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      11-09-2015, 07:01 PM   #1
snayko
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DIY - automatic transmission ZF 6HP19-21 solenoids replacement

DIY automatic transmission solenoids replacement (ZF 6HP19-21 applications)

Technically everything is described here:
a) valve body replacement
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf
b) solenoids replacement
http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/So...structions.pdf

But for those who cares about details:

1) Let the car to cool down a bit if it's hot. It is always better to have cold transmission oil on your head and on your shoulders
than hot.

2) Meanwhile reset your transmission adaptations by means of DIS or some other software e.g ISTA.
And yes, it says to reset before solenoid replacement - not after!, though I don't see any fundamental difference.

3) Put the car into parking mode and lift the car.
Technically it's possible to do the job with the car on jack stands but I used normal car lift(I'm not a masochist )

4) Remove transmission oil pan shield

5) Unscrew drain plug and drain the oil. It's about 6-7 liters. You can catch the oil and reuse it if you recently did transmission oil change
and that didn't help you (lots of people start with tranny oil change e.g. me )

5) Unscrew oil pan/filter and remove it. Be careful cause it's gonna be a little bit more oil inside the pan.
And prepare some pan under the transmission to catch dripping fluid from your mechatronics valve body.
Wait a little bit until fluid stops dripping or dripping very slowly.

6) Then you'll see this picture. In red circles bolts that you need to unscrew in order to remove mechatronic unit.

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But before that you have to do this:

7) Unlock and disconnect the vehicle connector from the transmission (See picture)

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Pull the sealing sleeve locking mechanism to the unlocked position.
The locking tab is located on the bottom of the mechatronic below
the sealing sleeve

8) NOw you are ready to unscrew all 10 bolts that hold mechatronics unit.
See picture. Unscrew all of them and leave 2 (one from each side to just to hold the unit)
Slightly release these 2 bolts so they still holding the unit and be ready to catch dripping fluid.
It's gonna be 1-2 more liters Wait until it's dripping ocasionally.

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9) Now you will need helper. cause you need someone to hold the unit while you are releasing those 2 bolts. Cause once you release
them the unit's gonna fall down. The unit itself can be hot so it's better to use some lint free clothes to hold the valve body.

Once valve body is released See instructions on how to replace solenoids.

http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/So...structions.pdf

Sorry guys it's a first draft. Will edit later to make more clear and to include your proposals.
Attached Images
  

Last edited by snayko; 11-09-2015 at 07:21 PM..
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      11-11-2015, 01:09 PM   #2
ferocity02
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Why did you change the solenoids?

Did you notice any improvements by doing so?

I've been thinking about replacing all of mine along with the seal in your attached picture. And install the Sonnax Zip Kit at the same time. My shifts are sloppy and inconsistent.
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      11-13-2015, 03:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Why did you change the solenoids?
I had a hard jolt after each stop. When you tranny was shifting from 2and to 1st. I was able to reproduce that even in manual mode. So shifts 2-1 and 1-2 were terrible, felt like a truck crashed into your trunk each time when you stop
First I thought that it was my GUIBO(Driveshaft flex disk) but that wasn't the case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Did you notice any improvements by doing so?
Yes, the problem is gone.
Shifting in general is smoother a bit I would say, but it's always the case after adaptations reset
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      11-10-2017, 06:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snayko View Post
Yes, the problem is gone.
Shifting in general is smoother a bit I would say, but it's always the case after adaptations reset
Surprised this post died 2 years ago, hmm..

Anyways, thanks for this write-up bro, I'm tackling this job next weekend..!
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      11-10-2017, 02:25 PM   #5
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1318219

I'm adding this DIY as another reference.
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      11-10-2017, 04:38 PM   #6
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Thanks, looking to do the Zip kit soon and this should help out.
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      11-14-2017, 08:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1318219

I'm adding this DIY as another reference.
How would you describe that RPM flutter you mention..?? I'm thinking about doing the valvebody solenoid replacement on mine as when I upshift from 3rd to 4th, it does a brief "jolt" forward before settling into the normal RPM range when upshifting.. All other gears are smooth shifting, and i have no issues on downshifting, this only happens when going from 3rd to 4th.. Think it's those solenoids that are causing my issue..?? I've drained, flushed, and replaced the trans pan/filter & fluid just recently and that made no difference in my issue.. I reset trans adaptations and it actually got way more noticeable, so I'm hoping the solenoids are my fix..
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      11-14-2017, 09:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1318219

I'm adding this DIY as another reference.
How would you describe that RPM flutter you mention..?? I'm thinking about doing the valvebody solenoid replacement on mine as when I upshift from 3rd to 4th, it does a brief "jolt" forward before settling into the normal RPM range when upshifting.. All other gears are smooth shifting, and i have no issues on downshifting, this only happens when going from 3rd to 4th.. Think it's those solenoids that are causing my issue..?? I've drained, flushed, and replaced the trans pan/filter & fluid just recently and that made no difference in my issue.. I reset trans adaptations and it actually got way more noticeable, so I'm hoping the solenoids are my fix..
In 2nd and 3rd gear around the 1500 RPM mark, the engine RPM would swing (flutter) 200RPM. But only at the 1500 RPM mark. My thought process of the issue was the solenoid was not maintaining the proper clamping pressure for the clutches at that RPM.
The car is running solid since then.
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      11-15-2017, 06:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1318219

I'm adding this DIY as another reference.
How would you describe that RPM flutter you mention..?? I'm thinking about doing the valvebody solenoid replacement on mine as when I upshift from 3rd to 4th, it does a brief "jolt" forward before settling into the normal RPM range when upshifting.. All other gears are smooth shifting, and i have no issues on downshifting, this only happens when going from 3rd to 4th.. Think it's those solenoids that are causing my issue..?? I've drained, flushed, and replaced the trans pan/filter & fluid just recently and that made no difference in my issue.. I reset trans adaptations and it actually got way more noticeable, so I'm hoping the solenoids are my fix..
In 2nd and 3rd gear around the 1500 RPM mark, the engine RPM would swing (flutter) 200RPM. But only at the 1500 RPM mark. My thought process of the issue was the solenoid was not maintaining the proper clamping pressure for the clutches at that RPM.
The car is running solid since then.
Ahh I see.. So it seems (at least my speculation) is that when these solenoids go bad, they illustrate many different symptoms.. Some mention a jolting/jerking upshift, some have said it was a jerky downshift, a few mentioned fluttering rpm's, etc..
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      03-20-2018, 01:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
In 2nd and 3rd gear around the 1500 RPM mark, the engine RPM would swing (flutter) 200RPM. But only at the 1500 RPM mark. My thought process of the issue was the solenoid was not maintaining the proper clamping pressure for the clutches at that RPM.
The car is running solid since then.
Do you change the solenoids?
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      03-20-2018, 01:27 AM   #11
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I have the same problem, I just thinking to change Mechatronic Seal Adapter ,
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      03-20-2018, 08:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodolfo soto View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
In 2nd and 3rd gear around the 1500 RPM mark, the engine RPM would swing (flutter) 200RPM. But only at the 1500 RPM mark. My thought process of the issue was the solenoid was not maintaining the proper clamping pressure for the clutches at that RPM.
The car is running solid since then.
Do you change the solenoids?
Yes. See my DIY in the above postings.
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      03-28-2018, 08:52 PM   #13
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Is this relatively easy? My car is acting funny, when I started the car and shifted into R it would not move, so I switched it into D and it still would not move. I put it in P and shut the car down. Now the car won't start and the key fob is stuck. I ran my scanner and came back with the following code:

P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck on Circuit.

So I'm assuming I need to replace the Shift Solenoid? Is this something I can do or should I have the dealer do it? I'm fairly mechanically inclined. This is on a 2007 328xi Sports Wagon.

Thanks for the guide!
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      03-29-2018, 07:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrimann View Post
Is this relatively easy? My car is acting funny, when I started the car and shifted into R it would not move, so I switched it into D and it still would not move. I put it in P and shut the car down. Now the car won't start and the key fob is stuck. I ran my scanner and came back with the following code:

P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck on Circuit.

So I'm assuming I need to replace the Shift Solenoid? Is this something I can do or should I have the dealer do it? I'm fairly mechanically inclined. This is on a 2007 328xi Sports Wagon.

Thanks for the guide!
The DIY isn't hard but time consuming and maintaining continuity of parts when disassembling and reassembly.
For the 328, I believe that transmission is a GM manufacturer and not a ZF. I have no idea what the GM transmission mechatronic looks like.

The dealer won't touch the mechatronic. Though, I believe they would replace the transmission.
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      03-29-2018, 10:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
The DIY isn't hard but time consuming and maintaining continuity of parts when disassembling and reassembly.
For the 328, I believe that transmission is a GM manufacturer and not a ZF. I have no idea what the GM transmission mechatronic looks like.

The dealer won't touch the mechatronic. Though, I believe they would replace the transmission.

I think you just guided me in the right direction. I found this post after researching my issues:

https://blog.bavauto.com/16677/bmw-a...2-e83-ga6l45r/

My fear is that if I take it to the dealer they are going to tell me to replace the tranny when in all reality its just the selector rod. What are your thoughts on this? Could I possible get the P0752 Shift Solonod A error because the Selector Valve Rod is broken?
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      03-31-2018, 01:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrimann View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
The DIY isn't hard but time consuming and maintaining continuity of parts when disassembling and reassembly.
For the 328, I believe that transmission is a GM manufacturer and not a ZF. I have no idea what the GM transmission mechatronic looks like.

The dealer won't touch the mechatronic. Though, I believe they would replace the transmission.

I think you just guided me in the right direction. I found this post after researching my issues:

https://blog.bavauto.com/16677/bmw-a...2-e83-ga6l45r/

My fear is that if I take it to the dealer they are going to tell me to replace the tranny when in all reality its just the selector rod. What are your thoughts on this? Could I possible get the P0752 Shift Solonod A error because the Selector Valve Rod is broken?
I think you are correct. I believe the transmission is not aligned with the ordered gear by the lever. However, I wonder if it makes sense to replace that solenoid just in case....?
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      08-25-2018, 10:26 AM   #17
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Hey just wondering how the reset through ISTA goes. Any guide on how to use the ISTA?
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      11-06-2018, 09:42 PM   #18
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Would a bad solenoid in the mechatronics unit throw a code? I feel like i have this exact problem that nobody can seem to figure out but no SES light.
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      11-06-2018, 10:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snayko View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Why did you change the solenoids?
I had a hard jolt after each stop. When you tranny was shifting from 2and to 1st. I was able to reproduce that even in manual mode. So shifts 2-1 and 1-2 were terrible, felt like a truck crashed into your trunk each time when you stop
First I thought that it was my GUIBO(Driveshaft flex disk) but that wasn't the case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Did you notice any improvements by doing so?
Yes, the problem is gone.
Shifting in general is smoother a bit I would say, but it's always the case after adaptations reset
Would you say this is due to solenoids? Im having a hard jolt after accelerating after complete stops. Heres the video

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      11-07-2018, 11:28 AM   #20
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DCT is a different beast
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      05-04-2019, 09:35 PM   #21
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So you’re supposed to reset the adaptation settings before removing the solenoids right? So what are you supposed to do if they were cleared after??

After I replaced the solenoids and seals, I realized I didn’t clear the adaptation settings! Has anyone had this issue? If so, is there a procedure to fix this and does anyone have any recommendations?
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      05-08-2019, 09:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramosc40 View Post
So you're supposed to reset the adaptation settings before removing the solenoids right? So what are you supposed to do if they were cleared after??

After I replaced the solenoids and seals, I realized I didn't clear the adaptation settings! Has anyone had this issue? If so, is there a procedure to fix this and does anyone have any recommendations?
You will be fine resetting them afterwards. I did the same thing with no issues.
Cheers!
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