[Fully_Bolted]

Originally Posted by Centex Hokie

I've been running logs on my automatic and decided to add two (2) items to the log (gear and speed). After putting in my FMIC I went out to do some logs with Stage 1+FMIC to make sure there were no codes. I put the car in DS and shift to M3, hold the car steady at 2,500 rpm, and then hit WOT. All of the logs show that the car shifts down to M2 before I shift it at 6,500 or so and then go through M3 to 6,500 or so and onto M4. My question is how do you keep the car from shifting down to M2 when you go WOT? Is there a setting I need to change?

Thanks.

There is a kickdown switch on the gas pedal. You will feel a slight resistance right before pressing it all the way - thats the kickdown. Just before the kickdown engages is 100% throttle, so just practice going WOT without hitting the actual kickdown.

[mump]

Originally Posted by nick_r

Can i use a cobb AP on a 335i MT eudm MY 2006?

We can try. I am in Kaiserslautern, Germany and run a Cobb on my US spec car.

I can uninstall it and try out your car to see if it works.... and maybe you can bring some good Belgium beers with you.

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by Fully_Bolted

There is a kickdown switch on the gas pedal. You will feel a slight resistance right before pressing it all the way - thats the kickdown. Just before the kickdown engages is 100% throttle, so just practice going WOT without hitting the actual kickdown.

Thanks. I'll try that.

[marv85]

Originally Posted by nick_r

No, emailed cobb,no reply

I think you can... A lot of people in europe run COBB. Enrita is one of them, may be he can chime in

[marv85]

Originally Posted by mump

We can try. I am in Kaiserslautern, Germany and run a Cobb on my US spec car.

I can uninstall it and try out your car to see if it works.... and maybe you can bring some good Belgium beers with you.

that's another good plan

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Centex Hokie

Thanks. I'll try that.

Give me a min. I'll show you what I did. It's white trash, but it works like a charm. Lol

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by Centex Hokie

I've been running logs on my automatic and decided to add two (2) items to the log (gear and speed). After putting in my FMIC I went out to do some logs with Stage 1+FMIC to make sure there were no codes. I put the car in DS and shift to M3, hold the car steady at 2,500 rpm, and then hit WOT. All of the logs show that the car shifts down to M2 before I shift it at 6,500 or so and then go through M3 to 6,500 or so and onto M4. My question is how do you keep the car from shifting down to M2 when you go WOT? Is there a setting I need to change?

Thanks.

You can feel the kickdown button when you go WOT, it is very tough to not hit it and my best was WOT at 3700 RPM, in fear of hitting the kickdown.

So I did some searching and came up with this solution. It is still temporary as I have not made it fixed. Still figuring if I want this fixed or a Velcro solution to take it on and off.

here was my solution, completely free Essentially, the spacer prevents from hitting the kickdown. the best way is to get something about 1/4" - 5/16" spacer. Plug in the COBB and have it connected to the car. You will need the car on the on position but not started. Display on the COBB screen APP Accelerated Pedal Position. Place the spacer where I have it, and with your hand, push the pedal all the way down to the spacer. Ensure your APP is at 100% with a little force to ensure you are down all the way. Then of course test it out, put in the M3, step on it and ensure your APP is at 100% and you didn't get the kick down. you are all set. See link below for the kickdown thread. some people on there have made some great fixed solutions.





here was my inspiration:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598090

[Fun w/N54]

So left work yesterday with Stage 1+ agg map still loaded and lpfp did not prime again when car was unlocked. Drove home and then loaded Stage 1+ sport. Locked car and went in for dinner. Popped the trunk few hours later and heard pump. Locked car for the night. Can out this AM and unlocked car, no priming occured. First time trying these 1+ maps and never had issue on Stage 1 maps (IJEOS).

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Fun w/N54

So left work yesterday with Stage 1+ agg map still loaded and lpfp did not prime again when car was unlocked. Drove home and then loaded Stage 1+ sport. Locked car and went in for dinner. Popped the trunk few hours later and heard pump. Locked car for the night. Can out this AM and unlocked car, no priming occured. First time trying these 1+ maps and never had issue on Stage 1 maps (IJEOS).

Just for fun, load the stage 2+ map and see if it makes a difference (give the car enough off time before you try again..)

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by Fun w/N54

So left work yesterday with Stage 1+ agg map still loaded and lpfp did not prime again when car was unlocked. Drove home and then loaded Stage 1+ sport. Locked car and went in for dinner. Popped the trunk few hours later and heard pump. Locked car for the night. Can out this AM and unlocked car, no priming occured. First time trying these 1+ maps and never had issue on Stage 1 maps (IJEOS).

I have the same ECU (IJEOS) and I don't hear the pump prime on Stage 1+ Aggressive. I think you may be on to something.

[Fun w/N54]

Glad I'm not crazy or the only one. How long have you been running 1+? Have you ever tried State 1??

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by Fun w/N54

Glad I'm not crazy or the only one. How long have you been running 1+? Have you ever tried State 1??

I put in my FMIC last Friday and changed to Stage 1+ on Saturday. I was running Stage 1 Aggressive for a week or so before. I can't say for sure without playing around that the pump was priming on Stage 1, but I am pretty sure it was. I am sure that it is not now.

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

You can feel the kickdown button when you go WOT, it is very tough to not hit it and my best was WOT at 3700 RPM, in fear of hitting the kickdown.

So I did some searching and came up with this solution. It is still temporary as I have not made it fixed. Still figuring if I want this fixed or a Velcro solution to take it on and off.

here was my solution, completely free Essentially, the spacer prevents from hitting the kickdown. the best way is to get something about 1/4" - 5/16" spacer. Plug in the COBB and have it connected to the car. You will need the car on the on position but not started. Display on the COBB screen APP Accelerated Pedal Position. Place the spacer where I have it, and with your hand, push the pedal all the way down to the spacer. Ensure your APP is at 100% with a little force to ensure you are down all the way. Then of course test it out, put in the M3, step on it and ensure your APP is at 100% and you didn't get the kick down. you are all set. See link below for the kickdown thread. some people on there have made some great fixed solutions.





here was my inspiration:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598090

Thanks. Looks like this engineer gets to play this weekend.

[harry$]

Originally Posted by Fun w/N54

So left work yesterday with Stage 1+ agg map still loaded and lpfp did not prime again when car was unlocked. Drove home and then loaded Stage 1+ sport. Locked car and went in for dinner. Popped the trunk few hours later and heard pump. Locked car for the night. Can out this AM and unlocked car, no priming occured. First time trying these 1+ maps and never had issue on Stage 1 maps (IJEOS).

Gentlemen,

I believe you have to cycle the ignition (start the car) every time you disturb the car from its sleep mode in order to have the pump priming,an over sight that BMW has made, you cant come back to open the door or trunk every 30 minutes and the pump will prime every time only with starting the car with every disturbance will the pump prime after entering sleep mode in about 10 minutes.


Uninstall the tune and see if it still operates in this manner.

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by harry$

Gentlemen,

I believe you have to cycle the ignition (start the car) every time you disturb the car from its sleep mode in order to have the pump priming,an over sight that BMW has made, you cant come back to open the door or trunk every 30 minutes and the pump will prime every time only with starting the car with every disturbance will the pump prime after entering sleep mode in about 10 minutes.


Uninstall the tune and see if it still operates in this manner.

I did a simpler test. I turned the ignition on and off, waited 15 minutes and unlocked the car. The pump primes on Stage 1+Fmic Aggressive after this cycle. Thanks for the information.

[COBB Tuning]

Originally Posted by nick_r

Can i use a cobb AP on a 335i MT eudm MY 2006?

You shouldn't have any issue installing the AP so long as the car has the N54 motor.

Ian

[MarkAngelo]

Hello,

We're trying to squeeze as much power as possible out of as little add ons on the N54 platform. Just wanted to know what people have done in the past.

What is the highest stage COBB off the shelf MAP you've tried with just a dual cone intake?

Thanks,

Mark

[enrita]

Originally Posted by MarkAngelo

Hello,

We're trying to squeeze as much power as possible out of as little add ons on the N54 platform. Just wanted to know what people have done in the past.

What is the highest stage COBB off the shelf MAP you've tried with just a dual cone intake?

Thanks,

Mark

depends on octane used. just keep to the recommended maps for the octane and mods...

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by MarkAngelo

Hello,

We're trying to squeeze as much power as possible out of as little add ons on the N54 platform. Just wanted to know what people have done in the past.

What is the highest stage COBB off the shelf MAP you've tried with just a dual cone intake?

Thanks,

Mark

For just a few bucks more you could do a pro E Tune, or Pro tune on top of the COBB. Even with ACN 91. If you have access to 93 and or E85 pump you can really maximize your power.

Your best bet is to just stay what is recommended from COBB. S1 Agg. Is your best if you have access to 93. S1+ Agg. Would be your next step, added FMIC.

[marv85]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

For just a few bucks more you could do a pro E Tune, or Pro tune on top of the COBB. Even with ACN 91. If you have access to 93 and or E85 pump you can really maximize your power.

Your best bet is to just stay what is recommended from COBB. S1 Agg. Is your best if you have access to 93. S1+ Agg. Would be your next step, added FMIC.

+1, without supporting mods nor proper fueling stick to what COBB recommends. You can probably get away with higher power maps but it won't be consistent and you're overstressing your car and riding its knock sensors.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by marv85

+1, without supporting mods nor proper fueling stick to what COBB recommends. You can probably get away with higher power maps but it won't be consistent and you're overstressing your car and riding its knock sensors.

FYI, just about done... I feel we have 1 last MAP version and we should be dialed in. just in time for a great low 70's sunny weekend...

[marv85]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

FYI, just about done... I feel we have 1 last MAP version and we should be dialed in. just in time for a great low 70's sunny weekend...

Lucky you!! Cleaning up throttle closures I presume?


No I'm screwed... Oregon

I'm filling up with E85 tomorrow just in case. Even if I get 5 minute of dry pavement i'll do a quick run because I really want to finish the tuning so I can dyno. There is an HPF event tomorrow that I might attend, Might dyno even with throttle closure...