Possible water damage? Help please :(

Savage520 · 12-05-2018, 01:29 AM

So idk if any of you remember but I have a project 07 328i I've been working on. Well I changed the VC and gaskets, some coolant lines, battery, pcv breather hose and valve just This past month. She's been running like a dream! As it's gotten colder out here I've been getting intermittent starter troubles so I figured I'd go ahead and do the starter. I was doing it during my work week so I split it up into two nights, one to disassemble and one to reassemble. First night goes fine other than a broken starter bolt that needed to be extracted, pulled it and headed to bed. Now here's where everything gets shitty. I wake up to the sound of thunder in the middle of the night. I don't have a garage but I do have a car port. I ran out to find my new daily getting just shit on by this storm so I ran and pushed the car under the car port and went back to bed. I tried not to think about the possibility of water damage and just went back to bed. So I finish the job tonight, connect the battery and click the start button. Now on the bright side, the car cranks like a dream, that new battery and starter really made a difference. If only the story ended there, the car will not start. And on top of that I have new engine codes and warnings. I get a warning on the iDrive that the fuel pump is malfunctioning (which I'm pretty sure I can hear the damn thing priming non stop if the ignition is on, as opposed to going for a second then stopping) I am getting fuel at the rail though, not sure at what pressure yet. I'm pretty sure the water pump runs non stop too cause I went to fill the coolant since I replaced a rotting hose while I had the manifold off, and I can see the water flowing non stop. There's a warning stating that the gears can be changed without depressing the brake petal, which is correct. Transmission malfunction. There's [IMG][/IMG]also a warning that the DSC is inop. I will attach DTC codes. Does anybody have any idea what the fuck is going on with my car? Did I fry the ecu? I've put a lot of money and work into this car and I'll do whatever I can to get her back on the road. Any help from y'all is much appreciated. After a taste of her I really would hate to see her go because I didn't check the weather before bed

I have the ecu out of the car rn and am attempting to remove any moisture that may be in there. While checking for corrosion on the pins. What should I check next? I have a bimmergeeks cable but haven't been able to get it to communicate with inpa on my laptop or I'd have more info for y'all. I'll owe whoever helps me get her back on the road the biggest joint/tallest beer, please y'all.

robthewrench · 12-05-2018, 07:16 AM

Did you leave the hood open? You should not be getting water in the ECU from just a thunderstorm. It rains all the time here in the northeast and this is not a problem.

Savage520 · 12-05-2018, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robthewrench

Did you leave the hood open? You should not be getting water in the ECU from just a thunderstorm. It rains all the time here in the northeast and this is not a problem.

Yes, the hood was open, the cowl was also removed. I was mid way through changing the starter

Savage520 · 12-06-2018, 01:01 PM

Update, I've cleaned the ecm and connectors, codes went away and the car will start if I give it gas but when I take my foot off the pedal it just sputters for a second then dies. Read a lot about people just drying out the box and having their car come back to life so im hoping I'll be one of those lucky folks. At work right now, left the car at home with fans running in the fuse box and engine bay. Checked all fuses and relays yesterday and they surprisingly all seem to be in working order, will probably run through again tonight to be sure. Planning on running electric cleaner through all connections again once I'm home and maybe this time following up with dielectric grease. Also plan on cleaning all grounding points. Any input? Thank y'all for all your help so far.

Savage520 · 12-08-2018, 08:36 PM

So after two days of fighting I finally got inpa running on my laptop, first thing I notice is that my fuel pressure does not fluctuate at all. It stays a constant 594kpa no matter if the pump is priming or if the car is cranking over. It stays constant and never fluctuates even 1kpa. I'm sure Inpa is working as I used it with ncsExpert to code in my new battery and checked code to confirm. Other values do fluctuate but never the fuel pressure. This can't be right? Has anyone experienced this? The car is sort of running, it runs extremely rough before dying. Appreciate any input.

bluewater328 · 12-09-2018, 01:51 AM

Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens.

Check crankcase breather as well.

Savage520 · 12-09-2018, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens.

Check crankcase breather as well.

HOLY SHIT. IT STARTED RIGHT UP. THANK YOU MAN I OWE YOU BIG. I've tried this already and it didn't work but I figured I'd give it a go one more time since the cars been acting better and better. So this means faulty maf now yeah? Or what should I look to?

bluewater328 · 12-09-2018, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens.

Check crankcase breather as well.

HOLY SHIT. IT STARTED RIGHT UP. THANK YOU MAN I OWE YOU BIG. I've tried this already and it didn't work but I figured I'd give it a go one more time since the cars been acting better and better. So this means faulty maf now yeah? Or what should I look to?

Probably means there is an airflow irregularity, but could be the MAF itself is fouled as well. Reason you check the crankcase breather connections is all related: irregular airflow/vacuum that the MAF hasn't accounted for messes up the timing. It works now because it's running off map and not what the MAF is telling it to adjust based on the airflow readings it pulls.

Savage520 · 12-09-2018, 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens.

Check crankcase breather as well.

HOLY SHIT. IT STARTED RIGHT UP. THANK YOU MAN I OWE YOU BIG. I've tried this already and it didn't work but I figured I'd give it a go one more time since the cars been acting better and better. So this means faulty maf now yeah? Or what should I look to?

Probably means there is an airflow irregularity, but could be the MAF itself is fouled as well. Reason you check the crankcase is all related: irregular airflow/vacuum that the MAF hasn't accounted for messes up the timing.

When I just did the starter I replaced the ccv hose under the manifold and I replaced the pcv this month with the valve cover. All hoses seem to be plugged in. I have maf cleaner imma try rn. Will run through hose connections again while I'm in there

bluewater328 · 12-09-2018, 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens.

Check crankcase breather as well.

HOLY SHIT. IT STARTED RIGHT UP. THANK YOU MAN I OWE YOU BIG. I've tried this already and it didn't work but I figured I'd give it a go one more time since the cars been acting better and better. So this means faulty maf now yeah? Or what should I look to?

Probably means there is an airflow irregularity, but could be the MAF itself is fouled as well. Reason you check the crankcase is all related: irregular airflow/vacuum that the MAF hasn't accounted for messes up the timing.

When I just did the starter I replaced the ccv hose under the manifold and I replaced the pcv this month with the valve cover. All hoses seem to be plugged in. I have maf cleaner imma try rn. Will run through hose connections again while I'm in there

Good luck! Post back with your findings. Hopefully you're getting closer to chasing it down.

Savage520 · 12-09-2018, 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens.

Check crankcase breather as well.

HOLY SHIT. IT STARTED RIGHT UP. THANK YOU MAN I OWE YOU BIG. I've tried this already and it didn't work but I figured I'd give it a go one more time since the cars been acting better and better. So this means faulty maf now yeah? Or what should I look to?

Probably means there is an airflow irregularity, but could be the MAF itself is fouled as well. Reason you check the crankcase is all related: irregular airflow/vacuum that the MAF hasn't accounted for messes up the timing.

When I just did the starter I replaced the ccv hose under the manifold and I replaced the pcv this month with the valve cover. All hoses seem to be plugged in. I have maf cleaner imma try rn. Will run through hose connections again while I'm in there

Good luck! Post back with your findings. Hopefully you're getting closer to chasing it down.

Update -
Car is running (at least with maf unplugged) all hoses seem to be plugged in. Is it possible for a brand new ccv hose to break? I didn't want to tear the foam off to check, given that it's brand new.. but I can if necessary. Should I order a new maf? I mean I never replaced it with all the other things I've done just cause I heard the original ones perform the best unless they go out. But I guess it wouldn't hurt at this point. Any recommendations ?

Savage520 · 12-10-2018, 04:07 AM

Just another update... I was getting a bunch of weird codes from inpa about the fuel pump.... replaced that along with the fuel sending unit, cleared codes, and they havent shown back up. so theres some progress, unrelated, but progress. I am ordering a MAF sensor tonight. if anyone could give me a recommendation of a site to order from or brand? as yall know they are fairly pricey so i want to get my moneys worth. or on the other hand i heard i should try to find a used one as they work better? as always i appreciate any input from you guys.

bluewater328 · 12-10-2018, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Savage520

Just another update... I was getting a bunch of weird codes from inpa about the fuel pump.... replaced that along with the fuel sending unit, cleared codes, and they havent shown back up. so theres some progress, unrelated, but progress. I am ordering a MAF sensor tonight. if anyone could give me a recommendation of a site to order from or brand? as yall know they are fairly pricey so i want to get my moneys worth. or on the other hand i heard i should try to find a used one as they work better? as always i appreciate any input from you guys.

I like FCPEuro.com. Here's a link to the OE MAF -- haven't really seen nor heard of a generic one. This is the same manufacturer who makes the BMW-branded one, just without the branding. Also good about FCP is that if it breaks again, they'll replace it for free - Lifetime!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nsor-5wk97508z

Hows the weather in Tucson? Miss that place.

Savage520 · 12-10-2018, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Hows the weather in Tucson? Miss that place.

Man its been off let me tell you

its been wet and humid the past week, the only time i really need it to be hot and dry, go figure lol.

On a better note, Im happy to report back that after a new MAF sensor AND a new fuel tank vent hose, shes back up and running with not even a lean code. Ive not only got her running again but ive finally got that damn CEL off that has been on since i bought the car

My project is finally headed in the right direction again! thank you all for your help, ive learned so much from the members in this forum. Looking forward to sharing more updates with yall!

12-05-2018, 01:29 AM	#1
Savage520 Enlisted Member 11 Rep 44 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328i Sedan Join Date: May 2018 Location: Tucson, AZ iTrader: (0)	So idk if any of you remember but I have a project 07 328i I've been working on. Well I changed the VC and gaskets, some coolant lines, battery, pcv breather hose and valve just This past month. She's been running like a dream! As it's gotten colder out here I've been getting intermittent starter troubles so I figured I'd go ahead and do the starter. I was doing it during my work week so I split it up into two nights, one to disassemble and one to reassemble. First night goes fine other than a broken starter bolt that needed to be extracted, pulled it and headed to bed. Now here's where everything gets shitty. I wake up to the sound of thunder in the middle of the night. I don't have a garage but I do have a car port. I ran out to find my new daily getting just shit on by this storm so I ran and pushed the car under the car port and went back to bed. I tried not to think about the possibility of water damage and just went back to bed. So I finish the job tonight, connect the battery and click the start button. Now on the bright side, the car cranks like a dream, that new battery and starter really made a difference. If only the story ended there, the car will not start. And on top of that I have new engine codes and warnings. I get a warning on the iDrive that the fuel pump is malfunctioning (which I'm pretty sure I can hear the damn thing priming non stop if the ignition is on, as opposed to going for a second then stopping) I am getting fuel at the rail though, not sure at what pressure yet. I'm pretty sure the water pump runs non stop too cause I went to fill the coolant since I replaced a rotting hose while I had the manifold off, and I can see the water flowing non stop. There's a warning stating that the gears can be changed without depressing the brake petal, which is correct. Transmission malfunction. There's [IMG][/IMG]also a warning that the DSC is inop. I will attach DTC codes. Does anybody have any idea what the fuck is going on with my car? Did I fry the ecu? I've put a lot of money and work into this car and I'll do whatever I can to get her back on the road. Any help from y'all is much appreciated. After a taste of her I really would hate to see her go because I didn't check the weather before bed I have the ecu out of the car rn and am attempting to remove any moisture that may be in there. While checking for corrosion on the pins. What should I check next? I have a bimmergeeks cable but haven't been able to get it to communicate with inpa on my laptop or I'd have more info for y'all. I'll owe whoever helps me get her back on the road the biggest joint/tallest beer, please y'all. Attached Images
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12-05-2018, 07:16 AM	#2
robthewrench Captain 266 Rep 952 Posts Drives: 11 E90 335i Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Columbus OH iTrader: (0)	Did you leave the hood open? You should not be getting water in the ECU from just a thunderstorm. It rains all the time here in the northeast and this is not a problem. __________________ bone stock
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12-06-2018, 01:01 PM	#4
Savage520 Enlisted Member 11 Rep 44 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328i Sedan Join Date: May 2018 Location: Tucson, AZ iTrader: (0)	Update, I've cleaned the ecm and connectors, codes went away and the car will start if I give it gas but when I take my foot off the pedal it just sputters for a second then dies. Read a lot about people just drying out the box and having their car come back to life so im hoping I'll be one of those lucky folks. At work right now, left the car at home with fans running in the fuse box and engine bay. Checked all fuses and relays yesterday and they surprisingly all seem to be in working order, will probably run through again tonight to be sure. Planning on running electric cleaner through all connections again once I'm home and maybe this time following up with dielectric grease. Also plan on cleaning all grounding points. Any input? Thank y'all for all your help so far.
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12-08-2018, 08:36 PM	#5
Savage520 Enlisted Member 11 Rep 44 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328i Sedan Join Date: May 2018 Location: Tucson, AZ iTrader: (0)	So after two days of fighting I finally got inpa running on my laptop, first thing I notice is that my fuel pressure does not fluctuate at all. It stays a constant 594kpa no matter if the pump is priming or if the car is cranking over. It stays constant and never fluctuates even 1kpa. I'm sure Inpa is working as I used it with ncsExpert to code in my new battery and checked code to confirm. Other values do fluctuate but never the fuel pressure. This can't be right? Has anyone experienced this? The car is sort of running, it runs extremely rough before dying. Appreciate any input.
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12-09-2018, 01:51 AM	#6
bluewater328 Colonel 626 Rep 2,099 Posts Drives: 2011 bluewater 328i LCI sedan Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Hawaii iTrader: (0)	Try and pull the MAF connection out and see what happens. Check crankcase breather as well.
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12-10-2018, 04:07 AM	#12
Savage520 Enlisted Member 11 Rep 44 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328i Sedan Join Date: May 2018 Location: Tucson, AZ iTrader: (0)	Just another update... I was getting a bunch of weird codes from inpa about the fuel pump.... replaced that along with the fuel sending unit, cleared codes, and they havent shown back up. so theres some progress, unrelated, but progress. I am ordering a MAF sensor tonight. if anyone could give me a recommendation of a site to order from or brand? as yall know they are fairly pricey so i want to get my moneys worth. or on the other hand i heard i should try to find a used one as they work better? as always i appreciate any input from you guys.
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