[Mutongoi]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

With replaced solenoids... VVT motor ?

Yes I replaced both solenoids. I haven't gotten any error related to VVT Motor but I can check that as well and revert. Car is going to the workshop next week. Will confirm.

Thank you.

[Three_thirty_I]

When cleaning or replacing the Vanos solenoids, consider that the Check Valves which filter the oil going to each of these solenoids can become clogged, especially if there is a chance that the engine may have early signs of sludge or just particularly dirty oil, or very high mileage. These are located on the side of the head just forward of the 1-3 exhaust manifold. Easiest access is through the wheel well with the forward wheel well liner removed - there is a proper DIY thread for that in this subsection. If it turns out that these Check Valves are dirty, they can be fairly easily cleaned, but they are also fairly cheap, so in some cases it makes sense to just replace them. They are one-way valves, so it is also important that they still function correctly as well as being free of blockage.

[Mutongoi]

Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I

When cleaning or replacing the Vanos solenoids, consider that the Check Valves which filter the oil going to each of these solenoids can become clogged, especially if there is a chance that the engine may have early signs of sludge or just particularly dirty oil, or very high mileage. These are located on the side of the head just forward of the 1-3 exhaust manifold. Easiest access is through the wheel well with the forward wheel well liner removed - there is a proper DIY thread for that in this subsection. If it turns out that these Check Valves are dirty, they can be fairly easily cleaned, but they are also fairly cheap, so in some cases it makes sense to just replace them. They are one-way valves, so it is also important that they still function correctly as well as being free of blockage.

I believe you're referring to the two metallic filters on the side accessed through the wheel well. Yes. Replaced those as well with new ones. Im beginning to think its the Cam bearing Ledge. Will also check those next week along with the VVT motor.

Much appreciated.

[r!der]

First, I want to say thank you for the DIY. This one was easy, and I'm sure it saved me a good amount of $.

Car would go into limp mode and threw the 2A87 fault code on my 2007 335i with 129,000 miles. (by the way, I didn't have time to mess with it, and ended up driving it like this for months) Limp mode would only come on when boosting higher, and would reset with each restart. I would just restart, and sometimes it would be good for a day or two, sometimes just a mile or two.

2A87 Outlet-Vanos variable cam control test, mechanics
Error will cause a warning light
Error is not currently present
Test conditions have been completed

I got so much out of this thread, that I wanted to add a couple things, in hopes that it helps someone.

Even after reading about the connector, I still managed to switch the inlet and outlet connectors. (bonehead, I know) This will throw both codes and the car will stutter when you initially start, and it will go immediately into limp mode. I actually drove it like this for a day, thinking the aftermarket solenoid was the culprit. Throwing both inlet and outlet fault codes should have tipped me off, but I did this before work and was rushing. (excuse lol)

The second thing I'd like to add. I searched for info on the aftermarket solenoids but could not find much. I took a chance and decided to try one I found on Amazon for $42, made by Auto Parts Prodigy.

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Variabl...noid+vanos+335

I know a lot of people prefer OEM, and I did too when I had lower miles, but with 130k on the clock, I'm willing to go aftermarket as long as it works. Now that I've tried it, I'm here to tell you guys that the aftermarket solenoid works as described.

All my codes are gone, and the car runs great again. =) !!!

[94boosted]

My car recently threw the following codes, going to clean and swap the vanos solenoids right away. People just use compressed air and carb cleaner on the solenoids it seems?

2A7C - Vanos, Einlass, Kalstart
3100 - boost-pressure control, deactivation

I take it the 2A7C code is interchangeable with the 2A87 code based on this? https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en...otential-Fixes

[zibercat]

I'm getting this code, the car idles rough,it stalled at a red light, once or twice, and my MPG's went down from 27-28 to 24-24.5.
I checked youtube and I found a pretty good video. However in order to remove the solenoids I need an external (female) torx socket (youtube vid shows a 10mm bolt)...
I asked the stealership (close to work), they have them for $175.00 each, Rockauto, $75.00each, amazon is selling them for around $40.00.... I notice a member using the amazon aftermarket solenoid and I may go that route, but first I need to get the external torx socket.....

[Mutongoi]

Hi Guys,

Just to update you on the progress of my persistent issues.

2A82 Inlet Vanos variable cam control test
3100 Boost pressure control, deactivation
2A89 Crank Shaft - Inlet camshaft correlation

As mentioned earlier in a previous post on this thread, I had already changed the vanos solenoids, cam position sensors and check valves, with brand new OEM ones. Oil change, filter change was also done. But errors still persisted with Limp mode all the time.

Last option that actually did the trick was the cam bearing ledge replacement. They were worn out due to the metal seals on the cam shaft. New seals are made of teflon so wont be a problem i'll face again. My baby is back...

If you have similar errors popping up, might be an option you would want to check.

[AndyW]

First, thx for this DIY...very helpful! Second, if you have an oil cooler and your hands are larger than a toddlers, get someone with small hands to help do the work! Got my wife to help reinstall the bolts to reduce my pain, scarring, and swearing. . Overall, another simple job made maddeningly frustrating by the sadists that design BMW engines...lol.

Interesting note: Bentley manual procedure says remove the fan...that would have definitely saved the back of my hands...

[Rustymage]

My car has just thrown the code 2A82.

The code wasn't present last week and it's just been in for a service so I'm not sure if the garage has caused the code to pop up or perhaps it was a quirk.

So after saving the diagnostic file, I've cleared the code and will test to see if it comes back.

Only then will I look into fixing

Anthony

[Rustymage]

Originally Posted by Rustymage

My car has just thrown the code 2A82.

The code wasn't present last week and it's just been in for a service so I'm not sure if the garage has caused the code to pop up or perhaps it was a quirk.

So after saving the diagnostic file, I've cleared the code and will test to see if it comes back.

Only then will I look into fixing

Anthony

So the code hasn't returned but the hesitation on pulling away or during slow moving is still present. I'm going to look into changing the check valves and cleaning off the solenoids.

Wish me luck!

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by Rustymage

So the code hasn't returned but the hesitation on pulling away or during slow moving is still present. I'm going to look into changing the check valves and cleaning off the solenoids.

Wish me luck!

Good luck !
(I've done solenoids, MAF, VVT motor, and the hesitation / rpm dip at take off & taking out of gear is as bad I was before. Check valves are next hence my hopes you'll see results. Never had any codes.)

[Rustymage]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

Good luck !
(I've done solenoids, MAF, VVT motor, and the hesitation / rpm dip at take off & taking out of gear is as bad I was before. Check valves are next hence my hopes you'll see results. Never had any codes.)

So I cleaned the solenoids with brake cleaner and dried with compressed air. The exhaust had a tiny bit of black crude in a localised area, small spots would be a good description. Installed back and no change in hesitation



I will assess the check valves before replacing, and will not replace the solenoids until I've test driven the new check valves. I can easily return the solenoids.

If you've done those other bits it makes it likely that I won't have need to replace those parts. Hopefully check valves are the solution.

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by Rustymage

well said (even if I'm now v. skeptical I'll ever get to end of this issue...)

[Rustymage]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

well said (even if I'm now v. skeptical I'll ever get to end of this issue...)

Have you seen this post?

Release date (dd/mm/yy)
30/09/09
Status
Approved
Organization
GB, CAR
Vehicles affected
E series
E60 E61 E63 E64 E90
E91 E92
Engine
N52 N52BO0 N52K
Body

Production period (from/to) (dd/mm/yy)
/
Comment on production period

Feedback (all cases relating to measure up to) (dd/mm/yy)

Complaint
An intermittent hesitation or flat spot when accelerating is felt briefly under different driving conditions
such as:
Pulling away from stationary
After a coasting phase
When overtaking

This complaint appears over a period of time and gets progressively worse.
Cause
Combination of adaptive values and an early I-Stage or sluggish VVT motor

No fault codes are recorded in the DME (or EGS)
Measure
After confirming the customer complaint and under which driving condition the problem is most obvious,
carry out the following work in the specific order:

Step 1
1. Program the vehicle with ISTA/P 2.35.1 or higher

2. Clear the DME adaptive values using the diagnosis service function.
3. Switch on the ignition and leave for at least 30 seconds to allow the DK unit adaptation to be carried
out - this can usually be heard.
4. Start the engine and allow to idle up to an engine temperature of at least 70°C with no consumers
switched on
5. With ISTA/D or the GT1 learn the VVT end stops
6. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes with the vehicle stationary, the transmission in Park and the
steering centred (NO consumers switched on).
7. Then with the engine at idle and the car stationary, select Drive, switch on the Air Conditioning and
then turn the steering to full left lock and then to full right lock twice in succession.
8. Now drive the vehicle forwards and backwards approximately 5 metres to permit transmission
adaptation.
9. Then with the car on a road test drive at a steady 50 - 65 km/h for at least 10 minutes using M2 or
M3; then accelerate moderately in 2nd or 3rd gear up to 4000 rpm and decelerate by letting the car roll
until reaching engine idle speed; then stop and let engine run at idle speed for 5 minutes, do this two or
three times
10. Check the DME statuses to ensure the additive and multiplicative values are OK.
11. Run the engine at idling speed for at least 5 minutes again

Now re-evaluate the car for the customer complaint, if the hesitation is no longer present no further
action is required.

If the hesitation is still present then carry out step 2

Step 2
Replace the VVT motor

Taken from: http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...ottle-t148266/

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by Rustymage

Have you seen this post?
[snip]
Step 2
Replace the VVT motor

Yes, that is where my very high hopes it was the VVT motor that is causing it - only to replace it and have the same symptoms.

[Rustymage]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

Yes, that is where my very high hopes it was the VVT motor that is causing it - only to replace it and have the same symptoms.

Another thought is that the air con compressor may be causing this? Unlikely but plausible?

Not really sure what I will do after the check valves, not sure I want to waste the solenoid money if it isn't going to work...then again I won't know if it works unless I try it

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by Rustymage

Another thought is that the air con compressor may be causing this?

You mean the a/c compressor ? given my main symptom - the dip in rpm upon taking off, or when coasting and taking it out of gear - is present w/ the a/c off as well as on I doubt. it. The presence of the a/c does make the dip more severe - in some cases it stalls the engine (try turning w/ no power steering) - but I attribute that to the higher load caused by the a/c.

[Rustymage]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

You mean the a/c compressor ? given my main symptom - the dip in rpm upon taking off, or when coasting and taking it out of gear - is present w/ the a/c off as well as on I doubt. it. The presence of the a/c does make the dip more severe - in some cases it stalls the engine (try turning w/ no power steering) - but I attribute that to the higher load caused by the a/c.

Yes and ok glad you've tried that

/thinking out loud

My next thought could be coils, however it would be strange to have all 6 go at once and only when accelerating from a slow speed. If only one went it would be more obvious and occur at different running ranges and sound lumpy, right?

I've only read about coils in association with lumpy idle and shaking, which I don't think you have.

/end of thinking

I should add that I only found the code after an oil change at a local garage, maybe the low pressure on first crank caused the code? If so changing solenoids and/or check valves will have no affect, and the problem of hesitation doesn't go away.

[Rustymage]

Just spoke with my local BMW specialist and they thought it could be an injector. He said the N52 engines were very reliable but injectors are known to fail somewhat. He said a misfire caused by a slight injector fault wouldn't necessarily be picked up by a bystander as a misfire due to it being a 6 cylinder. He really didn't know why a code wouldn't be thrown.

He suggested fuel system cleaner. He also said he'd want to perform a live diagnostic on the car when it was doing it to see if he could narrow the problem down to a cylinder. He suggested the vanos solenoid clean and check valve clean as something that might help.

Overall I got the impression that VVT, MAF, ECC sensor etc were very rare.

He doesn't have a slot to look at the car for 2 weeks so he said trial the fuel cleaner and if the issue gets better then it was most likely an injector. Otherwise they'd want to inspect plugs and coils, replacing only the damaged ones. My plugs were done 20k miles ago I think. Might be worth a swap...

PS- he said supermarket fuel (in the UK) is poor and could cause an issue.

[Rustymage]

Originally Posted by DaanBMW

Good luck !
(I've done solenoids, MAF, VVT motor, and the hesitation / rpm dip at take off & taking out of gear is as bad I was before. Check valves are next hence my hopes you'll see results. Never had any codes.)

Have you tried spark plugs?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=993822

[DaanBMW]

Originally Posted by Rustymage

Just spoke with my local BMW specialist and they thought it could be an injector. [snip] He suggested fuel system cleaner. [snip] PS- he said supermarket fuel (in the UK) is poor and could cause an issue.

Check this out - this is the first ray of light on this issue after my much-anticipated VVT motor replacement that didn't solve zilch (and we kind hijacked this thread so we should continue there): http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...2&goto=newpost

Originally Posted by Rustymage

Have you tried spark plugs?

I have new ones put in at 100k mi (car now has ~112k). The original ones were really in good shape after 100k which made me quite impressed with the N52 engine.

[nextNME]

Getting a code: P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-retarded..... Would this be due to the solenoid issues described in this thread?

This P0015 code has been popping quite frequently, but I can't seem to find a style of driving that always prompts it... 1) WOT does NOT always cause it, 2) sometimes driving on the highway in D with cruise control on and going up a slight hill will prompt it, or 2) random driving around town, accelerating from a green light...

New mods are only the Dual Cone Intake. I've had the JB+ for about 4months with no issues until this week...

2008 535xi