[kazbek1]

I was under my car yesterday and saw one of my oil lines rubbing against that protruding part at the front, lower area of the engine. Looks like a clip fits into that spot.

Am I correct in assuming a clip fits in there? Anyone know the name or part number? For now, I ziptied the lines away from that protruding edge to prevent anymore wear on the line.

[E93Dude]

I would search on realoem.com with your car's exact model, year, etc. The schematics should identify whether or not there is a clip there, and what the p/n is. Also, if you using zip ties on the oil lines be careful - am not sure how the plastic will hold up to extended 200F temperatures. Of course, if you are using metal version, no issue.

[Dave92N54]

These are transmission lines are they not? They follow along the oil pan? Is the car an auto?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

These are transmission lines are they not? They follow along the oil pan? Is the car an auto?

Yes, that's what they are. Hot & cold return line

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

These are transmission lines are they not? They follow along the oil pan? Is the car an auto?

Ah, I guess they are. They looked like oil lines but hey, what do I know. Thanks for the clarification. That'll be helpful to know. And yes, it's an auto.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by E93Dude

I would search on realoem.com with your car's exact model, year, etc. The schematics should identify whether or not there is a clip there, and what the p/n is. Also, if you using zip ties on the oil lines be careful - am not sure how the plastic will hold up to extended 200F temperatures. Of course, if you are using metal version, no issue.

Thanks, that's a good idea. And yea, I was questioning whether or not I should use the plastic ties. Hopefully they hold up for the short time it should take to come up with a permanent solution.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Yes, that's what they are. Hot & cold return line

Thanks for confirming this!

[streetpro]

They will start to leak at the rubber end anyway, try to replace O-rings that are in the heat-exchanger while you are there... or get rid of it completely... but it is more complex, there is threat here on forum how to do it...

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by streetpro

They will start to leak at the rubber end anyway, try to replace O-rings that are in the heat-exchanger while you are there... or get rid of it completely... but it is more complex, there is threat here on forum how to do it...

Hmmm I'm not sure I follow. Are you saying that the transmission line will begin to leak from the rubber end and I should replace the entire line? Or just the o-rings? And I can get rid of the lines all together?

[streetpro]

Well, it is a bit complex question... the automatic transmission cooling system works well but once you push the car hard, it doesn't do any good... it uses the engine cooler heat capacity to transfer the heat out of the AT oil... and it does so after reaching like 205 deg if iirc... in other words the system is closed and lets the cooling water from engine cooler into the AT heat exchanger once the AT oil is hot... that means that the heat goes into the engine cooler...
now imagine this on the summer day when you are dumping a lot of heat into the water system already... it just makes it worse... that is why it makes sense to relocate/change to air-oil cooler to the driver side wheel arch of the car and run external T-stat + fan + T-stat switch to operate it...

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by streetpro

Well, it is a bit complex question... the automatic transmission cooling system works well but once you push the car hard, it doesn't do any good... it uses the engine cooler heat capacity to transfer the heat out of the AT oil... and it does so after reaching like 205 deg if iirc... in other words the system is closed and lets the cooling water from engine cooler into the AT heat exchanger once the AT oil is hot... that means that the heat goes into the engine cooler...
now imagine this on the summer day when you are dumping a lot of heat into the water system already... it just makes it worse... that is why it makes sense to relocate/change to air-oil cooler to the driver side wheel arch of the car and run external T-stat + fan + T-stat switch to operate it...

Sheesh, that does sound complicated. I'll look into that though. Thanks for the input! Never even considered all that.

[streetpro]

Yeah, it is complex task and to do it right you might end up replacing the lower water pipe (long plastic above subframe - connects expansion tank, water pump, AT heat exchanger and goes up to heater-exchanger in the car) and the engine water cooler from MT car - to get rid of those 2 unnecessary stubs/openings after unplugging - exchanger delete mod.
Or use the plugs and keep fingers crossed (I had this but as there is no space, it keeps you wondering how it will work in the long run - vibrating/wobbling around, how long these already old rubber hoses may stand this).

Other solution is to replace those 2 steel/rubber hoses/lines as preventive measure. But they aren't cheap and hard to reach - need to drop the subframe.