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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY: Sticking Steering Column Lock Fix
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08-29-2017, 07:01 AM | #136 |
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So I've developed this same issue with my e91 '06, my quote from the stealership was GBP 972. They say that only replacing the steering column will fix the problem. I'm going to take in to an indy and see if they can update the cars software and solve the issue that way otherwise they'll be doing the column too. I'm disgusted that BMW wouldn't offer any goodwill toward the repair, especially as this is a fault with their component!
I was interested to read this walk through but without the pictures it makes it difficult. I found yakev724's photobucket page and the images show up in it, but unfortunately you can't see all of them full size. Here's the link, even as thumbnails they should help you get the gist. http://s293.photobucket.com/user/yak...?sort=3&page=1 |
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09-24-2017, 05:03 PM | #137 |
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Visa har det bra☺️ Har samma problem, men kan inte få låstet att släppa så vet inte vad jag ska göra, |
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02-08-2018, 11:44 AM | #138 | |
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Hello my friends, my name is Mihai. I'm from Romania and I own a BMW E90 from 2006. I'm using it from 6years now. One night this summer my dear 👿 devil lock the steering wheel and a had to tow it at home. Just getting it down my crazy car starts without any errors stored in ecu. After Christmas happened one more time but this time a had to let it rest for three days. One error was stored: A0BD output wake-up line for pt can. After three days it was possible to use it til the end of January. From then was practically impossible to start it. After reading this post, thank you for the good and precise instructions, I've fallow all the instructions, clean the lock and did a visual inspection of it. Everything was like new. Then I have read the post of sorin_nsk and indeed was the door handle. I have keyless entry. After disconnect the Handel the car started without problems. I've done some more testing inserting the cable in the handle/no start locking steering pictogram, disconnect the cable start like new. In conclusion thanks to all for helping me. Good luck to all! |
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09-12-2018, 12:24 PM | #139 |
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Hi, I'm following these steps and have got to: Step 11 - Jack up front left wheel and turn wheel approximately 5 degrees
How would I go about getting to the pinch bolt if the steering is locked? |
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09-14-2018, 10:06 AM | #140 |
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Success!!
As a follow up to my above post...
I was getting the amber warning light, car not starting. Just before it happened I was waiting in my car for approx 1 hour, may have a left a light on and drained the battery. When I went to start I got the ding and couldn't get it started. After attempting a jump start I tried to reset the software using an OBD cable, resetting the csv & elv setting, no joy. I then replaced the battery, according the the shop I had the original from 12 years ago! Replaced it but still got the warning and couldn't start. I'm no mechanic but was refusing to part with the 'serious cash' my mechanic said it may cost to lift it and fix it, so tried the DIY. I ordered a set of Torx sockets and the 5 corner torx tamper proof bits from Amazon, both for £15. As someone else recommended I didn't remove the steering wheel, the cover in behind can be removed with a small flat head. I couldn't move the wheel to get at the pinch bolt as the wheel was locked. However, I could move the wheel the smallest amount, then used the seat belt to tie it in position, which enabled me to get at it from the engine bay. It was really tight but I just had enough space to get the wrench in. Rest was straight forward. I removed the locking mechanism, which looked in good nick, and just reset the position to open and put it all back together. Car started first time! Only time I needed an extra pair of hand was to bolt the column back on and realign with pinch bolt in the engine bay. Once I figured out what I was doing and had the right tools it took around 2 hours to complete. Thanks yakev724 for the original post , images seem to be working fine for me and I would have been lost without them. Fingers cross she holds up! |
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06-30-2019, 10:52 AM | #141 |
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my ELV was actually toast. my solution required an ELV emulator
Step 1 - Tools Used Step 2 - Set up good lighting to the steering column area Step 7 - Remove lower steering column shroud Step 8 - Unscrew the lower kick panel Step 9 - Remove the lower kick panel Step 10 - Remove the rubber steering column shaft boot I actually couldn't remove it so i just undid it from the bulkhead and moved it up the shaft Step 12 - Remove pinch bolt Step 13 - Remove clock spring connectors Step 14 - Remove steering column bolts Step 15 - Remove steering column lock connector Step 16 - Remove 2 wire harness clips along column Step 17 - Remove steering column Step 18 - Remove 3 "Torx Plus Security" Bolts I used the 5 point security bits Step 19 - Remove plastic cover and mechanism New Steps new step 1 - drill a hole on the opposite side of the housing to punch the pin out. there is a hole on one side to install the pin and you will see it clearly. on the opposite side of the housing there is no hole. drill there to punch it out. the pin is what allows the lock to pivot. one red circle is the pin and the second red circle is the approximate location to drill new step 2 - plug ELV emulator into the ELV connector installation is reversal of removal Last edited by rathersmart; 06-30-2019 at 10:58 AM.. |
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11-11-2019, 08:04 AM | #142 |
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My 2012 E93 broke its ELV some weeks ago, in an opened position. I think the E90 models changed though over the years, it's still called E9x but these models got the dreaded ELV in the steering column designed back in, with the same issues as the older that was referenced in the start of this thread.
So, it's currently at the BMW dealer who says its out of warranty, and their "fix" is to replace the whole steering column (as before...) and they want more than $2000 for this. Aside from the obvious annoyance that BMW keeps doing these shitty designs with the expensive fixes, does anyone know in what way these newer E90 models are different from the one in the OP in this thread? I'm considering getting one of those 4-pin ELV emulators just to get it working so I can drive it from the BMW dealer to an indie who could just swap the steering column to a used one or actually fix the lock. I'm also trying to get BMW to handle it out of goodwill as this issue seems like a super-common thing and is simply based on low quality / bad design from their part, but I don't have any high hopes. |
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11-19-2019, 12:04 PM | #143 |
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I have a 2007 bmw 328xi, Ive had the red steering wheel lock for awhile now, Im having my CAS be reprogrammed to act as if its a 2009, and then I am going to replace the steering column with a used one also from 2009 without the steering wheel lock mechanism. Would this work?
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11-19-2019, 12:05 PM | #144 | |
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11-22-2019, 04:28 PM | #145 | |
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Anyway, they also want an exorbitant amount of money for the steering column part, around $2100 (even without labour), which is crazy in itself as the OEM part costs $600 or so and the job of switching it is like 1 hour max. I think BMW does this to scam the insurance companies as normally the end customer won't pay for it. I too found the columns used in good condition (from cars the same milage as mine) for around $300, including the ELV, so one option for me is to just get a used one as you suggest and let an indie swap it out. But yes I heard the CAS on the pre-2009 E90's is part of the problem so in your case, you might just end up in the same situation again if you do it I guess. Swap it and then sell the car |
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09-25-2020, 07:02 PM | #146 |
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Thank you so much, I was installing my a msport wheel the other day and used an impact to zip out the 16mm holding the wheel. It wasn't until I was done installing the wheel that I got the ELV warning. It was a lot of fun to remove the module . The silicon grease I used was super lube, you can get it from Ace Hardware or Harbor Freight. I was unable to move my steering wheel at all, but if you have the steering wheel at top dead center you can get away with a short 8mm wrench. For the Torx Plus Security bits I just used a flat head screw driver from my I fit it kit, the bolts arent torques down very much so it was easy to take out. Also make sure not to turn the wheel when you have the steering column removed, otherwise you risk ripping the clock spring cable which I did.
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If all else fails pull the handbrake.
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12-11-2021, 11:33 AM | #147 |
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Some tips for anyone attempting this difficult DIY. Big thanks to the creator for this otherwise I would be 1.5k down at the BMW dealership.
The pinch bolt was on so incredibly tight there was no way I could access it via the inside of the driver's footwell as mentioned in the steps. I removed the pollen filter and scuttle panel and went in via the engine bay (the bolt is located on the drivers side just to the left of the engine cover as you look at it. This is much easier, especially if your wheels are locked straight and won't turn when jacked up. I used a 1/2 inch drive socket with a long extension and E10 socket. The bolt is just about visible on the 6 cylinder E9x. With the locking mechanism, I removed it entirely. For the stress of getting the column out, to me its not worth cleaning and regreasing as I really don't want to be removing this ever again if it decides to fail once more. I drilled out the locking mechanism as someone else said above, you need to drill a small hole above where the mechanism pin sits and then tap it out with a screwdriver and hammer, I just removed the whole mechanism and didn't bother putting the cover back on as there weren't any electrics/mechanism left! I bought an emulator online (just type BMW ELV emulator into google and take your pick) and plugged it into the steering column ELV connector that was previously attached to the column. When you put the column back in, align it properly and have a friend help guide it in by looking at the engine bay side, you can reach into the engine bay (its tight) and adjust the female end. There is one thick spine and it only goes in one way so take your time and be patient. The thick spine should be just left (as you look at the engine bay) of center so make sure the thick end of the spindle is slightly off center to match. You really need 2 people for this bit. The spindle doesn't go all the way into the female end but has a semi circular cut out where the pinch bolt sits, once aligned you can screw the bolt back in - I used some PTFE tape to stop the bolt from falling out of my socket and being lost in the engine bay. I did the job in December in the freezing cold and it was tough but I had no choice as the car wouldn't start due to the lock and I refused to spend 1.5k or pay a mechanic to fix this stupid problem. Hopefully the description helps someone attempting this. Give yourself a day to be safe. It's no fun lying on your back in the driver's footwell in the freezing cold with poor visibility. Get a good light to help you. Thanks BMW for allowing the lock to fail closed as opposed to open rendering the car inoperable. Last edited by usi227; 12-11-2021 at 11:39 AM.. |
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