[c0ris07]

So I fitted it today and the coil pack harness doesn't fit in the tray nicely as the conduit is slightly too large. I might remove that section and heat shrink it.

Also as it sits up so high the cables are slightly tighter. Haven't put the engine cover back on yet so don't know if it will affect it at all.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

So I fitted it today and the coil pack harness doesn't fit in the tray nicely as the conduit is slightly too large. I might remove that section and heat shrink it.

Also as it sits up so high the cables are slightly tighter. Haven't put the engine cover back on yet so don't know if it will affect it at all.

Any update on this?

[c0ris07]

I ended up cutting the cable conduit lengthways, rolling it tighter and electrical taping it just for the section in the cable duct. Its tight but it fits!

[LMB335IS]

Looks good! Those parts are going be hard to come by in the US. No one seems to list them here, only oversea parts houses.

[BB_cuda]

I ordered the cable tray parts from Schmiedmann as well on 10/22. Customer service guy said it would take 7 business days to come to them in then however long to ship from Denmark to Texas. Parts and shipping are as follows:

electrical cable holders Schmiedmann
12-52-7-838-732 cover $20.78
12-52-7-838-733 lower tray $20.78
paypal fee $2.96
shipping $24.2
Totaling $68.72 USD

I hunted through the M3 cowl part listing and learned that (7) of the 07-14-7-146-539 are specified to hold down the cowl to the car. I used the (6) screws that hold the E90 standard cowl and they fit just fine. I dug up a spare BMW screw related to the lower engine cover that I had replaced (long story). To be consistent, I'm getting (3) more of the E90 cowl screws to hold the cable tray on. If you are the anal type, use the 07-14-7-146-539 and you should get (10).

I'll explain the 10. 3 to hold each upper cover on (so that's 3*2=6), 1 to hold the 2 lower housings together, and 3 more to bolt the cable tray onto cowl. I have ordered the other needed (4) from local dealer and will pull out the one makeshift screw so that they all match. I had looked into ordering them online but the shipping cost was silly at ~$10 so I went with higher screw cost at dealer but no shipping costs.

[BB_cuda]

c0ris07, I have a question about the tabs for attaching the lower cable tray. did you do any cutting so that the tray can be attached? See picture please.

[autoart]

What kind of intake is that?

[c0ris07]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

c0ris07, I have a question about the tabs for attaching the lower cable tray. did you do any cutting so that the tray can be attached? See picture please.

If you look at your cowl it is already cut at those locations. I beleive it is a snap off tab as it came off extremely easily. Once the pinch weld hood seal is on it is sealed again.

[c0ris07]

Originally Posted by autoart

What kind of intake is that?

Is an Afe closed intake

[Murph335]

This is a ton of work. I noticed the cowl article was from 2009 pre bms filters.

For ~$200 you could pick up a diff brace, or spacers, or other mods!

toss in the bms cowl filers for $40 or so. Then you can access everything Easily, including dme, rear engine cover screw and hear the spool better too!

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

If you look at your cowl it is already cut at those locations. I beleive it is a snap off tab as it came off extremely easily. Once the pinch weld hood seal is on it is sealed again.

Yes, I had seen the vertical slots but wanted to make sure you removed the tabs. The picture sure looked this way.

Sounds like you grabbed the tab with a pair of pliars and snapped them off. I was planning to use a dremel rotary cutter unless they snap off easily. Based on what you say above, it is simple. Two more days and my cable tray parts arrive.

[Bimmer 808]

Not a lot of trouble if you are going for a stock look.

[c0ris07]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Yes, I had seen the vertical slots but wanted to make sure you removed the tabs. The picture sure looked this way.

Sounds like you grabbed the tab with a pair of pliars and snapped them off. I was planning to use a dremel rotary cutter unless they snap off easily. Based on what you say above, it is simple. Two more days and my cable tray parts arrive.

They snap with very little effort. No need for dremel.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

They snap with very little effort. No need for dremel.

and you remove the engine cover without removing this m3 cowl? for example if you need to remove the engine cover to access the injectors, spark plugs and coils. that would be the only reason for me to do this swap. if removing the cowl is still a must the screw it, not for me.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by feuer

and you remove the engine cover without removing this m3 cowl? for example if you need to remove the engine cover to access the injectors, spark plugs and coils. that would be the only reason for me to do this swap. if removing the cowl is still a must the screw it, not for me.

Yes you can. I have the M3 cowl setup and I can access the plugs, coils, and injectors. I have the M3 strut brace as well and I remove the brace arm to make it easier to get the back plug. I also leave out the back engine cover allen screw. The other three are plenty to hold it in place.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

Yes you can. I have the M3 cowl setup and I can access the plugs, coils, and injectors. I have the M3 strut brace as well and I remove the brace arm to make it easier to get the back plug. I also leave out the back engine cover allen screw. The other three are plenty to hold it in place.

Wow, I think it's worth it for this alone - was not aware you could remove the engine cover without having to remove the m3 cowl!!! Great tip about the rear Allen screw. Coincidentally, The bracket that My rear-most Allen screw goes into got lost. I'm gonna do this.

[Jklad]

How are you liking your turbo smart dVs? I think my forge dVs are causing issues and am thinking of trying These out. How much boost are you running?

[Bimmer 808]

Originally Posted by Jklad

How are you liking your turbo smart dVs? I think my forge dVs are causing issues and am thinking of trying These out. How much boost are you running?

I'm loving these valves. Build quality is superb. Super stealthy and feels more responsive than stock. I switch between Cobb stage 2+ aggressive (14.5psi peak tapering down to 11.5psi by redline +/- 1.5psi) and the E30 map.

[FrankiE90jl]

Originally Posted by c0ris07

If you look at your cowl it is already cut at those locations. I beleive it is a snap off tab as it came off extremely easily. Once the pinch weld hood seal is on it is sealed again.

What screws do you use to this cable duct?