[tsosby20]

So my bmw, 07 e92 n52 has been running rough for a while. About 2 months ago it felt like a normal misfire. Like a coil going out. But it didn't do it all the time. I hooked it up to our machine and found no misfire. A month goes by and it then stops the misfiring feeling and on WOT it will completely bog down. It will drive fine till I floor it then it will sound and feel like it took a dump. The rpms shoot up but the mph do not. I have taken out every coil and tested it with a meter and all checked out the same. I have cleaned the air filter, maf sensor, and vanos solenoids and swapped them. I have attached a pic I got on my scanner of the vanos solenoids and the eccentric shaft. Could it be a vanos failed or the eccentric shaft sensor or something? Could it be the tune kicking in and out. Do I need a re tune ? Typical coil pack? Thanks!

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

So my bmw, 07 e92 n52 has been running rough for a while. About 2 months ago it felt like a normal misfire. Like a coil going out. But it didn't do it all the time. I hooked it up to our machine and found no misfire. A month goes by and it then stops the misfiring feeling and on WOT it will completely bog down. It will drive fine till I floor it then it will sound and feel like it took a dump. The rpms shoot up but the mph do not. I have taken out every coil and tested it with a meter and all checked out the same. I have cleaned the air filter, maf sensor, and vanos solenoids and swapped them. I have attached a pic I got on my scanner of the vanos solenoids and the eccentric shaft. Could it be a vanos failed or the eccentric shaft sensor or something? Could it be the tune kicking in and out. Do I need a re tune ? Typical coil pack? Thanks!

Anyone got any input?

[XtraTryHard]

What other symtoms does the car have? Only ones I see are, occasional misfires, weak WOT...I ask bcuz I somewhat have the same issue. I just replaced the battery, on my 08 328i N52K, with an AGM, registered it myself. It started misifiring after sitting at idle for about 15-20 minutes.

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by XtraTryHard

What other symtoms does the car have? Only ones I see are, occasional misfires, weak WOT...I ask bcuz I somewhat have the same issue. I just replaced the battery, on my 08 328i N52K, with an AGM, registered it myself. It started misifiring after sitting at idle for about 15-20 minutes.

That is pretty much the only symptoms. Just a misfire at times, and it bogs completely down feeling at wot. Could it just be a coil going out or could it be more? Does that pic I have attached show a bad Vanos Solenoid?

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

!

Your angles are quite a bit off. Mine are about 5 Degrees off but my adaptation reflect the offset.

- Perform an eccentric shaft adaptation its probably in your tool if not use inpa, or ista.

- Check the vanos angle values too, perform an adaptation ( if over 5 degrees off. (Check Oil level, oil filter , oil filter basket and oil filter basket o-rings), vanos filter/check valve

- check fuel quality (ista can report fuel quality, maybe inpa too)

- run the car without the maf (smoother? - look for air leaks, include exhaust pre o2-sensors )

- Injectors (dirty, clogged, stuck) - i ran liquimoly injector cleaner, and fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank, this clear up all my rough idle issues. Fill up with Shell V-Power Fuel 91 AKI.

- [RPM shoots up? but no speed change] sounds like a worn clutch. (Engine RPM reporting is quite reliable on this engine, there are multiple sensors that can report RPM)

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

Your angles are quite a bit off. Mine are about 5 Degrees off but my adaptation reflect the offset.

- Perform an eccentric shaft adaptation its probably in your tool if not use inpa, or ista.

- Check the vanos angle values too, perform an adaptation ( if over 5 degrees off. (Check Oil level, oil filter , oil filter basket and oil filter basket o-rings), vanos filter/check valve

- check fuel quality (ista can report fuel quality, maybe inpa too)

- run the car without the maf (smoother? - look for air leaks, include exhaust pre o2-sensors )

- Injectors (dirty, clogged, stuck) - i ran liquimoly injector cleaner, and fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank, this clear up all my rough idle issues. Fill up with Shell V-Power Fuel 91 AKI.

- [RPM shoots up? but no speed change] sounds like a worn clutch. (Engine RPM reporting is quite reliable on this engine, there are multiple sensors that can report RPM)

So what exactly does it mean with the angles I am showing? I am just wondering if I am overthinking and just need to replace the last 4 coils since I've done the front 2 within the past year. It just don't feel like a coil going out though.

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

So what exactly does it mean with the angles I am showing? I am just wondering if I am overthinking and just need to replace the last 4 coils since I've done the front 2 within the past year. It just don't feel like a coil going out though.

Those angles are showing how far the valve lift adjustment shaft has turned (degrees). This is a direct correlation to how high (millimetres) your valves are allowed to lift. Its essentially your throttle body metering air into the engine.

If you have misfire codes then swap around your coils till the codes move to cylinders that have no codes. If all your cylinders are mis firing then its got something to do with air or fuel not spark.

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

Those angles are showing how far the valve lift adjustment shaft has turned (degrees). This is a direct correlation to how high (millimetres) your valves are allowed to lift. Its essentially your throttle body metering air into the engine.

If you have misfire codes then swap around your coils till the codes move to cylinders that have no codes. If all your cylinders are mis firing then its got something to do with air or fuel not spark.

Hmm. It sounds like it could be the eccentric shaft. And no my car has no codes at all. The last times I've had a misfire it would last like 2 weeks then it would finally throw a code. What is your input on the vanos solenoids? I see one of them says "1" and the other says "0"? Would that be correct?

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

Hmm. It sounds like it could be the eccentric shaft. And no my car has no codes at all. The last times I've had a misfire it would last like 2 weeks then it would finally throw a code. What is your input on the vanos solenoids? I see one of them says "1" and the other says "0"? Would that be correct?

The vanos solenoids are a wear item that causes the issues you are experiencing when failing. Not that they dont function but that they cannot keep the position they are told to keep. This throws the engine timing off by a lot. Look at intake and exhaust camshaft actual vs commanded position. Brand new genuine bmw solenoids control within 0.5 degrees accuracy for exhaust and intake cam shaft.


How many miles do you have on the engine?

What oil do you use? And after How many miles do you change it? I am gauging how worn the cam seal and vanos solenoids are.

Try the easy stuff on the first list i post, see if you get any improvement. The chain reaction of issues one little thing causes is very tough to diagnose. I would bet you are i need of new vanos solenoids, but its better to prove it first.

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

The vanos solenoids are a wear item that causes the issues you are experiencing when failing. Not that they dont function but that they cannot keep the position they are told to keep. This throws the engine timing off by a lot. Look at intake and exhaust camshaft actual vs commanded position. Brand new genuine bmw solenoids control within 0.5 degrees accuracy for exhaust and intake cam shaft.


How many miles do you have on the engine?

What oil do you use? And after How many miles do you change it? I am gauging how worn the cam seal and vanos solenoids are.

Try the easy stuff on the first list i post, see if you get any improvement. The chain reaction of issues one little thing causes is very tough to diagnose. I would bet you are i need of new vanos solenoids, but its better to prove it first.

Car has 158k. I use Castro's 5w30 synthetic with Mann Hummel filters. I change every 5000. My car is also tuned. It also sound like the tune could be cutting in and out with the wot issue. Lol there is so many ideas and issues it could be!

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

Car has 158k. I use Castro's 5w30 synthetic with Mann Hummel filters. I change every 5000. My car is also tuned. It also sound like the tune could be cutting in and out with the wot issue. Lol there is so many ideas and issues it could be!

1st Disconnect the maf, engine should run smooth without this.

Next Disconnect the eccentric shaft motor, the engine should also run smooth without this.

My plan of attack here is shutdown all the systems till the car runs smooth. Then bring them back to see which one is faulty.

I believe vanos does not function for the first 60 seconds of startup if not longer.

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

1st Disconnect the maf, engine should run smooth without this.

Next Disconnect the eccentric shaft motor, the engine should also run smooth without this.

My plan of attack here is shutdown all the systems till the car runs smooth. Then bring them back to see which one is faulty.

Okay I will give that try tmrw! Preciate it

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

1st Disconnect the maf, engine should run smooth without this.

Next Disconnect the eccentric shaft motor, the engine should also run smooth without this.

My plan of attack here is shutdown all the systems till the car runs smooth. Then bring them back to see which one is faulty.

I believe vanos does not function for the first 60 seconds of startup if not longer.

So I disconnected the maf and it wouldn't even start up. It would just choke out on startup. So is it bad maf?

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

So I disconnected the maf and it wouldn't even start up. It would just choke out on startup. So is it bad maf?

Engine should run without it. Can your tune be disabled? What tune is it/ from what company?

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

Engine should run without it. Can your tune be disabled? What tune is it/ from what company?

Do u mean like take out the whole maf sensor? I just unplugged it. And stagefp tune

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

Do u mean like take out the whole maf sensor? I just unplugged it. And stagefp tune

No just unplugged. The engine goes into open loop fail safe and should run via software fuel maps. If it doesnt run in fail safe there is an issue elsewhere. You might want to shoot an email to the tuner also with your issues.

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

No just unplugged. The engine goes into open loop fail safe and should run via software fuel maps. If it doesnt run in fail safe there is an issue elsewhere. You might want to shoot an email to the tuner also with your issues.

So what is your ideas now? Cause it would not run with it unplugged

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by wayman519

No just unplugged. The engine goes into open loop fail safe and should run via software fuel maps. If it doesnt run in fail safe there is an issue elsewhere. You might want to shoot an email to the tuner also with your issues.

Did you get MILVS lift mod done?

[wayman519]

Originally Posted by wayman519

Did you get MILVS lift mod done?

Plug the maf back, start the engine. Then shut it off after confirming it runs again.

Shit check if your vanos cables are swapped!!!!

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by wayman519

Plug the maf back, start the engine. Then shut it off after confirming it runs again.

Shit check if your vanos cables are swapped!!!!

No I do not have milvs upgrade. I swapped the solenoid about 2 weeks ago and the cables are in the right spot . I also cleaned them

[tsosby20]

Originally Posted by tsosby20

No I do not have milvs upgrade. I swapped the solenoid about 2 weeks ago and the cables are in the right spot . I also cleaned them

This is after I unplugged and plugged maf back in

[tsosby20]

These are the codes after I got back from driving with no maf. Plugged back in. I was able to crank it up and drive it with no maf this time. Couldn't really tell if it was still making the issue or not since it just kinda randomly does it. My vanos solenoid are at "0" and "0" now since swapping them and cleaning a week ago