[KhaosKid]

Hello everyone,

I wanted to post this relearn procedure I found recently on the 1 series forum for the GM 6L45 Transmission. I’ve owned this car for 7 years now and i’ve never seen this procedure before. I tried it after resetting my transmission and it seems to work better than the ZF procedure that i’ve always used in the past. The procedure is apparently from GM for all of their 6 speed transmissions. I hope this may help someone, as there is so little information out there about the GM transmission relearn procedure, and Many people as well as myself cannot find/afford a scan tool that has the service fast learn adapt procedure.

Cheers

P.S. I’ve never experienced the 2-3 upshift flare until recently when I reset adaptations after my most recent fluid change with top tec 1800 by liqui moly. I’m sure it isn’t the fluids fault as it carries the dexron VI approval. I believe its just wear and tear considering my transmission is now at 215,000 km.

EDIT: I notice the shift flare when I reset adaptations when my car is cold. If I get the engine to operating temps, then turn it off and reset adaptations, and then turn it on and immediately go do the drive cycle, the flare goes away after the first few shifts. This is just my personal findings on my car with MY transmission at 210,000 kms. I may purchase the bimmergeeks cable soon to flash my EGS as the poster below me said. Cheers.

Procedure:

[jnagel]

Hi KhaosKid,

I was the OP of that Sonnax procedure on the 1 series forum.
When I initially performed the procedure, I noticed an improvement but it was still nowhere near as good as prior to the adaptations reset.
I recently posted my experience in the BimmerGeeks forum and thankfully, a member mentioned that a flash of the EGS can fix the clutch timing issues prevalent after an adaptations reset.
Sure enough, car felt great after reset, and I’d hazard to say it feels about 99% as good as prior to the reset. I was going to flash again as I didn’t perform the Sonnax procedure after the flash (as was recommended) and I’m guessing this may sort out the last minor issues I’m having.
Let me know if you would like some assistance in resolving.

[KhaosKid]

Originally Posted by jnagel

Hi KhaosKid,

I was the OP of that Sonnax procedure on the 1 series forum.
When I initially performed the procedure, I noticed an improvement but it was still nowhere near as good as prior to the adaptations reset.
I recently posted my experience in the BimmerGeeks forum and thankfully, a member mentioned that a flash of the EGS can fix the clutch timing issues prevalent after an adaptations reset.
Sure enough, car felt great after reset, and I’d hazard to say it feels about 99% as good as prior to the reset. I was going to flash again as I didn’t perform the Sonnax procedure after the flash (as was recommended) and I’m guessing this may sort out the last minor issues I’m having.
Let me know if you would like some assistance in resolving.

Thank you so much for following up! I will definitely pm you or post here whenever I end up buying the bimmergeeks cable to (safely) flash my EGS with.

cheers.

[Skoidat69]

Originally Posted by KhaosKid

Thank you so much for following up! I will definitely pm you or post here whenever I end up buying the bimmergeeks cable to (safely) flash my EGS with.

cheers.

Look on FB marketplace as I saw someone selling on for $10-15 but couldn't find the link when I just went to look for it for you

[KhaosKid]

Just wanted to update this post. I found out my EGS firmware is already flashed with the latest ZB number from the dealer back in Nov 2011. 7614239. Same with my DME, CAS, and DSC. Which were all updated during the final warranty service in Dec 2013. (8608688, 9287534, and 6862873 respectively, in case anyones needs these numbers in the future. For a 2011 323i (Canadian model only, N52B25).

Also, I had my FRM flashed with the wrong ZB number for some reason. 9390489 instead of 9390488. When I flashed to 0488 (which is for FRM3 with LED BASIS on it aka halogen headlights), the bulb out warnings for my license plate LED's went away (they weren't even out to begin with lol). So, I guess having the wrong firmware, even if it appears to work fine at first, can cause Wierd issues like that. I flashed it back using expert mode in winkfp, because it wouldn't work in comfort mode.

All of this was with the bimmergeeks cable. I no longer trust my 2015 era 100$ cable. From one-stop-electronics. I flashed with my 4.3A CTek battery maintainer plugged in, after fully charging the battery and everything went fine. Wrote VO from CAS to FRM with NcsExpert in manipulation-mode. Then switched to expert mode and default coded by using SG Codieren, which programs the module according to the VO. Finally, I re-did all my coding using a manipulation-enabled profile. No more random bulb out errors for my license plate LEDs (stock) and interior lights (also stock).

[KhaosKid]

Originally Posted by jnagel

Hi KhaosKid,

I was the OP of that Sonnax procedure on the 1 series forum.
When I initially performed the procedure, I noticed an improvement but it was still nowhere near as good as prior to the adaptations reset.
I recently posted my experience in the BimmerGeeks forum and thankfully, a member mentioned that a flash of the EGS can fix the clutch timing issues prevalent after an adaptations reset.
Sure enough, car felt great after reset, and I’d hazard to say it feels about 99% as good as prior to the reset. I was going to flash again as I didn’t perform the Sonnax procedure after the flash (as was recommended) and I’m guessing this may sort out the last minor issues I’m having.
Let me know if you would like some assistance in resolving.

Question: did you flash with the same firmware that was on the EGS already (in other words, with the same ZB number in WinKFP)?

Thanks in advance.

[jnagel]

Originally Posted by KhaosKid

Question: did you flash with the same firmware that was on the EGS already (in other words, with the same ZB number in WinKFP)?

Thanks in advance.

Hey KhaosKid, yes - I did flash with same ZB that was on EGS already (7581955). This was same ZB from dealer flash in 2013, plus, I checked kmm_ATSH file to confirm it was correct for my spec (UD52;205;0703515-0906510) - my factory ISTEP is 0709521

These were the steps from the beginning:
1) transmission adaptations reset using tool32 - car not shifting well at all
2) perform Sonnax procedure - slight improvement in regular shifting but still not good
3) flash EGS - transmission definitely better from the get go - could tell transmission was starting to 'learn' adaptations. Still not as good as prior to reset
Since my most recent post here in mid-2021:
4) flash EGS and perform Sonnax procedure - expedited normal shifting behaviours. Other shifts etc still not as good as before

FINALLY:
5) Found TSB (Technical Service Bulletin from 2007 with the correct GM 6L45R adaptation procedures). This is a godsend for all those who have been looking for this for many years now. Note - unlike the ZF, these procedures are not a step-by-step process but more of a guide on what once can 'do' if/when a unfavourable shift behaviour appears. In addition, this is a US technical bulletin from April 2007, hence, doesn't have any E8x models listed because 1er hatches never went to the US and the E82/8 had not been released yet, however, this document applies to these chassis with the GM Trans as well.
There were lots of mistypes/misprints in the original TSB as well as not being clear on the exact steps for each adaptation 'test', hence, I have made my own document with more in-depth info on the steps for each procedure, to be read in conjunction with the original TSB. To be clear, this is best done STRAIGHT AFTER flashing the EGS, and, to give you some insight, I've done the Sonnax procedure, most of the adaptation procedures listed in the document, and some 5-10,000kms of mixed driving and the trans is still 99% back to where it was although some shifts are smoother than before which is great. However, I'd hazard to guess that if I went out and specifically went through all these procedures, the trans would be 100%

Links:
- Original TSB - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F1G...ew?usp=sharing

- My more detailed steps - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F4v...ew?usp=sharing

[KhaosKid]

[quote jnagel]FINALLY:
5) Found TSB (Technical Service Bulletin from 2007 with the correct GM 6L45R adaptation procedures). This is a godsend for all those who have been looking for this for many years now.[/quote]

Wow, i'm not sure what I was expecting from your reply, but it wasn't this absolute treasure trove of NEW information i have never seen before. And thats coming from someone who reads in his free time, so i have read what feels like tons of forum posts about this topic. Finding new information is really rare, especially because the 335's never got the GM 6L45 transmission, so that means a large chunk of the knowledgeable enthusiasts on this platform can't contribute to information about this transmission.

Thank you very much! I'm glad you still responded, even though it took me quite a while until I was ready to flash and could get back to you.

Anyways, I will update this thread with my findings/ my experiences after flashing my GM transmission with the same ZB number it has now (from its last service in 2013) and then followed by the adaptation procedure you kindly shared, once I have time at a random hour of the night so the roads are empty. Im hoping for any sort of improvement to my odd shifting behaviour, even if its just a slight one that would be great. Thank you once again for sharing this valuable info with all of us.

Edit: After doing the above, I believe the car shifts well. It's still a GM6 transmission, but no hanging or delayed shifts or anything anymore. My transmission has about 150,000 miles on it now, and the only problem I've noticed is when I am stopped and I depress (push) the brake a lot, I feel a little jolt and see the RPM go down about 100 rpm and bounce back up while it jolts. If I then release the brake until I am barely pressing it (but there is still enough pressure on the pedal for the rear brake lights to still be activated), it jolts again the same way. If I only barely press the brake when stopped, then it never jolts. The above happens with the car in drive. If the car is in DS, then this behavior never happens. Also, when the car engine/transmission is cold (first 5-10 minutes of driving) this jolt never happens either. It's only when everything is warm/ up to operating temperatures AND i'm in drive.


So I believe there is some sort of wear in my transmission causing this behavior. It isn't worth tracing the problem and fixing it for me until it gets a lot worse though. First time I changed my transmission fluid and filter was right before 100k miles, like maybe 96k miles.

If I could do it again, I would have changed it at 50k miles (i got the car at 50k miles), 75k miles, and 100k miles a fluid and filter change. (drain and fills not flushes).

If I got the car around 100k miles, I would have changed it 3 times, waiting around 1-2 weeks in between each change, and then changing the filter only after the final fluid change. Because the fluid was DARK BLACK after 96k miles. The Lifetime fluid nonsense has taken another victim LOL. pls change your transmission fluid y'all. And don't fall for that BS even though I KNOW that you REALLY want to trust BMW and other auto-makers claims about the fluid life.

I will update this thread when my transmission finally blows or anything changes drastically.