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320si owners. Engine oil?
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11-19-2011, 07:38 PM | #23 |
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320si Cracked Liners
Hello everyone,
I am also an owner of a 320si for the last 5+ years (I bought the car new), and I am also very worried about the cracked liners problem Here in Cyprus approx 9 cars were sold new by the dealer and unfortunately 2 of them cracked at around 120 000km or 135 000km. As I now the dealer or the factory did not do anything to help them and one of them awaits a new block from the factory and the repair will cost approx. 6000 euro (of course he told me that he will sell the car and he will never buy a BMW ever again) As for my car it has 87 000km up to now and I had no problem yet. The only thing if I can be any helpfull about the cold start problem, is that it exists during the First start up during winter days, it gets worse with higher octane fuels (I use 100 oct since I bought it because it is a cleaner and of higher quality fuel than the common 95 oct). The way I use to help my engine is that as soon as the engine starts and revs up to 1500 revs, I slightly press the accelerator pedal in order not to allow the engine to return to idle and keep it at around 1500 rpm for a sec or two. It actually solves the problem on my engine (but it has to be precisely at 1500 rpm in order to solve it) As for the oil used, I used until 48 000km the factory oil (bought from spare parts BMW LL04 5w 30), and after that I use the Fuchs GT1 PRO FLEX 5w 30 every 10 000km. The oil consumption is not more than 1 Litre per 10 000km. In order to accomodate for the oil consumption I add 300ml oil per 3 000km, so when I measure the oil drained is always correct. The addition of oil is essential. With 4.2 Litres in the engine (200ml shall be the oil in the filter and engine surfaces) if you wait for the add 1 Litre message to appear, then the engine operates only with 3 Litres which is very wrong in my opinion. Note that According to Fuchs an amound of 4.5 Litres i.o 4.2 should be used. |
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08-13-2012, 02:01 PM | #24 |
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urgent need help
I JUST BOUGHT MY BMW E90 320SI ON CLOCK HAS ONLY 59000KM
MORNING START I GOT PROBLEM THE FIRST START THE CAR TURN OFF THE SECOND START I NEED TO IDDLE OVER 1000RPM AFTER THE CAR START I NEED TO WAIT FOR 10 SECOND OR 1MIN WAITING THE CAR TEMPERATURE GOES UP WARM. BUT IN TIME THE CAR SHAKING !!WHILE IT WARM.!!! I TAKE THE CAR TO BMW DEALER AGENCY I CHANGE OIL AND OILD FILTER AND THEY DIAGNOSTIC THE CAR NO FAULT DETECTED! 1/I WANT TO KNOW WHY MY CAR IN THE MORNING SHAKING AND TURNF OFF ? 2/WHEN I DRIVE ON LOW REVO IDDLE WHEN I IDDLE AROUND 1CM ON THE PEDAL ACCELARATOR THE CAR GOES OFF I NEED TO IDDLE AROUND 1000 OR 1500 FOR THE CAR GOES NORMALY I BOUGHT AND PUT NEW SPARK PLUG SAME AS MENTION ON USER MANUAL! IRIDIUM BOSCH PLEASE HELP ME! PLEASE EMAIL ME OR CALL ME ON MY MOBILE EXPLIAN ME WHAT TO DO! sportydriveshop@hotmail.co.uk 2302570890 |
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09-16-2012, 02:40 PM | #25 |
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help me please
BMW E90 320 SI ON CLOCK 60000 NOW.
MORNING START ENGINE SHAKE AND SOMETIME TURN ENGINE OFF. EXCHAUST SOUND POK POK... ! I WANT TO KNOW WHAT IS THE PROBLEM! sometime when i drive at low iddle it missfire., i change spark plug no result i change oil 5w40 by bmw agency no result i check coil no fault on DIAGNOSTIC or unplug one by one. as seen on youtube.com. no result all coil o.k want to know what is the problem !!! when i press acelarator pedal on idle 1cm the engine seem missfire or air leak ! but i check no leak! sportydriveshop@hotmail.co.uk |
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02-08-2013, 05:56 AM | #26 |
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far too many of these engines are breaking down after very little usage. My fathers pride and joy is currently in the Local Dealers ( where he bought the car used and serviced it as required) The symptoms are very similar to the ones posted above. The stealers are suggesting it might be the gasket but they really don't know whats happening.
Their ( BMW) advice is expect a bill to run into several thousands. For car hes has done about 20K miles in ( 44K total) My dad has had his 320 si for 3 years now every six months its been back the the steelers for something. Last year the car died due to the ignition going. this resulted in a huge bill. the Whole steering column had to be replaced as " its all connected" I'm very concerned this Car was rushed out with little research & development just so BMW could enter a race. The engine seems to be it's achilles heel. Its not the same as most of the engines you would expect to find in a 320 bmw. When you do a search for "BMW 320si Engine" many people have have bad issues resulting in engines replaced under warranty or for the unlucky ones rebuilds sometimes more than once. The 320 Si was only produces in very small numbers 2600 worldwide with 500 going to the UK. Bad starting problems seem to be the start of the cylinders going. the Valves seem to need constant adjustment. I'm not sure BMW mechanics even understand the differences between this lightweight Aluminium and hte regular engine fitted to most other BMW's. My Questions is is there a list of 320si 's that have had engine failure? What was the outcome in the problems related to the engine? Who do I contact to talk in BMW? Cheers |
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02-11-2013, 06:01 PM | #27 |
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bmw n45 engine
Hello BMW 320SI OWNERS IVE BEEN DOING SOME RESEARCH ON THE N45 ENGINE AND ITS NOT GOOD NEWS, ITS SEEMS THERE IS VERY LITTLE YOU CAN DO TO STOP THEM EATING CYLINDER LINERS, THE PROBLEM IS IN THE DESIGN OF THE ENGINE. THE THRUST ANGLE OF THE RODS IS NOT GOOD AND THIS EATS LINERS
ALL I CAN ADVISE IS THAT YOU USE QUALITY OIL AND MAKE SURE OIL HAS REACHED ITS TEMP BEFORE ANY HARD USE. IF YOU ARE THINKING OF BUYING A BMW 320SI DONT GREAT CAR BUT THE WORST ENGINE BMW EVER BUILT Last edited by bmw vln; 02-11-2013 at 07:33 PM.. |
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08-16-2013, 06:27 AM | #28 |
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Dear member BMW Vln.
Since what you are claiming is very serious, please post your findings and how you reached these conclusions. In forums you will ONLY read about problems and broken engines. You will never see all 2.600 320si owners worldwide posting their mileage and opinions. You will only read about broken engines. So let's say 10 cases are far from calling this a manufacture error! I believe that si's are breaking down due to very poor maintenance, BMW service centers failure in properly maintaining this engine and owners not knowing how to deal with this engine. I know si's with over 100.000km and not a single issue. My si has 47.000 km and has not had any problems. Why? Because I take very very very very good care of it keeping in mind that this is an aluminum cylinder block and that this is a very very very special engine. This means: Careful and slow warm up of the engine. Always using antifreeze and not distilled water cause if the temperature will fall below zero the cylinders will crack. So when you start the car, keep in mind that you cannot use full power before 30 mins of careful warm up. It's useful to look at the secret menu's coolant temp. Also, some si's have had problems with the thermostat. This means that the thermostat never shuts down, keeping the engine at far lower than specified temp. So if someone was to give full power hoping that the engine oil would be warm enough would be mistaken! So always check your coolant temp keeping in mind that the si's radiator is larger than usual. It has a radiator from a 6 cylinder! Engine oil is also very very important! I use castrol edge 0w40 fst and I change it every year or 8-9000 km! Never take you oil change intervals over a year or 10.000 km! Use higher octane gas, preferably 98 octane. This car does not have valvetronic and some owners don't know, as they have never been told, that their valves need checking every 40-50.000 km! Furthermore, change spark plugs with si specific spark plugs every 40.000 km! Also, check with your dealer if your si must do the timing belt tensioner recall. Mine has gone though it. Finally, check your engine's compression regularly. I do all the above and my car is running more than fine with virtually no issues at all! The engine is magnificent, do not worry, as long as you treat it with care and maintain it more than properly.
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08-16-2013, 06:52 AM | #29 |
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I'm all for letting an engine warm up before pushing it...but what is the point of a performance engine you can't use for 30 minutes?!!! Sounds a little excessive to me...
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08-16-2013, 07:10 AM | #30 | |
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To reverse your question, what's the point in revving a cold engine at 7.000 rpm? Why the hurry? Since this car has a larger radiator than a regular 4cyl 320i it will take a bit longer than usual, depending on outside temperature of course. So one should always check the coolant temp in the secret menu. This is special engine and needs special care.
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08-26-2013, 05:10 PM | #31 |
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320si Mileage update
Up to now my 320si reached 114500Km and no problems at all.
Try to keep oil consumption as low as possible so the engine has always plenty of oil (>4.5Ltrs) to run. Since si engines may consume oil then add every 3000Km the consumed oil qty (never add more than 10% of total oil into engine to let the blending process work, sorry but the bmw' s add 1 ltr warning alarm is wrong and harms engines especially 4 cylinder ones which operate with 4.25 liters. DO NOT allow the si engine to operate with 3.25Ltrs) Therefore after three additions of minor quantities of oil (the process is called sweetening since it repairs the TBN of the oil thus helps engine internal parts) an oil/filter change follows at Max 10000Km as Nicos said. If no oil consumption is evident then the engine is in the best shape. Try to measure the oil removed. Do not trust the oil level indicator since it may not indicate an oil consumption. As for the warming up process indeed you need a lot of time (>15min normal driving) or better more than 10Km of driving into motorway having the engine max 3500revs (remember that the S54 engine used on M3s needs A lot of time until it allows for a full throttle--N45B20S engine is based on S54 with 2 cylinders less and of course all aluminum) All above of course is just for prevention since we all know for the existing problem with the liners. BMW indeed changed the cylinder block, crankshaft, and crankshaft connecting rods part numbers in mid 2010. Therefore cross fingers for all owners since a new block is needed complete with crankshaft and pistons if the liners crack. |
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10-08-2013, 02:05 PM | #32 | |
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03-08-2014, 10:59 AM | #33 | |
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But it is better to wait some more time for the oil to warm up for a full throttle operation. During that time the oil cooler/preheater operates as an oil preheater and after oil temperature rises > approx. 65-80ºC the oil cooler acts as an oil cooler. Overall the 320si is a very good pack but BMW engines lack of long life and mileage. |
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04-11-2014, 02:17 AM | #34 | |
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some thoughts about oil: I tested a few companies, Mobil1 new life - sucks Castrol Edge 0W40 - suck Motul x-something 0W40 sucks Now I have 5w30 royal purple HPS and its good maximum oil change interval at 8000K Do not drive on half the oil in the sensor, check the level very often because Unfortunately, the sensor is not very accurate minimum amount for me is a 3/4 on board comp., although the rules of thumb I've already pouring another 100ml Pour another think a good addition to the coolant ... |
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03-10-2015, 11:39 AM | #36 |
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Drives: 2006 BMW 320si
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Hi all,
Sorry to revive an old thread but I just wanted to see how everyone's engines had faired in the past couple of years? I haven't long bought my 320si and it seems to be going through engine oil at a hell of rate, so it's very concerning that a lot of you have seen effectively zero oil use. I went to my dealer to ask what type of oil I SHOULD be using in the car, as I bought it from an independent who I assume has used the wrong type of oil. They replied with fully synth 5w-30, which I had a hunch was wrong, and judging by the comments here, I should be using 0w-40? I have emailed BMW UK to ask but I'm still waiting to hear back. What was really worrying as after explaining to the dealer that it was the handbuilt N54 engine, he then proceeded to ask me if it was a diesel... Not impressed! Any other ownership tips would be greatly appreciated, seems like a fair few of you have had time to spot any potential minefields! Thanks, Mike
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03-10-2015, 01:47 PM | #37 | |
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I'm not aware of any cars ever sold as 20 that were built on the N54 engine block. All of them are on the N52/N53 blocks. In any case, BMW has only two oil specs: LL-01 & LL-04 for the gas/petrol/diesel engines, and another for the M engines (S-54, S65, etc.) See http://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-BMW-Engine-Codes.aspx |
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03-10-2015, 04:33 PM | #38 |
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I tried to ask in an OIL guru forum. But don’t know if I got any wiser
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...06#Post3509082 I did end up filling up with Castrol Edge 0W-40 LL-01 after the initial break in period on AMSoil break-in-oil-SAE30. Since this is not the ultimate smooth oil like the "new ones". But still gives some break in criteria and don’t polish the rings/liners to fast. Then after about 5000 miles I switch to one that has higher oil film strength. LL-01 or LL-04... I don’t know yet But 0w-30 still sounds like a bad idea in my old ears when you hit the rev. regularly. Even though I know the new oils basics has better strength then old oils. Last edited by Jan E.; 03-10-2015 at 04:45 PM.. |
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07-20-2020, 03:58 PM | #39 |
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BMW 320si 2006 90k on the clock
hi all,
that's the only convo i found so far about 320si, i can see it's bit old thread, but i will try my luck. i live in UK, got few questions, where do you service your BMW's, or do you service them yourselves? if you do, i can't lol not enough knowledge. i am hearing different advises about servicing the BMW's, some people say go to halfords, or go to kwik fit, usually people say don't go direct to BMW for service, otherwise it's too expensive? could you let me know your thoughts please? honestly can't decide. anything else i should look for on 320si, or any tips, appreciated in advance dmnk. |
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