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      03-26-2018, 11:39 AM   #1
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Low Idle 2006 330i E90

Hey there guys,

Thought I could pick some brains on here, on my E90 I've owned it since the end of December and from the beginning it has been idling at about 550RPMs, this makes it slightly rough with a slight rumble/vibration.

I will be replacing the coils and plugs, I've cleaned the MAF and run injector cleaner through the fuel system. If I may ask you guys what you think about the issue?

2006 E90 330i MT 102,000mi
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      03-26-2018, 12:03 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by toryjlarsen View Post
Hey there guys,

Thought I could pick some brains on here, on my E90 I've owned it since the end of December and from the beginning it has been idling at about 550RPMs, this makes it slightly rough with a slight rumble/vibration.

I will be replacing the coils and plugs, I've cleaned the MAF and run injector cleaner through the fuel system. If I may ask you guys what you think about the issue?

2006 E90 330i MT 102,000mi
Most likely a coil going bad. If you have never replaced coils or plugs this is a good start.
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      03-26-2018, 12:16 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
Most likely a coil going bad. If you have never replaced coils or plugs this is a good start.
Thank you, yeah Im going to be shopping around, I think I can get a good deal on the set from SSF through the company I work for.

Also I was reading that it might be good to check the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor?
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      03-26-2018, 12:23 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by toryjlarsen View Post
Thank you, yeah Im going to be shopping around, I think I can get a good deal on the set from SSF through the company I work for.

Also I was reading that it might be good to check the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor?
Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, only if the connector has oil in it. You can check by removing the plastic cover, remove harness connector from sensor and look for oil. If it looks dry, leave it alone.
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      03-26-2018, 12:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor, only if the connector has oil in it. You can check by removing the plastic cover, remove harness connector from sensor and look for oil. If it looks dry, leave it alone.
Thank you for the tip sir!
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      03-26-2018, 12:29 PM   #6
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Thank you for the tip sir!
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      03-26-2018, 01:13 PM   #7
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If it's pretty subtle then it could be motor mount too. Honestly, I think "they all do that" might be the right answer to a certain degree. Mine has a light vibration as well, I've done the works on the manifold and VVT and that didn't help. A coil would be a "whoa I should pull over" kinda vibration, along with a code. IMO of course.
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      03-26-2018, 01:49 PM   #8
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If it's pretty subtle then it could be motor mount too. Honestly, I think "they all do that" might be the right answer to a certain degree. Mine has a light vibration as well, I've done the works on the manifold and VVT and that didn't help. A coil would be a "whoa I should pull over" kinda vibration, along with a code. IMO of course.
I totally understand what you mean, but also why would I be idling so low at 550RPMs?
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      03-26-2018, 02:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toryjlarsen View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebraska330xi View Post
If it's pretty subtle then it could be motor mount too. Honestly, I think "they all do that" might be the right answer to a certain degree. Mine has a light vibration as well, I've done the works on the manifold and VVT and that didn't help. A coil would be a "whoa I should pull over" kinda vibration, along with a code. IMO of course.
I totally understand what you mean, but also why would I be idling so low at 550RPMs?
Is it always at that level? I know a common problem, and one I had was a "dip" in throttle while decelerating, which was due to a bad oil separator hose (325-330 specific) for me and vacuum leak. Still happens occasionally but not as dramatically. I think around 650 is the common idle once warmed up but it could be a host of fun stuff.

Any codes? Other poster had good recommendation on ES sensor check too, but you should get a code there. Anything from Vanos, VVT, DISA, O2 sensors, ignition coils/plugs(are they original), or some vacuum leak could cause idle related issues which are painfully common, in my experience all of the above would produce a fault code however.
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      03-26-2018, 02:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebraska330xi View Post
Is it always at that level? I know a common problem, and one I had was a "dip" in throttle while decelerating, which was due to a bad oil separator hose (325-330 specific) for me and vacuum leak. Still happens occasionally but not as dramatically. I think around 650 is the common idle once warmed up but it could be a host of fun stuff.

Any codes? Other poster had good recommendation on ES sensor check too, but you should get a code there. Anything from Vanos, VVT, DISA, O2 sensors, ignition coils/plugs(are they original), or some vacuum leak could cause idle related issues which are painfully common, in my experience all of the above would produce a fault code however.
Yeah the problem is I have no codes coming up, the idle always sits at 550RPMs after warming up. I means there is no intense shaking or fluctuations in the idle, I just know that 500 is pretty low and it does create a slight rumble/vibration.
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      03-27-2018, 12:03 AM   #11
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idle should be at least 650rpm

I agree with the suggestion for the eccentric sensor. Also, might be worth cleaning the VANOS solenoids.
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      03-27-2018, 10:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
idle should be at least 650rpm

I agree with the suggestion for the eccentric sensor. Also, might be worth cleaning the VANOS solenoids.
Thank you for the tip, also I had forgot to mention that I did clean the VANOS, a while back I had gotten SES light for the VANOS. So I cleaned them properly, cleared the code and nothing has come back ever since.
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      03-27-2018, 04:11 PM   #13
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Here's an idea guys, I went over to autozone to get my battery checked because it seems to drain very quickly with just electrical systems on, within a few minute the low battery warning light comes on even without the stereo on. The guy at autozone check it and its about 30-40% charged.... Can this cause the low idle problem?
I was reading on a couple other posts of this being the culprit for some e90 guys.
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      03-27-2018, 04:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by toryjlarsen View Post
Here's an idea guys, I went over to autozone to get my battery checked because it seems to drain very quickly with just electrical systems on, within a few minute the low battery warning light comes on even without the stereo on. The guy at autozone check it and its about 30-40% charged.... Can this cause the low idle problem?
I was reading on a couple other posts of this being the culprit for some e90 guys.
There you go.. yes low battery will cause low idle. These cars react very particularly when low battery. Replace it and you will be good to go...
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      03-27-2018, 04:53 PM   #15
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There you go.. yes low battery will cause low idle. These cars react very particularly when low battery. Replace it and you will be good to go...
Thank you for confirming that possibility with me
Ill get it replaced and post the result!
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      03-28-2018, 11:27 PM   #16
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Replaced the battery today.... didn’t resolve the low idle ��

Guess its on to coils, plugs, VANOS, ES position sensor... or whatever the hell else could be causing it.

Last edited by toryjlarsen; 03-29-2018 at 10:25 AM..
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      03-29-2018, 10:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Replaced the battery today.... didn’t resolve the low idle ��
Not surprisingly, since alternator provides the power while engine is running not your battery.

You have a 2006 E90, so try this: shut off your engine, wiggle your MAF sensor connector and then press it in good so that it is seated well. Start engine, see if it made it better.

If it did read the rest in this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1304563
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      03-30-2018, 10:08 AM   #18
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Not surprisingly, since alternator provides the power while engine is running not your battery.

You have a 2006 E90, so try this: shut off your engine, wiggle your MAF sensor connector and then press it in good so that it is seated well. Start engine, see if it made it better.

If it did read the rest in this thread:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1304563
Thanks for the tip man, unfortunately that didnt work... last week I had taken out the MAF and cleaned it pretty well with MAF cleaner and it didnt change anything.
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      03-30-2018, 01:15 PM   #19
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It maybe worth if you reread my post. It is likely the connection not the Maf itself.
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      04-02-2018, 06:31 AM   #20
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2A2E/2A2F codes (whether you are seeing a 'service engine soon' light or not) can sometimes be caused by a leak in the CCV hoses. With the car's age/mileage, your CCV hoses could likely be causing the symptoms.
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      04-02-2018, 10:15 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by lab_rat View Post
2A2E/2A2F codes (whether you are seeing a 'service engine soon' light or not) can sometimes be caused by a leak in the CCV hoses. With the car's age/mileage, your CCV hoses could likely be causing the symptoms.
Hey thank you, I am gonna take a look into that!
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      04-05-2018, 03:43 AM   #22
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have you looked into re-learning vanos on the car ?? i had a similar issue , i cleaned the vanos solenoids - no change ; replaced the solenoids and seals - improvement ; re-learn vanos (possible with inpa DIY ) - issue resolved.
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