[Mike K]

Part of the RCRIT document states that if the faulty bolts are damaged or missing, then replace the VANOS assembly. Hope you’re OK now though!

[HamHox]

Originally Posted by richas

This makes me nervous. Did you try to lever on those a little to see if the crack would open up? Sometimes cracks will seal up and become invisibleÂ…
And the other hand, the crack in that picture is an odd shape to it, some sort of fiber or hair?

I examined it thoroughly when I removed it from the camshaft. I think the "crack" I saw was, in fact, fiber or hair. Whichever, I feel better having gone back and inspected it hands-on. Having the gear in hand and being able to compare it to a new component, I didn't see anything of concern. We're coming up on two weeks and the car hasn't thrown any codes and is running really well. It's my daughter's daily driver. She's put a good number of hours on it.

Originally Posted by Mike K

Part of the RCRIT document states that if the faulty bolts are damaged or missing, then replace the VANOS assembly. Hope youÂ’re OK now though!

I read that. No doubt replacing the VANOS gears is the lowest-risk approach thus the reason it's the one recommended in the RCRIT. Even though there was some separation between the VANOS gear sprocket and housing, the bolts hadn't backed fully out. I didn't see anything to indicate the sprocket spun independently of the housing. I'm hedging my bet that the gap kept the oil pressure from building up and engaging the vanes causing the rough idle. Since the timing was not off, maybe I caught it early enough the VANOS gear wasn't stressed from spinning independently of the camshaft. We noticed the change to a rough idle almost right away and immediately parked the car.

I've read posts where others replaced the sheared bolts and not the VANOS gears, so we'll see how it pans out. So far, so good. Believe me, my fingers are crossed!

If anyone is looking for a good video on the full replacement procedure, I found this one by a BMW technician: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyYVJiXkJuw I found it pretty helpful. Be sure to read the comments as he does answer a few questions in there. Overall though, it's a pretty comprehensive video on a car that's not torn down to some ridiculous level.

[HamHox]

I think we're going on week four since changing the bolts (?) and have not run into any issues with the VANOS.

I did end up replacing the ignition coils. The long and short of it is I'd replaced two during the initial VC removal after finding them damaged. This weekend, I got error codes P29CF and P0303 - misfire cylinder #3 with engine hesitation, loss of power, vibration, etc. Replaced the remaining coils and the codes went away and everything is back to normal. The coil I took out of #3 had carbon on the anode. I'm almost sure it was one of the original Bosch. There were two NGK and four Bosch on the car when I got it, so someone had replaced at least two at some point. At 134k miles, they were due for replacement.

So the car is running beautifully, and I'm slowly replacing every valve, solenoid, belt, filter, gasket, etc. as I go. Should have a near-new BMW soon!

[ryan stewart]

This is only on the later ones, right? Pre-lci n52b30s don't have this right?

About to replace my VC and trying to figure if I should do this

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

This is only on the later ones, right? Pre-lci n52b30s don't have this right?

About to replace my VC and trying to figure if I should do this

Yes that’s correct but you can check and see if your Vanos torx bolts have the center security pin as the faulty bolts do. While you’re in there.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Yes that’s correct but you can check and see if your Vanos torx bolts have the center security pin as the faulty bolts do. While you’re in there.

Ok thanks. Ill probably give them all a CLOSE look and make sure everything is snug.

[ryan stewart]

Everything looks OK. So weird to use security torx, also looks like the security pin isnt centered. But they all looked snugged:

[Mike K]

Look at the bolts on the back side of the Vanos. Those are the ones that fail.

[Mike K]

Like this

[ryan stewart]

Oops. Well I didnt notice anything odd while looking but didnt get a pic. Valve cover is back on now so I guess Ill find out when it wrecks it.

[rsierra]

Just popping in to say thanks for the detailed info you’ve all posted- I purchased a 2011 328i at a Toyota dealership about a month ago, 136k miles and full dealer service records. They gave me the option of purchasing a “power train warranty” covered by a 3rd party, which we opted for. Felt pretty happy with the purchase. I took it to the local BMW dealership shortly after for the PCV heater recall, where they read a p052b permanent code but I deferred it since the car was running fine. I tracked down this thread to see what I was working with - and a week later the car died in the driveway and wouldn’t start (jinxed?). Service plan covered a tow, so car went to BMW. They just called to let me know all the vanos bolts were sheared off and some were in the oil pan. Depending on where they went we might be looking at a new engine. We’re glad the service plan covers the repair, else we’d be paying more for the vanos sprockets or a new engine than we paid for the car.

Moral of the story: this is a valuable thread. Check your bolts!

[Skiwi39]

I've had the same problems for about a year. P011 and P015 codes, then P054b code and the occasional P052b code. Replaced the Vanos Solenoids, and then the Camshaft position sensors...no change although the Check Engine Light disappeared for several months. Removed and cleaned the Vanos oil check valves which were in decent shape - not dirty - but one was a bit sticky. Then it developed a really bad idle with hunting and stuttering on start up. CEL was on more or less permanently and I couldn't get rid of the P054b code.

I took it to the local stealership who diagnosed loose Vanos sprocket bolts and said the solenoids, Vanos units and bolts would all need to be replaced and if they had sheared, the sump would have to come off. They wanted $9500!!

I pulled the valve cover and found that the bolts (all still the original tamper-proof ones) were still there, but on the exhaust sprocket one had backed itself out and the other 3 were barely finger tight. Intake camshaft was better but they were very easy to remove. Replaced them all with the upgraded bolts. I also replaced the Eccentric Shaft Sensor while I was in there.

Now I have a nasty idle on start up, but particularly when the engine is warm. It's nasty rough and then smooths out. Otherwise when the car is running it idles perfectly at 600rpm and the engine performance is smooth with no other issues and power delivery seems to be fine.

Trouble is I can't get rid of the damned P052b code and crappy idle. The P054b code I had originally has gone (assuming the loose bolts were the cause of that) and I can't understand why it seems to have jumped to the camshaft that was less affected by the loose bolt issue??

I swapped over the Vanos solenoids yesterday and the problem didn't change. Will do the same with the Camshaft Position Sensors today but I suspect it will remain the same.

Any suggestions welcomed!! This is driving nuts...

[gica]

Hello I have the P052B code.
The head was replaced on this car, oil ring seals for the cams are new, no damaged bearing caps. Solenoids new, the bolts were fine but I did replace the intake ones. The issue is I noticed the torque mentioned in this thread as 6 and 60 degrees? I did not do that. Anyways I also used an off the market gear and same code P052B. I don't know if the timing can be done wrong using the proper tool for adjustment and looking the flywheel at number 1.
I am overdue for smog and I am baffled by this issue.
I changed 2 heads so far but still getting the same code. The oil filter has the o rings in place. Intake cam sensor also new.
What the heck could I do? Help a brother out.

[Mike K]

Which brand of solenoids did you use?

And did you replace plugs and coils? If so, with what brands?

[josh1137]

Originally Posted by gica

Hello I have the P052B code.
The head was replaced on this car, oil ring seals for the cams are new, no damaged bearing caps. Solenoids new, the bolts were fine but I did replace the intake ones. The issue is I noticed the torque mentioned in this thread as 6 and 60 degrees? I did not do that. Anyways I also used an off the market gear and same code P052B. I don't know if the timing can be done wrong using the proper tool for adjustment and looking the flywheel at number 1.
I am overdue for smog and I am baffled by this issue.
I changed 2 heads so far but still getting the same code. The oil filter has the o rings in place. Intake cam sensor also new.
What the heck could I do? Help a brother out.

funny thing is, I bought a 328i 2011, had very similar problems. found this thread and replaced everything. vanos bolts, timing sensor the one next to the intake cam shaft, new valve cover, camshaft sensors, vanos solenoids.

still get the p052b. it ran good for like.. 20 seconds
then errored and it was throwing the code again... fuckkk

[Quantum2034]

Hello, this is my first time posting. I recently purchased a 2011 BMW 335xi. After a month of ownership, I got the code P112f. I was informed it could either be a MAP sensor or PCV valve failure. Well, I ended up replacing the map sensor first. The code was still there so I replaced my entire valve cover as the n55 doesn't have a solution for just the PCV valve. When I started the car I now have a loud ticking very similar to this one:

Now I have 3 codes even after clearing them
P112f, P052b, and P13C0

After trying to read through all the comments it seems something with my Vanos Solenoids or camshaft sensors is bad. I'm confused, however, because I never drove the car nor had the codes before I replaced the valve cover. So I don't understand how my Vanos Solenoids or camshaft sensor could be bad if I never drove the car. I am new to cars in general and would appreciate any advice on what to do next.