[bmw335ie90]

IMO, N55 PWG is a terrible platform to do a high power build on. It's time to move on to something different if you want big power, vendors never properly supported it in the past and why would they come back now.

[boostd92]

I'm 100% with you. I work for BMW and get to drive them all, all the time. IMO, nothing beats the steering feel of the E46/E90's. The E36's and earlier were good too, but lack the refinement in the chassis of the E46/E90.

I would also 100% trade my car for an '09/10 N54 sedan if I could find one as nice as mine, but it's nearly impossible. My car is a Lemans Blue, 2011 335i sedan with RWD, 6spd manual, and factory M-Sport. I got it a few years ago with 50k, clean carfax and full service history - it's pristine with all the right stuff on it (coilovers, 335is clutch, nice wheel/tire, real carbon interior, etc etc).

It would be a massive undertaking to try to start over with a N54 car Plus I love my car - it's low, and still is rock solid (no squeaks/rattles, etc). I'm going to have to settle for 450whp on pump PS2, or maybe 525whp with meth and be done.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by boostd92

I'm 100% with you. I work for BMW and get to drive them all, all the time. IMO, nothing beats the steering feel of the E46/E90's. The E36's and earlier were good too, but lack the refinement in the chassis of the E46/E90.

I would also 100% trade my car for an '09/10 N54 sedan if I could find one as nice as mine, but it's nearly impossible. My car is a Lemans Blue, 2011 335i sedan with RWD, 6spd manual, and factory M-Sport. I got it a few years ago with 50k, clean carfax and full service history - it's pristine with all the right stuff on it (coilovers, 335is clutch, nice wheel/tire, real carbon interior, etc etc).

It would be a massive undertaking to try to start over with a N54 car Plus I love my car - it's low, and still is rock solid (no squeaks/rattles, etc). I'm going to have to settle for 450whp on pump PS2, or maybe 525whp with meth and be done.

All is not lost my friend, if you're willing to step away from stock frame hybrid turbos. Check out Big Boost, or also Speedtech. The latter has some new options about to come out for n55. Per realoem, our rods are the same as used in the s55 engine. Our heads have the same size and lift as n54 on the exhaust side, but our intake valves are larger and have more lift than n54. Granted tuning has come along more for n54, but that's mostly because they've been around longer.

I support all n55 development, as more options make it more appealing to tune. The more people tuning this platform, the more development there will be for it. It feeds itself, so we shouldn't down-sell this platform if we want things to improve for it. Hell, if we n55 owners rip on n55, it doesn't help our own cause too much.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by boostd92

If you pull off an e-series n55 to n54 swap, keep us posted. I haven't seen it done yet.

Honestly, if someone would just come out with a high volume rotary style high pressure fuel pump (not a bandaid like the helix that just overspins the stock pump), I'd be 99% happy with my N55.

The hurdle from ~500whp (on E85) to 600whp is like $4,000 in fuel system parts, tuning etc, too much added complication.

Hell, when someone does a B58 swap, I'll be all-in on that. I love my E90 and don't want an F/G chassis car.

Have you heard of people having problems with the dorch or xdi hpfp options? Most of the n54 guys go port injection anyway, especially the high power builds.

[wheela]

But all that said, I agree stage 3 turbos and upgraded hpfp is a decent cost to get into high power territory.

[boostd92]

Originally Posted by wheela

Have you heard of people having problems with the dorch or xdi hpfp options? Most of the n54 guys go port injection anyway, especially the high power builds.

Dorch and xdi are not available for e-series N55's. We only have the overdrive (Helix) options for HPFPs, which have proven to be less than bulletproof.

PI is really the only somewhat reliable fuel source - and I'm not keen on having an additional injector controller running off a chinese hobbs (pressure) switch. I had one on a stroker 3SGTE (Toyota MR2) build years ago to switch on my meth and that stupid switch failed on the dragstrip when I was running 26psi and nearly cost me a motor.

[wheela]

Originally Posted by boostd92

Dorch and xdi are not available for e-series N55's. We only have the overdrive (Helix) options for HPFPs, which have proven to be less than bulletproof.

PI is really the only somewhat reliable fuel source - and I'm not keen on having an additional injector controller running off a chinese hobbs (pressure) switch. I had one on a stroker 3SGTE (Toyota MR2) build years ago to switch on my meth and that stupid switch failed on the dragstrip when I was running 26psi and nearly cost me a motor.

Dorch and Xdi are available for later (2013+) n55. Now that you mention it, I guess my e84 is probably one of the few e-chassis n55 cars made after 2013. But the older n55's have the n54 style pump. Yeah, those helix units seem to be capable of causing havoc, but have you looked into PFS POD? That works with n54 and the older n55 that came with the n54 style pump. It's like a helix, except it's (supposedly) much more reliable.

I here you on the additional controllers. I want to stick with DI for my car. Sorry to hear about your mr2 incident. I know a guy who blew up his evo when his meth injection failed on him during a pull.

[Jbam9]

I know this is an old and dead thread, but wouldn’t it be possible to just wire the orange/red power wires to the injectors instead of the coils? This would in theory cause the wotbox to cut fuel instead of spark, which is how the factory rev limiter works. Anybody ever try this? BMW AIR diagrams show the injectors get power from a similar orange wire from in the electronics box. Both injectors and coils run off 12 volts, so why would this not work? And furthermore, would it prevent the CEL/limp mode issue?

[Schmidty335i]

Originally Posted by Jbam9

I know this is an old and dead thread, but wouldn’t it be possible to just wire the orange/red power wires to the injectors instead of the coils? This would in theory cause the wotbox to cut fuel instead of spark, which is how the factory rev limiter works. Anybody ever try this? BMW AIR diagrams show the injectors get power from a similar orange wire from in the electronics box. Both injectors and coils run off 12 volts, so why would this not work? And furthermore, would it prevent the CEL/limp mode issue?

I would assume it would probably just throw a code for the injectors at that point, these DME's don't mess around. I never could get my 2 step to work properly so I took the WOTbox out. I could use it for NLS but that wasn't the primary purpose I wanted it for and just figured I was cluttering the engine bay more with extra wiring.

If you are interested in buying the WOTbox off me I still have it and all the wires are cut to the correct lengths for the N55 lol. But I wouldn't set my hopes high if I were you cause I would be willing to bet the DME would not be happy either way. Just PM me if you are still interested in one.

[Schmidty335i]

Originally Posted by wheela

All is not lost my friend, if you're willing to step away from stock frame hybrid turbos. Check out Big Boost, or also Speedtech. The latter has some new options about to come out for n55. Per realoem, our rods are the same as used in the s55 engine. Our heads have the same size and lift as n54 on the exhaust side, but our intake valves are larger and have more lift than n54. Granted tuning has come along more for n54, but that's mostly because they've been around longer.

I support all n55 development, as more options make it more appealing to tune. The more people tuning this platform, the more development there will be for it. It feeds itself, so we shouldn't down-sell this platform if we want things to improve for it. Hell, if we n55 owners rip on n55, it doesn't help our own cause too much.

Wheela! what's up man? I am like you I refuse to give up on this car haha and I know you are the same. Cant wait till we get our big boy turbos installed!

[wheela]

Originally Posted by Schmidty335i

Wheela! what's up man? I am like you I refuse to give up on this car haha and I know you are the same. Cant wait till we get our big boy turbos installed!

Hell yes, brother!! It's been a long time coming, I'm super excited!! Here's to high-power n55's

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Jbam9

I know this is an old and dead thread, but wouldn’t it be possible to just wire the orange/red power wires to the injectors instead of the coils? This would in theory cause the wotbox to cut fuel instead of spark, which is how the factory rev limiter works. Anybody ever try this? BMW AIR diagrams show the injectors get power from a similar orange wire from in the electronics box. Both injectors and coils run off 12 volts, so why would this not work? And furthermore, would it prevent the CEL/limp mode issue?

DME will be even more sensitive to seeing an injector not fire I think.

N2MB wants you to cut spark. I can't find any clear answers as to one over the other but some opinions swayed me toward sticking with spark cut. That excess fuel explodes in the exhaust for the anti-lag effect. IF you cut fuel then your car is just misfiring at a set rpm... and could potentially fire with inadequate AFR since spark is still there. blowby gasses/oil or EGR could ignite.

[Jbam9]

Originally Posted by Schmidty335i

If you are interested in buying the WOTbox off me I still have it and all the wires are cut to the correct lengths for the N55 lol.

Lol I wish I new this before I bought a new one, at least I can install it on any make/model tho

Thanks for the info guys, you are definitely right, the more I think about it the more cutting fuel sounds like a worse idea.

Did anyone read their codes when the car went into limp mode? What specific codes does it throw?

[Schmidty335i]

Originally Posted by Jbam9

Lol I wish I new this before I bought a new one, at least I can install it on any make/model tho

Thanks for the info guys, you are definitely right, the more I think about it the more cutting fuel sounds like a worse idea.

Did anyone read their codes when the car went into limp mode? What specific codes does it throw?

It won't put you into limp mode it will legit let you peg off the wotbox set limiter for a few seconds then the engine just dies. No limp mode, no check engine light or anything. Then if you scan the car for codes before turning it back on it shows the codes that were mentioned prior on this post. I can't remember them off the top of my head. then when you clear them your car just starts like normal again until you attempted to use the 2step then its rinse wash and repeat. Wish MHD could figure this out cause I have been wanting 2 step since I got the car about 10 years ago now lol.

Good luck and if you figure out something that works let us know!

[Hauteknits]

MHD semi-recently updated their N55e XDFs with a new table titled "MHD - codes list to deactivate", I just ordered my WOTBox but we'll see if 2F44 and 2F8B in that list will do something. I know there's reportedly still misfire login in the DME that shuts off the car but we'll see

[Jbam9]

Ended up installing it in the n52 for giggles and shits and it actually works flawlessly lol
Also made a shiftlight using n2mb’s instructions and 3D printed a custom enclosure for it

[Jbam9]

Originally Posted by Hauteknits

I just ordered my WOTBox but we'll see if 2F44 and 2F8B in that list will do something.

Good luck, pls keep us posted.

[rulermark]

Originally Posted by Hauteknits

MHD semi-recently updated their N55e XDFs with a new table titled "MHD - codes list to deactivate", I just ordered my WOTBox but we'll see if 2F44 and 2F8B in that list will do something. I know there's reportedly still misfire login in the DME that shuts off the car but we'll see

worked for not getting a CEL for rear o2. Interested to see how it goes for this

[Hauteknits]

Currently can't connect to the WOTBox, everything should be wired properly, but starting the car gives no spark so I'm not quite sure. Currently have an email to N2MB since i'm 90% sure its a serial issue and their serial specs are nowhere to be found. Anyone here have any ideas?

[Jbam9]

Originally Posted by Hauteknits

Currently can't connect to the WOTBox, everything should be wired properly, but starting the car gives no spark so I'm not quite sure. Currently have an email to N2MB since i'm 90% sure its a serial issue and their serial specs are nowhere to be found. Anyone here have any ideas?

have you verified the red wire is getting 12V when the ignition is on?

[Hauteknits]

Originally Posted by Jbam9

have you verified the red wire is getting 12V when the ignition is on?

I have verified that the voltage between RED and chassis ground is a solid 12.55V, Blue light is illuminated. N2MB just responded, so I'm going to try their steps and see if I can get it fixed. I also realized I provided nothing in terms of details so here's what I got so far:

With the WOTBox wired, the car will crank but not start. Using a Windows 11 laptop with version 4.8 of the software. This is a brand new box and hasn't been setup yet

Here is the information for the serial communication:

Adapter: Included HL340 USB->Serial
Using provided driver

Port Settings: 9600 Baud, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop bit, no flow control. FIFO Buffers enabled, set to 14.

Tried COM1, COM3, and COM10. No results

EDIT: Tried N2MB's steps so far, they said to press button on WOTBox and see if LED turns off. LED did not turn off so waiting to hear back on what's going on. Checked all of the signal wires and nothing reads over 2-5V so don't think anything could be fried

[Jbam9]

Originally Posted by Hauteknits

I have verified that the voltage between RED and chassis ground is a solid 12.55V, Blue light is illuminated. N2MB just responded, so I'm going to try their steps and see if I can get it fixed. I also realized I provided nothing in terms of details so here's what I got so far:

With the WOTBox wired, the car will crank but not start. Using a Windows 11 laptop with version 4.8 of the software. This is a brand new box and hasn't been setup yet

Here is the information for the serial communication:

Adapter: Included HL340 USB->Serial
Using provided driver

Port Settings: 9600 Baud, 8 data bits, no parity, 1 stop bit, no flow control. FIFO Buffers enabled, set to 14.

Tried COM1, COM3, and COM10. No results

EDIT: Tried N2MB's steps so far, they said to press button on WOTBox and see if LED turns off. LED did not turn off so waiting to hear back on what's going on. Checked all of the signal wires and nothing reads over 2-5V so don't think anything could be fried

My guess is the software version. Check out this guide and redownload the 3.9 software instead of 4.8. Also make sure your RPM source is MazdaSpeed3 or 6