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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Compression test
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03-27-2018, 02:36 PM | #1 |
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Compression test
Which fuse or relay is best to pull to shut off hpfp? The generic paper in my fusebox is about useless, and uncle google aint much help either. I need to inspect injectors also but want to do a compression test first. Also shoukd i use tge injector hole or the glow plug hole?
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03-27-2018, 09:10 PM | #3 |
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Yeah I got it......got a little jumper button from Harbor freight.....SOOOOO worth the 10 bucks. Unfortunately I have a valve issue in the #4 cylinder....read 260 but it was huffing and puffing out the exhaust so 1 or more must be bent and not sealing. Guess its off with the head this weekend. BOOOOOO!!!!!!
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03-27-2018, 09:16 PM | #4 |
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Hmmm that's a odd failure. It'll be interesting to see what you find when you pull it apart.
I just replaced timing chains etc so, if you have any questions, let me know. |
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03-27-2018, 11:13 PM | #8 |
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Did you do a leak down or a compression check? If you checked compression, the gauges have a shrader valve which is why the pressure increases on the gauge.
You’ll have air escaping the cylinders when the engine is cranking as designed. If you did a leak down, which would require you to put the piston at TDC, then see if you have air entering the exhaust, intake or crank case. Sounds to me your compression test went fine. What were the numbers for each cylinder? |
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03-28-2018, 08:21 AM | #9 |
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They were all at 300-340 except #4 it only went to 260 and it was forcing air out of the square intake port. Thats why i figured it was a bent or stuck valve. I didnt do a leak down per say.....but i did let it sit for a few minutes and they held steady. I was using a cheap harbor freight kit so not sure of the accuracy but almost 100 psi from highest to lowest cant be good.
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03-28-2018, 09:02 AM | #10 |
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Yea, that cylinder isn’t good. I wonder if you cracked a piston or something
Did you oil the cylinder and see if the numbers changed? Last edited by 335dsleeper; 03-28-2018 at 09:07 AM.. |
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03-28-2018, 11:12 AM | #12 |
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03-28-2018, 11:25 AM | #13 |
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I know.....im just hoping for the best. I did have an oh shit moment last night when doing the comp test.....had the injector bracket upside down so when i spun the motor it showed 0 compression talk about a sick feeling.....then as i was taking it out i realized that i was an idiot. Ill try the oil testing friday.
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03-30-2018, 08:48 AM | #15 |
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Any of you guys got a guide i can use.....ive searched youtube. Im sure its about like any other one but sometimes there are some tips or a heads up about some bolt or nut or clip that you just dont see. Hopefully teardown tonight.
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03-30-2018, 11:49 AM | #16 |
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I don’t have a guide but, there is info scattered across the web. Keep in mind that there’s a lot of stuff to remove. Removing the head is a pretty large job.
Here are a few recommendations. 1.) take pictures throughout the process and when removing certain parts to ensure reassembly is efficient. 2.) bag and label small parts, nuts, bolts etc. lots of similar sized/ looking bolts. I know I got a few mixed up when I reassembled mine. 3.) do not remove the vacuum pump flange in front of the exhaust cam. Leave that on the head. DO NOT attempt to remove the two torx studs. 4.) lastly, if I were to pull the head or go as deep into my engine as I did recently, I’d drop the subframe on a cart. If you have access to a lift, I think you’ll save a lot of time and frustration if you just drop the engine, tranny and subframe. |
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03-30-2018, 12:19 PM | #17 |
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I do have it on a lift......interesting idea there.....ill talk it over with my buddy tonight.....its his house and lift. We BOTH have 2011 Ds....working on his is what made me get one. Anyways. Thanks for the tip...hopefully itll go smoothly.
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03-30-2018, 09:59 PM | #18 |
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Got it mostly apart....jeesus what a bunch crap to take off. Question? How in the world does the timing chain and stuff come off without a cover? Seems like kind of a PITA. No option to take out the bottom, different lift type. Still need to take belts and front end stuff loose, guess ill get a better idea of how its all together when I get all that off, so far no obvious failures and still VERY clean for over 100k.
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03-30-2018, 10:34 PM | #19 |
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I don’t understand your question. “Timing chain without a cover”
In order to remove the timing chain, you need to remove the access plug for the tensioner. Then, you need to put a wrench on the exhaust camshaft and turn it counterclockwise. That will compress the tensioner and you’ll be able to pin it. Once it’s pinned you can remove the two Allen guide pins that secure the upper guides. Then, and once you’ve confirmed cylinder one is TDC in the compression stroke, you can remove the cam sprocket bolts and timing chain. Then you can loosen the cap caps (slowly. 1/2 turn per bolt at a time). Once the cams are out of the way you’ll need to remove the rockers. Then you can loosen the cylinder head bolts. |
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03-31-2018, 04:25 PM | #21 |
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03-31-2018, 06:23 PM | #22 |
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So how did you get all that crap loose? Having a hard time getting the charge pipe out. How far did you break the turbos down? Did you remove the plate the AC attaches to?
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