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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > All COBB Tuning AccessPORT Flash for N54 335i Discussion Here



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      09-27-2012, 07:21 PM   #6249
Carl Morris
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I wanted to mention that I've also been pushing the car hard on stock hardware and E85:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748583

While I'm looking forward to getting the Helix FMIC installed, I think running hard for short bursts on stock hardware is fine. Not that many of us go out and run road courses or just full throttle for more than 10 seconds very often.
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      09-27-2012, 07:37 PM   #6250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Morris View Post
I wanted to mention that I've also been pushing the car hard on stock hardware and E85:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748583

While I'm looking forward to getting the Helix FMIC installed, I think running hard for short bursts on stock hardware is fine. Not that many of us go out and run road courses or just full throttle for more than 10 seconds very often.
Nice,

we use a Very similar Dyno. well same name anyway.
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      09-29-2012, 09:30 AM   #6251
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V4 maps

quick one for you all, for some reason my car is not in agreement with ST, the main thing is the delivery and gear changes. This on happens on the ST maps (doesn’t matter which one) occasionally. When going from about 70km to 50km the car changes gear with a rev trust, no jerk or roughness you see the rev serges a little into gear you can just feel it. On the LT maps never happens. also going up a slight hill at lowish speeds does the same thing.

any toughts?
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      09-30-2012, 10:24 PM   #6252
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Just wondering if someone could help me out with a couple questions. What is the difference between 'LT' and 'ST'? What is the difference between 'Drive' and 'Sport'?

Stage 0 - Stock Map

Stage 1 LT Aggressive
Stage 1 ST Aggressive

Stage 1 LT Drive
Stage 1 ST Drive

Stage 1 LT Sport
Stage 1 ST Sport

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      09-30-2012, 10:27 PM   #6253
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LT = linear throttle
ST = stock throttle

I don't know the exact throttle curve, but the essential idea is whereas with LT you would press the pedal 20% and get 20% of throttle (think regular linear function), with ST it's curved towards the beginning (think a logarithmic curve). This is for cases where you want to have more predictable throttle control.

Sport is a little bit more aggressive than Drive, but marginally so.
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      09-30-2012, 10:30 PM   #6254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
LT = linear throttle
ST = stock throttle

I don't know the exact throttle curve, but the essential idea is whereas with LT you would press the pedal 20% and get 20% of throttle (think regular linear function), with ST it's curved towards the beginning (think a logarithmic curve). This is for cases where you want to have more predictable throttle control.

Sport is a little bit more aggressive than Drive, but marginally so.
Thanks for the fast reply I appreciate it. I am waiting for new spark plugs to arrive this week so I can change them out because I got a misfire on the aggressive map last week. I changed to map 0 (stock) and tonight I was kind of bored and was going to try SPORT which is a little less than AGGRESSIVE but then I noticed the DRIVE option as well as was a little confused. Thanks for clarifying.
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      09-30-2012, 10:32 PM   #6255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaginwagon13 View Post
Thanks for the fast reply I appreciate it. I am waiting for new spark plugs to arrive this week so I can change them out because I got a misfire on the aggressive map last week. I changed to map 0 (stock) and tonight I was kind of bored and was going to try SPORT which is a little less than AGGRESSIVE but then I noticed the DRIVE option as well as was a little confused. Thanks for clarifying.
Np. I think there's a bit too many options to be fair. It should be "stock", "some power", and "burn rubber" as far as I'm concerned.
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      09-30-2012, 10:35 PM   #6256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
Np. I think there's a bit too many options to be fair. It should be "stock", "some power", and "burn rubber" as far as I'm concerned.
haha Agreed. I just got the COBB last week so I am still getting used to what everything means and how to work the unit. I drove around tonight with the 'Live Monitor' setting on the PSI of my turbos that was pretty neat lol


How can I find out what PSI Aggressive, Sport and Drive will be running at? Like I said I misfired last week on Aggressive so until the replacement spark plugs come in I can be running the boost set to the aggressive map.
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      09-30-2012, 10:37 PM   #6257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaginwagon13 View Post
haha Agreed. I just got the COBB last week so I am still getting used to what everything means and how to work the unit. I drove around tonight with the 'Live Monitor' setting on the PSI of my turbos that was pretty neat lol


How can I find out what PSI Aggressive, Sport and Drive will be running at? Like I said I misfired last week on Aggressive so until the replacement spark plugs come in I can be running the boost set to the aggressive map.
Just do a few 3rd gear pulls at WOT and data log. Nothing bad will happen, and you'll know what psi you're running.
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      09-30-2012, 10:49 PM   #6258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
Just do a few 3rd gear pulls at WOT and data log. Nothing bad will happen, and you'll know what psi you're running.
Should I go to all the way to Redline?
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      09-30-2012, 10:51 PM   #6259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaginwagon13 View Post
Should I go to all the way to Redline?
You don't have to as long as you max out the boost. Generally you should be hitting max boost around ... ugh, I can't think off hand, but probably before 6,000 rpm if memory serves.
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      09-30-2012, 11:09 PM   #6260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
You don't have to as long as you max out the boost. Generally you should be hitting max boost around ... ugh, I can't think off hand, but probably before 6,000 rpm if memory serves.
Perfect... again thanks for your help and fast replies. I am sure I will have more questions over the next couple of days so I will post them lol
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      09-30-2012, 11:10 PM   #6261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaginwagon13 View Post
Perfect... again thanks for your help and fast replies. I am sure I will have more questions over the next couple of days so I will post them lol
np, enjoy the drugs.......er....... i mean the newfound power. lol.
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      10-01-2012, 12:32 AM   #6262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
np, enjoy the drugs.......er....... i mean the newfound power. lol.
haha
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      10-01-2012, 04:12 AM   #6263
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After i installed the COBB i got the engine light in my dashboard and when i read the codes with the COBB it says ECU - P2A18. I have tried to clear it and it pops right back up, also reset the learning abilities but it did not help either. any suggestions? anyone know what this is?
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      10-01-2012, 04:40 AM   #6264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3dnax View Post
After i installed the COBB i got the engine light in my dashboard and when i read the codes with the COBB it says ECU - P2A18. I have tried to clear it and it pops right back up, also reset the learning abilities but it did not help either. any suggestions? anyone know what this is?
you can search for codes in the forum. you can select by post , this is what i found with a search
2A18:
2A18 DMTL diagnosis module tank leakage, heating: input signal

The 2A18 code is due your car not having the same emissions control systems as a USDM car. Is it causing a engine light on the dash?
Are you using latest firmware and maps?
Basically is emissions related to shouldnt affect anything.
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      10-01-2012, 11:57 AM   #6265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaginwagon13 View Post
Should I go to all the way to Redline?
I go to 6400 rpm. here is a good read by rader1

I send this out quite a bit because its great read and it helps a lot of people who are just beginning to log with COBB. It should be a sticky, but I don't think it will happen.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
You don't have to as long as you max out the boost. Generally you should be hitting max boost around ... ugh, I can't think off hand, but probably before 6,000 rpm if memory serves.
If you are WOT on OTS, you should hit max boost (mid range) around 4k and it tapers down ~11 psi to redline. That how my boosts read anyway (AT). Depending on Sport or Aggressive your average peak numbers will vary.
S1 Sport +-14 ~ 11
S1 Agg +-15 ~ 11
S1+ Agg +-18 ~ 11
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      10-01-2012, 12:02 PM   #6266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pseudo Nim View Post
LT = linear throttle
ST = stock throttle

I don't know the exact throttle curve, but the essential idea is whereas with LT you would press the pedal 20% and get 20% of throttle (think regular linear function), with ST it's curved towards the beginning (think a logarithmic curve). This is for cases where you want to have more predictable throttle control.

Sport is a little bit more aggressive than Drive, but marginally so.
+1

ST you will feel with little ped pos. you get accelerated power

I use ST with OTS MAPs, On my Pro E-Tune I am using a Custom LT. There was too much power for me just on cruz mode with using a ST approach.
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      10-01-2012, 12:05 PM   #6267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 View Post
If you are WOT on OTS, you should hit max boost (mid range) around 4k and it tapers down ~11 psi to redline. That how my boosts read anyway (AT). Depending on Sport or Aggressive your average peak numbers will vary.
S1 Sport +-14 ~ 11
S1 Agg +-15 ~ 11
S1+ Agg +-18 ~ 11
4K makes sense, now that I think back to it.
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      10-05-2012, 09:19 AM   #6268
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I was wondering if there was a USB adapter that I could buy that would plug into the COBB V2B cable allowing me to bridge my laptop and my car? Basically I wanted to connect my laptop to my car and wanted to use the COBB cable. Is this possible?

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      10-07-2012, 03:52 PM   #6269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaginwagon13 View Post
I was wondering if there was a USB adapter that I could buy that would plug into the COBB V2B cable allowing me to bridge my laptop and my car? Basically I wanted to connect my laptop to my car and wanted to use the COBB cable. Is this possible?

It will not work. Just buy cheap D-can from ebay. And don't mess with Cobb cable.
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      10-07-2012, 03:58 PM   #6270
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Does anybody know how to properly measure time 0-60 using Cobb ap I've tried several times so when I'm accelerating hard from zero stop it shows nothing just symbols "-" when I'm accelerate slowly it shows the real time.

Any advice?
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