[BoStoNe90]

Hi, so just wondering if anyone can help me out. My girlfriends 328xi shifter is stuck in park. As of now she's using the bypass button under the shifter. The signs that popped up are a foot and pedal and a exclamation sign with a rough circle. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks. And she out of warranty.

[Wires]

Originally Posted by BoStoNe90

Hi, so just wondering if anyone can help me out. My girlfriends 328xi shifter is stuck in park. As of now she's using the bypass button under the shifter. The signs that popped up are a foot and pedal and a exclamation sign with a rough circle. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks. And she out of warranty.

You typically need to press the brake pedal to get it out of park. Do the brake lights work? It sounds like it's not seeing the brake pedal input, hence the warning and locked in park issue.

[BoStoNe90]

Originally Posted by Wires

You typically need to press the brake pedal to get it out of park. Do the brake lights work? It sounds like it's not seeing the brake pedal input, hence the warning and locked in park issue.

Yes im pressing it all the way down, and yes my brake lights work. Could it be the brake light switch?

[KTS1010]

Is the emergency break fully un-released?

[3lusive]

Originally Posted by KTS1010

Is the emergency break fully un-released?

I'm not sure if this makes any difference, I thought that the shifter will move regardless of whether the e-brake is engaged.

[username604]

Originally Posted by KTS1010

Is the emergency break fully un-released?

FACT: the shift lever will move regardless of the ebrake position, FACT!

[fdriller9]

It sounds like the symbol you're describing is the transmission error symbol.

Have you noticed any trans fluid under the car? Mainly on the undercarriage liner. If so, have the mechatronics sealing sleeve checked out.

[BoStoNe90]

Originally Posted by *********

It sounds like the symbol you're describing is the transmission error symbol.

Have you noticed any trans fluid under the car? Mainly on the undercarriage liner. If so, have the mechatronics sealing sleeve checked out.

I dont seem to see any fluids.

[ceb]

Shift interlock relay defective or out of alignment.

Wasn't this a common problem on early cars?

[BoStoNe90]

Originally Posted by ceb

Shift interlock relay defective or out of alignment.

Wasn't this a common problem on early cars?

No fluids leaking with car on and running. What is the shift interlock? And my girlfriends car is an 08 so I wouldn't know if they have these known issues.

[ceb]

Originally Posted by BoStoNe90

No fluids leaking with car on and running. What is the shift interlock? And my girlfriends car is an 08 so I wouldn't know if they have these known issues.

There is a switch that determines that the brake pedal is depressed before it will let you shift out of park. If the switch is defective or out of adjustment then you cannot shift out of park.

You'll need to go to the dealer or a independent BMW mechanic to get this sorted.

[BoStoNe90]

Originally Posted by ceb

There is a switch that determines that the brake pedal is depressed before it will let you shift out of park. If the switch is defective or out of adjustment then you cannot shift out of park.

You'll need to go to the dealer or a independent BMW mechanic to get this sorted.

Just found out one of my back in the days friend works at a bmw dealership and said he would hook it up to the machine to see what's wrong with it for me. So when I have time ill get it done and hopefully it won't be anything too major. Ill let you guys know.

[mnmz2012]

Originally Posted by BoStoNe90

Just found out one of my back in the days friend works at a bmw dealership and said he would hook it up to the machine to see what's wrong with it for me. So when I have time ill get it done and hopefully it won't be anything too major. Ill let you guys know.

hi, i have the exact same problem as your girl friends 328, gear shifter stuck in park, with pedal light and transmission fault light on, im sure the problem has been sorted by now, do you remember what the eaxt fault was ??

any input will be much appreciaated .. thanks

[DRangel12]

Hello, My car is unfortunately stuck in limp mode. The fault codes I have from Carly APP read as follow:

1- Fault Code 00CD99
2- Fault Code 00CD9E
3- Fault Code 00CD9D
4- Fault Code 00CDB0

Does anyone know what they may mean or help point me in the right direction.

Thank you,
-Dan

[F1mugen]

same issues here along with other multiple issues like the radiator fan on full speed on startup (constantly on)

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by F1mugen

same issues here along with other multiple issues like the radiator fan on full speed on startup (constantly on)

Can't help with the "other multiple issues", but if the Shifter won't move out of Park when you have ignition on and brake firmly pressed:
1) Check to see if brakelight switch is working (brake lights on), and if so
2) You can manually override the electrically operated "Park Solenoid" by pressing a button/lever located under the shift lever boot (you have to pry up the boot). I can't find that procedure in either Bentley or TIS, but it is in my Owner's Manual. Look in Index under "Overriding Selector Lever Lock."

If you would list the "other multiple issues" and indicate which ones occurred at basically the same time/date mileage, along with any codes read, perhaps we could identify a common issue, such as a communication or BUS issue. The fan should run for a brief bit (NOT a FULL speed) at startup simply for system-test purposes, so in order to obtain any proper diagnosis of an issue, you need to experiment and record/ report data (time, temperature, etc.) accurately.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[F1mugen]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Can't help with the "other multiple issues", but if the Shifter won't move out of Park when you have ignition on and brake firmly pressed:
1) Check to see if brakelight switch is working (brake lights on), and if so
2) You can manually override the electrically operated "Park Solenoid" by pressing a button/lever located under the shift lever boot (you have to pry up the boot). I can't find that procedure in either Bentley or TIS, but it is in my Owner's Manual. Look in Index under "Overriding Selector Lever Lock."

If you would list the "other multiple issues" and indicate which ones occurred at basically the same time/date mileage, along with any codes read, perhaps we could identify a common issue, such as a communication or BUS issue. The fan should run for a brief bit (NOT a FULL speed) at startup simply for system-test purposes, so in order to obtain any proper diagnosis of an issue, you need to experiment and record/ report data (time, temperature, etc.) accurately.

Please let us know what you find,
George

thanks for your swift reply. i will send a picture of the codes i have showing at the moment. the fan starts up at full speed like boeing 777 engine. ABS and Traction lights also showing in instrument display.

brake light switch seems to be working fine as lights are operating normally and also tested on inpa.

all faults happened same time/date, mileage is 109k

when this issue happend at first i did have a weak battery so changed it with a new one and coded it to my car and also changed refurbished alternator with new regulator as voltage before changing them was showing 15.2v... after the changed parts it now shows 13.3v at crank/ startup and goes to 15.2v but then after a minute or so comes back to 14.7 stable.

hope that shines some light on the issues im having.

shaz

[IMG]undefined[/IMG]

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by F1mugen

...fan starts up at full speed like boeing 777 engine. [ I understand, but how many seconds elapse after engine start before fan speed decreases?] ABS and Traction lights also showing in instrument display. [ Yes, I understand you have DSC errors] brake light switch seems to be working fine as lights are operating normally and also tested on inpa. all faults happened same time/date, mileage is 109k

when this issue happend at first i did have a weak battery so changed it with a new one and coded it to my car and also changed refurbished alternator with new regulator as voltage before changing them was showing 15.2v... after the changed parts it now shows 13.3v at crank/ startup and goes to 15.2v but then after a minute or so comes back to 14.7 stable...

Perhaps I misunderstood your first post. Do you have an automatic transmission, and is it stuck in Park? If so, did you try the "Override" procedure, and did it work? Reasons I ask: (1) you didn't say anything about that, and (2) your INPA readout does NOT show any EGS (Transmission) Module. In fact, it looks like the INPA screens you attach are for something other than an E90 (E60 perhaps?).

Voltage spikes from defective Alternator/Voltage Regulator WILL cause a light-show on the dash due to voltage spikes causing malfunction of Modules and/or Faults in communication between modules. What you describe in general terms appears consistent with voltage spikes. Normally, replacing the voltage regulator and attaining proper charging system voltage output restores proper function. Did you Clear the codes, and have they returned?

Diesel/DDE applications may have higher Voltage output limits than the N52 DME with which I am familiar, but I would be a bit concerned about any alternator output reliably measured > 15.0 Volts. If you have ANY doubts about the stability of the Alternator Voltage Output, I would suggest activating Hidden Menu 9.00 so that system voltage is displayed on your instrument cluster in Real Time, as you drive.

It is usually beneficial to SAVE (on your hard-drive) ALL Fault code information, including Fault codes, Fault code Definitions, Details and/or Freeze Frame data (including km) of ALL faults BEFORE clearing, so that you have a reliable history should the problem, or something similar, recur. It would CERTAINLY help Forum members eyestrain and diagnosis ability if you would do the following instead of taking a photo of your computer screen. For each INPA screen that you want to save for your own future reference, and for any you want to post as an attachment here:

1) Press Shift+PrtSc to save the screen in temporary memory (one screen at a time);
2) Open Paint (Windows Accessory photo editor) or other photo editor of choice;
3) Paste ScreenPrint to that program;
4) Save the file in Folder of choice (Save As) as a "jpg" format file.

I can't read the screen images you attached, but if you attached properly-sized jpg files, we could read them clearly. Although I am tempted to guess at several things, it would probably be more productive to simply get clear jpg files and NOT guess. If you connect to each Module (DDE, DSC, EGS, etc.) that has a fault reported by Functional Jobs or whatever you used to get the printout of ALL modules, you can get a Definition of the Fault code and also Details or Freeze Frame Data related to each fault. THEN we don't have to guess. Codes alone are NOT terribly helpful.

George

[assassinsbrotherhood]

I have just started having an issue too. I have had an upgraded shift knob for 18mths no problems. Took off shifter to remove console and now wont disengage from park even though the locking mech arm is disengaging when I turn it on.Any help would be great. And no broken wires or anything else as I have tried it all. Just strange to remove knob and now no work.? I tried the original knob and same thing.?