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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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325i won’t start all of a sudden!
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11-22-2022, 01:30 AM | #1 |
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325i won’t start all of a sudden!
Hey all,
New to the forum so greetings . Bought an e93 325i (convertible) a few months ago and had been pretty strong other than a leaky windscreen washer fluid tank. But when I tried to start it most recently, it wouldn’t crank! It just made a small clicking noise, I believe from the fuel pump perhaps? I initially thought the battery died but when I charger it up with my housemates’ car battery, still no joy. However, while connected, it seems the engine started to crank before dying out, maybe 2 or 3 cranks. The dash lights and other electrics still turn on when the key is in and the ignition is switched on. So what does it sound like the problem is likely to be and how can I diagnose for sure? I thought starter motor had gone, but because of the small cranking when connected, I’m wondering if it’s something else? Thanks Last edited by Rog325i; 11-22-2022 at 09:47 AM.. |
11-22-2022, 05:10 AM | #3 |
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The battery has been very strong since I bought it, never had a problem with starting. This issue developed literally overnight. Is it possible for a battery become that weak that quickly?
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11-22-2022, 06:29 AM | #4 |
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Yes. If it shorts, it will not pass current and will not even jumpstart. My diagnosis is based on your statement that when connected to another car the engine cranked over a few times. The clicking noise is the starter solenoid being triggered by the low battery voltage.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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11-22-2022, 04:08 PM | #5 |
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First, buy a $10 mulitmeter and check battery voltage, as you may have a short which is draining the battery. Can you jump the car with another battery? Once it is started, check the alternator voltage, which at the battery should be 13+ to 14+.
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11-24-2022, 09:01 AM | #6 |
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I’ve checked the battery voltage, and it seems there is a voltage drop somewhere between the connectors in the engine bay at the front, and the battery in the rear. Gets 14V at the front and loses about 4V across so the battery isn’t being charged by the car. I’m likely going to have to get an auto electrician to take a look to try to locate the source, but any more suggestions of things to try before I do would be great, Thanks.
Last edited by Rog325i; 11-24-2022 at 09:35 AM.. |
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11-24-2022, 10:17 AM | #7 | |
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11-24-2022, 10:55 AM | #8 | |
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then you likely have a rusted/corroded "Transfer Point" at the larger of the two B+ cables shown in attached Photo (battery removed). That Transfer Point is where the B+ connection to Alternator and Starter pass through the Chassis to a LONGER Cable that runs beneath the vehicle to engine. If battery voltage & Jumpstart Terminal Voltage are SAME with engine OFF, then you may have a bad Ground Strap at the Starter. Attach ONE Jumper Cable between Chassis Ground ("Hex-pin" at right wing) and good Engine Ground (bolt or metal bracket) and see if Starter Cranks. George |
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11-27-2022, 05:49 AM | #9 | ||
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11-27-2022, 09:56 PM | #10 |
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Mine recently did this to me at a gas station and it was in fact the starter. It would have a weak start sometimes when it was warm. When it died it turned over really weak then nothing, dead. Start button would just turn the dash on/off.
You can check a specific point within the engine bay electrical box to see if power is getting to the starter which will tell you the CAS is all good. I had tried jumping the starter from the other end of the plug and it did nothing. After replacing the starter, it cranked right up. |
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