[Dad2142Dad]

2009 e93 N54 Cabrio, 97K miles. Recently purchased and going through it to correct all of the little problems.

Changed the PCV do to rough idle, acceleration, low throttle position and misfiring. Used VTT-N54-PCV from ECS.

Started it and squealing started soon after. Seems to be coming from flywheel area. Goes away after opening oil fill cap, slightly hard to open.

Have searched the great site of knowledge and have seen this corrected by changing the PCV, changing oil, tightening the down pipes etc.

So is it new PCV is bad, or is one of the many suggestions?

It does have new vacuum hoses, BVO. Also has VRSF 3″ Cast Stainless Steel Downpipes.

Any help would be appreciated

[BSM n54iS]

As a general rule I never use VTT products, but just in case, can you link the exact product you purchased just to make sure

[Dad2142Dad]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vargas-t...t-n54-pcv~vtt/

[nsjames]

did you smoke test the system before you assumed it was the PCV valve?

cause it sounds like you have a gasket leak, or a cracked valve cover.

[Dad2142Dad]

Did not,am going to get one or make something. Did change the oil this morning, squealing came back after engine warmed up. Took it for a drive, no smoke, squealing goes away when engine is loaded. Comes back when engine unloads.

So will get the smoke test done

[nsjames]

paint can smoke machine.

google it.
you can make one for less than $50. it's very handy.
one of those things you don't use often, but when you need it there are few easy substitutes.

[Dad2142Dad]

Well the epoxy didn’t set enough and the soldering iron is leaking through the handle. So plan B: https://blog.protuningfreaks.com/201...sting-diy/amp/

The leak is coming from the inlet to turbo bank #2. Big enough to bleed down quickly. The connection can be seen moving when the upper end is moved around.

So looks like taking out both down pipes is the only to get to that connection. I’ll start that shortly.

[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by Dad2142Dad

Well the epoxy didn’t set enough and the soldering iron is leaking through the handle. So plan B: https://blog.protuningfreaks.com/201...sting-diy/amp/

The leak is coming from the inlet to turbo bank #2. Big enough to bleed down quickly. The connection can be seen moving when the upper end is moved around.

So looks like taking out both down pipes is the only to get to that connection. I’ll start that shortly.

You may as well buy upgraded inlets and get them in there if you're going down that route

[Dad2142Dad]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

You may as well buy upgraded inlets and get them in there if you're going down that route

Any recommendations on what brand?

[BSM n54iS]

I'm gonna go with RB next spring, many others will say VRSF. But only go about if you need to replace the stock ones for some reason... don't go about it just cuz I say so, maybe you just need to pop something back on idk

[Dad2142Dad]

Well the end on the charge hose had a hose clamp on it that was doing nothing to hold it on. Looks like it was cracked and epoxied, hole in the bottom of flange.

Is supposed to have a clip on it?

Regardless, even if I had a clip it would still leak. So going to cut off the flange, there is a raised joint about a 1/4” from where the end will be. Good spot for a clamp, and clamp at the turbo inlet for now.

Happy to see no oil in either turbo exhaust, none in the inlet for bank 2.