[PhaseP]

I had replaced that hose with OEM. The newer OEM's also come with yellow black fitting there, the original/old one on the car was all black. But other than the yellow inside color it was same as the one installed from factory.

Like I wrote earlier that fitting when pushed down on the tube coming out of the oil pan just clicks in. You may need to twist a little pushing it down to overcome friction from the two parallel O-rings inside, that is all.
My guess is the non OEM hose/fitting is giving you problem. Also just in case, don't press or push on the yellow barbed sections when putting it in the tube. That may make it difficult too. (For the sake of others reading this when disconnecting it, you push on the fitting down which pushes those barbed sections up and unlocks it, then you hold the barbed sections keeping them up and pull it out. Some twisting also may help when disconnecting it. This hose and its connection on the oil pan side is discussed lengthy in the Oil Pan Gasket replacement DIY thread at the DIY section.)

As to replace it with IM in place, if you can reach your hand under the oil filter separator where the other hand is to connect, it is doable.

During my oil separator valve replacement I had to actually do it that way but before the IM was bolted in. Because I had a hard time to snake that hose on the correct place from top along with the IM when it was already connected at the IM side. So I had put the IM on top, but all loose. Fished the hose from bottom. And since IM was loose was able to hardly reach my fingers and pushed it up on the oil separator valve to click in there.

One last thing, one of the reasons why the OEM is thin plastic hose is because a rubber one would insulate the heat that is supposed to come from the heating element.

I didn't mean you would get immediate engine failure without the check valve there, but along the way why risk it going forward. My "not too late" was for you already finished up and bottomed up everything late. Since it is pain to work on those again

[RuinE90d]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

I had replaced that hose with OEM. The newer OEM's also come with yellow black fitting there, the original/old one on the car was all black. But other than the yellow inside color it was same as the one installed from factory.

Like I wrote earlier that fitting when pushed down on the tube coming out of the oil pan just clicks in. You may need to twist a little pushing it down to overcome friction from the two parallel O-rings inside, that is all.
My guess is the non OEM hose/fitting is giving you problem. Also just in case, don't press or push on the yellow barbed sections when putting it in the tube. That may make it difficult too. (For the sake of others reading this when disconnecting it, you push on the fitting down which pushes those barbed sections up and unlocks it, then you hold the barbed sections keeping them up and pull it out. Some twisting also may help when disconnecting it. This hose and its connection on the oil pan side is discussed lengthy in the Oil Pan Gasket replacement DIY thread at the DIY section.)

As to replace it with IM in place, if you can reach your hand under the oil filter separator where the other hand is to connect, it is doable.

During my oil separator valve replacement I had to actually do it that way but before the IM was bolted in. Because I had a hard time to snake that hose on the correct place from top along with the IM when it was already connected at the IM side. So I had put the IM on top, but all loose. Fished the hose from bottom. And since IM was loose was able to hardly reach my fingers and pushed it up on the oil separator valve to click in there.

One last thing, one of the reasons why the OEM is thin plastic hose is because a rubber one would insulate the heat that is supposed to come from the heating element.

I didn't mean you would get immediate engine failure without the check valve there, but along the way why risk it going forward. My "not too late" was for you already finished up and bottomed up everything late. Since it is pain to work on those again

Thanks for taking the time to share and help out with my project! I really appreciate your help and discussion.

I've decided to just install a ball check valve (barbed inlet/outlet) in the current oil return hose instead of buying another OEM hose. I will report back if that doesn't work for some reason.

[RuinE90d]

Fits like a glove!

Got the hose bib installed, bled the cooling system and started the car. Runs great, no noticeable noise from the Valeo SMF kit in gear or in neutral. Wasn't able to drive it on the road tonight due to snow... but I pulled it in and out of the garage a few times to verify all systems are operational.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Fits like a glove!

Got the hose bib installed, bled the cooling system and started the car. Runs great, no noticeable noise from the Valeo SMF kit in gear or in neutral. Wasn't able to drive it on the road tonight due to snow... but I pulled it in and out of the garage a few times to verify all systems are operational.

Hats off to you Brother. Got time for a reinstall of my Hummer's H3T fuel tank? I could use a hand

I'll be ordering 2 ea. of that part here real soon. Thanks again for the confirmation.

[RuinE90d]

Sure thing, bring it on over!

Glad I could help with the hose bib, thanks for sharing it with me!

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Thanks for taking the time to share and help out with my project! I really appreciate your help and discussion.

I've decided to just install a ball check valve (barbed inlet/outlet) in the current oil return hose instead of buying another OEM hose. I will report back if that doesn't work for some reason.

Thanks for sharing your project here too. When my car will need clutch/flywheel replacement, these thread will be helpful as reference.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Sure thing, bring it on over!

Glad I could help with the hose bib, thanks for sharing it with me!

I was thinking the other way around. It's up on the lift right now and the empty tank strapped to the transmission lift.

Getting correct GM parts off the Web is a PIA; far more difficult than BMW. Finally had to go to my local Chevy dealer. He gave me a good price for the pump however.

But seriously, thanks for the post. A lot of good info you provided. I'm definitely going to make the swap to the aluminum bib for both my N52s. When I did a complete coolant hose swap a few years ago I didn't notice any degradation in that hose bib on my OE hose (I think I still have it somewhere in the garage...). But for the price and small effort it seems like a prudent upgrade.

[RuinE90d]

Glad I could contribute to the forum! I added some tool and part numbers on page 1 today since I'm snowed in.

In closing, I ended up ordering/replacing around 30 items and spent around $1500 on parts. While it was expensive and time consuming, I did quite a bit more than a dealer or indy shop would have in the typical clutch job at +$2k. My advice is to disassemble before you order parts and try not to pay for rush shipping.

[cupajoe]

nice work I would like to rent the seal puller/installer tool from you.. just waiting for my account to be verified or what not and I think that post does this after 1 hour.

[RuinE90d]

After further driving I would report some increased noise not originally reported. I would specify gears 1-3 being about 20% noisier at lower rpms for me. I'm not sure if it's related to the clutch or shifter rebuild or both... I sort of doubt it's the clutch conversion. I have the E46 M3 trans mounts but engine mounts are 335 iS. I suspect noise is coming from the shifter rebuild kit.

Regardless of the increased noise I still recommend this kit. The car accelerates nicer/smoother/more promptly than with the DMF.

Additionally, I mentioned that I tried the Febi 75w 80 MTF... after a week or two I wasn't happy with the notchy 2nd Gear in freezing temps. Despite searching around and reading good things about Redline I had also read a positive review for and went with Motul Gear 300. Once again I was displeased after a few cold weeks with basically the same notchy feeling. Finally, I switched to Royal Purple Syncrhromax which seems better than the other two, especially for second gear. Admittedly I should have researched fluids a little more initially and probably still left some satisfaction on the table. In the end I paid as much or more than BMW MTL-2, SMH.

[DaanBMW]

In case you still need to chase the oil thing: I read and now use the 70-30% RL MT90 (75w90 synth) + Pennzoil Synchromesh. Supposedly better for noise, and like I mentioned in my other thread I've no increased noise at idle (at least at the colder temps we had here the last 2 weeks), only upon acceleration and there the noise is downright ricey (w/ new e46 m3 tranny mounts & 034 Motorsports motor mounts).

Before I had used RL D4 ATF (could not stand it for more than 2 weeks), Pennzoil Synchromesh (this is a v. good oil the downside being it's dyno), RL MTL.

[BudVlad]

I finally installed aluminum single mass from SPEC. It’s absolutely quiet at idle, maybe little more noise with acceleration. Big improvement in gaining RPMs.

[martinm0]

Can anyone confirm if the Valeo SMF conversion kit works with a pre-LCI E90 328xi? From what I've been able to find on the forums, it seems this kit was offered for both RWD and AWD E9x cars from comments I've read, but the kit now seems to be specifically for RWD even though others have confirmed that the clutch is the correct size for the XI and 330i cars.

The main reason I ask is that my XI just feels so elastic when I get the revs going, and I really feel like the DMFW must be part of the problem. The self adjusting clutch is probably an issue too as I find the engagement/disengagement points to be all over the place, and get serious gear lash going 1-2 or 2-3. I have removed the CDV and installed Koni yellows and Monroe rear upper mounts, which have helped a little. The engine also sometimes stumbles briefly on very rare occasions that almost feels like the DMFW is out of rotation, causing the RPMs to drop some a split second.

Am I on the right path here? I don't want to derail the thread and mostly want to confirm if there is any reason the SMF conversion kit would not work with the AWD/xi.

[Taskmaster]

it will fit.

[martinm0]

Originally Posted by Taskmaster

it will fit.

Thanks, Taskmaster. Do we know why it's no longer listed as fitting AWD models? Just got off the phone with UUC and they also confirmed that it was once listed as for both RWD and AWD vehicles, but that there are some slight differences, specifically the bolt pattern (6 vs 8 bolts).

I also have the N51 motor. UUC seemed to think this was an older motor to N52, and that the N51 would have the 6 bolt pattern and that would technically work with the kit. I've never heard someone say N52 was the successor to N51...

I'm inclined to believe all I've read and that this should fit no issue, but would like to get the details down for what specifically would cause this to work or not work for N51/N52, pre-LCI/LCI.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by martinm0

Thanks, Taskmaster. Do we know why it's no longer listed as fitting AWD models? Just got off the phone with UUC and they also confirmed that it was once listed as for both RWD and AWD vehicles, but that there are some slight differences, specifically the bolt pattern (6 vs 8 bolts).

I also have the N51 motor. UUC seemed to think this was an older motor to N52, and that the N51 would have the 6 bolt pattern and that would technically work with the kit. I've never heard someone say N52 was the successor to N51...

I'm inclined to believe all I've read and that this should fit no issue, but would like to get the details down for what specifically would cause this to work or not work for N51/N52, pre-LCI/LCI.

From what I remember, it was heavier duty. But the clutch I used in my car was a 328Xi clutch - which is soon to be replaced by this Valeo Single unit.

[W37V]

"Efthreeoh
Banned"

When did this happen?

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by martinm0

Thanks, Taskmaster. Do we know why it's no longer listed as fitting AWD models? Just got off the phone with UUC and they also confirmed that it was once listed as for both RWD and AWD vehicles, but that there are some slight differences, specifically the bolt pattern (6 vs 8 bolts).

I also have the N51 motor. UUC seemed to think this was an older motor to N52, and that the N51 would have the 6 bolt pattern and that would technically work with the kit. I've never heard someone say N52 was the successor to N51...

I'm inclined to believe all I've read and that this should fit no issue, but would like to get the details down for what specifically would cause this to work or not work for N51/N52, pre-LCI/LCI.

All N52/N51s have a 6 bolt crank, and no the N52 is not the successor to the N51. The N51 is just a variant of the same engine platform (NG6 - including the N53, N54, and N55). Other than the compression ratio and emissions equipment it's identical to the N52.

[RuinE90d]

Checking in after a year of DD on the Valeo SMF kit.

All performance is well except the pilot bearing is making noise. The Valeo PB is different than others I've seen. Notice there's no inner bearing race and not the best shields over the grease and rollers. So there's potential to expose it to clutch dust and other elements. I don't recall that style on any other clutch I ever installed.

I would encourage anyone installing this kit to replace the included PB before install. I may be disassembling my car again to do just that.

[TDF9]

FWIW, I replaced my DMF with the Valeo SMF kit about 3 months ago / 3k miles ago (2006 325i w/ 200k miles), and have just begun to notice what I assume is pilot bearing noise. (Rattle at idle, goes away the minute i depress the clutch).

I did not know to replace the pilot bearing guide (is that what it's called - the elongated metal sleeve over the transmission input shaft bearing), so perhaps that's part of the issue.

I've also had clutch "chatter" beginning immediately after reassembly, that has slowly gotten worse. Initially it was intermittent, and only consistently noticeable in reverse. But car just sat for several days, and now that I'm driving it again it's much worse. Curious if anyone who's done SMF conversion has had had any similar issues?

[ktm137]

Interesting - I have yet to install my SMF kit - does the OEM pilot bearing work in the SMF Valeo flywheel?

I recall reading that the supplied Valeo throwout bearing isn't the greatest, and have considered getting a better one for the install.

Originally Posted by RuinE90d

Checking in after a year of DD on the Valeo SMF kit.

All performance is well except the pilot bearing is making noise. The Valeo PB is different than others I've seen. Notice there's no inner bearing race and not the best shields over the grease and rollers. So there's potential to expose it to clutch dust and other elements. I don't recall that style on any other clutch I ever installed.

I would encourage anyone installing this kit to replace the included PB before install. I may be disassembling my car again to do just that.

[Bufalo]

Mine does the same thing, installed in in October. I wouldn't think that the pilot bearing would be the culprit, as when the clutch is released the flywheel and input shaft would be turning at the same speed - thus there would be no spinning of the pilot bearing in that situation. Heck the bearing doesn't start spinning until you push in the clutch pedal and the transmission input shaft stops rotating.

I just think it's extra noise in the transmission - I added solid shifter bushings and firmer transmission mounts and (disappointing) royal purple synchromax fluid. The whole thing is noisier, but I don't necessarily attribute it to the solid flywheel and clutch conversion.