of logging I have so far ut shows a torque of about 550Nm, not sure how accurate that is but assuming its in the ball park it’s not going to make much difference which setting I use for anything other than first gear!

Makes me wonder how low the original torque values were.
It's 400nm stock torque.

Yeah I'd leave it as it is on RWD preset, unless you are having traction issues.

Stage 1 98ron/93oct map should be around ~ 500nm maybe a bit more and about ~ 360 bhp (at the crank)

The log isn't an accurate indication of actual Torque.

Make sure you check the VCG and OFHG, and take the undertray off and check for any leaks on the bottom as well.

I had coolant leaks from radiator, OFHG, VCG, and both Crank seals (front and rear) all leaking, plus shredded belts found inside when valve cover was taken off 🤦. It was a pain in the butt fixing all of them. Once I had them sorted, been leak free.

Last edited by Saif2018; 10-24-2020 at 09:54 AM..
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      10-24-2020, 10:15 AM   #18
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Replace your coolant hose flange fitting thing (front of the block).
Can leave you stranded. Costs $12 to replace and is very easy to do. Like a perfect thing to DIY for a first timer to gain confidence.
You'd have to be a big ignoramus to not do it.
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      11-30-2020, 04:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwss View Post
Replace your coolant hose flange fitting thing (front of the block).
Can leave you stranded. Costs $12 to replace and is very easy to do. Like a perfect thing to DIY for a first timer to gain confidence.
You'd have to be a big ignoramus to not do it.
Not sure what you mean there? The takeoff from the oil cooler is cast ally, I changed the top coolant hose that fits to it as the little fitting for the small pipe over the top of the rad snapped off it. That little pipe itself had been changed a few years ago it had the date on it & it was still nice & flexible. I found a receipt for new coils & plugs from 2017 too so it was obviously well looked after.

I cleaned up the valves while I was changing the filter & oil cooler gaskets:



Only took a light scraping to get this:



If that’s the built up from 90k miles it’s not bad, but given the fact it had the MHD V7 flash on it & probably had the new coils & plugs at the same time I guess it could have been walnut blasted too.

Cleaning them did take longer than planned though, when I came out the next morning I was surprised to find three puddles of oil under it:



The two front ones are obviously directly from the oil that came out when removing the filter housing (I took the cooler pipes off first but a good amount still came out as I didn’t have the correct tool for removing the oil filter!).

The rear puddle was directly under the gearbox bell housing / engine joint:



It’s always had a little drip coming from there, but nothing that’s come close to any puddle before. I did read on here it can make its way back there but wasn’t sure how. Looks like it makes it was along the sump gasket (it protrudes slightly)
from the front to the back to drip out there. With any luck that will be the end of the leaks...
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      12-01-2020, 05:42 PM   #20
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Coolant flange is at the top front of the block under the OFHG. Has a black 1" hose leading to it. Secured by 2 bolts. Has a solid, silver, fixed hose clamp on it.
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      12-21-2020, 07:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwss View Post
Coolant flange is at the top front of the block under the OFHG. Has a black 1" hose leading to it. Secured by 2 bolts. Has a solid, silver, fixed hose clamp on it.
I picked one of these up, I’m guessing it must be what you’re talking about?

Its in bits again at the moment while I fit new waistgates so should be easy to fit.

I’ve had the E93 just over a year now, luckily got it cheap needing a new water pump & wiring that had shorted into the old one.
Found it need the cam covers gasket before using it.
Then had a load of leaks to fix on the folding roof.
Had to do the rear windows mechanism as the drain was blocked & it was under water.
New springs & shocks all round with full alignment.
Re-sprayed the wheels & fitted new non runflats tires.
Front spoiler
Oil filter / cooler gaskets
Now doing the waist gates so have DPs to go back on.

It had new coils before I got it, what else should I be looking forward to next year?!
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