[MadJoe]

So my 2006 325i had sprouted a tiny oil leak that I thought was the oil level sensor o-ring. After installing the new o-ring, and upon dumping an entire 5qt bottle of fresh oil into the engine, I quickly found out that the o-ring was not the only source of the leak if it was at all. Also, the "repair" I'd just done made the leak worse. Much worse. It turns out the rust around the mounting posts for the oil level sensor had gotten bad enough to start weeping in a spot, and my ham handedness tightening the nuts to reinstall the sensor apparently caused the small weep hole to grow into a larger steady dripping hole. Thankfully I was quick to realize this and my car was up high enough that I was able to get the oil jug under the drain hole and save 4.5qts of the oil. The search for a new pan began.

If you're unfamiliar with how BMW has screwed those of us who choose the manual transmission over the automatic in (at least) the 2006 E90's, let me tell you.

If you choose the Automatic Transmission option in your brand new E90 sedan, BMW decided you were worthy of an aluminum oil pan. If you foolishly opted for the more fun manual transmission in your E90 sport sedan, and live anywhere it may snow (or travel to places where it snows in order to ski or otherwise vacation), BMW decided you were worthy of a ticking time bomb under you car that apparently no 3rd party manufacturer has bothered to reproduce, or BMW has further decided to screw us by not allowing them too. We have a stamped steel oil pan that BMW charges $680 for. Not only that, the posts that the oil level sensor is mounted to are, as far as I can tell, a universal rusting point. At least all of the used examples I found were rusting in the same place as mine so I didn't bother wasting my money on a pan I'd be changing again in a year or two anyway. FCP Euro was the only place I could find selling one for less than $600 ($540) so I went with them. It arrived yesterday and has an oil dipstick tube. I verified the part number with multiple sources, and still ended up with what I must assume is the wrong pan.

I'll be removing the old pan this Friday and will know more then, but this is getting ridiculous. Has anyone else had to replace their oil pan?

[hassmaschine]

Would the aluminum pan fit on the 6MT car? I don't see why it couldn't.

[MadJoe]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Would the aluminum pan fit on the 6MT car? I don't see why it couldn't.

From what I understand, no. All the places I looked for the part were very specific that the oil pan was either for cars with the auto or the manual and wouldn't fit the other.

[Efthreeoh]

That is not a dipstick tube, it is the oil return line for the crank case ventilation system (CCV). No E90 had a mechanical dipstick except the diesel versions.

I've always thought it could be adapted to make a dipstick tube, but the e-dipstick works just fine IMO. My pan is starting to seep at the oil sensor too. Untill it starts to make a real mess, I'm leaving it RIP (rusted in place).

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Would the aluminum pan fit on the 6MT car? I don't see why it couldn't.

I agree. The auto trans just has bolts for the trans on the bell housing that thread into to aluminum oil pan IIRC.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by MadJoe

From what I understand, no. All the places I looked for the part were very specific that the oil pan was either for cars with the auto or the manual and wouldn't fit the other.

The steel pan wouldn't work for the auto, but I agree with Hass, the aluminum pan probably would work with a manual trans.

[MadJoe]

Has anyone tried that yet? I already have the steel pan, and the OEM one did last 13+ years, so if this one does as well I should never have to replace it again, but potentially saving hundreds of dollars is also very tempting. Can anyone confirm the auto pan will fit a manual car?

[hassmaschine]

I mean, you can get an auto pan for like $50. If you have to tear it all apart, why not see if it fits?

The only thing I can think of is the cover for the bellhousing is built into the aluminum pan, while it's a separate part on the steel pan. Might require some modification. But as far as fitting on the engine itself, yes of course it will.

If it fits, you save like $400. If it doesn't, you're out $50.

[MadJoe]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

If it fits, you save like $400. If it doesn't, you're out $50.

Could you provide a link to the $50 pan? The cheapest one I could find was on eBay and it was $130 or so. Plus with the different pan I'd need to also buy a different bolt set ($35) and a different gasket ($40), plus the aluminum pans have a different connector for the CCV return line, so I'd need to get that part as well (haven't gone looking to see what that costs yet, but I'm sure it's not free).

Edit to correct: The oil pan gaskets are the same, only need the oil return tube and the aluminum screw set. FCP Euro has both and they're under $40 total, so if you can link the $50 pan I'm willing to give this a shot. Thank you for all your suggestions and help, everyone!

[hassmaschine]

I bought a couple of them for my swap project (AWD and RWD, both aluminum). I used to check for stuff like that often.

[Terraphantm]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Would the aluminum pan fit on the 6MT car? I don't see why it couldn't.

It should. E60 manuals got the aluminum pan.

[MadJoe]

I just went ahead and installed the steel pan. I figure if I got 13+ years out of it the first time without even thinking about it, I should be able to get another 13 out of one I actually take the time to wash the salt off of once in while. Time was the real factor, though, I just couldn't leave my car up on jack stands in my driveway, never mind drive the Wife's minivan to work one more day. I had a pan in hand and did what needed doing.

There's a video on YouTube with a very in depth description of replacing the oil pan gasket on an automatic E90 which I used for the basics, but honestly I was able to get it done without taking even half of what that guy does off my car. I'm thinking about doing a DIY post if there's any interest.

Also, it seems the only major difference between the two transmissions is on the Auto you need to remove the transmission cooling lines, which means you'd need to have some ATF on hand as well, but other than that they're pretty much identical.

[dwashy]

Originally Posted by MadJoe

I'm thinking about doing a DIY post if there's any interest.

I'd appreciate it . My 330i just rolled over 150k, and I assume I'll have a leaking oil pan soon.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by MadJoe

I just went ahead and installed the steel pan. I figure if I got 13+ years out of it the first time without even thinking about it, I should be able to get another 13 out of one I actually take the time to wash the salt off of once in while. Time was the real factor, though, I just couldn't leave my car up on jack stands in my driveway, never mind drive the Wife's minivan to work one more day. I had a pan in hand and did what needed doing.

There's a video on YouTube with a very in depth description of replacing the oil pan gasket on an automatic E90 which I used for the basics, but honestly I was able to get it done without taking even half of what that guy does off my car. I'm thinking about doing a DIY post if there's any interest.

Also, it seems the only major difference between the two transmissions is on the Auto you need to remove the transmission cooling lines, which means you'd need to have some ATF on hand as well, but other than that they're pretty much identical.

There is a very detailed DIY on the oil pan already.

[MadJoe]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

There is a very detailed DIY on the oil pan already.

Thanks, I found that. I've posted my write up as a comment because I saw a few thing the OP did that weren't necessary and one that would cost the person money or safety if they followed it (namely he suggest you remove the engine mounts via their mounting bolts, which are aluminum and single use, when you just need to remove the reusable engine mounting nut instead).

Actually, after this repair I've found removing the subframe to be so easy that I'm planning to do it again when I finally replace my thermostat. Trying to replace it without removing the subframe, as I've done twice now, is hell which is why I've hesitated to replace this latest one (my original thermostat went at about 120,000 miles, the replacement I got opened too early and set off my service engine soon light, the seller replaced it with a new one that they were sure wouldn't and that one also sets off my SES light, but because the repair was so time consuming and difficult I've hesitated fixing it again until now).

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by MadJoe

Thanks, I found that. I've posted my write up as a comment because I saw a few thing the OP did that weren't necessary and one that would cost the person money or safety if they followed it (namely he suggest you remove the engine mounts via their mounting bolts, which are aluminum and single use, when you just need to remove the reusable engine mounting nut instead).

Actually, after this repair I've found removing the subframe to be so easy that I'm planning to do it again when I finally replace my thermostat. Trying to replace it without removing the subframe, as I've done twice now, is hell which is why I've hesitated to replace this latest one (my original thermostat went at about 120,000 miles, the replacement I got opened too early and set off my service engine soon light, the seller replaced it with a new one that they were sure wouldn't and that one also sets off my SES light, but because the repair was so time consuming and difficult I've hesitated fixing it again until now).

A few things... So when you say "remove the subframe" do you mean unbolting it and letting it hang from the struts, or do you mean pulling the frame entirely out from the car? Just curious. And you really don't need to drop/remove the subframe to get the t-stat out. When I did my t-stat years ago, I was easily able to get it out of the car without much trouble. Removing the radiator fan is the trick and moving the power steering hose loop out of the way. You can then just rotate the t-stat and pulling it towards the rear and drop it down between the engine and cross member.

And I'm surprised you've had to replace it more than once. Are you using an OE BMW replacement? I replaced mine in February 2011 at 132,000 miles and have had a t-stat code since, some 245,000 miles later.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

A few things... So when you say "remove the subframe" do you mean unbolting it and letting it hang from the struts, or do you mean pulling the frame entirely out from the car? Just curious. And you really don't need to drop/remove the subframe to get the t-stat out. When I did my t-stat years ago, I was easily able to get it out of the car without much trouble. Removing the radiator fan is the trick and moving the power steering hose loop out of the way. You can then just rotate the t-stat and pulling it towards the rear and drop it down between the engine and cross member.

And I'm surprised you've had to replace it more than once. Are you using an OE BMW replacement? I replaced mine in February 2011 at 132,000 miles and have had a t-stat code since, some 245,000 miles later.

Let it hang, don't need to undo the control arms. Although space was a little tight - I pulled down on the subframe while my friend pushed the oil pan into and out of place.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Let it hang, don't need to undo the control arms. Although space was a little tight - I pulled down on the subframe while my friend pushed the oil pan into and out of place.

Yeah, I just dropped the subframe when I did my pan. The trick is to unbolt the heater hose pipe from the crossmember, which lets the subframe drop a few more inches. MadJoe makes it sound like he pulled the entire subframe out, which I think is a lot more work, as well as unnecessary. Hanging the subframe to remove the t-stat is way overkill IMO.

[MadJoe]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

A few things... So when you say "remove the subframe" do you mean unbolting it and letting it hang from the struts, or do you mean pulling the frame entirely out from the car? Just curious. And you really don't need to drop/remove the subframe to get the t-stat out. When I did my t-stat years ago, I was easily able to get it out of the car without much trouble. Removing the radiator fan is the trick and moving the power steering hose loop out of the way. You can then just rotate the t-stat and pulling it towards the rear and drop it down between the engine and cross member.

And I'm surprised you've had to replace it more than once. Are you using an OE BMW replacement? I replaced mine in February 2011 at 132,000 miles and have had a t-stat code since, some 245,000 miles later.

Yes, unbolt it and let it hang from the suspension parts still attached. Just remember to remove the heater hose that's connected to it or it will put undue stress on it and possibly cause a leak.

About the thermostat, no, I didn't use an OE part unfortunately. At the time my budget was tight and a cheap knockoff was all I could afford. I was actually replacing the water pump, but the thermostat came with it along with replacement bolts all for under $200. It was a hard deal to pass up.
They did warranty replace the first one at least...yeah, I've learned my lesson. But I'd still drop the subframe to replace it because it really is easy and gives you so much access to the thermostat area. My biggest problem with the thermostat is getting the hoses off, I don't have huge hands, but they're large and getting in there without space I can't get the leverage necessary to remove them without serious squirming and cursing. When the subframe was hanging out of the way, I could see it would be easy (or at least MUCH easier) to remove that way.

[MadJoe]

I drew up some more detailed instructions and posted them in the oil pan thread.

You can find the post here.