[Technic]

Originally Posted by Borsig

Im still confused.

I will have the L7 in my pre owned.

Is this a pass through wiring on the subs that goes to another speaker?

Why cant you just use a high level input amp to drive the after market subs and be done with it?

This Blaupunkt amp is a high level input amp, that's the whole point of getting those connectors.

[Borsig]

so basically what you guys are saying is -

high level imput amp - in line between the HU and the new woofers?

maybe Im reading way too much into this lol.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Borsig

so basically what you guys are saying is -

high level imput amp - in line between the HU and the new woofers?

maybe Im reading way too much into this lol.

Congrats on an awesome ride! What you have to do is to cut the existing speaker wires between the L7 amp and the woofers, then feed the output of the L7 amp into the BP amp and then the output of the BP to the woofers. So yeah, you're kind of putting the BP amp in line, but you are tapping the signal AFTER the L7 amp, since the signal before the amp is optical and can't be processed by any aftermarket amps.

[Borsig]

ok I understand.

So to ask a further question-

What if i wanted a bigger / better L7 amp? Any aftermarket options for that?

Since the input is optical?

Im guessing there arent many options there... I was looking at the BW Audio stage 1 set, but to drive those to my liking Im thinking I will want another amp.


Also - is the blau our only choice? Im an alpine kind of guy.

[pdjafari]

OK so I finished the install today and everything works. The bass is not very impressive, sounds almost stock so I havent yet fine tuned the amp.

I am wondering if perhaps the gain is set too low. Low pass filter was off by default so I dont know if its changed...

Any ideas of where things should be set for my setup??

335 coupe L7 system
2 SWS 8s in 2 ohms
Blaupunkt THA 275

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by pdjafari

OK so I finished the install today and everything works. The bass is not very impressive, sounds almost stock so I havent yet fine tuned the amp.

I am wondering if perhaps the gain is set too low. Low pass filter was off by default so I dont know if its changed...

Any ideas of where things should be set for my setup??

335 coupe L7 system
2 SWS 8s in 2 ohms
Blaupunkt THA 275

You have to match the input sensitivity of the amp (gain) with the signal strength of the input from the L7 amp. By default, the amp gain is probably set to the minimum value. Just crank the gain up until the bass blends in nicely with the rest of the system. Stay away from "bass boost" as this just adds distortion.

I wouldn't mess with the low pass filter, otherwise you will cut off some of the mid bass frequencies.

[kaigoss69]

Also, I would set the head unit equalizer to flat in the bass region for initial tuning. You can fine tune later, once the gain is properly set. Adding "thump" should always be done through amplification and not through boost of the input signal.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Also, I would set the head unit equalizer to flat in the bass region for initial tuning. You can fine tune later, once the gain is properly set. Adding "thump" should always be done through amplification and not through boost of the input signal.

Unfortunately, both the Logic7 and the Individual Audio require also adjustments with the EQ to sound good. So to really notice the difference of the SWS-8 with the new amp both the amp gain and the OEM EQ bass frequencies (100 and 200Hz) have to be tweaked some to get them "thumping".

These systems have some EQ done to the signal even with the EQ adjustment feature all flat.

The "Bass Boost" feature of some aftermarket amps can be used instead of any OEM EQ bass adjustment as the "Bass Boost" feature is a parametric EQ itself. The distortion that you mention about this "Bass Boost" feature comes when bass is also boosted with OEM controls in combination with any increase of bass with the "Bass Boost", so the bass becomes saturated and distorted because the bass signal is being boosted twice over the acceptable limit of the driver. So this is more of "an either or" adjustment, the OEM EQ or the "Bass Boost".

I replaced my OEM woofers (7 ohms) with the SWS-8 (4 ohms) and tested them with the Individual Audio OEM amp and they sounded so much better than the OEM's that the OEM amp went into protection; the EQ was set to the same boost at the 100 and 200Hz bands before and after the swap.

So more power is just not enough with these swaps...

[Borsig]

Does anyone knwo of an amp that is a direct replacement for the OEM L7 amp? Does it have some sort of special processing that is needed for the l7 system?

[pdjafari]

Does the oem l7 amp even have a gain setting??! I didn't really look at it so I don't really recall a knob or switch. Also I don't recall my blaupunkt 275 having a bass boost knob or switch??

[pdjafari]

And OMG those screws that hold down the sub grilles are ridiculous.....

[Technic]

Originally Posted by pdjafari

Does the oem l7 amp even have a gain setting??! I didn't really look at it so I don't really recall a knob or switch. Also I don't recall my blaupunkt 275 having a bass boost knob or switch??

No... you need to adjust the THA275 gain settings and the OEM EQ.

The "Bass boost" comment was in general, it does not necessarily applies to your amp.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by Borsig

Does anyone knwo of an amp that is a direct replacement for the OEM L7 amp? Does it have some sort of special processing that is needed for the l7 system?

None so far.

[pdjafari]

technic please help, i noticed when I turn up the volume both SWS8s begin to make a popping noise like the amp is clipping.

I removed the seats, housings and thought perhaps I dont have enough clearance. Nope, removed the speakers from the housing all together but STILL they were popping (only with the volume up.). I noticed both speakers would do this off/on. Then I noticed the red LED labeled PRT was ON. So doing more investigation I noticed there was a threshold at which the speakers start to pop and the PRT LED going off/on. I could turn it up JUST enough to get the speakers to pop and the PRT LED would flash very slowly on/off. Then if I turned it up a bit more it would remain on fully lit.

What could the problem be?!?!? I then thought, maybe I blew the speakers somehow?? It sounds as if alot of distortion is being passed through, not sure exactly what it could be. The popping is coming from the top of the cone labeled SwS.

I experienced this once 12 years ago installing my first system because I had a bridged setup, but I am currently NOT bridged or else the PnP connector would not suffice...so I am dumb struck trying to figure this out!!

[pdjafari]

I just read this thread

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=24

And I wonder if its because the ground for the amp is a shared ground??? I used the grounding point on the rear drivers fender where all the wires which travel to the amp are grounded....perhaps thats the problem??

[pdjafari]

I am starting to think the level knob (gain) may be set to max by default, I thought all teh way to the left was minimum but looking at the pictures on the box of the amp it looks like 8v-.3V....

So Let me try setting it in the middle

Moved gain all teh way down to 8V and although the volume can be turned on alot louder without the popping, the speakers are still popping at higher volumes. Manual specifies the PRT (Protection) light is engaged turned on (RED LED), the output stage is electronically switched off due to an error...

Perhaps adjusting gain on teh L7??

[kaigoss69]

When the speakers are popping, is the cone moving considerably up and down at that point? In other words, is the popping noise related to excessive excursion, beyond the speakers mechanical limits? I am asking because my first guess would be that you do have an air leak between the top and the bottom of the speaker baffle, allowing the sound waves to cancel each other out and thus not producing any considerable output. Kind of like the woofers are not installed in an enclosure at all. If this was the case, then you would not hear very much bass and you would naturally turn the gain and the HU volume up so that you would send distortion to the speakers and cause the amp to overheat, which may trigger the red LED to come on.

Have any install pics? How did you seal the woofers in there? Did you seal that "hole" next to the mounting ring that is left after installation of the SWS?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by pdjafari

I am starting to think the level knob (gain) may be set to max by default, I thought all teh way to the left was minimum but looking at the pictures on the box of the amp it looks like 8v-.3V....

So Let me try setting it in the middle

Moved gain all teh way down to 8V and although the volume can be turned on alot louder without the popping, the speakers are still popping at higher volumes. Manual specifies the PRT (Protection) light is engaged turned on (RED LED), the output stage is electronically switched off due to an error...

Perhaps adjusting gain on teh L7??

Set both the OEM bass adjustment and the EQ 100Hz and 200Hz bands to 0 dB. With the THA amp gain set to minimum (8V), raise the volume while playing a 50Hz first and a 100Hz tone second. You should be able to detect if the SWS-8 are OK if there is no distortion or pops at a volume higher than 50% with either of those frequencies. If they are still popping then somehow they got blown; I doubt it though, I think that you have the bass adjustment too high in addition to the EQ bass bands over 0 dB.

If there are no pops then leave the bass adjustment at 0dB and tweak only the EQ 100Hz and 200Hz bands until you are satisfied with the "thump".

That should work.

[pdjafari]

I dont even have the subs in an enclosure and they pop with certain volumes. I thought perhaps they were bottoming out or hitting the grilles, but then i removed the grilles and still POPping. So then I removed them from their enclosures so they still pop...

[pdjafari]

Originally Posted by Technic

Set both the OEM bass adjustment and the EQ 100Hz and 200Hz bands to 0 dB. With the THA amp gain set to minimum (8V), raise the volume while playing a 50Hz first and a 100Hz tone second. You should be able to detect if the SWS-8 are OK if there is no distortion or pops at a volume higher than 50% with either of those frequencies. If they are still popping then somehow they got blown; I doubt it though, I think that you have the bass adjustment too high in addition to the EQ bass bands over 0 dB.

If there are no pops then leave the bass adjustment at 0dB and tweak only the EQ 100Hz and 200Hz bands until you are satisfied with the "thump".

That should work.

OK so I set the bass down to 0 ( I--------x--------I) x signifies the 0 db setting. I also adjusted the eq frequencies to 0 for 200 and 80, I didnt have a 100 Hz setting?? I then set the gain down all the way.

I put on a 50hz and 100hz tone to a significant level and the speaker began to pop. Bear in mind the volume was pretty loud but I still dont think it should be popping. I also noticed that anytime the speakers would pop that the amps Protection LED (red) would come on and off. On some tracks it would stay on the entire time and no bass would be coming from the SWS.

So is it the Blaupunkt amp not able to sufficiently supply bass to the SWS8s or because the SWS8s came blown from the vendor???

Please help!!

[pdjafari]

One other interesting note, at almost any volume when I adjust the BALANCE L or R the sub which gets teh signal simply pops, no bass....weird

[pdjafari]

I just read this review on crutchfield about this amp, not so great...

1 out of 5
1 out of 5
no good
Written By mike, nor cal on Friday, January 25, 2008

the only good thing about this amp is the small size. once you turn it up past about 1/2 volume it starts to shut down sounds like a cd skip.