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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > ZF6HP21 transmission valve body rebuild DIY



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      06-04-2017, 02:06 PM   #23
Modmike
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I figured it out. Most of the springs are identifiable from the diagram. The only problem is with the 3 heaviest springs. 2 of the 3 are the same and wasn't sure were the odd sized one went until I realized it it was fatter and could only fit one place.

By the way, can you answer this post?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1391044
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      06-06-2017, 08:50 PM   #24
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Just finished reinstalling everything and would like to add the folliowing:

1) Step 17 specifies 6NM when it should be 8NM for the bolts mounting the mechatronic to the transmission. This come straight from the OEM solenoid kit instructions

2) The Sonnax kit rear solenoid plugs go in with the screw hole facing out to allow for future removal.

3) The above end plugs fit so tight that they need to be tapped into place. This will likely shave the o-rings slightly. According to Sonnax, this is normal. Be sure to remove any material that is shaved off.

4) Other end plugs fit tightly, this is normal.

Have fun!
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      06-07-2017, 05:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modmike View Post
Just finished reinstalling everything and would like to add the folliowing:

1) Step 17 specifies 6NM when it should be 8NM for the bolts mounting the mechatronic to the transmission. This come straight from the OEM solenoid kit instructions

2) The Sonnax kit rear solenoid plugs go in with the screw hole facing out to allow for future removal.

3) The above end plugs fit so tight that they need to be tapped into place. This will likely shave the o-rings slightly. According to Sonnax, this is normal. Be sure to remove any material that is shaved off.

4) Other end plugs fit tightly, this is normal.

Have fun!
Thank you. I updated the torque value on step 17.

How does the car shift?
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      06-07-2017, 09:37 PM   #26
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Wish I knew. Got it all done and stripped the fill plug. Seriously screwed now.
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      06-08-2017, 08:25 AM   #27
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Wish I knew. Got it all done and stripped the fill plug. Seriously screwed now.
No. You need a tap. You can use the plug as a guide to figure out the tap size with assistance from the parts store.
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      06-08-2017, 10:31 PM   #28
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I have just about every screw extractor available but no dice. Got the Drexel out, slotted it, then used a screwdriver in slot to rotate it.

Had to temporarily reuse it until I get a new one. Anyone know the part #?
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      06-08-2017, 10:37 PM   #29
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So finished the valve body rebuild, filled it up and went for a drive.

Shifted super slow since I reset adaptations but started shifting much better the more I drove. Seems like I have more power as crazy as that sounds. I was even able to easily peel out, something I couldn't do before.

Fixed all my issues such as hard shifting, problems upshifting and finally a weird power pulse in low gear (almost a bucking).

It has been leaking a few drops for anout a year so could be low fluid but I doubt it. Old fluid was like dark honey and had no trace of a burnt smell or particles.

Weird thing is it only seemed to take about 7.5 litres even though I tried to fill it 3 separate times after running through the gears.

All in all amazing difference on a 9 year old car.
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      06-09-2017, 05:10 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modmike View Post
I have just about every screw extractor available but no dice. Got the Drexel out, slotted it, then used a screwdriver in slot to rotate it.

Had to temporarily reuse it until I get a new one. Anyone know the part #?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=24_1042

This is my car, which I'm sure is the same part number, just verify. #3 on the diagram.
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      06-09-2017, 05:12 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modmike View Post
So finished the valve body rebuild, filled it up and went for a drive.

Shifted super slow since I reset adaptations but started shifting much better the more I drove. Seems like I have more power as crazy as that sounds. I was even able to easily peel out, something I couldn't do before.

Fixed all my issues such as hard shifting, problems upshifting and finally a weird power pulse in low gear (almost a bucking).

It has been leaking a few drops for anout a year so could be low fluid but I doubt it. Old fluid was like dark honey and had no trace of a burnt smell or particles.

Weird thing is it only seemed to take about 7.5 litres even though I tried to fill it 3 separate times after running through the gears.

All in all amazing difference on a 9 year old car.
Awesome!
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      06-12-2017, 08:14 PM   #32
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Thanks!
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      02-06-2018, 02:48 PM   #33
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Does anyone know which adaptation procedure a 335i with build date prior to 09/07 should use, or which version of the 19.11 software it comes with (P or T)? The ZF chart only seems to specify for 09/07 onward.
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      02-06-2018, 09:11 PM   #34
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Does anyone know which adaptation procedure a 335i with build date prior to 09/07 should use, or which version of the 19.11 software it comes with (P or T)? The ZF chart only seems to specify for 09/07 onward.
I used the "T" version even though my car was a September 2006 build and the shift quality has been excellent post adaptation.
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      09-07-2018, 02:34 PM   #35
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You mentioned the solenoid foam kit in the parts list... did you end up using it? It doesn't seem like my transmission (an A/B063, like yours) came with a foam piece originally, so I'm not sure if I should be placing one on (or where I would, for that matter).
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      09-08-2018, 06:31 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slinkygn View Post
You mentioned the solenoid foam kit in the parts list... did you end up using it? It doesn't seem like my transmission (an A/B063, like yours) came with a foam piece originally, so I'm not sure if I should be placing one on (or where I would, for that matter).
Yes and is called out in the Sonnax attachment.
This prevents metal particulate getting in to solenoid and affecting the voltage.
I will add the foam being installed on the DIY
Have you started the rebuild?
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      11-05-2018, 02:10 PM   #37
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Just dropping this here

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      11-05-2018, 05:48 PM   #38
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Just dropping this here

Nice!
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      11-23-2018, 01:56 PM   #39
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necroing this useful thread...question...did you confirm the separator plate number before disassembly or disaasemble then order based on the part number in there. Based on the directions at thectsc you need the original part number. Would be nice if there was a way to figure out the part number without disassembly.
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      11-23-2018, 02:42 PM   #40
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Quote:
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necroing this useful thread...question...did you confirm the separator plate number before disassembly or disaasemble then order based on the part number in there. Based on the directions at thectsc you need the original part number. Would be nice if there was a way to figure out the part number without disassembly.
I made an educated guess deciphering the separator plate based on my car's build date(September '06).
I would contact Sonnax technical support and see if they can provide clear direction prior to disassembly. Let us know if they provide anything.
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      11-23-2018, 03:12 PM   #41
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Looks like the foam strip is hard to come by nowadays...
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      11-23-2018, 07:36 PM   #42
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Looks like the foam strip is hard to come by nowadays...
...but apparently I purchased one several years ago when I thought I had a transmission issue...found it in the bag with the sealing sleeves and mechatronic sleeveI had bought back then.
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      11-23-2018, 07:38 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Looks like the foam strip is hard to come by nowadays...
...but apparently I purchased one several years ago when I thought I had a transmission issue...found it in the bag with the sealing sleeves and mechatronic sleeveI had bought back then.
Nice!

Update: If you order the solenoids on the CTSC website, the foam strip can be added to the order.
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      12-15-2018, 10:38 PM   #44
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So, I have begun this job. So far, so good. Valve Body is on the bench. I replaced the solenoids and will open it up tomorrow. A couple of questions reading your DIY.

1. I am not sure I understand "keep the top valve body facing down" due to the check valves. It looks like the valve body sections are both "inside up" in your pics.

2. Can you describe your vacuum rig? I can't tell from your rig what type of fitting you were using or how large. Also, what vacuum value is "good"?

Thx! I am sure I will have more questions tomorrow...
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