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Doing brake fluid, what about clutch?
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02-04-2013, 07:30 AM | #1 |
Blah
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Doing brake fluid, what about clutch?
Iv seen a ton of DIY replacing the brake fluid, but what about the clutch? I couldn't find anything regarding the clutch. Has anyone ever done this before or have a DIY. What other steps do I have to do to get the fluid out of the lines?
On a side note, I am also going to bring out the go pro and record everything I do. I know it's pretty basic but I'm going to try to record everything I do. One more question... what's the poll for a slow DD? OEM brake fluid or ATE super blue dot 4 Brad |
02-04-2013, 09:01 AM | #3 |
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You need a computer to do the ABS cycling and you only need to do it if you get air in the system, which you shouldn't when replacing brake fluid. The ABS module vibrates to get any small air bubbles out. The clutch shares fluid from the brake fluid reservior. You can do it at the same time as your brakes. Do the brakes first.
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02-04-2013, 09:29 AM | #4 | |
Blah
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02-04-2013, 09:36 AM | #5 |
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I use a Motive Products Pressure Bleeder to do both brakes and clutch. Do the brakes first. You will have to remove the plastic panel under the transmission to do the clutch, but the slave cylinder and bleeder are right there. Very easy to get at, and at least on my '11 the bleeder is plastic so no worries about it being stuck. Though of course, that means taking extra care not to overtighten it.
ATE Super Blue is really meant for those who change thier brake fluid often, i.e. racers. You alternate it with the ATE Gold (same stuff sans the blue dye). Without the color contrast, hard to tell when the clean stuff is coming out when you just did it last week. Trouble is, it is NOT a low moisture absorbing fluid, and while its dry boiling point is excellent, its wet boiling point is not. It is also really expensive. Use the OEM fluid or something meant for street cars like Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic. I have seen some talk that the OEM fluid is a supposedly lower viscosity fluid than most, but the brakes on a 3-series are the same bits as a zillion other European cars, so I doubt it makes any real difference.
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02-04-2013, 09:50 AM | #6 | |
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Thank you for the explanation of the super blue. I'm deff gonna stick to the OEM stuff. Plus I called 3 different part stores in the GTA and no one even heard of the stuff lol Brad |
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02-04-2013, 10:02 AM | #7 | |
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That can is the clutch delay valve. If you care, this would be an ideal time to take that out, punch out the restrictor, and put it back. Actually, there are a couple of DIYs for that which probably show a picture of the slave cylinder too.
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'11 328! Touring - Tasman on Chestnut, 6spd manual, factory upside-down "i" option '11 128i Convertible - Space Gray on Savannah Beige, 6spd manual, also '14 Mercedes-Benz E350 wagon, '95 Land Rover Discovery, '74 Triumph Spitfire |
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02-04-2013, 10:17 AM | #8 | |
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Found a pic thanks for everything guys. I have a pit in my garage so this should be fairly pain free. Here's where the pic is http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256352 |
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02-04-2013, 10:18 AM | #9 | |
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By the way - I don't know where "GTA" is, and where is "Strathroy/Richmond Hill?" I'm guessing London? Or Ontario? Or maybe GA?
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02-04-2013, 11:51 AM | #11 | |
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Resist the urge lump Super Blue/Type 200 in with all the "race only" fluids out there. They are excellent fluids, street or track, and are made for long change intervals in street applications. |
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02-04-2013, 01:32 PM | #12 |
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02-23-2013, 08:14 AM | #14 |
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During my last brake fluid change, the BMW garage said that there was no need to change the clutch fluid even if they share the same fluid. They never explained why.
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02-23-2013, 10:27 AM | #15 | |
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Brake fluid lubricates and conditions the seals in the system. Bleeding out old fluid also removes contamination which can become abrasive (like worn piston seal material). Changing fluids well in excess of recommended intervals is key to long term vehicle ownership. |
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04-08-2013, 02:15 AM | #16 | |||
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Not trying to be a dick, but just trying to clear up some misinformation: Quote:
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ATE Blue/Gold is of the, if not cheapest, DOT 4 fluids out there. Also, its wet BP is > OEM, Castrol, or Valvoline. References: 1) Castrol GT LMA - Dry BP: 265*C, Wet BP: 155*C Price: $11 per 12 oz bottle (4/7/13 Ebay search - shipped) Price/oz: $0.92 http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...BrakeFluid.pdf 2) Valvoline - Dry BP: 230*C, Wet BP: 155*C Price: $11.55 per 12 oz bottle (shipped - Amazon - none listed on ebay) Price/oz: $0.96 http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/valvoline_brake_fluid.pdf http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-12...ne+brake+fluid 3) OEM BMW Fluid - Dry BP: 230*C, Wet BP: 155*C Price: $9 per 12 oz bottle (Ebay - shipped) Price/oz: $0.75 http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=424698 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300199 4) ATE Blue/Gold - Dry BP: 280*C, Wet BP: 198*C Price: $18.45 / 1 Liter (shipped - Ebay) Price/oz: $0.55 (1 L = 33.814 fluid oz) http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/...f_info_us.html http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...cat=BrakeFluid There's no reason why you can't run it on the street...I've been running it in all my street cars and bikes for years. ATE's suggested change interval is up to every 3 years ("normal driving"), which I believe is 1 year more than BMW's recommendation for their OEM fluid. Also, I understand that 1 L is more than typically necessary, but if you use it on multiple vehicles like I do, do the brakes and clutch hydro fluid at the same time, you don't really have that much leftover. My friends and I sometimes split a bottle. Granted, if you go to the stealership and buy the BMW fluid you may save on shipping (but then add tax!) etc... but for fairness' sake, I included shipping costs. Lastly, don't at me for bumping an old thread...I was using the search button and came upon this
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Last edited by Toda Party; 04-08-2013 at 02:27 AM.. |
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06-10-2013, 03:14 PM | #17 |
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what size wrench is needed for the bleeder screw on 2006 E90?
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