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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Used vs ReBuilt N55
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12-07-2018, 08:26 AM | #1 |
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Used vs ReBuilt N55
Based on overwhelming forum advice to find a used engine vs. rebuilding my fu#ked N55, who am I to disagree?
Here is my question: Why is eBay's "Will this part fit" feature" concluding that an N55 from an '13 MT be incompatible with my '11 335i xdrive AWD or an N55 from an '11 X5 N55 be incompatible with my '11 335i xdrive? mike |
12-07-2018, 09:42 AM | #2 | |
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12-07-2018, 10:56 AM | #3 | ||
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12-07-2018, 10:17 PM | #4 |
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2011 to 2013 changed DME and HPFP as well.
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12-08-2018, 04:59 PM | #7 |
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Mike my personal concern would be to trust alot of comments from people who have never done this type of swap.... I would only listen to people who have actually done this.
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12-08-2018, 06:23 PM | #8 | |
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Also when mixing AT and MT engines, keep your front damper as they'll likely be different. I swapped an '11 328xi AT N52 into an '07 Z4 MT with N52. Unless you know the parts match, it's likely best to re-use your original accessories. |
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12-08-2018, 07:53 PM | #9 |
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12-08-2018, 09:42 PM | #10 |
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For the record, I ran a JB4 on Map 5 for almost a year before I started bolting shit on to my engine. I "met?" Weehee126 on a different forum where I was attempting to learn more about the JB4. Weehee126 offered his help, expertise, etc. and two separate backend flash tunes that he tweaked for me to use and learn.
The guy knows N55's. |
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12-09-2018, 10:12 AM | #11 |
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I have rebuilt a performance mazdaspeed engine. Never swapped a bmw engine but i am not the one telling him he can do this or that..all i am saying is he has to do his own research before trusting joe does here
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12-09-2018, 04:00 PM | #12 | |
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Finally, a good problem to have
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I'd appreciate any tips/suggestions regarding the removal of my engine and the installation of the following motor. The biggest obstacle appears to be the OFH. My '11 did not come equipped with the oil cooler and I installed an M-type aftermarket bumper. I'd prefer not to change the OFH in a motor with so few miles. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264081078683 I'm hoping to help offset my costs by selling parts off the loaded engine that are not needed. Evidently, the seller only strips parts off motors that are blown. mike |
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12-10-2018, 07:13 AM | #13 | |
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As for tips, I would disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission and then pull the engine out from the front. Swap the transmission with the assembly out of the car. It's much easier imo than trying to get at all the bell housing bolts from under the car on your back. Leave the slave on the transmission as well. This wasn't hard to do. The whole front clip comes off with a handful of bolts. My best advice is to take pictures of all the connections and label everything with painters tape. You don't want to mix up the O2 sensors or anything like that. Before you crank it for the first time, drop some oil down into the oil filter housing. You'll also need to code your DME for the new injectors that are in this new motor. NewTIS.info has every bit of information you need. You're really going to have to sit down and spend some time sifting through newtis, realoem, and diy's. |
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12-10-2018, 01:16 PM | #14 |
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I am not sure what issues you'll run into using a F series engine in a E series chassis.
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12-10-2018, 04:47 PM | #15 | |
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The difference between what I do at work and working on my car is purely financial. With my car, the cost of my fu#k ups come out of my pocket. Despite people like Weehee126, Pladi, yourself, bbnks2, and other members, I'm confident I'll fu#k something up. No more driveway wrenching. The car is gonna sit until: I read the newtis.info Erect that HF portable garage (including floor, heat, and my new 21" Costco sourced 5 ton car lift). The service manager at my local BMW dealership has held that position for fifteen years...he knows less than the forum members I mentioned above... Yes, there will be issues...but I've always learned more from my mistakes than my successes |
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