[Yozh]

Sukutash, thanks for confirmation. TMS aluminum bushes is what I shall go for. Just wanted to make sure that they are not so painful to need a shop press. I do know about the HPA tool and will most likely end up using it. Cheers.

[whosdady]

I wouldn't waste your time on inserts. If you go poly, I would only consider black. I have yellow and purple and I'm not happy. I would go delrin or aluminum. They will offer the best performance gains. The delrin are slightly easier to install.

[Yozh]

Thanks guys, solid bushes it is.

[steamboat]

Originally Posted by sukutash

I did the install myself with home made press tools. I used a 3" pipe coupling with a huge assortment of hard steel/tooling washers, at least 1/2" or larger hardened steel all thread, a rented bushing install kit from the local auto parts store, copper anti-seize or similar lube and a WHOLE lot of elbow grease and beer. The subframe does not require complete removal. You do have to disconnect those brake lines I mentioned to give you the last nth of clearance and tilt the subrame with jacks or jack stand in order to access the corner you're working on. I recommend the tool from HPA because it was specifically designed for this task and if I had to do it again I would definitely utilize it. I was not aware of the HPA tool at the time that I did this mod. Plan on at least 2 days to allow for rest breaks because your going to need to take them frequently in order to prevent fatigue.

I have nothing but pro's for this mod. It completely transforms how the car behaves in pretty much every aspect of driving. There is a very slight addition of noise into the cabin during low rpm, high load acceleration but that pales in comparison to the benefits.

I took a similar approach. I used hole saws, 4" for the rear and 3.5? For the front, combined with light heat from a torch to remove the old bushings. You'll need vice grips or something similar to bend the rim of the fronts to fit the hole saw/bushing tool. I also used 1/2" all thread, a ton of washers, increasing in outer diameter from 1-2.5", and some heavy duty steel pipe fittings from Home Depot to press the new ones in. I used anti-seize, copper grease is probably better.

I also installed a diff lock down kit with solid bushings, lsd, coilovers, poly sway bushings, and m3 camber links at the same time. I'm waiting on a replacement jb4 to do real testing, but the initial test was great. The rear is firm, planted, and controllable. I can't wait to test it once I have boost again. I do have a large increase in nvh though. I attribute it to the combination of solid subframe and dif bushings. The whine from the dif is very noticeable when gradually slowing down. I don't mind, but ymmv. I don't think the nvh would be near as bad with only solid subframe, as the rest of the driveline would still be isolated and the factory dif isn't noisy.

[PrematureApex]

^^^For the subframe bushings?

Just put a socket between the unibody and the bushing, jack the rear of the car up by the subframe near the corner you're working on, and heat around the bushing holder with a torch. They slide right out under the weight of the car.

[Socket]

Get these
Cheap, easier to install and are more forgiving then M3 or solid bushings
I had them installed and they totally transformed the rear end
Second thread show you how to build a rig to press the bushings out and replace them

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...g#post19303684

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1158856

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_...t_number=49202

[steamboat]

Originally Posted by Socket

Get these
Cheap, easier to install and are more forgiving then M3 or solid bushings
I had them installed and they totally transformed the rear end
Second thread show you how to build a rig to press the bushings out and replace them

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...g#post19303684

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1158856

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_...t_number=49202

I think the point is for them to NOT be forgiving. Heard a few people say they wish they'd gone with delrin/solid instead of these.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by steamboat

I think the point is for them to NOT be forgiving. Heard a few people say they wish they'd gone with delrin/solid instead of these.

No complaints here

[Fundguy1]

You're missing the in between compromise. The m3 are marginally stiffer. The solid ones hard as anything. Black ones from AKE or powerflex are stiffer but offer very little nvh and substantial improvement in handling and not much harder ride than M3.

[PrematureApex]

Originally Posted by Socket

Get these
Cheap, easier to install and are more forgiving then M3 or solid bushings
I had them installed and they totally transformed the rear end
Second thread show you how to build a rig to press the bushings out and replace them

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...g#post19303684

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1158856

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_...t_number=49202

+1 on two-piece polys.

Little puller you made I bet works well, I use similar rigs for wheel bearings and other bushings regularly. But just to reiterate, that's still not as easy as just using a hand torch, a large socket and a jack. So stinking easy.