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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Koni Yellow settings



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      09-06-2011, 03:27 PM   #1
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Koni Yellow settings

So i was reading up on them and most people were saying 1.5 turns in the front and 1 turn in the rear was best...

Anyone disagree?
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      09-06-2011, 04:53 PM   #2
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it's all preference.. but generally, that is a good place to start. I'm running 1.5 turns in the rear, fwiw.
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      09-06-2011, 05:40 PM   #3
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Now is the more turns the harder or softer?

I like the sporty feel and would 1.5 front 1.0 rear be stiff/good cornering?
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      09-06-2011, 11:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milly View Post
Now is the more turns the harder or softer?

I like the sporty feel and would 1.5 front 1.0 rear be stiff/good cornering?
Depends if you start from full soft or full stiff rebound. Start from full soft; that's probably what most people are talking about. 1 turn=360d. FWIW, I've got the front set to 1.25 turns from soft and the rear 1.25 turns from soft and am using oe zsp springs. The front struts have approx. 2.5 tuns and the rear shocks have 2 turns.

Depends; it's personal preference. How quick/stiff do you want your rebound to be? My settings are plenty stiff/quick for me. Just don't set them to full soft or full stiff. The front struts are easy to adjust; the rear shocks not so much. 1.25turns in the front and 1 turn in the rear are 50%.
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      09-06-2011, 11:27 PM   #5
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Actually you should start from full stiff..read up here what the HACK posted..hes a driving instructor..so he knows his stuff:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=581312

Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
1. Get car corner balanced and aligned. Max out camber up front, or as much as you're comfortable with. 2.5-3.0 degree will give you a decent compromise if you drive the car on the street too, as much as 3.5 will give you a good baseline if it's primarily driven on the track. Max out camber in the rear (probably around 2 degrees). If the car's driven on the street, about 1/16" toe-in front, 1/16" toe-in rear. If the car's primarily driven on the track, 1/16" toe-out front, 1/16" toe-in rear.

2. Start from the stiffest setting available for compression and rebound, then dial back as necessary for best grip. There isn't going to be a perfect setting for every track and every situation, you'll find that once you have a good baseline you'll be moving the rebound up or down a little from track to track, and compression based on how rough the track surface is. On the West coast, Buttonwillow will definitely require a softer rebound than say, Laguna Seca.

3. RacingBrake front and rear rotors with a good track compound, like Hawk DTC-60 or better, or Cobalt XR-3 or better. Don't mix track compound with street compound.

After that, it's all about taking tire pressure and temperature readings and adjusting pressure accordingly, and adapting your driving to the natural "rate" of the car based on the above baseline rather than continue to play with "setting."

This thread will be better served if you guys include settings for specific tracks. But even then, with diverging skills and styles of driving, there's little you can really gain from knowing what someone else's setting is except to set a baseline for yourself to experiment from.
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      09-07-2011, 12:03 AM   #6
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OK ; I didn't realize we were talking about a track car You can't adjust the compression dampening on the Koni sports and it doesn't really matter if you start adjusting rebound from full soft or firm. I think when 'most' people talk about where they set the rebound they mean from full soft but maybe I'm wrong. More than one tech has told me not to set them at full soft or full firm, so I thought I'd just pass that along..
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      09-07-2011, 12:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
OK ; I didn't realize we were talking about a track car You can't adjust the compression dampening on the Koni sports and it doesn't really matter if you start adjusting rebound from full soft or firm. I think when 'most' people talk about where they set the rebound they mean from full soft but maybe I'm wrong. More than one tech has told me not to set them at full soft or full firm, so I thought I'd just pass that along..
The theory is the same for track or street ..obviously the street you will opt for more compliant settings..I realize the Konis do not have compression only rebound..I just use this thread as a guide..its very informative

And yes you are correct you should never set to full soft or hard..if you find your at the setting you want at full soft or hard then you should consider re-valving the damper
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      09-07-2011, 11:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-y View Post
it's all preference.. but generally, that is a good place to start. I'm running 1.5 turns in the rear, fwiw.
Where'd you set the front Mike? Are you using rft's?
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      09-07-2011, 11:45 AM   #9
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I'm 50/50 right now.....I wish I would have set my rears to 75% (50/75 daily driving and 75/75 track)
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      09-07-2011, 12:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc 22349a View Post
Where'd you set the front Mike? Are you using rft's?
both front and rear are 1.5 turns from full soft, which is about 1/2 turn from full stiff. I had the fronts at 1 turn, but there was a bit too much bounce coming off bumps, so at 1.5 turns, it feels more stable. Keep in mind, my 325i is a couple/few hundred pounds lighter than a 335i, so a 335i would probably need a bit less adjustment to feel the same as my car.

I was on RFT's for a couple of months when I got these, but now I'm on non-RFT's with 18" wheels.

Also, I don't think the koni range of adjustment is linear. I think the 2nd half of adjustment toward full stiff does a lot more than the 1st half does. Not 100% sure on this, but maybe Harold would know.
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      09-07-2011, 02:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndicategt View Post
I'm 50/50 right now.....I wish I would have set my rears to 75% (50/75 daily driving and 75/75 track)
As previously stated, it's personal preference. My front struts are at 50%=1.25 turns and the rear shocks are at ~60-65%=1.25 turns from soft. I wish I'd have set the rears at 50%. I see you're running H&R springs; maybe they require more rebound dampening?
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      09-07-2011, 02:44 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the answers, I'd hate to have to bring it back because I didn't like it..
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      09-07-2011, 11:28 PM   #13
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1.5 in front and 1 turn from full soft in rear. I like it, I daily my car.
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      09-08-2011, 05:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzepeda View Post
1.5 in front and 1 turn from full soft in rear. I like it, I daily my car.
Thanks man! Im gonna try this setting from the get go hopefully I like it!
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      11-02-2011, 01:40 AM   #15
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sorry to bring this old thread up, currently i have 40/50 from soft, rear seems a bit too bouncy. it is the HPA coilover setup with 336/616 swift springs. does anyone know if i should stiffen up the rear to ~65-75% for a stiffer but NOT bouncy ride?
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      11-02-2011, 02:39 AM   #16
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full stiff rear, almost full stiff front
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      11-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTerryliu View Post
full stiff rear, almost full stiff front
I concur.. I'm running stock zsp and am a half turn from full stiff in the rear. with 600 lbs rear springs, I'd think you'd need to be nearly full stiff to keep from bouncing too much.

Though the "new" koni yellows with the adjusters on top are said to have stiffer valving, so it may be a bit different if you have those.
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      11-02-2011, 03:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-y View Post
I concur.. I'm running stock zsp and am a half turn from full stiff in the rear. with 600 lbs rear springs, I'd think you'd need to be nearly full stiff to keep from bouncing too much.

Though the "new" koni yellows with the adjusters on top are said to have stiffer valving, so it may be a bit different if you have those.
cool! mine is the "older" version of the HPA Koni SA system, so im guess i'll need 75% at least in the rear to compensate the 600lbs springs. thanks for the info!
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      11-03-2011, 12:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawwailok View Post
cool! mine is the "older" version of the HPA Koni SA system, so im guess i'll need 75% at least in the rear to compensate the 600lbs springs. thanks for the info!
full stiff!!!! to my knowledge, the maximum spring rate the koni yellow rear shock can handle is 600. so i honestly suggest full stiff.
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      11-03-2011, 01:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTerryliu View Post
full stiff!!!! to my knowledge, the maximum spring rate the koni yellow rear shock can handle is 600. so i honestly suggest full stiff.
oh wow! i didn't know that! so which means if the system is matched with some race springs ie: 700-800 lbs rate, they need to be custom-valve koni?
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      11-03-2011, 08:22 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTerryliu View Post
full stiff!!!! to my knowledge, the maximum spring rate the koni yellow rear shock can handle is 600. so i honestly suggest full stiff.
The rear damper does not care about spring rate directly. It is the suspension frequency the damper is looking at. Going from 550 to 800 lb/in spring is not a huge change in suspension frequency. You are more likely to change the front damper valving. I think a few vendor or such don’t have a clue when they say the rear damper need to be reveled based on spring rate….best to let these folk lore tales die and get the real facts.

As for damper settings, most people are running far too much rear rebound dampening and no near enough front rebound dampening. One needs to get front and rear pitching under control or ride quality will be unacceptable no matter what spring rate one runs. I would start at 25% near soft on the rear damper and then adjust just the front damper until pitch control is good. Scale the setting up front and rear until the desired feel is achieved.
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      11-03-2011, 11:44 AM   #22
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I have my front set at full stiff and my rear at one turn from soft. I have the standard konis up front, but the white external adjustable rear's that have the extra rebound.
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