[AndyW]

Oh...and I also guessed well in my educated guess for the separator plate... It's an A063 also.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

So, I have begun this job. So far, so good. Valve Body is on the bench. I replaced the solenoids and will open it up tomorrow. A couple of questions reading your DIY.

1. I am not sure I understand "keep the top valve body facing down" due to the check valves. It looks like the valve body sections are both "inside up" in your pics.

2. Can you describe your vacuum rig? I can't tell from your rig what type of fitting you were using or how large. Also, what vacuum value is "good"?

Thx! I am sure I will have more questions tomorrow...

1. The valve body orientation installed in the transmission is the top and bottom. When the valve body is laying on top section and after all fasteners are removed, lift the separator plate with bottom section off of the top of the valve body. This will ensure everything stays installed on the bottom half of the valve body as you lift.
2. I used a rubber end fitting over the hole in the plexiglass. See the photo. "Good" vacuum value is pulling 25-30" hg and the vacuum holds. Make sure the plexiglass is firm on the valve body.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by seccsc

1. The valve body orientation installed in the transmission is the top and bottom. When the valve body is laying on top section and after all fasteners are removed, lift the separator plate with bottom section off of the top of the valve body. This will ensure everything stays installed on the bottom half of the valve body as you lift.
2. I used a rubber end fitting over the hole in the plexiglass. See the photo. "Good" vacuum value is pulling 25-30" hg and the vacuum holds. Make sure the plexiglass is firm on the valve body.

Thx! That makes sense. I'll have to see if my vacuum kit has that attachment. I am sure I can figure one regardless. I presume the hole in the plexiglass is somewhat small..1/8"?

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Thx! That makes sense. I'll have to see if my vacuum kit has that attachment. I am sure I can figure one regardless. I presume the hole in the plexiglass is somewhat small..1/8"?

Yes. With the hole being so small make sure it is aligned with vacuum rig and not covered by the rubber circular portion if you use the same attachment.

[AndyW]

Progress. But some questions to satisfy my OCD.

1. My ball checks were also contrary to the Sonnex drawing and the same as yours.

2. The valves have a lot of easy movement before you replace the kit pieces. Then they are really tight. I mean, I like the fact that all the replacement parts are metal with rubber o rings rather than the plastic but some of them seem almost too tight. I also assume they will "work in". We're yours really tight as well?

3. SOLVED. So, a little snag. Or just my OCD. For the solenoid end plugs, the first 3 had springs, the next 2 had none, and the last one had a spring but a piston in front of it. Is this what you had as well? Sonnex instructions not clear. Transmission was working with no errors or codes before I started the refurb. Just want to be sure before I button it up! I can post pics if needed.

Here is a pic from sonnex showing what I observed was normal.


4. Separator plate was actually in good shape... probably didn't need to replace. But I am sure if I hadn't got one it it would have cracked or something when I pried the valve body apart...lol.

Thx for the help!

[AndyW]

More thoughts as I keep going on this...

1. Surprised the pistons in the upper sections had rubber boots for resistance vice the springs on the new parts! This kit really looks like an upgrade in a lot of ways.

2. I need to google how to use the test end plug and nut. Maybe I am thick but the sonnex instructions don't make it clear to me. For example..the test plug has an o-ring groove, but no o-ring(??) It's things like this that trigger my OCD...lol.

3. Can't get a vacuum seal on a lot of things...figure it is operator error. Will try with two people later, one holding the plexiglass and suction cup firmly down while the other runs the pump.

[N54Society]

Awesome thread.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by AndyW

3. Can't get a vacuum seal on a lot of things...figure it is operator error. Will try with two people later, one holding the plexiglass and suction cup firmly down while the other runs the pump.

OK, think I figured this out. Watched the sonnex videos here and sorta duplicated their tool (3/8" plexi and rubber pad).

Things I learned:

1. Still had a lot of "failure to hold" until I realized...duh...I am using a hand unit and they are using a constant vacuum source. So as long as I got vacuum of any sort and it would hold around 20" while pumping (everything would fall within 4-15 secs if I stopped), I called it good. We'll see if that was correct when I put it all back together tomorrow.

2. Dowels for the TCU are a hard fit of you didn't line up the separator plate *perfectly* when you put the two halves together. I used a punch and plastic hammer to coax them in. Still a about 1/2" protrusion on one, and 3/4" on the other, but that matches pictures and videos I have seen on the interwebs.

3. Don't forget to lineup the valve rod in the slot on the plastic sliding piece on the TCU module before you start bolting it up. Ask me how i know...

On to reinstalling in the car.

Tomorrow i go in search of a source for strong SmCo magnets so I can have a couple in the aluminum pan (one on inside, one on outside, opposite) since the aluminum pan I bought has no magnets in the bottom like the factory one...

Then on to fill procedure. By tomorrow night I should know if I jacked this up or not...wish me luck!

[AndyW]

Another thing I learned...even though the BMW instructions say 14NM(WRONG!) for metal pan and 12NM(CORRECT FOR METAL) for plastic, I think I will do 13NM. Just snapped a bolt and 14NM was feeling sketchy, TBH. Luckily the end was removable with a pair of pliers. Off to the HW store!

UPDATE: Always read the manual twice...it was 12NM for metal, 10NM for plastic. 14NM is for the GM transmission. Only two broken bolts before I figured it out...

Oh well, all torqued to 12NM and nearly 4L of fluid in...time to reset adaptations and finish the fill procedure...

[AndyW]

Test drive and adaption procedure done..no issues or codes. What a messy, tedious job. Now to do just fluid and filters in the DCT on the 135i. That will be a cakewalk compared to this!

Used nearly 8L of fluid...this new aluminum pan is slightly deeper than stock.

Also got some thin magnets and fixed one of the circular magnets from the stock pan into the aluminum pan (thin magnets between the fins on the outside holding onto the circular one on the inside).

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Progress. But some questions to satisfy my OCD.

1. My ball checks were also contrary to the Sonnex drawing and the same as yours.

2. The valves have a lot of easy movement before you replace the kit pieces. Then they are really tight. I mean, I like the fact that all the replacement parts are metal with rubber o rings rather than the plastic but some of them seem almost too tight. I also assume they will "work in". We're yours really tight as well?

3. So, a little snag. Or just my OCD. For the solenoid end plugs, the first 3 had springs, the next 2 had none, and the last one had a spring but a piston in front of it. Is this what you had as well? Sonnex instructions not clear. Transmission was working with no errors or codes before I started the refurb. Just want to be sure before I button it up! I can post pics if needed.

4. Separator plate was actually in good shape... probably didn't need to replace. But I am sure if I hadn't got one it it would have cracked or something when I pried the valve body apart...lol.

Thx for the help!

Yes, the replacement metal sections with o-rings do fit very tight. I think I shaved a very slight amount of the o-ring outer portion when installing.
I believe separator plates are a one time use being installed. I never wanted to pull the valve body again, so I used a new part.
Sorry for the late response.

[AndyW]

May have spoke too soon. At cold start this afternoon (about 50F ambient), transmission had a clattering and whining sound that slowly went away as it got up to temp. Once at temp it was gone. Video below. I did notice the sound tracked with engine RPM, even in Park, so Torque converter issue? No codes and I did reverify fluid level was good. Open to any and all ideas. As I posted previously, the car sounded fine during the fill procedure and doing the re-adapt procedure (driving for about 45 min doing various maneuvers). Maybe one of the those tight fitting pieces sticks on cold start? I just started it again with fluid temp at 100F and it sounded perfect. Hate intermittent issues.

video:

Facts:
BMW 335i ZF 6HP21 transmission with 150K. Fluid drain and refill at dealer at 73K. Fluid/Pan/Filter at 100K (leak) at dealer.
Rebuilt valve body with Sonnex kit.
Replaced all solenoids with new.
Replaced pan and filter and put in ~8L of new fluid.
Initial fill procedure and test drive using the adaptations reset procedure went flawlessly.
The next day, on cold start, the sound in the video.
When allowed to sit for 30 min and restart, back to perfect behavior (trans temp was still at 100F).
No codes on INPA.

UPDATE: Just did another cold start...only made the sound for about 5-7 seconds. Really hope it is the valve body "wearing in" and not the TC...I don't have the ability to drop the tranny in my garage! may risk driving it tomorrow.

[gamesfrager]

Any help finding the proper reset procedure for a 328i (not xi) build date May 2010.
The table on fcpeuro and circulating around the web that shows what procedure to perform doesn't list 328i.

The reset adaptation was performed by an indi BMW shop, but the final step wasn't done.
My VIN last 7 are: E131410

Thanks in advance.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

May have spoke too soon. At cold start this afternoon (about 50F ambient), transmission had a clattering and whining sound that slowly went away as it got up to temp. Once at temp it was gone. Video below. I did notice the sound tracked with engine RPM, even in Park, so Torque converter issue? No codes and I did reverify fluid level was good. Open to any and all ideas. As I posted previously, the car sounded fine during the fill procedure and doing the re-adapt procedure (driving for about 45 min doing various maneuvers). Maybe one of the those tight fitting pieces sticks on cold start? I just started it again with fluid temp at 100F and it sounded perfect. Hate intermittent issues.

video:

Facts:
BMW 335i ZF 6HP21 transmission with 150K. Fluid drain and refill at dealer at 73K. Fluid/Pan/Filter at 100K (leak) at dealer.
Rebuilt valve body with Sonnex kit.
Replaced all solenoids with new.
Replaced pan and filter and put in ~8L of new fluid.
Initial fill procedure and test drive using the adaptations reset procedure went flawlessly.
The next day, on cold start, the sound in the video.
When allowed to sit for 30 min and restart, back to perfect behavior (trans temp was still at 100F).
No codes on INPA.

UPDATE: Just did another cold start...only made the sound for about 5-7 seconds. Really hope it is the valve body "wearing in" and not the TC...I don't have the ability to drop the tranny in my garage! may risk driving it tomorrow.

This sounds like your metal pan is making noise. How are you magnets placed on the pan? You should probably verify the tranny pan fastener torque when cold.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by seccsc

This sounds like your metal pan is making noise. How are you magnets placed on the pan? You should probably verify the tranny pan fastener torque when cold.

Thx for the reply. 99% sure it's not the pan rattling...but that's an easy check(plus, the sound wouldn't go away like it does) The magnet is back left on the pan and is held by magnets on the outside they have not moved so are clearly still holding. The sound is definitely toward the front and "above" the pan, for lack of a better description. There is also a flow whine (think failing P/S pump sound) associated with this as well. Hence my working theory of some valve in the valve body sticking and causing some type of starvation in the TC for a short period at startup. I may just drop the pan again and reinspect everything. Couple of other ideas from other friends:. I should have soaked all the sonnex parts in ATF overnight before installing . More plausibly - a solenoid is sticking.

I may try resetting adaptations again as well. Couldn't hurt.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Thx for the reply. 99% sure it's not the pan rattling...but that's an easy check(plus, the sound wouldn't go away like it does) The magnet is back left on the pan and is held by magnets on the outside they have not moved so are clearly still holding. The sound is definitely toward the front and "above" the pan, for lack of a better description. There is also a flow whine (think failing P/S pump sound) associated with this as well. Hence my working theory of some valve in the valve body sticking and causing some type of starvation in the TC for a short period at startup. I may just drop the pan again and reinspect everything. Couple of other ideas from other friends:. I should have soaked all the sonnex parts in ATF overnight before installing . More plausibly - a solenoid is sticking.

I may try resetting adaptations again as well. Couldn't hurt.

Just to be sure, it's not the interference rattling e.g. heat shield or anything like that?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by seccsc

Just to be sure, it's not the interference rattling e.g. heat shield or anything like that?

Pretty sure, but I'll look! I am going to dive back into it tomorrow. Wish me luck!

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Pretty sure, but I'll look! I am going to dive back into it tomorrow. Wish me luck!

As I listen to your video, my initial thought is a loose fastener and the need to verify valve body fastener torque to the transmission.
Since you will have to drop the fluid(which sucks and is expensive), I would inspect each fastener and then pull the valve body. Verify all fastener torques, solenoid alignment, and the valve body controller connection.
When reinstalling, double to triple check your self.

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by seccsc

As I listen to your video, my initial thought is a loose fastener and the need to verify valve body fastener torque to the transmission.
Since you will have to drop the fluid(which sucks and is expensive), I would inspect each fastener and then pull the valve body. Verify all fastener torques, solenoid alignment, and the valve body controller connection.
When reinstalling, double to triple check your self.

All that is good advice. And i have been reclaiming fluid... bought a container just to do that precisely because it is so pricey!

Good news...I am 99% sure I found the problem. As I listened to the sound with the car idling, it didn't clear this time when temp went over 80F. Really what it was sounding like to me was when a P/S pump is starving for fluid. So I did some internet research on A/T fluid pumps and how they work and problems they can have. Turns out some people have had issues with aftermarket pans suction pipes not sealing properly. So, I dropped the pan and valve body, inspected the valve body and seals (no issues), re torqued everything and then put the *original factory plastic pan* on. Did the fill procedure. Absolutely no aberrant sounds or issues. Did a test drive. No issues. I will let it cool down and see what happens when I start it in the AM but I plan on returning the URO pan and ordering an OEM one. Not worth the hassle. I inspected both suction pipes next to each other when both were out and they look the same to the naked eye, but I think there may be a subtle dimensional issue that causes the A/T pump to suck a bit of air around the seal on the aftermarket pan because there is absolutely no unusual noise now. I'll post back if this wasn't it.

[AndyW]

No issues at cold start or driving today. Returning the pan and ordering a ZF stock one.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by AndyW

No issues at cold start or driving today. Returning the pan and ordering a ZF stock one.

I'm glad you figured out the issue and sharing your lessons learned.

[Metallizer]

So I've read over this DIY a few times and I'm trying to understand the significance of installing the Sonnax kit, is it an upgrade over stock? I have a 08 335i that is doing all kinds of wacky things that resulted in me having to trailer it home because it kept giving me and error code then jumping out of gear.

To me it makes sense for the solenoids to be bad along with the seal sleeves and seal adapter. From my understand the trans has never been serviced and has 160k on it.