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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY M3/OEM Upper & Lower Control Arms



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      12-07-2014, 08:40 AM   #67
JamesT335I
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thanks for the information, this is going to make it so quick to do when i get these arms in the spring!
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      12-08-2014, 08:15 PM   #68
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Noob question, but from what I could tell in the comparison pics, the only difference between the oem 335i arms & the M3 arms are the bushings. The thickness appears to be identical
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      01-08-2015, 07:48 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giggling_Donkey View Post
Noob question, but from what I could tell in the comparison pics, the only difference between the oem 335i arms & the M3 arms are the bushings. The thickness appears to be identical
thickness, angle and bushing.
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      01-08-2015, 07:48 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicknico View Post
nice DIY

Thx!
more than welcome!
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      01-31-2015, 03:04 PM   #71
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average time to do this?
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      02-04-2015, 09:06 AM   #72
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Hi,
I'm about to do this on my 330d and thinking of doing the same on the rear...

Does anyone know if the same applies, ie a direct replacement?

Thanks
James

Last edited by jamesmcbride; 02-04-2015 at 12:26 PM..
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      02-04-2015, 10:12 PM   #73
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Just did this today. Pretty straightforward install. No air tools and it took about 3 1/2 - 4 hours. I had one t40 that would not move and twisted my socket so I had to cut it off. Aside from that not to bad. You do need 18 inch wrench and socket as mentioned. Also as mentioned you need another 10 mm nut for the leveling arm which did not come in the kit from ecs. I had to file off the burs from the original arm on the frame as the made groves that would not allowe to install the new arms. Once I cleared them I was able to get them in. Steering feels tighter but definitely need an alignment which is first thing in the morning.

This was a forced upgrade as a NY pothole actually resulted in the driver front arm to crack and break. 07 e93 80k.
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      02-18-2015, 06:32 PM   #74
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Finally got mine done today. It was a bit of a pain, one of the T40's snapped 3 torx bits, the rest came out with impact driver in seconds!
After my initial drive, it definitely feels a lot tighter, quieter and smoother, but the alignment is definitely way out now. It almost feels dangerous cornering at anything more than 20mph! When you take it to have the alignment done, do you need to tell them that it has M3 arms (or M3 suspension), or do they just adjust it till it's correct?
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      02-19-2015, 08:52 AM   #75
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Just had my alignment done, but my camber is only -0.55 each side, is that ok?

My alignment sheet: http://1drv.ms/1w0JxPq
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      02-19-2015, 09:23 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesmcbride View Post
Just had my alignment done, but my camber is only -0.55 each side, is that ok?

My alignment sheet: http://1drv.ms/1w0JxPq
remove the alignment pin in strut tower and max it out. Should be around -1.4 to -1.5
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      02-19-2015, 09:57 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
remove the alignment pin in strut tower and max it out. Should be around -1.4 to -1.5
Thanks, do I need to get it re-aligned again after that then? Will it cause harm driving it as it is?

Thanks again
James
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      04-24-2015, 11:57 PM   #78
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Hi guys, looking for some answers here. I am looking at the following control arm from autopartsway.ca for my 2011 335xi coupe:

http://www.autopartsway.ca/partdetai...33-1779604/trw

The TRW part number they refer to is: TRW1779604. Is this the correct part number for the tension strut? Autopartsway.ca does not seem to have this part under 2011 bmw m3 but rather under a bmw x1... I can't seem to find this part number anywhere else.
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      06-27-2015, 09:46 PM   #79
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hey rob got a quick question...my alignment is bad i just installed my self...am not sure if i did something wrong but...when i lock the steering to the left or right while driving it doesnt roll back to the center of the steering wheel it just stays totally locked...normal for these M3 control arms?...or did i put the lower arm the opposite sides...one last thing am driving a Right hand drive 335i is the head light leveling sensor on the left side like mine? just curious...Thanks Rob and nice DIY!!!
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      06-28-2015, 01:38 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BX TT3 View Post
Completed this install and without dropping the steering rack, but now I have an issue where when I turn the steering full lock in either direction I hear a sort of popping sound. And instead of the steering trying to return back to center it try to turn in the direction the the wheels are facing most. Intermittent popping while going straight also. Any ideas what could be causing this? I have a camber plate at the top of the shocks I tried to zero them out at it got worse. Putting it back to max new camber today to see what happens. Any help would be appreciated
hey got the same issue how did u resolve this...any help right would be awesome...
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      07-06-2015, 09:11 AM   #81
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I got mine installed this weekend. Can't really tell difference with the stiffer bushings. I also have bad shuttering after 60mph. Got an alignment and wheels balanced but I may check out road force balancing next.
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      07-20-2015, 01:49 PM   #82
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got it

i just ordered my TRW Front Tension Strut - Left-Right and my FRont control arm left n right from ECS everything under 400$ free shipping
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      08-14-2015, 05:50 PM   #83
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So the guys that got these, how is the car after the alignment ?
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      08-17-2015, 03:15 PM   #84
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Hello,

I've just did the upgrade yesterday, and today i took the car to the tires plus for alignment but they told they cant align it because the computer doesnt the give values for m3 mods.

What do I need to tell them exactly? That shouldn't be that hard i guess so.
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      05-23-2016, 06:55 PM   #85
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Is this worth it over the oem spec ones? Not sure if I want to spend the extra $$ when FCP has aftermarket oem specs for $170
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      05-24-2016, 10:00 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb21111
Is this worth it over the oem spec ones? Not sure if I want to spend the extra $$ when FCP has aftermarket oem specs for $170
it's personal preference.

when I installed mine, I was so delighted with the camber improvement and steering response that I totally ignored NVH that comes with the m3 tension strut. I eventually removed the tension struts and went back to stock, but kept the m3 wishbones.

most people who add them seem to like them. then again, you may see some improvement from switching to new stock parts.
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      08-08-2016, 08:55 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maupineda View Post
Totally agree, the only problem is that there was no way to get them in, while tighten them i did it very slowly making sure all mating surface sat. or maybe I was just not doing it the right way. I applied lube, use my rubber mallet and nothing, I had to file to eliminate all burs but still had open the ends. I jsut went to a quick drive and the response of the steering is completely improved, much more eager to steering wheel inputs. I think I did a good job by aligning the car to a point that is drive-able and tomorrow morning to the shop! Thanks Rob!
I am in the process of doing mine and holy crap, getting the wishbones to pop into the subframe has been painful. I am slowly filing down the burrs and edge of the section to help get them in, but it has been a multiple hour affair. A standard metal file is a bit large and hard to maneuver to get a flat spot to work the areas I want to. How have others removed the burrs in this area?
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      08-08-2016, 10:24 AM   #88
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2013 BMW 335is  [8.84]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmellyGreek
Quote:
Originally Posted by maupineda View Post
Totally agree, the only problem is that there was no way to get them in, while tighten them i did it very slowly making sure all mating surface sat. or maybe I was just not doing it the right way. I applied lube, use my rubber mallet and nothing, I had to file to eliminate all burs but still had open the ends. I jsut went to a quick drive and the response of the steering is completely improved, much more eager to steering wheel inputs. I think I did a good job by aligning the car to a point that is drive-able and tomorrow morning to the shop! Thanks Rob!
I am in the process of doing mine and holy crap, getting the wishbones to pop into the subframe has been painful. I am slowly filing down the burrs and edge of the section to help get them in, but it has been a multiple hour affair. A standard metal file is a bit large and hard to maneuver to get a flat spot to work the areas I want to. How have others removed the burrs in this area?
A dremel with a small grinding stone will work.
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