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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Help with Adding MS-8 to L7 system. Adding a sub amp, etc.



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      10-29-2013, 10:20 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
No it's not ideal, nothing is in car audio. As is often the case, there are bottlenecks in the system that limit the performance. In this case the bottleneck is NOT the signal source, it is the speakers. You can clean up the signal as much as you want, but it just won't sound any better.

As I pointed out, the long-term costs of the DA2 are probably less than the Hifi recode process. If one were to shoot for best possible signal set-up from the OEM HU, then the DA2 is the key. But it only makes sense I think if the speakers will be upgraded at the same time, or if one could not live with the MS-8 pops.
Except coding doesn't cost anything if you know what your doing. All you need is a $50 cable which most of us should already have anyways. Even having someone else do it for you shouldn't be more than 50 bucks. I do agree that the signal is good enough it's just pointless to use the stock amp when there is a better option. You'll also clear out some space to mount the ms8 or an amp.

Btw why does everyone like the stock head unit. I switched mine out and it's much more convenient and I actually think the signal is cleaner.
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      10-29-2013, 10:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Sorry, forgot about MS-8 power wiring. Here you can use 10 gauge. About the same lengths as before, depending on where you put the unit. 6 feet each is safe. Ring terminals for battery/chassis ground connections, forked spade connectors for MS-8 connection. Distribution/fuse block can be used but not necessary. You also need some single thread thin wire (18-20 gauge) to use for turn-on signal between MS-8 and aftermarket amp.

Edit: when I say distribution/fuse block not necessary I mean the you still need to fuse the wire near the battery, you will just have two separate wire runs. Instead, you could use a single 8 gauge run to near where the amp and ms8 will be located, and then use a distribution block to wire each device separately.
For which connection is the in-line fuse holder used for? I would like to add fuses to all power connections for safety if possible. Should I just get a block? Is the block used for multiple connections?

Could you possibly create a MS paint diagram for the power as well? Thanks a million!!!
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      10-29-2013, 10:40 AM   #25
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The stock head unit has the stock look.

The stock head unit has the stock look.
That and the extra stuff you have to through to make it right
like moving the old head unit to somewhere else in the car .
Also if you are doing an amp and speaker mod on a Hi Fi or
L7 you never have to get behind the dash unless you are doing
a center speaker.
Only once on here have I seen a mounting bezel that didn't look
bad.(There was a guy on here making custom bezels at one point)
The are basically all a flat piece of plastic. The thing about
the dinayvin is it kind of looks like it belongs in the dash.

Last edited by ctuna; 10-29-2013 at 11:09 AM.
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      10-29-2013, 10:49 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
The stock head unit has the stock look.
That and the extra stuff you have to through to make it right
like moving the old head unit to somewhere else in the car .
Also if you are doing an amp and speaker mod on a Hi Fi or
L7 you never have to get behind the dash unless you are doing
a center speaker.
Only once on here have I seen a mounting bezel that didn't look
bad.(There was a guy on here making custom bezels at on point)
The are basically all a flat piece of plastic. The thing about
the dinayvin is it kind of looks like it belongs in the dash.
It's not nearly that bad. The only time you have to relocate the stock headunit is if you have assist. I just saved the stock headunit in case I need any updates. Sure the aftermarket headunit doesn't look stock it looks much better, and has quite a bit more features. The metra kit fits pretty good after some modification btw.

I know this is a little off topic but it kind of surprises me that everyone on this site has modified their cars and audio systems so much, but hardly anyone is willing to switch out the headunit. IMO it's the best upgrade I've done so far.
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      10-29-2013, 10:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoonywise View Post
For which connection is the in-line fuse holder used for? I would like to add fuses to all power connections for safety if possible. Should I just get a block? Is the block used for multiple connections?

Could you possibly create a MS paint diagram for the power as well? Thanks a million!!!
Your fuse block should be as close as possible to the battery. You should use 2 seperate fuses for the ms8 and amp. You could use just one going to a distribution block but there's not really any reason to do that unless you only have 1 free power slot.
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      10-29-2013, 10:59 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoonywise View Post
For which connection is the in-line fuse holder used for? I would like to add fuses to all power connections for safety if possible. Should I just get a block? Is the block used for multiple connections?

Could you possibly create a MS paint diagram for the power as well? Thanks a million!!!
Sure, because I'm so good at it!
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      10-29-2013, 11:04 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Sure, because I'm so good at it!
Why do you have a larger fuse on the 12 gauge than the 10 gauge. Also, I would use at least 8 gauge for the amp.
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      10-29-2013, 11:06 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
Why do you have a larger fuse on the 12 gauge than the 10 gauge. Also, I would use at least 8 gauge for the amp.
It was a typo, I already fixed it!
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      10-29-2013, 11:08 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Sure, because I'm so good at it!
Great diagram! Thank you! And lastly (hopefully), where can I get some pictures of connecting the "add-a-tweeter"? I tried search. I see your post here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...&highlight=top


But it is missing some pictures in the middle. I am guessing:

1. Buy 65139217912 - L7 tweeter
2. Buy xxx connector
3. Use xxx (cookie tin) to mount next the center speaker
4. Connect it to xxx

I just want to get everything done at once. Thanks again.
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      10-29-2013, 11:13 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
It was a typo, I already fixed it!
I figured it was.

Personally I would do 2 separate runs to the ms8 and the 2 channel amp, and use 4 gauge for the amp in case it gets upgraded in the future.
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      10-29-2013, 11:13 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoonywise View Post
Great diagram! Thank you! And lastly (hopefully), where can I get some pictures of connecting the "add-a-tweeter"? I tried search. I see your post here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...&highlight=top


But it is missing some pictures in the middle. I am guessing:

1. Buy 65139217912 - L7 tweeter
2. Buy xxx connector
3. Use xxx (cookie tin) to mount next the center speaker
4. Connect it to xxx

I just want to get everything done at once. Thanks again.
The OEM L7 tweeter plugs right in, no need for additional adapters. Just construct your own bracket from whatever you can find in the garage. Make sure it drops down far enough to clear the grille.
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      10-29-2013, 11:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoonywise View Post
Great diagram! Thank you! And lastly (hopefully), where can I get some pictures of connecting the "add-a-tweeter"? I tried search. I see your post here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...&highlight=top


But it is missing some pictures in the middle. I am guessing:

1. Buy 65139217912 - L7 tweeter
2. Buy xxx connector
3. Use xxx (cookie tin) to mount next the center speaker
4. Connect it to xxx

I just want to get everything done at once. Thanks again.
It will plug right into the speaker you just need to figure out how to mount it.
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      10-29-2013, 11:19 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
I figured it was.

Personally I would do 2 separate runs to the ms8 and the 2 channel amp, and use 4 gauge for the amp in case it gets upgraded in the future.
4 gauge is a pain as its thickness raises the panels and trunk lid you're trying to sneak it under. I think you can run huge amounts of current through 8 gauge if the run is relatively short. I have 900W running through 8 gauge no problems, no significant voltage drops.
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      10-29-2013, 11:26 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
4 gauge is a pain as its thickness raises the panels and trunk lid you're trying to sneak it under. I think you can run huge amounts of current through 8 gauge if the run is relatively short. I have 900W running through 8 gauge no problems, no significant voltage drops.
Well 8 gauge is good for about 50 amps so it will work especially with such a short run. I don't really think it was too difficult to run 4 gauge to the stock amp location though.
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      10-29-2013, 12:33 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
It's not nearly that bad. The only time you have to relocate the stock headunit is if you have assist. I just saved the stock headunit in case I need any updates. Sure the aftermarket headunit doesn't look stock it looks much better, and has quite a bit more features. The metra kit fits pretty good after some modification btw.

I know this is a little off topic but it kind of surprises me that everyone on this site has modified their cars and audio systems so much, but hardly anyone is willing to switch out the headunit. IMO it's the best upgrade I've done so far.
What do you have and let's see pictures of it.

It's hard for me to imagine it looking better from what I've seen in google image search. A/m HUs are like 60% as wide as the climate controls and all look strange to me. Not criticizing, I'm genuinely interested in your setup.
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      10-29-2013, 03:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J38 View Post
What do you have and let's see pictures of it.

It's hard for me to imagine it looking better from what I've seen in google image search. A/m HUs are like 60% as wide as the climate controls and all look strange to me. Not criticizing, I'm genuinely interested in your setup.
Alpine S920HD. Excuse the dirty car

The rearview camera is just a cheap camera I got off ebay that replaces the license plate light. I am planning on getting front and rear Alpine camera's soon. As you can see the dash kit doesn't stick out much, its actually not very noticeable.
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      10-29-2013, 03:13 PM   #39
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Bezel could be better.

Bezel could be better.
I saw one where the the bezel wasn't a flat it counter sunk to meet
the edges of the unit with diagonal lines from the corners that looked
pretty good.
Also if you could do something like that with the heater space it would look nice.
Also it doesn't look quite centered from the pictures but it could be the angle of the camera.
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      10-29-2013, 03:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Bezel could be better.
I saw one where the the bezel wasn't a flat it counter sunk to meet
the edges of the unit with diagonal lines from the corners that looked
pretty good.
Also if you could do something like that with the heater space it would look nice.
Also it doesn't look quite centered from the pictures but it could be the angle of the camera.
No it is off center. Ive been finishing up the install so I've taken it out a few times, I'll finish it up later this week and make sure its centered.

I was looking at the bezel and I'm pretty sure I could modify it so its flush at the bottom not sure its worth the effort though, I might just get a second one to try it on.
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      10-29-2013, 06:30 PM   #41
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This is literally exactly what I was looking for! I'm not so good with the technical terms and whatnot, but this picture has made the whole process a hell lot easier to digest haha. Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Don't criticize my awesome MS Paint skills!!!
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      10-29-2013, 06:45 PM   #42
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I like the first one in this link better.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...55617003,d.cGE

I like the one in this link better.
The one below that is.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CDsQ9QEwAQ
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      10-30-2013, 09:56 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Sure, because I'm so good at it!
Kaigoss69, I just wanted to clarify the 18" length for the power. Is the 18" from the battery to the inline-fuse? or 18" total from battery to the fuse block?

Also, Technic's power wire from the battery is 4 gauge I believe, do I still use the same amps for the fuses? I am guessing that from the battery to the inline fuse is a 4 gauge (technic) and from inline to the fuse block is 8 gauge?

Thank you.
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Last edited by hoonywise; 10-30-2013 at 11:37 AM.
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      10-30-2013, 11:16 AM   #44
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Is this okay to wire it like this? Is it safe, or do I still need the inline fuse?

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Last edited by hoonywise; 10-30-2013 at 11:35 AM.
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