[carl_d]

YES, I have the same issue.

Dealer looking over on Nov 9th. Will update after. I think its the rack or bushes.

Make sure your KDS is okay (BTW avoid older KDS machines and ensure its a Hunter machine, older Beissbarth machines are very often out of calibration)

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by LemonD

Anyone know how difficult / involved it is to change the steering rack on 330i E90 auto? Would I have to drop the subframe? Gulp.

It looks like this is my problem, not trackrod ends, not suspension bushes and not column - they are all tight - not much else left... Can't yet check the inner trackrod ends (I will) but probably unlikely.

Thanks CharleyBrown, that is just what I did with a friend. Nice and clear pic!

no you dont need to remove or drop your subframe, but its not likely the actual rack, more likely the tie rod ends

[prototyp]

Anyone have any progress on diagnosing this issue?

My early-build e90 has a good 3/8" of free play in the steering wheel. I checked all joints down to the rack, they move solidly together with the wheel. In this "free" zone, there is no movement at all coming out of the rack itself (tie-rods are stationary). I would expect there to be some mechanical feel from the wheel if it were actually moving the rack even slightly, but there is none... just pure free space. This suggests that the gearing inside the rack is worn or loose. Is there a lash adjustment for the active steer racks?

[JRINNS]

Same steering feel here in my e90 06 . I presume its down to the 110000 miles i have done. Might take it for an alignment and. Checkup

[fnckr]

Someone on this board was able to cure this issue and the click sound in the steering column. I believe there was a TSB for it and he also quoted the exact part number. I'm looking for the post. It may have been in the Naturally Aspirated section. If someone finds it please post it here.

OK, I found it. Check this thread http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...teering+column

[prototyp]

Follow up. I fixed my 'loose' steering issue! Here's what I found, and how to fix it... hope it might help someone here.

The culprit in my case was the lower steering joint clamp bolt. It was just slack enough to allow some slop between the steering shaft and the steering box input shaft... this was felt at the steering wheel as about 3/8" of free play. (The steering wheel is effectively a lever, so a little axial wiggle at the input shaft feels like a big movement at the wheel)





If you've got an hour, some tools, and mechanical acuity it's a simple thing to look into.

Investigating and addressing the issue requires removing the cowl panel (there's a DIY here for that little job). Obviously there is noticeable play in the steering wheel before it feels connected to anything mechanical. Once you're in there, have a friend wiggle the wheel while you watch the steering shaft, the lower clamp, and steering box. If the steering shaft is healthy and doesn't have play within the two U joints, and you've got keen eyes, you'll see the lower clamp moving around on the steering-box input-shaft instead of turning it... Another check is to grab the lower steering shaft and see if it moves relative to the steering box. Mine was loose enough to also slide back and forth on the steering box input shaft as well... (there was a ring of exposed shining brassy metal on the splined input shaft which is also an indication of play there.)

I found that a 12-point 5/16" socket is a nearly perfect fit over the oddball torx-style bolt head. The bolt wasn't loose, but I was able to get another 1/2 turn or so (ish) with a ratchet wrench which tightened things right up. It's muscle-tight, but the bolt appears similar to the other aluminum bolts used throughout the engine bay so don't over-do it.

Funny that the difference between legendary BMW steering feel and lane-wandering chaos comes down to the torque setting of a single bolt... I have a feeling this one bolt had been slowly working its way loose (stretching?) for some time as my steering is now more direct, connected, and solid than I ever remember it being.

[teaston]

I know this is an old thread, but i have to thank prototyp for this fix!

I've had this problem for months, and this fix has completely sorted it, for free! Car doesn't wander now on certain road surfaces, and doesn't require constant steering wheel corrections anymore. Handling feels tighter and theres more road feedback through the steering wheel.

One correction to the instructions, on right hand drive cars at least, is you don't need to take the under engine cover off. Remove right front wheel, then remove the left side of the plastic cover straight in front of you by removing the two plastic nuts, then you can get to the torx bolt though there. Turn the steering wheel to get it pointing towards the opening. Not sure if this method is possible on left hand drive, but worth a try as it's much quicker!

Originally Posted by prototyp

Follow up. I fixed my 'loose' steering issue! Here's what I found, and how to fix it... hope it might help someone here.

The culprit in my case was the lower steering joint clamp bolt. It was just slack enough to allow some slop between the steering shaft and the steering box input shaft... this was felt at the steering wheel as about 3/8" of free play. (The steering wheel is effectively a lever, so a little axial wiggle at the input shaft feels like a big movement at the wheel)





If you've got an hour, some tools, and mechanical acuity it's a simple thing to look into.

Investigating and addressing the issue requires removing the cowl panel (there's a DIY here for that little job). Obviously there is noticeable play in the steering wheel before it feels connected to anything mechanical. Once you're in there, have a friend wiggle the wheel while you watch the steering shaft, the lower clamp, and steering box. If the steering shaft is healthy and doesn't have play within the two U joints, and you've got keen eyes, you'll see the lower clamp moving around on the steering-box input-shaft instead of turning it... Another check is to grab the lower steering shaft and see if it moves relative to the steering box. Mine was loose enough to also slide back and forth on the steering box input shaft as well... (there was a ring of exposed shining brassy metal on the splined input shaft which is also an indication of play there.)

I found that a 12-point 5/16" socket is a nearly perfect fit over the oddball torx-style bolt head. The bolt wasn't loose, but I was able to get another 1/2 turn or so (ish) with a ratchet wrench which tightened things right up. It's muscle-tight, but the bolt appears similar to the other aluminum bolts used throughout the engine bay so don't over-do it.

Funny that the difference between legendary BMW steering feel and lane-wandering chaos comes down to the torque setting of a single bolt... I have a feeling this one bolt had been slowly working its way loose (stretching?) for some time as my steering is now more direct, connected, and solid than I ever remember it being.

Do you have active steering, your PS reservoir looks different.

[teaston]

The power steering reservoir isn't in any of his pictures as far as i can see!

[prototyp]

@teaston, glad this thread helped you out. I don't want to think of what a shop would charge to dig through the steering and suspension systems trying to diagnose the problem.

Index Yes, active steering. (slightly less active after this job )

[triger716]

Originally Posted by teaston

The power steering reservoir isn't in any of his pictures as far as i can see!

The middle picture shows a cap that looks like it says Pentosin chf 11s on it. It looks like an oil filter cover but I believe it's his power steering reservoir.


EDIT: Active steering explains it.

Non-Active Steering Reservoir


Active Steering Reservoir

[teaston]

I thought it was the oil filter housing! So how do you check the atf fluid level in that?!

[prototyp]

Originally Posted by teaston

I thought it was the oil filter housing! So how do you check the atf fluid level in that?!

The top is the threaded cap. Exploded view doesn't really depict it as a separate part very well.

[teaston]

Ah i see!

Well thanks again for your guide, it's so much more like an ultimate driving machine now!

[trufus]

Sorry to bump this thread again but I'm having a similar issue.

prototyp or teaston, did either of you have the clicking or popping symptom in low speed turns before this fix? If so, did tightening up the rack solve them?

[clpca]

I'm new here and this is my first post. I had the same steering wheel play. I tightened the lower steering clamp as prototyp suggested and the problem is gone.

I have a 2007 e90 without active steering. In my case the bolt was pretty easy to get to. I just removed the air filter box and there was just enough room to get my arm and a socket wrench in there. The torx bolt head is a E-12.

[r11co]

Originally Posted by teaston

One correction to the instructions, on right hand drive cars at least, is you don't need to take the under engine cover off. Remove right front wheel, then remove the left side of the plastic cover straight in front of you by removing the two plastic nuts, then you can get to the torx bolt though there. Turn the steering wheel to get it pointing towards the opening. Not sure if this method is possible on left hand drive, but worth a try as it's much quicker!

You don't even have to do the above. This is another 'holy thread resurrection moment' but it's worth adding that I managed this job today on my RHD 330i without removing the wheel, undertray or anything else for that matter. This bolt can be accessed from the top of the engine bay simply by looking down the gap between the engine block and the wheelarch. The steering column is clearly visible and if the steering wheel is rotated until this bolt head is facing upward it can be accessed using a long socket extension.

Even with a shorter extension there should be enough space to get and nip the bolt up. Took me about 10 minutes and it is an instant cure.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by r11co

You don't even have to do the above. This is another 'holy thread resurrection moment' but it's worth adding that I managed this job today on my RHD 330i without removing the wheel, undertray or anything else for that matter. This bolt can be accessed from the top of the engine bay simply by looking down the gap between the engine block and the wheelarch. The steering column is clearly visible and if the steering wheel is rotated until this bolt head is facing upward it can be accessed using a long socket extension.

Even with a shorter extension there should be enough space to get and nip the bolt up. Took me about 10 minutes and it is an instant cure.

Cool, glad you managed it, it really transforms the car!

Pretty sure that method wasn't possible on my pre lci 320d as the air filter box is there!

[polskatomek]

Originally Posted by clpca

I'm new here and this is my first post. I had the same steering wheel play. I tightened the lower steering clamp as prototyp suggested and the problem is gone.

I have a 2007 e90 without active steering. In my case the bolt was pretty easy to get to. I just removed the air filter box and there was just enough room to get my arm and a socket wrench in there. The torx bolt head is a E-12.

Yup, me too. E90 330i... So far it seems to have tightened things up back to how it should be. Thanks prototyp!

[AWDBooSTIn90]

Im soo glad i found this thread! I had a little bit of play in my steering that i figured was from slightly worn out tie rods with my mikeage (120k). But i figured id take a look at this since you can see it and access it without removing anything. I have a LHD 335i btw.

Sure enough there was a little bit of movement between the lower steering shaft u-joint and the steering rack . Grabbed an E12 tork socket and an extension. Tightnened it up ablut a full turn with a 3/8" ratchet (nothing crazy, but still pretty tight). Kept tightening alittle at a time and checking until it was finally completely tight.

The car feels like a brand new car! And i barely had any free play in my steering wheel. Just about a 1/4" of free play side to side when parked with engine off. Now its super tight and drives awesome!

Everyone with an E9x should check this bolt and make sure its tight. My steering shaft has never been removed and the only thing i can think of is, a gap wearing out over time from having a small amount of free play that got worse over time. Tightening the bolt closes the gap and locks the u-joint onto the steering rack.

Im still going to replace my inner and outer tie rods when i install my M3 control arms and have the alignment done because they have the mikeage, but honestly they're probably still fine. I feel no steering play whatsoever now. Next step is m3 steering rack....

EDIT: if anyone was wondering my car is a 2007 E92 335i LHD US-spec. But it seems that any LHD or RHD shares the same style steering shaft to steering rack setup. Conventional ujoint with pinch bolt clamp.

[Adrian_335i]

Originally Posted by prototyp

Follow up. I fixed my 'loose' steering issue! Here's what I found, and how to fix it... hope it might help someone here.
...

You saved me hundreds of pounds mate!
I bought my RHD 335i with pretty bad play in the steering wheel and cracking noise when turning the wheel to full lock (either side).
I took the car to 2 garages, one said it's definitely the steering rack and needs replacing if I want to get rid of the play, the second one (BMW indy) said it's probably the rack but he said he'd check everything is tight before replacing it.
Well, it took me literally 5 minutes to take a long extension with flexi joint and a 12-point 8mm socket and tighten the torx - all play instantly gone.
If you rotate the wheel so that the bolt is pointing upwards you don't have to remove anything on RHD 335i to get to this bolt.
Btw. the cracking noise was caused by the steering rack moving on the 2 bolts that mount it to the subframe - as described in this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=623775
I love this forum already!

[javeci01]

Very helpful information.

Can you use a ratcheting E12 E Torx wrench for this job? I do not have access to the car until this weekend (to check myself) so I am wondering if I need to order tools (I already own a ratcheting E Torx from oil filter housing gasket job). Thank you.