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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Brake, DSC, ABS, tire pressure yellow warning lights



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      01-21-2018, 02:01 PM   #1
arkie6
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Brake, DSC, ABS, tire pressure yellow warning lights

I have a 2008 335i that I parked outside for about 3 weeks recently. Upon starting the car on a pretty cold day to move it into my shop to do some work on it, it barely turned over, but it did start and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. I had yellow warning lights for brake, DSC, ABS, and tire pressure in yellow. My time and date reset to zero also.

I moved the car into the shop to do some long overdue maintenance and put the battery on the charger. The battery was replaced a year or so ago and recharged fine. During the maintenance I had to remove the battery negative cable for extended time periods. Anyway, after I finished up with the maintenance, the yellow warning lights persist. Battery voltage is normal at ~12.6 volts engine off, ~14.5 volts with engine running. I found a youtube video showing that for these warning lights being triggered by a low battery you just need to rotate the steering wheel full left, then full right with the engine running to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. I've done this multiple times and driven the car at least 20 miles with no effect on the warning lights.

Also, my cruise control is non-functional and when I try to reset my tire pressure system it says it is inactive.

My headlights do track with the steering wheel position and my turn signals cancel after completing a turn, so the car is getting input from the steering angle sensor.

Also, I had my wheels off and visually inspected all of the cables and sensors for the ABS system at the wheels and everything appears to be intact and in good condition. Based on the coincidence of these warning lights coming on with the low battery condition, I have to believe it is related to that, but I can't figure out how to reset them.

Is there something I'm missing? Any help would be appreciated.

I do have an OBDII to USB BMW DCAN cable on order and hope to get the cable and BMW tools software up and running in the next week or so and I believe that I can pull any stored codes for the ABS system with that to figure out what is causing this issue.
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      01-21-2018, 03:40 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
I have a 2008 335i that I parked outside for about 3 weeks recently. Upon starting the car on a pretty cold day to move it into my shop to do some work on it, it barely turned over, but it did start and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. I had yellow warning lights for brake, DSC, ABS, and tire pressure in yellow. My time and date reset to zero also.

I moved the car into the shop to do some long overdue maintenance and put the battery on the charger. The battery was replaced a year or so ago and recharged fine. During the maintenance I had to remove the battery negative cable for extended time periods. Anyway, after I finished up with the maintenance, the yellow warning lights persist. Battery voltage is normal at ~12.6 volts engine off, ~14.5 volts with engine running. I found a youtube video showing that for these warning lights being triggered by a low battery you just need to rotate the steering wheel full left, then full right with the engine running to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. I've done this multiple times and driven the car at least 20 miles with no effect on the warning lights.

Also, my cruise control is non-functional and when I try to reset my tire pressure system it says it is inactive.

My headlights do track with the steering wheel position and my turn signals cancel after completing a turn, so the car is getting input from the steering angle sensor.

Also, I had my wheels off and visually inspected all of the cables and sensors for the ABS system at the wheels and everything appears to be intact and in good condition. Based on the coincidence of these warning lights coming on with the low battery condition, I have to believe it is related to that, but I can't figure out how to reset them.

Is there something I'm missing? Any help would be appreciated.

I do have an OBDII to USB BMW DCAN cable on order and hope to get the cable and BMW tools software up and running in the next week or so and I believe that I can pull any stored codes for the ABS system with that to figure out what is causing this issue.
Cruise control wont work when the traction control light is on. What codes are you getting? Sounds like you already tried to reset your steering angle sensor.
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      01-21-2018, 04:07 PM   #3
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I have a generic code reader for OBDII emissions related codes, but I don't have a code reader for BMW modules such as the ABS / DSC system. I have a BMW INPA cable on order and plan to load up the BMW INPA and related software on my laptop when I get the cable. Am I correct in assuming that I can then read any codes associated with the ABS system then?
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      01-21-2018, 09:56 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
I have a generic code reader for OBDII emissions related codes, but I don't have a code reader for BMW modules such as the ABS / DSC system. I have a BMW INPA cable on order and plan to load up the BMW INPA and related software on my laptop when I get the cable. Am I correct in assuming that I can then read any codes associated with the ABS system then?
You are correct
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      01-22-2018, 11:41 AM   #5
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New info today. I got a pending OBDII code P0503 Vehicle speed sensor "A" intermittent / erratic / high on my way to work this morning. A google search for this code and 335i found this "The right rear wheel speed sensor is the vehicle speed sensor when it comes to this code." I'm still waiting on my diagnostic cable and software, but can anyone confirm that vehicle speed sensor "A" is on the right rear wheel? I'm assuming this is also the ABS sensor.
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      01-26-2018, 10:54 PM   #6
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Well, I'm pretty sure I found my problem. I put the car in the shop this afternoon and pulled the right rear wheel and then pulled the wheel well liner. I had a big mouse nest on top of the liner and all of my wires above the liner had been chewed in two - the ABS sensor wires, the brake pad sensor wires, and the wires to some black box in the fender behind the wheel. I've got some wire splicing to do now. The mouse must have gotten in there when I had parked out in front of my shop. This is a heavily wooded area with lots of oak trees and there were a bunch of acorns in there as well.
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      01-26-2018, 11:13 PM   #7
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And I just checked to see where my OBDII / USB cable is and it is in Nashville, TN. It was supposed to have been here this week. WTF. This was shipped from Arizona. I'm in Arkansas. It went past Arkansas to Kentucky and is now in Tennessee. Thanks USPS. I think I'll be able to get this fixed tomorrow unless there are some codes I will have to reset. I really hate not having my cruise control.
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      01-28-2018, 11:23 PM   #8
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I got the wires spliced back together on everything except the brake pad sensor. The actual brake pad sensor lead was chewed in two and those wires are tiny and tightly embedded in the that molded sensor lead cable. The codes for ABS and DSC cleared immediately when the car was started. After resetting the tire pressure monitor and driving a mile or so, the tire pressure sensor warning also reset. Cruise control works now also. The only thing left is the yellow Brake indicator. I tried resetting that, but it won't reset with a faulty pad sensor. A new sensor is ~$10 on Amazon and will be ordered once I get enough in my cart for free shipping.
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      02-05-2018, 12:10 AM   #9
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I got my new brake pad sensor installed today, reset the rear brake service reminder, and all dash lights are now clear. All of this because of a danged mouse. At least it didn't cost much other than some time.
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      08-20-2018, 05:11 AM   #10
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Hi, I'm having the same problem as you , was your RPM and temperature gauge not working aswell ? Many thanks
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      08-20-2018, 06:24 AM   #11
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No, my RPM and temperature gauge worked fine.

Have you checked your battery voltage and charging system voltage?
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      08-20-2018, 03:44 PM   #12
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Hi my battery voltage is 12.3v not checked it running yet, im trying to charge the batt now but it struggling to get it pass the first bar on the battery charger.

It had a new battery fitted 4 years ago so i'm thinking it could be the batt.

Thanks for the replay
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      08-21-2018, 09:56 PM   #13
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Did you swap the steering wheel by any chance or remove it? If so you need to recalibrate via tool32 then clear errors via inpa. The left right thing I've never had work.
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      08-22-2018, 01:25 PM   #14
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Battery voltage 15V when car running

No not had the steering wheel off mate, all the warning lights came on when i was driving about 30mph and not been off since.

Been to BMW for the two recalls but made no different, now booked in at BMW to try and find out whats wrong, at £90 per hout hope they are quick.
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      08-24-2018, 10:06 AM   #15
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That's high
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      08-24-2018, 10:06 PM   #16
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Then it is probably your steering angle sensor. It wither needs to be cleaned in accordance to the my 2 cents diy or needs replacing. When you get those 4 lights and cruise doesn't work it's msot likely shot. Have you hooked up the car to inpa to see what codes are popping up?

I know people have said battery. Speed sensor on front wheels, etc. But I bet you it's the steering angle sensor behind the steering wheel.
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      09-01-2018, 11:21 AM   #17
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BMW have said its a faulty ECU and it needs replacing at a cost of £1400. They have ordered one from Germany and will be getting fitted in 2 weeks when i'm back from the states.
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      09-23-2018, 04:21 PM   #18
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Possible low voltage issue?

Hi I was checking out a bmw 335i 2008 convertible that I wanted to buy. I got it inspected and th emchanic said that there were an abnormal amount of fault codes appearing such as abs, dsc, airbag, brake pads, and fuel pump codes. He erased the codes and checked again and nothing came back. He thinks it might have been fue to low voltage previously from maybe the battery and such causing wrong error codes. The car drives fine and everything seems to work. What is your take on this, also would it take some time before the fault codes came back if they are an actual issue?
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      11-24-2018, 04:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ob23 View Post
Hi I was checking out a bmw 335i 2008 convertible that I wanted to buy. I got it inspected and th emchanic said that there were an abnormal amount of fault codes appearing such as abs, dsc, airbag, brake pads, and fuel pump codes. He erased the codes and checked again and nothing came back. He thinks it might have been fue to low voltage previously from maybe the battery and such causing wrong error codes. The car drives fine and everything seems to work. What is your take on this, also would it take some time before the fault codes came back if they are an actual issue?
Run the other way my friend unless you have a warranty. At least one of those 3rd party insurances on mechanical issues. I have been fighting this problem for over 2 months. Speed sensors, new battery(registered & coded), new alternator, ibs sensor, steering wheel cluster, checked the red cable to the fuse panel, etc etc etc and still no tranny out of limp mode, no working gauges, no buttons on my sport steering wheel, “Trifecta” lights on, and can’t communicate with the DME with my Foxwell NT520 Or Carly unless I unplug the DSC(recently found this out) so I’m now at the crossroad of buying a new DSC or a used one which I will have to code..... just sharing my experience with you to let you know these cars are extremely fun but if you buy one with no knowledge of how it has been kept by the previous owner(s), you are taking a huge gamble.

Ps: if you decide to buy, get you a good set of torx sockets, extra set of spark plugs, a couple of extra coil packs, and the all important INPA software. Hmm. I should make a N54 “Starter Kit”. Sorry I’m being so negative right now, just a frustrated 1st time Bmw buyer turned BMW pro the hard way.....
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      12-09-2018, 11:53 AM   #20
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Guys i need your help as i am loosing my mind at the moment. I had dsc light on aswell hanbrake light on, went to bmw dealership , they have done full diagnostic and it did come with 005df0 and 005df1. Its hydraulic unit ump motor,and pump motor connectir faulty, so i went to my local garage . Mechanic have done his diagnostic and find out that rear left abs sensor doesnt read wheel speed, so he have changed, abs sensor, then driveshaft abs ring , also adjusted handbrake. So after deleting faults was no lights on the dash then later on it come up again, he started driving when doing 40mph rear left wheel shows only 12mph when other three shows 40. And he is saying that need change dsc unit. So i did a long research that it could be actual motor, so i took it apart found one brush was stuck and not moving, so i fixed it put back everything together. The bleeded brakes(only one front wheel and one back wheel. I thought after watching video only two needed bleeding my bad) so the codes is still on. Was driving car it drives fine just the lights still on.. 5 hours later started car and it started rattle the engine its seem one cylinder missfiring. Called a friend from garage he have done diagnostic and now its also showing 5th cylinder missfire( i know it could be of dsc unit) the says dsc need recalibration, also shows same avs sensor which been changed does not shows speed. Please advise me what i should do. Also to mention battery doesnt last long, but its charged every two weeks. Car wasnt in use for past 10 months. I really appreciate if somebody could help me. Car is going to garage again. Never had problems with it owning car for 6 years.bmw e92 325i
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      12-19-2018, 12:40 PM   #21
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I am getting similar error messages intermittently. It has shown twice within two days but once the car is turned off, the codes seem to disappear.

My car has been parked in the garage for the past 4 months however.

After reading the comments here, I am under the impression that it may be the battery? I don't have any start up issues but the warning light does show up saying there is 'increased battery discharge'

I don't exactly have a battery charger to hand; am I right in believing that over longer periods of driving, the battery will recharge itself via the alternator? This will allow me to ignore the intermittent lights for now; as I can notice absolutely no difference in the drive what so ever.

Also, has anyone experienced this issue after fitting lowering springs? As I fitted my springs this weekend. I know that some of the wires (ABS) runs through the wheel wells, but I was especially careful of these wires so I am quite sure I didn't damage the wires; but maybe the sensors act differently due to the car being lowered
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