[kenship]

Hi, I thought I solved my problem but it seems got worse.

I installed the unit last week over a base stereo system.

Sound works well for 2 days then suddenly none after a small pop. A few hours later I power it on again and the sound came back, only a little 2 minutes later it starts cracking and hissing.

I switched back to factory unit, only to find that during the various tests I almost blew my speakers, basically now it will run for a while then suddenly one side will go out, then after a while it will come back, but I think it's dying anyway.

After many powering on and off here's what I have:
After a few minutes powering on, the sound will crack and hiss then blast into high volume of pitch, lowering the volume has no effect until it's none (no sound).

I believe the head unit has gone bad, I might power the unit at home and try to hear from the audio out to see.

But I want to hear any advice to see whether it's my Eonon head unit, the harness or even the car that is giving my trouble.

Any comment is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Kenneth

[flgfish]

I'm not that familiar with your system architecture. Sounds like an external amp issue, not a head unit issue, if you're having output issues with both head units....

I tried putting an Eonon in a GMC Acadia several years ago. First two were DOA before I got one that "worked". It was a piece of crap... slow to boot, buggy software, etc. Just awful to use. Ripped it out & went with a Pioneer that was flawless. Good luck!

[kenship]

There's no amplifier in a base stereo system.

[flgfish]

So it's 2 bad head units then?
I'd bench test the Eonon. You can use a PC power supply for 12V.

[kenship]

Originally Posted by flgfish

So it's 2 bad head units then?
I'd bench test the Eonon. You can use a PC power supply for 12V.

Bench tested test the Eonon unit and here's the findings:

Tested pre-out - no issue
Tested with 2 speakers (BMW Base stereo speakers, 4 ohms) - no issue

When unit is running in car the unit is very hot even after a few minutes, however when output to 2 speakers only the unit can run for an hour with reasonable heat.

So I'm thinking whether the speakers in car is drawing too much and the unit couldn't handle it and broke into cracks and buzz. Currently I have 2 Logic 7 fronts with 2 tweeters souring from the fronts, 2 factory rears and supposingly 2 under seats.

[kenship]

As a follow up, I will be receiving a replacement motherboard from Eonon.

[Canuck335]

Wow not good news. My Eonon GA9165B died as well. They are sending a new one.. once they manufacture a new one for me.

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by Canuck335

Wow not good news. My Eonon GA9165B died as well. They are sending a new one.. once they manufacture a new one for me.

What happened in your case?

[Canuck335]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

What happened in your case?

It just died.
I tried their reset instructions (hold down power button, press reset for 1 second, release reset, then release power button). Didn't work.

kenship did you check your speakers and wiring for shorts?

[kenship]

In my case, the factory unit runs fine, so I ruled out short in factory wire.

Also when my unit was running it got extremely hot in a short period of time, then it started cracking and blasting.

What's interesting is I powered the unit at home with 2 factory speakers, no problem, it seems it's not able to handle 4 speakers + 2 tweeters + 2 under seat woofers. I might try remove the 2 rears to test then remove the woofers as well to see.

Unit is also fine doing pre-out.

Kenneth

Originally Posted by Canuck335

It just died.
I tried their reset instructions (hold down power button, press reset for 1 second, release reset, then release power button). Didn't work.

kenship did you check your speakers and wiring for shorts?

[Canuck335]

Originally Posted by kenship

In my case, the factory unit runs fine, so I ruled out short in factory wire.

Kenneth

I'm speculating here (maybe someone else can chime in) but maybe the OEM head unit has protection circuitry built in? So perhaps the short is there but the HU is shutting down the bad channel?

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by Canuck335

I'm speculating here (maybe someone else can chime in) but maybe the OEM head unit has protection circuitry built in? So perhaps the short is there but the HU is shutting down the bad channel?

I'm not an expert and can't confirm, but I don't think that's the issue. If there was a short in the factory wiring, I think we'd see some symptoms even with the OEM HU back in.

[kenship]

I'm not saying no to your speculation but I just don't know.

As far as I can hear, all channels are working with the factory HU. FWIW, I have:

2 fronts, 2 tweeters, 2 underseat subs and 2 rears. If I'm running factory I hear sound from all of them.

Now I disconnected the rears a few days ago and ran it with Eonon, after a few min. the unit became super hot again and blasted.

So, if I can find some time again, I may try to disconnect the sub and see.

What I don't know if how the woofers are powered, is it front or is it rear I don't know.

Originally Posted by Canuck335

I'm speculating here (maybe someone else can chime in) but maybe the OEM head unit has protection circuitry built in? So perhaps the short is there but the HU is shutting down the bad channel?

[Ali-E90]

Originally Posted by kenship

What I don't know if how the woofers are powered, is it front or is it rear I don't know.

Factory wiring includes the woofers as part of the front stage. Usually full range signal goes under the seats through a set of passive filters to separate bass from mids/high, which are then sent to the woofers and doors respectively.

I forgot the overall impedance of the base speakers, but it could be contributing to the issue if OEM load is 2-ohm, and the HU is only rated for 4-ohm.

[kenship]

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

Factory wiring includes the woofers as part of the front stage. Usually full range signal goes under the seats through a set of passive filters to separate bass from mids/high, which are then sent to the woofers and doors respectively.

I forgot the overall impedance of the base speakers, but it could be contributing to the issue if OEM load is 2-ohm, and the HU is only rated for 4-ohm.

I thought about the 2 vs 4 ohm issue as well. I can't confirm but based on RealOEM and other readings I think the sub is 4-ohm. That means all speakers are the same. But until I open it up I'm not 100%.

[Ali-E90]

My factory speakers are long lost in my basement storage, but if I can easily find them (doubtful) I'll report back.

[Canuck335]

I would get a digital multimeter and check all speaker pairs, at the Eonon connector.
After all that's what the Eonon sees.

[kenship]

That's interesting. I tested from the unit but didn't do so from the speaker pairs.

Originally Posted by Canuck335

I would get a digital multimeter and check all speaker pairs, at the Eonon connector.
After all that's what the Eonon sees.

[Canuck335]

Originally Posted by kenship

I thought about the 2 vs 4 ohm issue as well. I can't confirm but based on RealOEM and other readings I think the sub is 4-ohm. That means all speakers are the same. But until I open it up I'm not 100%.

If I'm reading newtis correctly the mid-range and subwoofers are wired in parallel. It's quite possible the speakers themselves are 4-ohm but the presented load is closer to 2 ohms.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/jbdIe6r

[kenship]

Thanks.

So this is going beyond my knowledge. But since last week I have suspected that the unit was overheating due to load from speakers. Is this what you're saying here?

Originally Posted by Canuck335

If I'm reading newtis correctly the mid-range and subwoofers are wired in parallel. It's quite possible the speakers themselves are 4-ohm but the presented load is closer to 2 ohms.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/jbdIe6r

[Canuck335]

Originally Posted by kenship

Thanks.

So this is going beyond my knowledge. But since last week I have suspected that the unit was overheating due to load from speakers. Is this what you're saying here?

Yeah, pretty much. Overheating and crackling pretty much means there's too much current somewhere.

Do you know if the Eonon's subwoofer outputs run separately to the car's sub's?

[kenship]

Right! So that proves my theory all along.

So the EONON has 6 RCA outs for front, rear and sub for amp. connection.

However if using factory plug, there's no separation for sub and therefore the amp is overloaded eventually.

Now what I'm not sure is this: For the 2 days I ran the unit it was fine. I did smell something but wasn't sure. I would guess that the motherboard was being fried in this case. Not sure if a new motherboard would solve the problem.

For now I probably will disconnect from sub until I wire for amp.

Thanks a lot!

Originally Posted by Canuck335

Yeah, pretty much. Overheating and crackling pretty much means there's too much current somewhere.

Do you know if the Eonon's subwoofer outputs run separately to the car's sub's?