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      11-20-2018, 03:58 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTinline-six View Post
This.

Also any BMW LL-01 approved oil would work great. My personal favorite is Castrol Euro 0w40 because it is cheap and easy to find at WalMart.
Same here. I don't know why that oil is almost never mentioned! It's LL01 spec, great viscosity for any environment and good pricing.

Last edited by TheMidnightNarwhal; 11-20-2018 at 04:03 PM..
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      11-20-2018, 04:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
Let me say that i am one of the most outspoken critic of BMW reliability. And i totally agree with you for everything you have said except for DYI. BMW are actually surprisingly friendly DIY platforms. Lots of documentation and tools to diagnose. And replacing parts is not bad at all. Easier than Japanese in my opinion.
Exactly! I'm surprised every time someone says DIY is hard. Okay it might be long in that you have to remove X panel, X part before accessing the part you want to replace but with all the resources and easy to get BMW software I don't see the problem.
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      11-20-2018, 04:02 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Don't take my word, educate yourself.
Why would we listen to someone one a forum instead of the owner's manual.

Unless you can provide proof of your claim of course, I'm not going to go out there and lose time researching it myself
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      11-20-2018, 04:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
I will just go ahead and follow BMWs specifications. I dont like to re-invent wheels.
Yeah and by that logic, one should never change their transmission fluid either since it is "lifetime" fluid.
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      11-20-2018, 04:34 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
Why would we listen to someone one a forum instead of the owner's manual.

Unless you can provide proof of your claim of course, I'm not going to go out there and lose time researching it myself

Yeah well owners manual have info that is to benefit BMW in a lot of different ways and often is has nothing to do with what is best or what the engineers would decide to have in it. Oil choices are made for lot's of reasons (meeting fuel mileage standards, lowering cost of ownership numbers, etc) that have nothing to do with what is the best for performance. Lot's of things change when you start adding power so recommended service intervals should change as well. The LL (long life) spec is just that, it's test created to ensure the oil meets the test specs so that the oil can survive the BMW CBS oil change intervals. But yeah if you are stock feel free to follow it, and if you have an auto let me know how that ATF looks past 100,000 miles.
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      11-20-2018, 06:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Yeah well owners manual have info that is to benefit BMW in a lot of different ways and often is has nothing to do with what is best or what the engineers would decide to have in it. Oil choices are made for lot's of reasons (meeting fuel mileage standards, lowering cost of ownership numbers, etc) that have nothing to do with what is the best for performance. Lot's of things change when you start adding power so recommended service intervals should change as well. The LL (long life) spec is just that, it's test created to ensure the oil meets the test specs so that the oil can survive the BMW CBS oil change intervals. But yeah if you are stock feel free to follow it, and if you have an auto let me know how that ATF looks past 100,000 miles.
Bud the thing is LL-01 oil is everywhere.. why make it complicated ?
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      11-20-2018, 07:03 PM   #29
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There is an entire thread on here of what oil to use for the N54, just look there if your curious
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      11-20-2018, 07:04 PM   #30
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The 2011 is a n55 why does everyone keep saying n54
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      11-22-2018, 02:17 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by DCzyzewski15 View Post
Purchasing a 2011 335i xDrive with 50k miles.

- Rotors, pads, and fluid flush replaced
- Water pump replaced
- Thermostat replaced

What else should I check for and replace?
What oil would you recommend to use for oil changes?
My biggest lesson with the E90 is learning that low mileage and new age doesn't mean squat when it comes to issues. In past BMWs (E36/E46) the best advice was always to buy the lowest mileage/newest car from whatever series you are looking at. With the E90 here is why this is a myth!

My 2011 335i just passed the 50k mark and I'm having all sorts of silly premature issues that I never got on my previous E36/E46 BMW 3 series before those cars hit 100k miles.

I'm the second owner and purchased my pristine (May 2011-production date) 335i xDrive in Feb 2016 with 40k miles on it at the time.

Like the first owner, I've cared for, and serviced, my 2011 335i well and my only vice is I never have time to drive it so it is parked 5 days to 6 days a week.

Here are my issues. Since the car you are buying will be the same age and mileage as mine.

1. Battery keeps dying. Needs to be replaced ($485 dealership/$300+ Indy) Even if you do it yourself batteries are like $200+ for our cars and then you still have to code it to the car ($40 to $100 depending on who you know). Low mileage cars often translate into a car that was sitting parked for long stretches and you can expect weak batteries that need recharging/replacing.

2. Run Flat Tires…too many issues to list. Dealership wanted $1300 to replace them I declined and switched to Continental DWS06 ($105 a tire) and dropped in a spare donut ($100) in the trunk. If your car comes with them get rid of them.

3. Oil leaks like I've never seen before on a pre-50k mileage 5 year old car. At 40k my 335i's oil filter housing gasket had a mild saturation old stain. Now at 50k every time I start the car the gasket pours out a spoonful of oil directly onto the belts and pulleys below. I also suspect the main gasket is also toast because of the oil around the lower engine block area. My 1995 E36 went up to 150k miles and almost 20 years on the road without a single leaky gasket. My 2001 330i almost went to 100k miles 15 years on the road before I replaced the filter housing and engine cover gaskets. To have my 2011 E90 leak oil like faucet at 40k miles and 4 miles on the road is absurd! Dealership wanted $1200 for this work. $400 to $600 Indy. $15 and 1 - 2 hr DIY-since the price of the gasket is $10 to $15.

4. Tensioner Pulleys failing at 50k Another absurd thing to go out on a such a young low mileage car. Poorly designed pulleys should last 80k to 100k. Good pulleys don't whistle and whine until well after 100k. In fact my belt is still good but the pulleys are not. In what world are you replacing pulleys before belts. SMH!

4. I've also gotten the dreaded imminent Water Pump Failure warning on my dash. Again another absurd thing to fail on such a young low mileage car. Especially considering the water pumps on these cars, at $1800 to $2000 ($1000 indy/$500 DIY), are by far the most expensive (and time consuming if you DIY) thing you can replace outside of a full transmission or full engine swap. The lesser engineered and simpler water pumps never failed on my previous two BMW. Being my first BMWs those were cars I'd driven harder to 100k for my E46 miles and 165k miles for my E36 and not one coolant issue. I don't even want to spend money replacing the water pump with another pump which will fail in another 50k/4-5 years of driving!

5. A lot of my gripes mainly come from the fact that I've owned older BMW 3 Series and can compare my experiences between the three cars. That said the E90 LCI takes the cake when it comes to BMW cutting corners in production. If you take into account production eras these E90 LCI are not even close to luxury cars they way early BMW 3 series lined up with other cars from their eras. The main saving grace is the N55/N54 engines are a marvel to sit behind especially when paired with one of the best suspension and handling systems (xDrive ftw) compared to the older 3 Series. Fuel economy is also pretty decent much better in fact than my 4 cylinder 1995 318i.

GOOD NEWS:
Oil Changes are only $70 at the BMW Dealership and they will wash and vacuum the interior for free and offer free diagnosis of things you may need done. Which you will then want to decline when you hear the outrageous pricing of $172 for an Air Intake Silencer ($10 air filter that takes less than a minute to pop in yourself), $520 for spark plugs, $1300 for tires, $2153 for water pump, $1200 for oil filter gasket, or $483 for a battery, etc…

Also the E90 is said to be the last true "drivers" 3 series due to its Spartan engineering and simple driver to engine to road connection when compared to the F30.
So dive in and buy one. However don't expect these cars to be DIY friendly and keep $5,000 stored in your savings account for BMW repairs.


Knowing what I know now would I buy my car again? Would I buy it now-like you are? NO I would not. My best part of owning BMWs were having the ability to DIY stuff and fix things myself. The E90 doesn't really allow this (unless you literally have a well stock auto shop in your garage at home complete with Floor Plate Car lift since most of the service DIY things from changing fog lamps and some headlamp bulbs to water pump replacement will have you working under the car for hours at a time.

I also measure driving pleasure against ownership pain when it comes to BMWs and the E90 with it's premature failings of basic wear and tear items tips the scale towards ownership pain in my experience.
U don't drive it enough
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      11-22-2018, 11:10 AM   #32
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my car is 2011 335I xdrive too and my fuel pump failed at 30k miles and ofhg leaked which I did myself and last month the coolant reservoir leaked at 51k miles.
and forgot to mention the weatherstripping around the windshield was replaced too
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      11-23-2018, 09:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
Bud the thing is LL-01 oil is everywhere.. why make it complicated ?
Anytime you highly modify a vehicle you are making things complicated. But like I said, if you are staying stock and want to follow the owners manual then have at it, no one is stopping you. But to try an argue that the owners manual is always right, is just silly.
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      11-23-2018, 12:57 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Anytime you highly modify a vehicle you are making things complicated. But like I said, if you are staying stock and want to follow the owners manual then have at it, no one is stopping you. But to try an argue that the owners manual is always right, is just silly.
He is buying a new car he is a new member. People usually prefer to keep things simple at the start. I said nothing about manuals or highly modified cars. And the op too said nothing about highly modified cars.

So i understand what you are saying but it just does not apply here.

Companies spend a fortune getting licensing from BMW to sell the LL-01 spec. There is so much scientific work in the background and to put it all down and say it means nothing ...

There are alot of nonsense things from the manual but oil spec is not one.
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      11-23-2018, 05:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
He is buying a new car he is a new member. People usually prefer to keep things simple at the start. I said nothing about manuals or highly modified cars. And the op too said nothing about highly modified cars.

So i understand what you are saying but it just does not apply here.

Companies spend a fortune getting licensing from BMW to sell the LL-01 spec. There is so much scientific work in the background and to put it all down and say it means nothing ...

There are alot of nonsense things from the manual but oil spec is not one.

Uh, he owns a 330i already and has been here a while and he has been eyeing a 335i for a at least a year as far as I can see. As for people usually keeping it simple at the start, that is another one of your baseless opinions as many people mod their cars almost immediately.

This is a car forum and I can assure you most come here initially for two reasons and that is to find mods or to find a fix to a problem they have.

Also, you have no idea what the test to meet the LL01 spec is or what it cost to complete those test to get the certification. And I never said the recommended oil spec is nonsense, it's just a recommendation that is given for bean counting reasons, regulatory reasons, and liability reasons.
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      11-23-2018, 09:59 PM   #36
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I really don't see the point of buying a 335i and keeping it stock. Assuming the original owner(s) did which I doubt. Unlike NA cars, turbo cars beg to be modded. Reliability is not synonymous with the N54. So you might as well go town with mods. I mean if you have to mutter a prayer each time you start it up, at least you have 450hp underneath that may or may not show up.
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      11-26-2018, 09:02 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Also, you have no idea what the test to meet the LL01 spec is or what it cost to complete those test to get the certification. And I never said the recommended oil spec is nonsense, it's just a recommendation that is given for bean counting reasons, regulatory reasons, and liability reasons.
But you I could say the same and say you have no idea either of why LL01 is important or not? Where is your evidence that LL01 is just for bean counting and regulatory reasons.

I agree almost all fluid intervals by BMW is really dumb, except brake fluid. But the actual fluid specs that's not something I would change.

There are no reasons to not get LL01. It's like the same price as non LL01 oil.
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      11-26-2018, 11:02 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
But you I could say the same and say you have no idea either of why LL01 is important or not? Where is your evidence that LL01 is just for bean counting and regulatory reasons.

I agree almost all fluid intervals by BMW is really dumb, except brake fluid. But the actual fluid specs that's not something I would change.

There are no reasons to not get LL01. It's like the same price as non LL01 oil.
Sure there are reasons, but yes buy LL01 if it makes you feel better. But the people saying LL01 is necessary are the ones who have support that position, not me. As for my reasons, well I have been using M1 0W-40 since day one, I have tested samples for years, it has always been stellar in my reports, even now at 99,000 miles so just because Mobil1 didn't want to get it certified for the older LL spec, I am not going to change oils.
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      11-26-2018, 01:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
But you I could say the same and say you have no idea either of why LL01 is important or not? Where is your evidence that LL01 is just for bean counting and regulatory reasons.

I agree almost all fluid intervals by BMW is really dumb, except brake fluid. But the actual fluid specs that's not something I would change.

There are no reasons to not get LL01. It's like the same price as non LL01 oil.
I think he will argue anything at this point. lol Its funny because he reminds me of myself.
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      11-26-2018, 02:41 PM   #40
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      11-26-2018, 02:47 PM   #41
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did you read the sticky post?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1517476
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      11-29-2018, 10:24 AM   #42
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Purchased one! Heres the link to my other post if you'd like to check it out! Thanks for all the replies everyone, very helpful.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1560084
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      11-29-2018, 10:31 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Sure there are reasons, but yes buy LL01 if it makes you feel better. But the people saying LL01 is necessary are the ones who have support that position, not me. As for my reasons, well I have been using M1 0W-40 since day one, I have tested samples for years, it has always been stellar in my reports, even now at 99,000 miles so just because Mobil1 didn't want to get it certified for the older LL spec, I am not going to change oils.
If it works nice for you I suppose it's not terrible.

But I had a discussion over the week on BITOG forums and they say BMW LL01 isn't just for longer OCI, well I mean yes and no, but like LL01 oils are just better quality overall and better shearing protection to.

Like the Mobil 1 I keep reading that it is terrible in terms of shearing. But if you say you no problems then I don't know.
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      11-29-2018, 10:59 AM   #44
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You can read what you want there but I doubt you are looking at factual data. For me, I have been using it and testing it for over 10 years in two different highly modified turbocharged vehicles and the viscosity has always held up in comparison to other oils I have ran and tested. If there was shear, you would see that in the drop in viscosity. I'm not saying others suck, because I have ran Rotella T6, Castrol Edge 0W-40 and it tested fine as well. But the M1 has just done a bit better so I stick with it.


I mean go run the OEM oil for a couple of changes, get it tested, then go run Mobil1 0W-40 for a couple and then test and compare, you will see.
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