[jpackard]

Help! Banging my head on the wall at this point. I traded for a used car that supposedly died while idling at a stoplight.



What I've tried:

Engine code - camshaft sensor.

Replaced both camshaft sensors and crankshaft sensor.

Replaced VVT.

Changed oil.

Reset the computer.




Symptoms:

Ignition fire on all cylinders.

Injectors firing on all cylinders.

70 lbs pressure on fuel rail.

Fuel injectors appear to be firing.

Will not start.

210 lbs compression on ALL cylinders EXCEPT #3. Zero compression on #3 cylinder.



Current codes:

P1727 - CAN engine speed
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit
P1727 - CAN engine speed
P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0599 - Thermostat Heater Control Circuit High
P0442 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak)
P054B - Cold Start "B" Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1
P1727 - CAN engine speed



What do I try next? Any ideas?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jpackard

... Will not start. ["Crank, NO Start" I presume?]... Current codes:
P1727 - CAN engine speed
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit...

If Starter turns/cranks engine, but engine does NOT fire, with the two codes above, there is LIKELY NO RPM Signal received by the DME from the Crankshaft Sensor. If the DME gets NO signal from Crankshaft Sensor, it CANNOT time Spark or Injector Pulse, so you get "Crank, NO Start". You can confirm the lack of RPM signal by using ANY Scan Tool (or INPA/ISTA) that can Display Live Data of Engine RPM. During Starter Cranking, that RPM value should be in Range of 180 to 200 RPM. Also, TACH probably shows NO RPM, or has erratic reading.

Most P-code readers can also display Engine RPM as Live data, so try that and let us know what you find. We can then suggest Next Steps.

When you post back, please indicate:
1) Last-7 Characters of VIN;
2) Engine N52 vs. N51?
3) Make/Model Scan Tool available?
4) Multimeter available?
George

[jpackard]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If Starter turns/cranks engine, but engine does NOT fire, with the two codes above, there is LIKELY NO RPM Signal received by the DME from the Crankshaft Sensor. If the DME gets NO signal from Crankshaft Sensor, it CANNOT time Spark or Injector Pulse, so you get "Crank, NO Start". You can confirm the lack of RPM signal by using ANY Scan Tool (or INPA/ISTA) that can Display Live Data of Engine RPM. During Starter Cranking, that RPM value should be in Range of 180 to 200 RPM. Also, TACH probably shows NO RPM, or has erratic reading.

George - thank you for the reply!

I am currently in the process of removing the valve cover so I can visually inspect the cams and valves. I will read the RPMs when everything is back together.

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

When you post back, please indicate:
1) Last-7 Characters of VIN;
2) Engine N52 vs. N51?
3) Make/Model Scan Tool available?
4) Multimeter available?
George

1) A972952
2) N52
3) Innova 5610
4) Yes

[jpackard]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If Starter turns/cranks engine, but engine does NOT fire, with the two codes above, there is LIKELY NO RPM Signal received by the DME from the Crankshaft Sensor. If the DME gets NO signal from Crankshaft Sensor, it CANNOT time Spark or Injector Pulse, so you get "Crank, NO Start". You can confirm the lack of RPM signal by using ANY Scan Tool (or INPA/ISTA) that can Display Live Data of Engine RPM. During Starter Cranking, that RPM value should be in Range of 180 to 200 RPM. Also, TACH probably shows NO RPM, or has erratic reading.
...
George

To clarify - I am getting fire to the spark plugs and the injectors, but the engine will not start. Also, no compression at all on cylinder 3, which I would assume would be a valve issue, which is why I am taking the valve cover off right now. The piston is moving up and down in the #3 cylinder.

UPDATE: The exhaust cam is not turning.

https://youtube.com/shorts/hYNskUlfM...LFWhh-Fl94srNS

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jpackard

... UPDATE: The exhaust cam is not turning.

https://youtube.com/shorts/hYNskUlfM...LFWhh-Fl94srNS

Check for Loose/ Broken/ Missing VANOS Bolts per pdf page 14 of attached pdf.
George

[jpackard]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Check for Loose/ Broken/ Missing VANOS Bolts per pdf page 14 of attached pdf.
George

This ended up being the problem! I called the dealership and they said they would not allow the recall since I already poked around in it. I ordered the parts and attempted the fix myself. It starts! Hooray! It takes several seconds to actually start, though, so I think I may have something a bit off.

Thank you very much for the valuable info, George! You know your stuff!

[M-technik-3]

They should be doing the recall since the other side has the faulty vanos bolts.