[Master_Chase]

I have a mostly stock 2011 335d and I was wondering what are the best/recommended mods to do before tuning? Currently only have a CCV filter, Koni suspension and fluidampr.

Planning on doing an ABC delete soon and would like to do everything then.

[335dlci]

Maintenance

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

Maintenance

Pretty good on maintenance While the car is up I'll do a transmission fluid and filter change again and replace some of the solenoids because sometimes it shifts slow.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by Master_Chase

Pretty good on maintenance While the car is up I'll do a transmission fluid and filter change again and replace some of the solenoids because sometimes it shifts slow.

And all the other maintenance. Your lack of info is just making me blurt things out.

[whyzee125]

335d maintenance and mods tend to be fairly standard. Swirl flap delete, egr delete, dpf delete, tune, VCG, trans service, suspension bushings, harmonic balancer, FMIC

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

And all the other maintenance. Your lack of info is just making me blurt things out.

I do a good job with standard maintenance filters, oil, coolant, power steering, brakes, transmission, belts, etc. Other than carbon build up and the harmonic balancer this car has been amazingly trouble free. Most of my wrenching/modding knowledge is on 3/4 ton Powerstrokes/Cummins and TJ Jeeps, info on those is also much easier to come by.

I can't find too many mods people recommend by searching but I have seen a couple mentioned in some peoples signatures higher rail sensors 2200 bar and higher boost sensors but searching for them doesn't show much.

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

335d maintenance and mods tend to be fairly standard. Swirl flap delete, egr delete, dpf delete, tune, VCG, trans service, suspension bushings, harmonic balancer, FMIC

Thank you for the info most of that has been done I forgot I did the swirl flaps during the carbon cleaning. I need to look into tuning a bit more but I'm probably going to go with BRR, I wish there was a good device to tune with so swapping was easier like SCT or EFILive.

[BB_cuda]

whyzee125 mentioned the notable VCG.

Here is why you should address. You will be pushing more boost pressure from tune. The VCG seals the intake boost from crank case at those upper smaller runner locations. More boost means those guys are loaded more from differential pressure standpoint. Lose one or more of these seals and you start blowing oil out front or rear main seals. Where ever is weakest point.

Don't know your total miles but if >100,000 I suggest VCG before you increase your boost P. I did mine at 77,xxx because rear main had started weeping. I've been deleted since 32,000 miles ~July 2014. Yes, I've only driven 45,000 miles in 7.5 years but lots of romps at elevated boost. No more rear main leak now.

Notable mention: Change your vacuum lines while you have all of the VC off. Excellent opportunity. I was overdue here as mine were crusty.

Notable mention #2: Change the 2 oil lines feeding to HP and LP turbos from distribution block.

[lnxguy]

Along with vac lines replace both pressure convertors and the EV valve that controls the compressor bypass while you're in there.

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

whyzee125 mentioned the notable VCG.

Here is why you should address. You will be pushing more boost pressure from tune. The VCG seals the intake boost from crank case at those upper smaller runner locations. More boost means those guys are loaded more from differential pressure standpoint. Lose one or more of these seals and you start blowing oil out front or rear main seals. Where ever is weakest point.

Don't know your total miles but if >100,000 I suggest VCG before you increase your boost P. I did mine at 77,xxx because rear main had started weeping. I've been deleted since 32,000 miles ~July 2014. Yes, I've only driven 45,000 miles in 7.5 years but lots of romps at elevated boost. No more rear main leak now.

Notable mention: Change your vacuum lines while you have all of the VC off. Excellent opportunity. I was overdue here as mine were crusty.

Notable mention #2: Change the 2 oil lines feeding to HP and LP turbos from distribution block.

I will definitely do the VCG as the car is approaching 150K and probably the oil lines as well

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Along with vac lines replace both pressure convertors and the EV valve that controls the compressor bypass while you're in there.

Thank you I'll look into those.

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by Master_Chase

I do a good job with standard maintenance filters, oil, coolant, power steering, brakes, transmission, belts, etc. Other than carbon build up and the harmonic balancer this car has been amazingly trouble free. Most of my wrenching/modding knowledge is on 3/4 ton Powerstrokes/Cummins and TJ Jeeps, info on those is also much easier to come by.

I can't find too many mods people recommend by searching but I have seen a couple mentioned in some peoples signatures higher rail sensors 2200 bar and higher boost sensors but searching for them doesn't show much.

I'd your interested in purchasing a higher bar fuel rail pressure sensor or map sensor let me know and I can point you in the right direction.

[Chief Orman]

Ohlins

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by Chief Orman

Ohlins

Definitely if you want to rebuild your suspension every 20-30k lol.

[Master_Chase]

The suspension was replaced last year with Koni Special Actives

[RED-d]

Originally Posted by Master_Chase

The suspension was replaced last year with Koni Special Actives

How do you like those? My 150k mile Sport suspension was better. Feel like wasted money. And that's with M3 front control arms as well.

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by RED-d

How do you like those? My 150k mile Sport suspension was better. Feel like wasted money. And that's with M3 front control arms as well.

I had the non sport suspension and it was shot so the koni's feel way better no more hitting the bump stops.

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Along with vac lines replace both pressure convertors and the EV valve that controls the compressor bypass while you're in there.

Do you know the part number to the EV valve?

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by master_chase

do you know the part number to the ev valve?

11747810831

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

11747810831

Thank you

[Tomnavigator]

Master_Chase - I don't see when you last did a carbon clean. I would do a carbon clean when you do your deletes so everything starts out clean. With the EGR delete you stop future carbon build up. But you need to start out with everything clean for maximum effect.

[Master_Chase]

Originally Posted by Tomnavigator

Master_Chase - I don't see when you last did a carbon clean. I would do a carbon clean when you do your deletes so everything starts out clean. With the EGR delete you stop future carbon build up. But you need to start out with everything clean for maximum effect.

Already been done and should never need to do it again.

[Tomnavigator]

I would also replace water pump, thermostat, belts and hoses.