[ThatRWD]

Does this apply to 07?

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by ThatRWD

Does this apply to 07?

If you would have read the attachments:


Model Year
2010-12/1 Series
2010-12/3 Series
2011-12 I 5 Series
2010-12 I 5 Series Gran T urismo
2012/6 Series
2010-12 I X3 SAV
2010-12/ X5 SAV
2010-12/ X6 SAV
2010-12/ Z4

Inclusive Dates of Manufacture:
January 2010- August 2011
September 2009- February 2012
September 2009 - August 2011
September 2009 - November 2011
May 2011 -October 2011
January 2010 -September 2011
November 2009 - October 201 1
February 2010 - October 2011
January 2010 - February 2011

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Agentphish

Also been chasing rough idle...but I did my plugs less than 2 years/15K ago.
Have new lifters for the ticking issue 9 months ago along with VCG and VC.
Have 6 new coils under CPO several months back before CPO ran up.
Cleaned VANOS solenoids.
Use the Techron fuel treatment every 4-6 months.

No codes. I'm at a loss and now out of warranty.

Check for vacuum leaks. Especially is VCG has been replaced.

[thomas88162]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Check for vacuum leaks. Especially is VCG has been replaced.

Mmmhmmm... Seen a share of improperly reinstalled gaskets. Gets them every time. It will usually cause a wavy idle.

[Agentphish]

Originally Posted by thomas88162

Mmmhmmm... Seen a share of improperly reinstalled gaskets. Gets them every time. It will usually cause a wavy idle.

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Check for vacuum leaks. Especially is VCG has been replaced.

I'm hoping since the VC and gasket were both replaced, and the dealer's Senior Master Tech who I trust did the work, that this isn't an issue. Not saying he couldn't have somehow messed up, but I'd hope with his level of expertise that it wouldn't be an issue.

Time to learn how to check for vacuum leaks.

[Eagle1oh7]

I'm ecstatic about this! Unlimited miles up to 10 years is phenomenal, makes me worry less about owning the car long-term. I plan to keep it until the engine dies, which I don't think will happen at all.

[thomas88162]

Originally Posted by Agentphish

I'm hoping since the VC and gasket were both replaced, and the dealer's Senior Master Tech who I trust did the work, that this isn't an issue. Not saying he couldn't have somehow messed up, but I'd hope with his level of expertise that it wouldn't be an issue.

Time to learn how to check for vacuum leaks.

No, I doubt that a master tech with the valve cover re-installation special tool even could mess this up... It's the DIY'ers which often do, particularly the inexperienced ones. It is admittedly easy because of the cramped environment, but you have to realize that the gasket can NOT be out of it's grooves or it WILL leak..something!

[talisman311]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Weight savings. Which sounds absurd for a bolt...but if you took all the nuts and bolts off your car and put them in a pile, it's pretty darn heavy. Every bit counts.

galvanic corrosion w/ the magnesium block..

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by talisman311

galvanic corrosion w/ the magnesium block..

I thought that only affects them if they're electrically connected to each other.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Weight savings. Which sounds absurd for a bolt...but if you took all the nuts and bolts off your car and put them in a pile, it's pretty darn heavy. Every bit counts.

no. it's because the block is made of MG on the N52. you can't use steel bolts in a magnesium block - you'll get galvanic corrosion, plus the difference in expansion rates is even worse than aluminum/steel.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

I thought that only affects them if they're electrically connected to each other.

if they are touching then they're electrically connected.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

if they are touching then they're electrically connected.

Ah. Then that makes sense. I learned something today.

[Agentphish]

Originally Posted by thomas88162

No, I doubt that a master tech with the valve cover re-installation special tool even could mess this up... It's the DIY'ers which often do, particularly the inexperienced ones. It is admittedly easy because of the cramped environment, but you have to realize that the gasket can NOT be out of it's grooves or it WILL leak..something!

Oh yeah for sure. I understand. Still something I should check I guess.

[mbhforum]

Hi, I just spent a $1,000 6 weeks ago getting my Valvetronic sensor replaced. I had error codes P1014 and P1017. Would this be eligible for reimbursement?

[M40i4me]

Well my vanos failed today at 185,740 miles and is at the dealer for a free replacement. I just made it under the 10 year guideline by a few months!

[Vanosss]

Hey everyone. First post after reading for a long time over the years. So I was experiencing an exaggerated start on my e92 when cold and my mechanic was already scheduled to do the engine gaskets (some signs of oil over the past 2 years) and when he opened it he noticed a bolt had sheered off the below the chain, on the side facing the windshield. It was still there but the part to insert the star adapter to remove it was missing. Long story short, Bmw fixed the vanos but now when I accelerate moderately from 20-50km/h I feel a bit of bumpyness/jittery acceleration. I already had this symptom but stronger bumpiness a few years ago and that was caused by the plugs and coils, which I replaced all. I’m wondering if anyone has an idea what Bmw might have not done right because I really don’t wanna bring it back to the dealership and have them diagnose it for $$$ and tell me my March 2019/ 10k/km plugs/coils need replacing because I could do it for just over the cost of the diagnostic fee. Is there some specific order they needed to put them back in if they were re-using the plugs/coils? Sorry, not much of a mechanic. And to clarify, the car was running fine before this, it was just the starter issue. Thanks!

[e91Owner]

What is the MY/engine of your car?

[Vanosss]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

What is the MY/engine of your car?

Hi, it’s a N52K x drive 2011. It seems to be mostly between 30-45km/h when accellerating. The roads are so poor and the tires are low profile so it’s challenging to determine if it was always like this or not. My gut says it’s definitely not as smooth as before.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Vanosss

Hi, it's a N52K x drive 2011. It seems to be mostly between 30-45km/h when accellerating. The roads are so poor and the tires are low profile so it's challenging to determine if it was always like this or not. My gut says it's definitely not as smooth as before.

The reason I was asking was because it seems like you must have caught that warranty just before it exited unless that receipt is from a ways back.

In any case, I'm assuming you have the GM automatic transmission. What you are describing sounds like the transmission slipping. The GM 6-speed auto trans has a known torque converter problem that was addressed in a TSB years ago that had a series of actions to accomplish, in the following order if they did not fix the problem:

Add an additive
Replace the torque converter
Replace the transmission

The stock additive is no longer available, but there are aftermarket friction modifier products that are comparable like dr tranny shudder fix.

My e91 has this issue. I just end up having to change the transmission oil more frequently, although I used a transmission fluid with a higher viscosity this last time (Valvoline maxlife instead of DEX VI) and added 2 tubes of the shudder fix. So far so good on about 500 miles. I got about 30k miles on my previous change with DEX VI alone before the problem resurfaced.

[Vanosss]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

The reason I was asking was because it seems like you must have caught that warranty just before it exited unless that receipt is from a ways back.

In any case, I'm assuming you have the GM automatic transmission. What you are describing sounds like the transmission slipping. The GM 6-speed auto trans has a known torque converter problem that was addressed in a TSB years ago that had a series of actions to accomplish, in the following order if they did not fix the problem:

Add an additive
Replace the torque converter
Replace the transmission

The stock additive is no longer available, but there are aftermarket friction modifier products that are comparable like dr tranny shudder fix.

My e91 has this issue. I just end up having to change the transmission oil more frequently, although I used a transmission fluid with a higher viscosity this last time (Valvoline maxlife instead of DEX VI) and added 2 tubes of the shudder fix. So far so good on about 500 miles. I got about 30k miles on my previous change with DEX VI alone before the problem resurfaced.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll ask my mechanic to check it etc. and yes, caught it with about 6 months before the 10 years would be up. I’m guessing if it is the transmission then Bmw wouldn’t have touched it. I’m also on the stock firmware. Should I get it upgraded?

[e91Owner]

When you say stock, to me that means not aftermarket. There have likely been changes to the firmware overtime supplied by BMW. Whether that helps a transmission problem, is another story. The fixes for this problem on most engine/transmission TSBs start with making sure you have the current firmware. In most of the cases that I have read with this problem, me included, this does not remedy it.

[Vanosss]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

When you say stock, to me that means not aftermarket. There have likely been changes to the firmware overtime supplied by BMW. Whether that helps a transmission problem, is another story. The fixes for this problem on most engine/transmission TSBs start with making sure you have the current firmware. In most of the cases that I have read with this problem, me included, this does not remedy it.

Thanks and yes, I haven’t done anything special with the car. Really enjoy it as-is. I’ll do the firmware and go from there. Transmission sounds $$$ but I’m not surprised. My bmw-only mechanic said at the 10 year/100kkm mark they get expensive. Appreciate the detailed response. The car has always had a rough idle when it starts up and when backing out something it can be a bit jerky, and sometimes going forward (at very low speed and usually during startup), but for the time I’ve had the car, those symptoms have always been like that (6 years). Will report back if I end up getting it fixed.