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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Replacing DSC Hydro Unit E90, E92



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      03-15-2014, 11:43 AM   #23
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As an update my limited research shows that the Bosch electric motor which drives the hydraulic pump is the issue. The brush material which Bosch used is graphite and that combined with the brush holders (2 brushes per motor) allows the brushes to not make contact with the slip ring thus allowing rpm drop throwing the code.

I don't know if Bosch changed their material or not for newer ABS units but this issues which started in late 2006 when Bosch did the change over to a different design (fewer solenoids as previous versions) was the beginning of this problem.

I have never read of any problem other than the brush issue. Modulemaster is a place that does repair the brush issue by changing out the brushes with a different version (that what has been reported to me anyway). They seem hit or miss because nothing is changed on these motors they are all 2 brush design and the repair is simple.

The repair which I did is to just take the can off the motor, clean the brushes and reinstall. If you want this to last forever you would need to remove the brushes and either change the material out to either say carbon or other graphite material. I opted for the simple clean the brushes and make sure they have sufficient contact to the slip ring. If this happens again I will just now use my spare unit (the one I fixed) and swap the electrical module out and correct the brush issue permanently with a different material. FYI graphite brushes usually are the best choice because they are slippery. I wonder if the brush holders are too tight allowing them to jam.

Here is the best video of the repair. All these units as essentially the same regardless of model to include motorcycles...


There was a better video out there but the owner pulled it.

Can you do this?
Yes.
Is it hard?
Depends on your skill set but if you can change your oil, have a few tools (torx), understand how to bleed brakes you can do this.
You will need to reset the codes and then you should be fine.
Bosch changed the design to allow you to bleed the brakes without having to cycle the ABS contrary to what BMW will tell you.

It also has been reported by one member which I can't confirm and never did this that driving in conditions that allow the ABS to pulse with correct this issue. I fail to see how that is possible when that isn't the problem but I post it for complete disclosure of what I have read.

I hope this helps. It is a shame to pay for the repair when the problem typically is nothing more than a brush stuck too far back from a slip ring...
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      03-18-2014, 07:02 PM   #24
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May i ask if anyone know where we can buy a repaired pump?

So that i dont have to risk damaging the pump or send it to /fro a repair shop
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      03-18-2014, 07:18 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Coupe4Me View Post
Here is the direct link for the part. http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/p...506777164.html

I have the electrical unit alone for sale if you need.
Hi, great writeup, first of all. In your first post, granted it was a couple of years ago, you said the part cost ~$500. But the link above goes to a part that's almost $1000?

Repair kit, control unit DSC - 335i Coupe. From 12/2007 Up To 09/2008 . $923.72 34506784812

Last edited by Lotus99; 03-18-2014 at 08:16 PM..
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      04-28-2014, 11:05 AM   #26
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My 2008 E93 has the yellow, brake, ABS & traction lights on, with codes 5DF0 & 5DF1. I just shipped my ABS control module/ pump over to http://modulemaster.com & hope to get it back before the weekend.

Nice instructions & pics on this thread, saves me a bunch (dealer quote was $2600 + labor vs $250 + shipping at modulemaster), lets see how it goes.
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      04-28-2014, 12:39 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosri View Post
My 2008 E93 has the yellow, brake, ABS & traction lights on, with codes 5DF0 & 5DF1. I just shipped my ABS control module/ pump over to http://modulemaster.com & hope to get it back before the weekend.

Nice instructions & pics on this thread, saves me a bunch (dealer quote was $2600 + labor vs $250 + shipping at modulemaster), lets see how it goes.
So if you get the codes, it's the pump for sure? How do you know it's not the control unit?
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      04-28-2014, 12:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
So if you get the codes, it's the pump for sure? How do you know it's not the control unit?
Codes are for the ABS control unit and pump. ModuleMaster said I need to ship both. And you can't drive with the hydraulic unit removed, no brakes.
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      04-28-2014, 03:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosri View Post
Codes are for the ABS control unit and pump. ModuleMaster said I need to ship both. And you can't drive with the hydraulic unit removed, no brakes.
I see. So whichever is broken (pump or control unit), they can fix both?
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      04-28-2014, 04:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus99 View Post
I see. So whichever is broken (pump or control unit), they can fix both?
Yup.
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      05-03-2014, 05:33 PM   #31
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Thumbs up No more Christmas lights on my dash!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosri View Post
My 2008 E93 has the yellow, brake, ABS & traction lights on, with codes 5DF0 & 5DF1. I just shipped my ABS control module/ pump over to http://modulemaster.com & hope to get it back before the weekend.

Nice instructions & pics on this thread, saves me a bunch (dealer quote was $2600 + labor vs $250 + shipping at modulemaster), lets see how it goes.
Got my ABS unit & pump from modulemaster yesterday. Install was easy, then took it to an indie mechanic for a brake fluid flush. No more errors on the dash & ABS/ DSC/ cruise control etc work good.


.
Attached Images
  
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      05-05-2014, 03:52 PM   #32
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Fantastic!

Not sure if I'll tackle taking it off myself, so with the above instructions, hopefully my indy shop will be ok to do it.

And do you know which codes you'll get if it's a wheel sensor that's gone bad instead?
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      11-03-2014, 03:31 PM   #33
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Does anyone know if you have to bleed the brakes twice after installing the new ABS? Once after install, and once after activation? Or, can I install it, run the ABS unit with my Bavarian Technic tool, then bleed once?
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      11-26-2014, 08:31 AM   #34
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Great thread. I've just had ABS warning lights and CC-id 24 236 354. Hopefully it could be related to something less expensive, but at least I know there are cheaper options if I have a faulty pump.
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      12-29-2014, 01:23 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Coupe4Me View Post
Here is the direct link for the part. http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/p...506777164.html

I have the electrical unit alone for sale if you need.
I see this is very old post but maybe you remember details
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1073208
That seems I have problem, so question is :
Is possible to swap control unit without removing pump ? If I need to change this would like to avoid bleeding part (2 screw are on down side). Also, do you still have control unit and what is part number ?

Thank you in advance,
Dejan
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      01-21-2015, 08:53 AM   #36
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Yes, you can swap out the DSC control module without disconnecting brake lines. I recently did this with my 2008 335i. You have to carefully lift the assembly out of the car to remove the module but it is possible. 3 or 4 nuts secure the pump to the chassis. Some engine compartment covers need to come out. So, no need to bleed lines. Just be careful to not distort the brake lines as you manipulate the unit up out of the engine bay. May take 2 people to do this, one to hold the unit up, the other to remove the module.

My issue is that I need to code my DSC module to my car. I installed a used unit (my original DSC module went bad) and now I've got all the dash warning lights, because the new (used) DSC module I installed is not matched to my car.

I'm exploring ways to do this myself, without having to resort with going to the dealer. Can anybody recommend an Android or Macintosh software/hardware combo that could do this job?

Greg
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      01-21-2015, 11:01 AM   #37
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My problem seems to have gone away - it was either a slow on a rear tyre confusing the system, or the fact I went out driving a few weeks ago in some very wet slippery weather and gave the ABS a proper workout - I had read that this had cured the problem for a few people - without understanding fully how the ABS system works, could if be possibly for the pump become stiff through lack of use?

Last edited by Emeye; 01-21-2015 at 04:17 PM..
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      01-21-2015, 02:10 PM   #38
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ABS/DSC error don't need to be related always to pump. IF this is pump and problem is gone you still need to fix it, this is just temporary showing OK.

Whay I've seen in past possible problem to show DSC error and completly dissable this is :
- one tire low pressure
- bad alignment (guy who did alignment didn't fixed steering wheel in "0" position)
- for a while driving with strong side wind (you have always steering wheel in some angle higher than 2/360 when going straight.
- ... etc, anything what can confuse car about wheel speed vs steering wheel angle vs lateral sensor vs ...
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      01-21-2015, 04:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allotherareused View Post
ABS/DSC error don't need to be related always to pump. IF this is pump and problem is gone you still need to fix it, this is just temporary showing OK.

Whay I've seen in past possible problem to show DSC error and completly dissable this is :
- one tire low pressure
- bad alignment (guy who did alignment didn't fixed steering wheel in "0" position)
- for a while driving with strong side wind (you have always steering wheel in some angle higher than 2/360 when going straight.
- ... etc, anything what can confuse car about wheel speed vs steering wheel angle vs lateral sensor vs ...
So the slow on my rear tyre could have been the cause? Interesting.
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      01-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #40
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sorry but English is not my first language and I am not getting "slow on tyre", but basicly :

If one tyre diameter wasn't same as other tyre diameter after 10-20 KM you should get first flat tyre indicator followed by DSC dissabled, traction control dissabled, etc ...

If you didn't has flat tyre indicator problem is in some "other" sensor or DSC module. Said "other" sensor to exclude wheel speed sensors which are directly giving speed and match tyre pressure.
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      01-21-2015, 05:29 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allotherareused View Post
sorry but English is not my first language and I am not getting "slow on tyre", but basicly :

If one tyre diameter wasn't same as other tyre diameter after 10-20 KM you should get first flat tyre indicator followed by DSC dissabled, traction control dissabled, etc ...

If you didn't has flat tyre indicator problem is in some "other" sensor or DSC module. Said "other" sensor to exclude wheel speed sensors which are directly giving speed and match tyre pressure.
By a slow, I mean the tyre is slowly losing air. For example a rim leak. So the tyre goes down over time.
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      01-21-2015, 07:17 PM   #42
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yes, this is reason, and as I said before : you should have flat tyre indicator first, then DSC/DTC dissabled.
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      01-27-2015, 08:56 AM   #43
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I went the Module Master route for my wife's 2007 328i. FedEx will be delivering the part today and I am going to work on it tonight.

As far as the bleeding process is concerned can anyone walk me through exactly what I need to do? I know how to bleed brakes but is cycling the pump necessary since I am just getting a repair and no coding is needed?
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      01-27-2015, 11:55 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStang View Post
I went the Module Master route for my wife's 2007 328i. FedEx will be delivering the part today and I am going to work on it tonight.

As far as the bleeding process is concerned can anyone walk me through exactly what I need to do? I know how to bleed brakes but is cycling the pump necessary since I am just getting a repair and no coding is needed?
If you change only hydraulic part you don't need to recode anything. If model is same this is 2 or 4 screw to separate electronic bloc and put back your original.

If you change all, you need to code it, to write vin, probably to initialize all sensor, lateral, steering wheel, possibly to change brake sensors because can't reset it and this show your brake pads are on 255% ... to much trouble.

As per bleeding my favorite (easy) way is :
when you assemble before tighten all 6 tube start slowly pressing pedal until one by one don't have air anymore (2 man job in 5 min done). At this point you are 90% done.

As fluid is recommended to be changed on 2 years, and you need to do all of it ... well, now just change fluid

As you in first step have bleed completely hydro unit and in fluid replacement you have bleed everything else ... you are done.

You also can use options and software to activate one by one wheel and pump but if you do properly my easy way probably don't need it. Do it if you have, I did it with DIS, don't know how to activate pump with inpa (this is possible).
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