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Alpine retrokit
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12-31-2019, 04:25 PM | #1 |
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Alpine retrokit
Hi I've got a base stereo with the business ccc idrive if I was to fit the apline kit would I need to code my head unit any help much appreciated
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01-01-2020, 04:34 AM | #2 |
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Would you need to code it? No. There is a switch on the bottom of the retrofit amp for the two types of output from the stereo. Could it help if you recoded to hifi output? Yes or No.
can you recode the CCC deck to hifi? Not sure as my experience is with cic and professional radios, but I think it is possible.
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2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-19-2020, 02:04 AM | #4 |
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I think it would drop your signal voltage too low.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-19-2020, 07:47 AM | #6 |
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Yes, if you find that it is needed due to distortion.
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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01-20-2020, 03:37 PM | #7 |
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I had the alpine kit in my 335i back when it first came out. That was CCC.
It distorted badly with the switch one way and not quite as badly the other way. It was a pretty pants upgrade too imho. I took it out and got a small Blaupunkt amp some little Focal speakers and pair of Earthquakes (only option back then) it was around the same price and sounded so much better. A mate of mine used one of those tiny power pack amps that daisy chain into the back of the head unit, directly into the quadlock. To be fair that was really impressive, he already had it and just thhought he would try it out before upgrading properly, he never felt the need to take it further. It was a Pioneer or Alpine from memory, cost about £120. |
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01-22-2020, 10:35 AM | #8 |
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I've been through a couple of options with mine. When I bought it, it already had the Alpine upgrade in and it wasn't coded to HiFi. Still sounded really god and no issues with distortion or anything.
I then upgraded to Gladen 3 way setup but still using the Alpine upgrade amp and wiring. This was a slight improvement with the better underseat subs and proper crossover. Then went DLS mids and highs (MB Quart underseat subs) and a JL amp with 2 Orion 10's in the boot. Now that is a superb upgrade. All run off the stock CIC unit up front and still coded as base
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01-25-2020, 11:52 AM | #9 |
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I've fitted the alpine kit today, I've followed the alpine guide but for some reason it's plays fine then it starts crackling noise from the speakers it I take the i line fuse out near the battery the the noise goes and it works fine any one had same problem will it be OK to leave the fuse out
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01-25-2020, 02:15 PM | #10 |
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What fuse?
From the Alpine kit? If you have taken the fuse out how is it getting power? You sure you you haven't got the 12v and 12v switched the wrong way round? Been 10 years since I did it so can't even remember if there is a 12v switched or not? But how can it be powering if you have removed the fuse, ie broken the connection? |
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01-25-2020, 02:26 PM | #11 |
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Hi thanks for the reply yeah their is a fuse in the power lead to the battery it still works If I take it out but I've noticed now if you turn the stereo up it crackles them the sound cuts out
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01-25-2020, 05:02 PM | #12 |
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From memory was there 2 positives?
One to the battery direct and another to a block behind the liner? I can't remember why that is. Have you coded the head unit to hifi? Have you tried the switch both ways? |
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01-25-2020, 05:08 PM | #13 |
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Also, was there some issue with the labelling on the wiring.
I think the labels on the speaker harness which said radio and tweeter were the wrong way round, or something like that. Did you copy the install diagrams and ignore any labels? On the speaker cable I mean. |
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01-25-2020, 05:15 PM | #14 |
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Just looked at the instructions.
There is a 12v going to battery and the brown wire goes to that earth post. There is no 12v switched, it turns on via sensing input from the speaker terminals. There is no way that amp should be running with the fuse removed. Something is not right. I would be wary of using it any more until you find out what is wrong. |
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01-26-2020, 12:46 AM | #15 |
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These are the existing wiring harnesses and what I've done is connected the 3 alpine wires (I've followed a wiring diagram) together and crimped them onto the harness and then the same with the other one or do they need to be crimped individually
Last edited by mikeywarduk; 01-26-2020 at 12:58 AM.. |
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01-26-2020, 04:20 AM | #16 |
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Sorry, I don't understand what you mean.
I was talking about the speaker harness in the door. But anyway, that is not you issue. The fact is, you are removing the fuse from the positive cable and the amp is playing. Actually, is it playing at all? Maybe you have crimped it all wrong. Maybe the head unit is running the speakers still and you have just crimped loads of stuff together.....wrong. Do the following to test. Unplug the harness from the amp. Play your radio. Can you hear the door speakers or subs? If so you have wired it incorrectly. Be careful, you could fry you speakers and your head unit if you play it too long or too loud. |
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01-26-2020, 05:15 AM | #18 |
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No idea from those photos.
Please do what I say, otherwise I can't help you. Unplug the speaker connector from the amp. Can you still hear you speakers working? |
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01-26-2020, 05:58 AM | #19 |
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Installation Instructions.
Alpine Hi-Fi System Retrofit BMW 1 Series (E81, E82, E87, E88)BMW 3 Series (E90, E91, E92, E93) https://1drv.ms/b/s!ApTXN2OB77W_iY8lwjfAJH9R8WuRUg
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Help yourself Software part II, read post 1 : https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...7#post27890067
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01-26-2020, 06:15 AM | #20 |
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I think we have the instructions.
What I am trying to get at is this... If you remove the fuse for the amp there should be no sound. Therefor let's unplug the amp and see what happens. If there is still sound then we know the wires from the harness have been crimped incorrectly. By that I mean I think he has crimped the wires from the head unit to the wires going into the amp and also going into the speakers and/or sub as well. So he is basically hooking two amps up to a pair of speakers and turning them on together, when pulling the fuse it is taking the amp out of the equation (sort of, it is still wired up wrong) hence it sounds better. There should be the wires crimped from head unit to amp. Wires crimped from amp to door speakers. Wires from amp to subwoofers. |
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