[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Love/HateTheseCars

Got boost again!

Thanks to you(and Saif2018), I got this sorted.
Plugged the fan shroud in and all is good. Not having that connector connected throws that code and puts it into a type of limp mode.

So here is another log:
https://datazap.me/u/love-hatethesec...og=0&data=3-22

Why the sawtooth Throttle position and WGDC?
DTC is fully off

Also, I'm interested in saving the Dinan tune (this one) before I flash with MHD. Is that possible?

When you first go to flash MHD, it will ask/have you save your stock(or whatever's on the car now) file/tune.

[Love/HateTheseCars]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

When you first go to flash MHD, it will ask/have you save your stock(or whatever's on the car now) file/tune.

Got it, thanks.

Still looking for insight on the log.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Love/HateTheseCars

Got boost again!

Thanks to you(and Saif2018), I got this sorted.
Plugged the fan shroud in and all is good. Not having that connector connected throws that code and puts it into a type of limp mode.

So here is another log:
https://datazap.me/u/love-hatethesec...og=0&data=3-22

Why the sawtooth Throttle position and WGDC?
DTC is fully off

Also, I'm interested in saving the Dinan tune (this one) before I flash with MHD. Is that possible?

No worries mate,

Throttle closures are probably your Dinan tune causing it.

Looks like it's taking a while to reach boost target, should be reaching boost target within about 500rpm.

Could just be your wastegates (which you might have to adjust the rods manually) but Flash a MHD stage 1 map and relog, hopefully that will help rule out tune related issues.

[Love/HateTheseCars]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

No worries mate,

Throttle closures are probably your Dinan tune causing it.

Looks like it's taking a while to reach boost target, should be reaching boost target within about 500rpm.

Could just be your wastegates (which you might have to adjust the rods manually) but Flash a MHD stage 1 map and relog, hopefully that will help rule out tune related issues.

I'll do that.
My turbos are past the point of adjustment, I'm sure. I have rebuildable OEMs that I need to work on.
Any reccomendations as to brands of rebuild kits? Perhaps even upgrade kits / parts?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Love/HateTheseCars

I'll do that.
My turbos are past the point of adjustment, I'm sure. I have rebuildable OEMs that I need to work on.
Any reccomendations as to brands of rebuild kits? Perhaps even upgrade kits / parts?

I'd just get RB or Pure of you want reliable turbos. If you get RB's you can send your cores in and save a couple of hundred dollars, Rob also does discounts

You can email him for further info...

rob.rbturbo@gmail.com

Before you throw the turbos out though, flash a MHD and see if it makes a difference.

[Love/HateTheseCars]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

I'd just get RB or Pure of you want reliable turbos. If you get RB's you can send your cores in and save a couple of hundred dollars, Rob also does discounts

You can email him for further info...

rob.rbturbo@gmail.com

Before you throw the turbos out though, flash a MHD and see if it makes a difference.

Yeah, I'll do the flash first. I get the concept of resolving issues before adding new variables.
I was planning to rebuild myself. Use a Turbo lab of America kit.
Thoughts?

[CarAbuser]

Originally Posted by Love/HateTheseCars

Yeah, I'll do the flash first. I get the concept of resolving issues before adding new variables.
I was planning to rebuild myself. Use a Turbo lab of America kit.
Thoughts?

Don't even bother touching your turbos until you rule out much cheaper and much more common issues that cause slow spool.

Replace all vacuum lines. Plenty of DIY articles here, cost is minimal and time is 1hr at most. That's by far the most common culprit.

While doing so you can check the wastegate arm movement on the rear trubo to make sure it's not obstructed by the downpipe vbands. Just manually actuate it with your fingers and make sure it moves freely without hitting anything.

If the problem is still there you should consider a boost leak. Check intercooler connections and the chargepipe. Maybe try a pressure test if you can't find anything obvious.

You can also consider new boost solenoids as they are cheap and easy to replace.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

Don't even bother touching your turbos until you rule out much cheaper and much more common issues that cause slow spool.

Replace all vacuum lines. Plenty of DIY articles here, cost is minimal and time is 1hr at most. That's by far the most common culprit.

While doing so you can check the wastegate arm movement on the rear trubo to make sure it's not obstructed by the downpipe vbands. Just manually actuate it with your fingers and make sure it moves freely without hitting anything.

If the problem is still there you should consider a boost leak. Check intercooler connections and the chargepipe. Maybe try a pressure test if you can't find anything obvious.

You can also consider new boost solenoids as they are cheap and easy to replace.

+1 on everything CarAbuser said,

Turbos should be worst case last resort.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Love/HateTheseCars

Yeah, I'll do the flash first. I get the concept of resolving issues before adding new variables.
I was planning to rebuild myself. Use a Turbo lab of America kit.
Thoughts?

I don't know anything about them to be honest.

[djt81185]

So new to n54 but not to tuning. Got a 08 335xi AT and flashed mhd v10 stage 1+ 93 and xhp stage 3 to the car yesterday and went for a rip. Car is bone stock but figured could get away with 1+ due to how cold it is.

Anyway trying to figure out why the car is closing the throttle during WOT. It didnt feel like it was when driving it but all the logs i took show it.

Can timing correction cause throttle closure? I assume overboost and over load can. But why would mhd maps target load lower then what the car can make. Im just trying to understand whats going on with my throttle.

Thanks

https://datazap.me/u/djt81185/stock-...og=0&data=3-20

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by djt81185

So new to n54 but not to tuning. Got a 08 335xi AT and flashed mhd v10 stage 1+ 93 and xhp stage 3 to the car yesterday and went for a rip. Car is bone stock but figured could get away with 1+ due to how cold it is.

Anyway trying to figure out why the car is closing the throttle during WOT. It didnt feel like it was when driving it but all the logs i took show it.

Can timing correction cause throttle closure? I assume overboost and over load can. But why would mhd maps target load lower then what the car can make. Im just trying to understand whats going on with my throttle.

Thanks

https://datazap.me/u/djt81185/stock-...og=0&data=3-20

Was this straight after flashing, if I'm not mistaken adaptations need to set and it should smooth out.

Good idea to change out old plugs and coils, they can cause timing corrections,

Charge pipe upgrade also recommended.

Your IAT's spiking, so that is likely causing timing corrections up top.

Run stage 1 or upgrade FMIC.

[Jorow99]

My car is a FBO 335i with VTT stage 2+ turbos. Currently getting it tuned by Twisted Tuning. Can someone take a look at these logs and help me figure out why my rpms are bouncing around? I have no codes for misfires but it kind of feels like it is, that or the torque converter is going out or something. Thank you!

https://datazap.me/u/jorow99/rpm-osc...?log=0&data=22
https://datazap.me/u/jorow99/rpm-osc...?log=0&data=18

[djt81185]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Was this straight after flashing, if I'm not mistaken adaptations need to set and it should smooth out.

Good idea to change out old plugs and coils, they can cause timing corrections,

Charge pipe upgrade also recommended.

Your IAT's spiking, so that is likely causing timing corrections up top.

Run stage 1 or upgrade FMIC.

Thanks and yes it was within an hour of flashing.

Intercooler and charge pipe already shipped and should be here shortly.

Do i need to do anything special to set adaptations or just drive it?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by djt81185

Thanks and yes it was within an hour of flashing.

Intercooler and charge pipe already shipped and should be here shortly.

Do i need to do anything special to set adaptations or just drive it?

Just drive it for a couple of days and take it for a few rips.

[studio54]

Out of curiosity, I wanted to test the V10 Stage 2+ 93 oct.

I usually only run 91oct but left in my tank, as an octane booster, I had a kind of homemade ~E30 (91oct mixed with 96% liquid bioethanol for fireplace that I bought at the DIY store) that I just used to pass my emission test. I looked online for the octane rating, E30 should equal to 94oct.

Ran my personal best recorded 100-200 (~8.6sec) in the 4th gear log, we were 2 people in the car and had secondaries welded back, usually I'm alone for my 100-200, but in the otherhand ambient temperature was cold, so it's a big help (3-5°C)

(And still exact same flat road)

3rd-4th gear log : https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...=0&data=3-5-22
(100-200 ~8.8sec)

only 4rd gear log : https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...=0&data=3-5-22
(100-200 ~8.6sec)

I had some timing corrections (more in the 3rd-4th), other values seems fine (?), but I have some lacks of understanding about "Timing Cyl Crk".

Concerning my blend, I don't recommend anyone doing this, I don't know exactly what are the 4% left in those bioethanol for fireplace bottles and if it's harmful, but it was one shot to reduce my CO at the tailpipe test.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by studio54

Out of curiosity, I wanted to test the V10 Stage 2+ 93 oct.

I usually only run 91oct but left in my tank, as an octane booster, I had a kind of homemade ~E30 (91oct mixed with 96% liquid bioethanol for fireplace that I bought at the DIY store) that I just used to pass my emission test. I looked online for the octane rating, E30 should equal to 94oct.

Ran my personal best recorded 100-200 (~8.6sec) in the 4th gear log, we were 2 people in the car and had secondaries welded back, usually I'm alone for my 100-200, but in the otherhand ambient temperature was cold, so it's a big help (3-5°C)

(And still exact same flat road)

3rd-4th gear log : https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...=0&data=3-5-22
(100-200 ~8.8sec)

only 4rd gear log : https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...=0&data=3-5-22
(100-200 ~8.6sec)

I had some timing corrections (more in the 3rd-4th), other values seems fine (?), but I have some lacks of understanding about "Timing Cyl Crk".

Concerning my blend, I don't recommend anyone doing this, I don't know exactly what are the 4% left in those bioethanol for fireplace bottles and if it's harmful, but it was one shot to reduce my CO at the tailpipe test.

Very impressive times mate,

That's actual cylinder timing which varies but upto 7.5 degrees is pretty good in my opinion.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Very impressive times mate,

That's actual cylinder timing which varies but upto 7.5 degrees is pretty good in my opinion.

Thanks Saif Very happy with those times

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by studio54

Thanks Saif Very happy with those times

[Silent9n54]

try shifting around 5000-5300rpm, so your boost stays around 17psi. You revved it out to 6500 and the boost tapers down to 13psi, you might get better times by shifting early.

Originally Posted by studio54

Out of curiosity, I wanted to test the V10 Stage 2+ 93 oct.

I usually only run 91oct but left in my tank, as an octane booster, I had a kind of homemade ~E30 (91oct mixed with 96% liquid bioethanol for fireplace that I bought at the DIY store) that I just used to pass my emission test. I looked online for the octane rating, E30 should equal to 94oct.

Ran my personal best recorded 100-200 (~8.6sec) in the 4th gear log, we were 2 people in the car and had secondaries welded back, usually I'm alone for my 100-200, but in the otherhand ambient temperature was cold, so it's a big help (3-5°C)

(And still exact same flat road)

3rd-4th gear log : https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...=0&data=3-5-22
(100-200 ~8.8sec)

only 4rd gear log : https://datazap.me/u/studio54/log-16...=0&data=3-5-22
(100-200 ~8.6sec)

I had some timing corrections (more in the 3rd-4th), other values seems fine (?), but I have some lacks of understanding about "Timing Cyl Crk".

Concerning my blend, I don't recommend anyone doing this, I don't know exactly what are the 4% left in those bioethanol for fireplace bottles and if it's harmful, but it was one shot to reduce my CO at the tailpipe test.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Silent11N54

try shifting around 5000-5300rpm, so your boost stays around 17psi. You revved it out to 6500 and the boost tapers down to 13psi, you might get better times by shifting early.

Ok thanks, I will try next time

I was a bit surprised to make a better time with just 4th but yeah makes sense, I am pushing it too high in the rpm where it tappers

[ab987]

Originally Posted by Silent11N54

try shifting around 5000-5300rpm, so your boost stays around 17psi. You revved it out to 6500 and the boost tapers down to 13psi, you might get better times by shifting early.

5000-5300 is a bit early, no? The gearing advantage would outweigh the engine torque differences there in any gear (meaning more overall torque) at least on V9. Obviously we have not seen a dyno sheet of V10 so it's hard to say there but it's probably not far off. General rule of thumb for upside down turbo motors (and turbo motors in general) is shift earlier in higher gears as they are closer together and gearing advantage decreases. Based on a v9 e50 dyno, optimal shift times for maximum acceleration on a 6mt are roughly as follows (and should be similar for most OTS tunes):

1-2: 6922rpm
2-3: 6601rpm
3-4: 5981rpm
4-5: 5732rpm
5-6: 5667rpm

And just for kicks and being a bored software engineer, I punched in 6AT ratios too, and here are ideal shift times for those:

1-2: 7068rpm
2-3: 6663rpm
3-4: 5991rpm
4-5: 5961rpm
5-6: 5841rpm

If you have your car's dyno chart and want me to punch in your torque figures, I can do that

[Atomicbear]

Please let me know what you think of my first V10.0 pull. Ambient temp was 2 degrees C (36F) and it PULLED HARD!!! Love the V10 map so far! wow! please critique my graph. Thanks! https://www.dropbox.com/s/7nu2eyy40e...noALP.csv?dl=0