[Slowdr1v3r]

Whats up guys.
So ive been having this misfire issue. Was driving the car on the highway cruising. Downshifted to do a pull and the car sounded like a subaru. Engine malfunction came on and the SES light was flashing. Now everytime i got over about 60% throttle the same thing happens. It does not happen by RPM only seems to happen with load. The car has started idling a little rough since the problem started. I keep getting a few codes on the jb4

2EE0-Random multiple misfire
2EE2-" "
2EF1- Cylinder 5 misifre
2EFE- Random multiple misfire
2F03- Cylinder 5 misfire detected

When I check on a regular scanner just get

P0305- Cylinder 5 misfire detected


New coil packs and plugs. Less than 2000 miles on them. (swapped those out just to be on the safe side still happened). Pulled the plug to check it and still looks new. Also tried swapping the injector on that cylinder and got it coded. Reset all the adaptations and everything and still getting those codes. Last night what I did was make the car misfire then pulled over to see if I could pinpoint what was going on. Disconnected the cylinder 5 coil pack and idle did not change so it seems as though there was no signal going to that pack. Cleared the code and the car started idling fine again. Little rough but not a cylinder short like before. Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Car details are as follows. Also tried removing the JB4 to see if it could have been an issue with the JB4 but still having the same thing. LPFP is reading around 60 at idle jumping up to 74 with load. Hpfp was around 6 jumping up to about 14 under load and from what I was reading is normal readings on them.

2013 Bmw 335i Xdrive.
63k miles
New plugs and coil packs done less than 2k miles ago.(gapped to stock)
JB4
Catless DP
Chargepipe
Running e30 but switched back to 93 to see if it helped the issue with no luck.

Thanks in Advanced for the help.

[deemarr 335i]

Similar issue but cylinder 4 for me, pulls fine on map 4 and map 0 jb4, any other map tho it starts breaking up at 3k wit 100% throttle....ignore the lpfp value, n55 doesn't have a lpfp sensor.

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

New coil packs and plugs. Less than 2000 miles on them. (swapped those out just to be on the safe side still happened).

Just curious if you changed this before or after you were having the misfire issue? Also, did you try moving the plug from cylinder 5 to a different spot to see if it follows?

[Pladi]

if your misfires are under load, or during highway speeds the MHD logs help determine sometimes if it a fueling issue ..

So having those helps.

On another note if your coils have been replaced recently you could just have one bad coil or spark plug. The DME can report "multiple or random" misfire codes even when only one cylinder is the culprit. I have seen this with N20 engines.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by deemarr 335i

Similar issue but cylinder 4 for me, pulls fine on map 4 and map 0 jb4, any other map tho it starts breaking up at 3k wit 100% throttle....ignore the lpfp value, n55 doesn't have a lpfp sensor.

Oh I didn't know the n55 didnt have a sensor for that. Thanks. And I tried switching to map 0, 1, 2, and 4 with no luck. Also removed the jb4 entirely to see if maybe there was an issue with that and problem continued.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

Just curious if you changed this before or after you were having the misfire issue? Also, did you try moving the plug from cylinder 5 to a different spot to see if it follows?

Before. I did it just as maintenance to avoid issues. Car was running great. And the thing that makes me think its electrical is that the issue just started aggressively out of no where. Didn't start lightly. I have a video of it happening but I dont know how I could post it here. Also I did not swap the plug. Just the packs because the plug is in perfect shape. Ill try it just to remove all doubt.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by Pladi

if your misfires are under load, or during highway speeds the MHD logs help determine sometimes if it a fueling issue ..

So having those helps.

On another note if your coils have been replaced recently you could just have one bad coil or spark plug. The DME can report "multiple or random" misfire codes even when only one cylinder is the culprit. I have seen this with N20 engines.

MHD I dont have unfortunately. I can load some logs with the JB4. I would just have to install it again. And its weird because the JB4 logs all these codes but an actual scanner(generic one) only reads P0305 which is cylinder 5 misfire.

[Pladi]

I have heard this many times before when coils are replaced misfire issues start. Generally it takes some time to adapt. I would just reseat the coils and make sure that they are seated well especially the clip and the boot around the lip.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by Pladi

I have heard this many times before when coils are replaced misfire issues start. Generally it takes some time to adapt. I would just reseat the coils and make sure that they are seated well especially the clip and the boot around the lip.

It didnt start right when i swapped them though. I have about 2k miles on them and were not touched since. The clip I checked and made sure was in. I was wondering if there was any way I could check the ignition wire harness that goes to the injectors and coil packs just to make sure theres not an issue there. Like voltage or something when the issue starts to make sure its sending signal to the coil pack.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

It didnt start right when i swapped them though. I have about 2k miles on them and were not touched since. The clip I checked and made sure was in. I was wondering if there was any way I could check the ignition wire harness that goes to the injectors and coil packs just to make sure theres not an issue there. Like voltage or something when the issue starts to make sure its sending signal to the coil pack.

Yes you can check that but its low voltage and you need an oscilloscope..

Some good FLuke multimeters will do it too with the DC settings

[Slowdr1v3r]

Damn. I have a pretty good snap on multimeter but no oscilloscope. I can try but idk that it will help. But wouldnt something like that have to be on AC because of the way it operates?

[Slowdr1v3r]

Just looked up the oscilloscope. Regular multimeter probably not cutting it like you said lol.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Switched plug to see and nothing. One thing I did try was disconnecting the coil pack while it was running normal and when I plugged it back in all good again. Then did the same with the injector and it shut the cylinder down throws the engine malfunction and runs like garbage just like it does while driving. Could the ecu be messed up and shutting the cylinder off? Or an issue with the wiring to the injector making the ecu think there’s an error and throwing a fail safe or something?

[OneMoreAlex]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

Switched plug to see and nothing. One thing I did try was disconnecting the coil pack while it was running normal and when I plugged it back in all good again. Then did the same with the injector and it shut the cylinder down throws the engine malfunction and runs like garbage just like it does while driving. Could the ecu be messed up and shutting the cylinder off? Or an issue with the wiring to the injector making the ecu think there’s an error and throwing a fail safe or something?

It's possible that it could be one of the MOSFET chips on the ECU board that's gone bad. You could use a multimeter to buzz each one out. Also, I'm pretty sure there's a fail-safe in the ecu that once it recognizes that there's a problem with the injector it will shut that cylinder down.

One other question- what's the health of the battery? Some funky stuff like this happens when your battery is on it's way out.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

It's possible that it could be one of the MOSFET chips on the ECU board that's gone bad. You could use a multimeter to buzz each one out. Also, I'm pretty sure there's a fail-safe in the ecu that once it recognizes that there's a problem with the injector it will shut that cylinder down.

One other question- what's the health of the battery? Some funky stuff like this happens when your battery is on it's way out.

I will definitely look into that. Any links or anything regarding checking the ecu and also on that fail safe? im gonna check also but didnt know if maybe you had some experience there or knew of a good thread concerning these.

Also ordered a new ignition harness off ebay which will replace the ignition and fuel connectors in case there is a bad wire there. 60$ on ebay so cant really go wrong to rule that out.

And the battery was replaced maybe a year ago by the dealer when it was still under warranty.

[Slowdr1v3r]

Swapped the harness and no luck. Also did a compression test to rule that out and they were almost all the same across the board around 200 after cranking for about 4-5 seconds. Really have no clue as to what else to do at this point.

[deemarr 335i]

Originally Posted by Slowdr1v3r

Swapped the harness and no luck. Also did a compression test to rule that out and they were almost all the same across the board around 200 after cranking for about 4-5 seconds. Really have no clue as to what else to do at this point.

Maybe dme? I'm in the same boat, for me anything over 12psi and maybe 70% throttle it breaks up and I let off. 10 psi it pulls no problem.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by deemarr 335i

Maybe dme? I'm in the same boat, for me anything over 12psi and maybe 70% throttle it breaks up and I let off. 10 psi it pulls no problem.

Yours Sounds more fuel related. Dying lpfp or fried ekp module.

[deemarr 335i]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Yours Sounds more fuel related. Dying lpfp or fried ekp module.

Ok thanks bro I'm gonna look into it......lpfp is a stage 2 bucketless I got like 6 months ago, but I'll check it out.

[bbnks2]

i would think a fueling issue would present on more than 1 cylinder. Re-swap coils, plugs, and injectors one by one with another good cylinder. Did you verify LPFP is creating and holding 74.x psi prior to cranking? Do you have lots of knock on that cylinder prior to the misfires?

Are you F-series? E-series does not have a LPFP sensor, but a value of 60psi rail pressure prior to cranking would indicate a weak LPFP. If you're talking about JB4 values then I have no idea what you mean as they all require some kind of conversion to get to the actual values (e.g. HPFP 14 = 2100psi which is normal and does not indicate a problem). HPFP should read around 5 or 6 at idle.

On the E-series, I recall that the LPFP value on the JB4 can be switch on the display the value of some other measure (I don't recall what exactly the value is of but it is NOT your LPFP pressure lol).

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by deemarr 335i

Maybe dme? I'm in the same boat, for me anything over 12psi and maybe 70% throttle it breaks up and I let off. 10 psi it pulls no problem.

If you figure out your issue please post it. Need to get this sorted. Tired of driving the daily lol (cr-v)

[Slowdr1v3r]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

i would think a fueling issue would present on more than 1 cylinder. Re-swap coils, plugs, and injectors one by one with another good cylinder. Did you verify LPFP is creating and holding 74.x psi prior to cranking? Do you have lots of knock on that cylinder prior to the misfires?

Are you F-series? E-series does not have a LPFP sensor, but a value of 60psi rail pressure prior to cranking would indicate a weak LPFP. If you're talking about JB4 values then I have no idea what you mean as they all require some kind of conversion to get to the actual values (e.g. HPFP 14 = 2100psi which is normal and does not indicate a problem). HPFP should read around 5 or 6 at idle.

On the E-series, I recall that the LPFP value on the JB4 can be switch on the display the value of some other measure (I don't recall what exactly the value is of but it is NOT your LPFP pressure lol).

Tried swapping 2 different working coils and plugs with no luck. Mine is E series and when I posted the LPFP values I didnt know the car didnt have a sensor for that. But as you mentioned if it was fuel It would have affected more cylinders. And I never checked for knock. Dont know how. I just feel like it is electrical because problem went from 0-100. Started at the full extent. Last time I turned it on it has a pretty strong misfire at idle and drove like crap. I did change the gap from .30 to .22 to see if that would help. Pretty much trying anything I can. Going to hook the jb4 back up tonight see if it will help and also the AFRs. Tried calling a local shop but they said they did not have an opening until October and can not test the DME. Waiting to hear back from another shop. Running out of ideas I can check myself.