[Taylored]

Hello all..

Recently got a N52 330i. I just noticed on a check up that on the serpentine belt tensioner the belt sticks a tiny bit out (looks worse on photo as is close up). I already ordered new OFHG since the oil leaking from it is what probably caused it also ordered a new serpentine belt kit with tensioner etc. Problem is, I’m really busy myself and the stuff takes a while to get delivered plus my mechanic only has time 11th of april. Other shops around also fully booked untill late april.

Is this still drivable in the meantime?

[Nando_e90]

Shouldn’t be a problem for a while. I drove like that for two years because of a used tensioner I installed after the crap quality almost new INA broke in two pieces.

[Taylored]

Originally Posted by Nando_e90

Shouldn’t be a problem for a while. I drove like that for two years because of a used tensioner I installed after the crap quality almost new INA broke in two pieces.

Thanks for your feedback lol. I saw the horror story’s about belts being sucked in the engine etc.
Hence asking

[Efthreeoh]

OP, I would replace that belt immediately. Two reasons, (1) the belt is worn out because it has the tell-tale micro-cracks in the ribs, and (2) it is very close to slipping off the tensioner pully.

[Taylored]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

OP, I would replace that belt immediately. Two reasons, (1) the belt is worn out because it has the tell-tale micro-cracks in the ribs, and (2) it is very close to slipping off the tensioner pully.

That is how I feel aswell. Only problem is I don’t have an opportunity to fix it anytime soon. Really busy with work, my tools not around since i just moved to a new place. Plus all garages only available in april.

But I don’t want to ruin my engine by letting it swallow the belt if it snaps pffftt.

Reactions are split, half of people tell me that for a while nothing will happen. Other half is telling me change it immediately.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Taylored

That is how I feel aswell. Only problem is I don’t have an opportunity to fix it anytime soon. Really busy with work, my tools not around since i just moved to a new place. Plus all garages only available in april.

But I don’t want to ruin my engine by letting it swallow the belt if it snaps pffftt.

Reactions are split, half of people tell me that for a while nothing will happen. Other half is telling me change it immediately.

Understood. I don't know what is like to live in the Netherlands and availability to buy tools, but all you need for tools is a breaker bar and a T45 or T50 (I forget which size) E-Torx socket and a Torx socket (again, I forget the size) for the tensioner bolt. It's a 20-minute job to replace the tensioner and belt. The tools are a lot less expensive than pulling the oil pan to get the belt parts out of the engine bottom end.

[lordnikon]

Err on the side of caution, I wouldn't drive it until a new belt is put on with new tensioner/idler pulley and bolts.

T60 to loosen the tensioner with a breaker bar. You'll also need a torque wrench

[Taylored]

Thanks for all the replies. I won’t drive it before there is a new belt, tensioner etc. Is on it.

Anyone knows if I need a specialsize belt since my car has active steering?

[StradaRedlands]

Replace.

But you can find a T50 bit and a breaker bar, order them, and put a new one on and still be faster and cheaper than paying the garage. Your tensioner is still worn out and needs to be replaced, but you could wait a bit till the tool situation is worked out. It needs an E45 socket or something like that, and a torque wrench to accurately tighten.

I don't want to be presumptive of your situation, but this is a VERY DIY sort of a job. Even with the investment in specialty tools, you will be way ahead doing it.

And then get that OFHG done!!! That is also a pretty straightforward job, even for someone in an apartment or street parking. I don't at all want to sound preachy, just letting you know.

But yeah, belt could go any minute and cause catastrophic engine damage. Get it fixed!

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Understood. I don't know what is like to live in the Netherlands and availability to buy tools, but all you need for tools is a breaker bar and a T45 or T50 (I forget which size) E-Torx socket and a Torx socket (again, I forget the size) for the tensioner bolt. It's a 20-minute job to replace the tensioner and belt. The tools are a lot less expensive than pulling the oil pan to get the belt parts out of the engine bottom end.

I agree pick up the few parts and tools needed and DIY this. It’s not difficult and this will cost orders of magnitude less than a shop will charge you.

[Tambohamilton]

I'd drive it, no worries. Just observe it with the engine running - if it runs smoothly and doesn't bounce or wobble, it's extremely unlikely to come off. YMMV

That said, it's an easy job to replace it, as others have pointed out.

[Taylored]

I’m not taking any changes doesn’t feel right to drive it. Will do it myself asap. OFHG next in line. And then I can finally do some preventative maintenance instead of fixing current problems.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Taylored

... Recently got a N52 330i. I just noticed on a check up that on the serpentine belt tensioner the belt sticks a tiny bit out... I already ordered new OFHG since the oil leaking from it is what probably caused it also ordered a new serpentine belt kit with tensioner etc...

BEFORE you do anything, I would carefully inspect the position of the belt on ALL grooved pulleys, using a bright LED light. I can't be sure, but your photo at the very Lower-Right corner appears to show the belt ONE GROOVE forward on the Power Steering Pump Pulley (similar to position on Tensioner).

If the belt is NOT positioned CORRECTLY on EACH pulley that suggests a Prior Owner or his "Mek-Nik" was in a hurry and paid NO attention to DETAILS.

Since you've already ordered a Tensioner Kit and OFHG, I would do EVERYTHING at same time, but inspect belt for wear or oil damage and also inspect Tensioner for any looseness in idler bearing, taking time to ANALyze what caused belt to be positioned FORWARD.

Please let us know what you find.
George

[Taylored]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

BEFORE you do anything, I would carefully inspect the position of the belt on ALL grooved pulleys, using a bright LED light. I can't be sure, but your photo at the very Lower-Right corner appears to show the belt ONE GROOVE forward on the Power Steering Pump Pulley (similar to position on Tensioner).

If the belt is NOT positioned CORRECTLY on EACH pulley that suggests a Prior Owner or his "Mek-Nik" was in a hurry and paid NO attention to DETAILS.

Since you've already ordered a Tensioner Kit and OFHG, I would do EVERYTHING at same time, but inspect belt for wear or oil damage and also inspect Tensioner for any looseness in idler bearing, taking time to ANALyze what caused belt to be positioned FORWARD.

Please let us know what you find.
George

Hi George, many thanks for your extensive help & advise. It is greatly appreciated.

I’ve inspected the power steering pulley and the rest of them and the belt does sit in the correct groves.

With the engine is running, it seems like the tensioner is wobbling a tiny bit. So I’m assuming that is what’s causing the belt to hang over.

However, when checking for belts online, I’ve noticed that there is an option for serpentine belts for cars with active steering and without.

My car has active steerint, so maybe they put the wrong belt on it? Not sure tho since they are the same length.

Are you aware in any differences with belts for active steering and without?

[ctuna]

They sell a protection ring for the Front Main Oil Seal now .
You might consider putting one of those in and changing
the tension er and belt . If that thing goes bad it can take
out your whole Engine.

broken belt
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1231881
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=23
https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1477111
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990

[ctuna]

They sell a protection ring for the Front Main Oil Seal now .
You might consider putting one of those in and changing
the tension er and belt . If that thing goes bad it can take
out your whole Engine.

broken belt
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?t=1231881
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...3&postcount=23
https://www.oxwerkzperformance.com/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1477111
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1305990

I would have nightmares with it that far over the pulley.

[Dutchsea]

Hi Taylored, I just replaced mine in my E91 with M47 engine. Never done it before and it was not difficult. And took me about an hour but if I need to do it again it will take me 15-25 minutes now I now exactly how it works. I have lots of space to work as I have a 4 cilinder engine which has lots of space in the front.

I have power steering too. And my engine has 2 belts. One for power steering and one for the rest. See foto 1. (My power steering belt has no tensioner and needs to be removed by guiding it away from the pulley with a piece of flat wood while turning the crank pulley)

I suggest you check the code one your existing belt to verify which one you need to order. The code for my power steering belt is clearly visible in the foto.
If you can’t see it just turn the crank shaft till the code becomes visible.

Only “special” tool I needed was a large torx bit. I am pretty sure I needed a T45 to use on the belt tensioner to release the pressure. Stick in pin in the hole of the tensioner so it remains in position during the belt removed and replacement phase. Foto 2

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Dutchsea

Only “special” tool I needed was a large torx bit. I am pretty sure I needed a T45 to use on the belt tensioner to release the pressure.

N52 tensioner requires a T60 to release tension. Here's a detailed DIY.

[Taylored]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

BEFORE you do anything, I would carefully inspect the position of the belt on ALL grooved pulleys, using a bright LED light. I can't be sure, but your photo at the very Lower-Right corner appears to show the belt ONE GROOVE forward on the Power Steering Pump Pulley (similar to position on Tensioner).

If the belt is NOT positioned CORRECTLY on EACH pulley that suggests a Prior Owner or his "Mek-Nik" was in a hurry and paid NO attention to DETAILS.

Since you've already ordered a Tensioner Kit and OFHG, I would do EVERYTHING at same time, but inspect belt for wear or oil damage and also inspect Tensioner for any looseness in idler bearing, taking time to ANALyze what caused belt to be positioned FORWARD.

Please let us know what you find.
George

Replaced the belt and tensioner today. It was a bad tensioner. It was really wiggly. Next up is OFHG.

Als discovered today that I have a small coolant leak. Can’t find anything from above. So I suspect it is the waterpump.

That was next on my to do list , so Will repace it anyway. Only did not expect to do everything at once 😂

Also ordered spark plugs - oil and oil filter. Will do those while doing the OFHG.

[tcphoto]

I replaced the tensioner, pulleys and belt on my N54 last month, I must have used a third of a can of degreaser before installing new parts. You need to see it clean so you can monitor the leaks, I don't have an OFHG issue but I do have the gasket in the tool bag just in case.

[crashoverride]

Whenever I replace spark plugs I get new ignition coils. The BMW's are so finicky for the coils. Cheap easy and worth no longer worrying about.

[Taylored]

Originally Posted by crashoverride

Whenever I replace spark plugs I get new ignition coils. The BMW's are so finicky for the coils. Cheap easy and worth no longer worrying about.

Any recommendation on a brand for the coils? I ordered NGK plugs.