[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by AoS810

Hello e90post!

Just wanted to add my experience with this and a video I recorded. I have an E90 N51 (SULEV) and this is the 2nd time this whistling sound along with rough idle has happened. I am in Orange County, CA so the temperatures are roughly in the 60s to 70s. My car was fully warmed up after a long 50 minute commute with a mix of typical rush hour traffic speeds up to 70-75mph.

Anyone know if this is covered under the SULEV warranty? I currently have around ~140K miles so I'm still covered. I also have a 2A87 code for the exhaust vanos solenoid.

*EDIT* I forgot to add, I waited about 5-10 minutes after I shutoff the car, and turned it back on again and it was completely normal, no whistling or rough idle. Returned to the smooth N51 idling at 600rpm.

Thanks!

- James

Next time it does the whistling sound, try to open the oil fil cap on the engine. If you feel high vacuum while opening it and the whistling sound goes away as it is opened, you have problem with the crank case breather valve that is integrated on the valve cover. I don't know Sulev covers it or not.

[javaperson]

This whistling sound and shake @idle happened to me today for the first time. I had not read the forums about this issue, so when it happened after a 30min drive today, it was worrisome. I was coming off the freeway, the issue started happening. At idle, I'd hear a whistling sound, the engine rpms were not stable, and the car would shake. When accelerating from a light, the whistling sound would decrease. When I got home, I turned off the engine, immediately restarted, and all the issues were gone. Rev'ed the engine a little and shifted into D, R - no issues.

I read your other (more recent thread) about RPM surge on gear selection - is that a separate issue or is it this same issue, but it has evolved?

I've already changed my valve cover gasket a little while ago, so trying to figure out what could be the issue (135k on a '10 e90 n52). It sounds like people are thinking Vanos intake/exhaust solenoid or maybe a PCV issue...

Originally Posted by AoS810

Hello e90post!

Just wanted to add my experience with this and a video I recorded. I have an E90 N51 (SULEV) and this is the 2nd time this whistling sound along with rough idle has happened. I am in Orange County, CA so the temperatures are roughly in the 60s to 70s. My car was fully warmed up after a long 50 minute commute with a mix of typical rush hour traffic speeds up to 70-75mph.

Anyone know if this is covered under the SULEV warranty? I currently have around ~140K miles so I'm still covered. I also have a 2A87 code for the exhaust vanos solenoid.

*EDIT* I forgot to add, I waited about 5-10 minutes after I shutoff the car, and turned it back on again and it was completely normal, no whistling or rough idle. Returned to the smooth N51 idling at 600rpm.

Thanks!

- James

[alexwhittemore]

I'm running into this EXACT issue now - cropped up yesterday for the first time when I got home from work. Has anyone positively identified whether it's the PCV or the VANOS solenoids? FWIW - I don't have a check engine light, and regardless of what component is the root cause, my dealership won't even take my keys without a check engine light, much less cover a repair under SULEV warranty.

Originally Posted by J Dibbz

I ended up removing both the intake and exhaust vanos solenoids and cleaning with CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner. After cleaning I swapped their positions. So far haven't had the sound come up again and it's been about 3 weeks.

Is your issue officially fixed, or has it come back at all?

Originally Posted by javaperson

I read your other (more recent thread) about RPM surge on gear selection - is that a separate issue or is it this same issue, but it has evolved?

I've already changed my valve cover gasket a little while ago, so trying to figure out what could be the issue (135k on a '10 e90 n52). It sounds like people are thinking Vanos intake/exhaust solenoid or maybe a PCV issue...

I had some recent trouble with apparent power loss once the car warmed up - it wasn't a problem when the car was COLD, but after about 15m of driving, it'd crop up where the car would hesitate especially going from 2>3 or 3>4 or something.

Turns out, the "lifetime" transmission fluid has a "lifetime" of 100k miles or 8 years, PER THE TRANSMISSION MANUFACTURER. Flushing it is difficult since it's designed to trap fluid even with the drain open, but my mechanic did a drain and fill, drive around to mix it up, and a second drain and fill. Cleared the problem RIGHT up.

So it's possible that, since you've got a decently high-mileage 328, that's your issue. But the issue feels like it's coming back for me, so possibly I need another change, or possibly it's actually caused by THIS underlying issue, this time, and not transmission related.

[J Dibbz]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

I'm running into this EXACT issue now - cropped up yesterday for the first time when I got home from work. Has anyone positively identified whether it's the PCV or the VANOS solenoids? FWIW - I don't have a check engine light, and regardless of what component is the root cause, my dealership won't even take my keys without a check engine light, much less cover a repair under SULEV warranty.



Is your issue officially fixed, or has it come back at all?

After cleaning the vanos solenoids my issues was fixed for about 4 months then the sound came back. I ended up purchasing two new solenoids back in July. The sound hasn't come back since then so it's been about 3 months.

I'd recommend you try and clean the vanos solenoids first since since it's cheap and easy. Maybe a 30 min DIY.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by J Dibbz

After cleaning the vanos solenoids my issues was fixed for about 4 months then the sound came back. I ended up purchasing two new solenoids back in July. The sound hasn't come back since then so it's been about 3 months.

I'd recommend you try and clean the vanos solenoids first since since it's cheap and easy. Maybe a 30 min DIY.

Thanks for the follow up! That seems pretty consistent with the VANOS code I found last night when I looked. Glad the likely culprit A isn’t a failing PCV valve - replacing the valve cover sounds like a pain. Solenoids seem much cheaper and quicker

Edit: any thoughts on replacement brand? I’m looking now and prices range WILDLY from $40 for 2 to $175 for one on Amazon, and even ecs tuning has a wide range from $70-$152 /1. I’m happy not to pay the OEM tax, but what is the correct price point for an aftermarket solenoid that won’t implode in 20 miles?

[J Dibbz]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

Thanks for the follow up! That seems pretty consistent with the VANOS code I found last night when I looked. Glad the likely culprit A isn’t a failing PCV valve - replacing the valve cover sounds like a pain. Solenoids seem much cheaper and quicker

Edit: any thoughts on replacement brand? I’m looking now and prices range WILDLY from $40 for 2 to $175 for one on Amazon, and even ecs tuning has a wide range from $70-$152 /1. I’m happy not to pay the OEM tax, but what is the correct price point for an aftermarket solenoid that won’t implode in 20 miles?

This was my first time purchasing vanos solenoids so I wasn't sure what aftermarket brand is safe to get as oppose to OEM which I think price at around $300 for both. There should be a few threads on here about user's experiences with different brands. There seems to be mixed reviews about the quality of the cheap ones on amazon or ebay and I didn't feel like taking the risk. I ended up getting the ones at Autozone (Duralast brand I think. It was around $200 for both). There was a time I had to replace an ignition coil maybe over 2 years ago and I got it from Autozone (same brand). That ignition coil hasn't caused me any problems since.

Also if anything happened in the first couple 100 miles it would be easy to take it back to Autozone then having to deal with shipping parts back and waiting for a replacement or refund.

[alexwhittemore]

So I sat down to plan out today’s VANOS cleaning and headlight restoration and realized my oil is 7k miles overdue for a change... on a 15k interval. So like maybe THAT’S why the solenoids are fouling up and throwing codes 😬

In my defense, I just picked up a 70 mile RT commute a few months ago, and I guess I was on the high end of the interval to begin with.

I’ll let you know if replacing the tar with actual oil clears up the VANOS issues 😂

[runnr548]

Same noise started on our 2011 328i recently. Turned the car off; restarted and no noise. Two weeks later it happens again, along with rough idle, loss of power then stalling. Car restarted but idled very roughly. I will see if the oil fill cap will open easily when running, and then I guess it's time to play "what parts do I buy and from where"! WOOT! BS! :-)
PS - Merry Christmas from a fellow BMW owner/repair/parts/etc person.

[Jesda]

I had a combination of issues -- eccentric shaft sensor was bad and the crankcase vent hose was cracked.

[MrGalvan801]

Originally Posted by runnr548

Same noise started on our 2011 328i recently. Turned the car off; restarted and no noise. Two weeks later it happens again, along with rough idle, loss of power then stalling. Car restarted but idled very roughly. I will see if the oil fill cap will open easily when running, and then I guess it's time to play "what parts do I buy and from where"! WOOT! BS! :-)
PS - Merry Christmas from a fellow BMW owner/repair/parts/etc person.

I have the same issue. I replaced the Vanos Solenoids this weekend. It helped a little, but didn't stop the high squeal and the shaking and rough idling.

I have it being looked at as we speak with a mechanic.

Once, they diagnose, I'll follow up.

[BargainE90328i]

Hey Guys,

I had this same issue. The loud whistling whining noise was actually the PCV that is built into the valve cover. I was able to get it to stop by putting some compressed air into the PCV nipple on the valve cover. Once I changed the valve cover, no more whistling noise. HOWEVER, i still have a horrible shake and fluctuating RPM at idle that I am trying to solve.

Hope that helps!

[Gammicus!]

Originally Posted by MrGalvan801

I have the same issue. I replaced the Vanos Solenoids this weekend. It helped a little, but didn't stop the high squeal and the shaking and rough idling.

I have it being looked at as we speak with a mechanic.

Once, they diagnose, I'll follow up.

What ended up being the issue? Any update would be appreciated. I just heard the high pitch noise and I'm wondering if I'm going to need to replace the VANOS + something else. Thanks.

[M.a.r.k.1]

Hi all, I know this is way late for you but in case others have the same problem as mine just started this same issue yesterday; it is the diaphragm in the PCV valve that is making that noise. And you cannot just replace the PCV valve it is integrated into the valve cover which has to be replaced. Here as of today at BMW of Ocala in Florida the part alone lists at $596 and change before tax. The service department was too understaffed to speak to me about the labor estimate, but it is a fairly involved process that has to be done right or you can screw up the valvetronic motor that adjusts your timing. The air filters, wipers, shelf the filters sit on, all 6 spark coils, the injector harness, and the valvetronic motor all have to be removed. Then the cover replaced and the reassembled, to do it right will take hours, even I could do but it would take some time and I am afraid to screw it up.

A couple of you say you have this problem but do not mention the year of your car. The 2011 had a recall on the PCV issue. Mine is a 2013 and the '12 and '13 had a different part number, no recall even though it is the same problem.

Here is the best video I can find on it and when you hear the noise and symptoms you will KNOW it is what is up with your car. It is not really like any other sound I ever heard coming from an engine bay. Watch the whole video and he does explain the parts you can't hear because of engine noise.

Good luck, as for me I am going to go trade mine today, I just paid $2,000 for a new hall sensor in early August and simply cannot afford to drive a car with no warranty even though mine only has 67k on the odo.

Watch the whole video and he does explain the parts you can't hear because of engine noise.

[runnr548]

Originally Posted by runnr548

Same noise started on our 2011 328i recently. Turned the car off; restarted and no noise. Two weeks later it happens again, along with rough idle, loss of power then stalling. Car restarted but idled very roughly. I will see if the oil fill cap will open easily when running, and then I guess it's time to play "what parts do I buy and from where"! WOOT! BS! :-)
PS - Merry Christmas from a fellow BMW owner/repair/parts/etc person.

Long time since I looked at the thread. LiquiMoly engine flush, oil and filter change....problem gone. :-)