[DirtyDieselDog]

I'm starting some needed work tonight on the 2011 335D w/104K. any advice, order of things, things to do while I'm at it etc. etc. would be appreciated...

Harmonic balancer failed so that has to be done
I've have EGR race pipe, so I figured id put that on now too.
and CBU needs cleaned, so Ill be doing that

while this is what's needed I figured while I'm at it..
swirl flaps
thermostat / coolant
belts
glow plugs and relay
fuel filter

concerns:

EGR - will it or will it not put me in limp mode? car isn't tuned and wont be tuned yet
do I connect the 2 coolant hoses or cap them off?

CBU - do I need to remove the valve cover or no? I bought the blast kit from ECS that was from Bav motorsports previously. I've seen the valve cover both ways, Id prefer not as it looks like shit ton more crap to remove, but if it has to be done... But I don't wanna hurt the cover either. Im not even sure where the adapter fits, above or below the valve cover....

Glow Plugs - can the removed cold? car isn't really in running order now, but i don't wanna break one. I was gonna soak them or heat them with a torch if space allows with out melting something


Anything else I should consider as preventative maintenance?

I figured HB and belts are all in the same area

everything else seems to be down the same rabbit hole making for optimal time to do them

Fuel filter is its own thing, but needs done and seems like the easiest of the bunch barring prime issues.... Ill plan to jumper the pump for 15 seconds or so under the pass side rear seat.

appreciate any insight. I've read a shit ton here and there and everywhere, but the questions above seem to be most murky or debated....

[lnxguy]

Leave the EGR until you get a tune, prefill the fuel filter before install, no need to prime a thing. If the glowplugs and module are good, leave them. Why remove perfectly good parts? The module swap on a 335d is maybe 25 mins, simple stuff.

[jacbo]

have you had water pump replaced? if you're replacing tstat and coolant then no brainer to do it

[DirtyDieselDog]

Ill look at the water pump. prob a good idea.

I also am replacing the vacuum lines. I forgot I bought some

[335dlci]

As a professional... remove the VC for really 4 reasons. 1. You can damage the VC. 2. It needs a new VCG now. 3. You can't tell 100% if the valve is fully shut. 4. You can't full clean the VC of the cbu properly.... "It's more shit..." yes but you can cause an engine failure if not done right..

[DirtyDieselDog]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

As a professional... remove the VC for really 4 reasons. 1. You can damage the VC. 2. It needs a new VCG now. 3. You can't tell 100% if the valve is fully shut. 4. You can't full clean the VC of the cbu properly.... "It's more shit..." yes but you can cause an engine failure if not done right..

Thanks! After more research yesterday, I kinda concluded this was the best approach and this just confirms that. I was hoping to get away from that, but better safe than sorry. if its anything like the car had been thus, far it wont be bad to remove. Ive been pleasantly surprised so far at how, dare I say, easy . convenient all the work has been on it removing stuff etc. etc. Not nearly as bad as I was expecting!

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by DirtyDieselDog

Thanks! After more research yesterday, I kinda concluded this was the best approach and this just confirms that. I was hoping to get away from that, but better safe than sorry. if its anything like the car had been thus, far it wont be bad to remove. Ive been pleasantly surprised so far at how, dare I say, easy . convenient all the work has been on it removing stuff etc. etc. Not nearly as bad as I was expecting!

If you're in socal. I can do it for you

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by DirtyDieselDog

Ill look at the water pump. prob a good idea.

I also am replacing the vacuum lines. I forgot I bought some

I have been a 335d owner since Sep 2011. I have been on this forum since Nov 2011 and on the NABDOG FB page for about 6-7 years( pure estimate there).

I come to my point. I have read of only 2 M57 water pump failures in all this time on both forums. I would sit on current WP if only at 104k miles. I'm not a parts cannon guy unless it's a common thing to go out. The tstat, absolutely change it.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I have been a 335d owner since Sep 2011. I have been on this forum since Nov 2011 and on the NABDOG FB page for about 6-7 years( pure estimate there).

I come to my point. I have read of only 2 M57 water pump failures in all this time on both forums. I would sit on current WP if only at 104k miles. I'm not a parts cannon guy unless it's a common thing to go out. The tstat, absolutely change it.

I have seen a couple.

[kpm]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

I have been a 335d owner since Sep 2011. I have been on this forum since Nov 2011 and on the NABDOG FB page for about 6-7 years( pure estimate there).

I come to my point. I have read of only 2 M57 water pump failures in all this time on both forums. I would sit on current WP if only at 104k miles. I'm not a parts cannon guy unless it's a common thing to go out. The tstat, absolutely change it.

My 2009 M57 water pump failed at 187,000 kms(116.000 miles)

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by kpm

My 2009 M57 water pump failed at 187,000 kms(116.000 miles)

Mines at 250,000kms and still going strong.. It's really not a maintenance item, more of a 'if you're in there item'.

[DirtyDieselDog]

I am pretty much fully disassembled. all that is left is the GP module and fuel filter. I my do a write up of all this when done for parts I cant find good info on. my list:

Must do:
CBU
harmonic Balancer
alt pulley

Needs to do:
EGR delete and pin up old motor
Manifold gaskets
swirl delete
fuel filter
valve cover gasket
seals in the intercooler boots
turbo boot seal
vacuum lines

preventive maintenance while its tore down:
water pump
T-stat
belts
idler pulleys
glow plugs
GP module
catch can

you never know who had your car and what happened but you can start to see things once you take it apart.

I have honestly had my self psyched out for a while on doing this. ive had 3 VW's and didnt enjoy German cars. I work on alot of diesels (I own 8) but first time really digging into the 335d. I must say, i ahve been pleasantly suprised. It seems much more thought out and convenient than the VW's. My boss agrees. he is European / Ukrainian and drives audis and bimmers and said he noticed same things... this may be the easiest, dare I say (knock on wood) I have ever had in tearing down the top of an engine. no issues with clearance or anything. no BS to deal with. nothing frustrating thus far (with exception fo dropping a bottom side manifold ring gasket)

I was really dreading to remove the valve cover. debating trying to clean in place. watching a few vids tho and reading about the valve cover gasket I decided to bite the bullet. it wasnt bad at all. i def dont wanna do it next year because i decided not to tho and then have a failed gasket. not hard to take aprt, but didnt wanna do it twice. i removed nothing on the turbo either and had no clearance issues. just removed the oil cap and that goofy PCV line a bit and came right off.

if you are reading to see what you are getting yourself into, it really isnt bad. looks much worse than it was. start to this point.

Like I said I may do an order or something i woirked in if it helps. things i did or noticed or saw i will say this:
corrosion X-HD - pentrating spray. this stuff is my go to if you have time to wait, like atleast a few hours or a day preferably (acetone/ATF 50/50 ix if you need now I like, but not aroudn the engine cylinders) I sprayed the GP's and the next day no effort to break them free. sprayed the injectors. next day popped right out. (with puller of course, just no issues)

If you ever cant get a nut/bolt started (esp flare) turn it backward like you are loosening it. you can feel it seat on the threads then tighten with out fear of cross threading.

so as far as finding out about its former life.... Ive owned the car for 4 years this Dec 17th. bought with 58k miles. now has 104k. I know it was CBU cleaned at 40k. I have found 5 missing bolts. 2 broken clips. and walnut shells under the rain cowl. clips and bolts were mostly by the vacuum lines reservoir. one was the E-tork on back of engine which made my life a bit easier. 2 were right in plain sight i didnt know what went there before. just shitty of a "pro" makes you wonder..... my poor baby

I will attach some pictures.
I found a oil jug foil cover inside the head. idk how long its been there. stuck to side of the head. right under the fill port. im 99.9% sure it wasn't me though. this is a paranoia of mine losing one in the head. i always remove them...

now my questions:
my injectors are filthy in CBU. see pic. except #2 and 3 isn't bad. but the rest are CBU all the up the entire injector. tips are black. can I clean the tips? soak them in anything? ultrasonic clean?

2 of the copper (i think) gaskets came off the injector and stayed on the head. I didn't wont spray anything in the hole yet or risk scratch the sealing face. Im sure im not the first. whats the best approach to this?

pictures to come in next post...

[DirtyDieselDog]

pictures of the parts on the back of my 68 firebird...
foil cap
walnut shells left over
3 pix of my injectors, 1 clean and 2 dirty

[DirtyDieselDog]

I saw this video for cleaning the 335d Injectors:

I've read though that our injectors can be taken apart like that, that it will screw them up? I have the ultrasonic cleaner though and could do this. But I don't wanna risk screwing them up if you can just do that as easy as shown and them work right when reassembled.

My other option is to send here:
https://injector-rehab.com/?gclid=Cj...8aApbjEALw_wcB

they say the specialize in BMW injectors.

thoughts on these? I'm worried about how dirty they are and think i definitely wanna clean them at the least.

[jacbo]

Nice job. I agree, compared to other german cars, these are pretty easy to work on. Especially the diesel engines. regarding the stuck copper seals, i have had luck with using long wood screw. The copper seal is pretty soft so the screw will deform it and give you a good hold, then gently lever out the screw.

I'm sure there are other ways but this worked well and did not damage the sealing surface

[335dlci]

Tap works perfect.

[lnxguy]

Don't touch the injectors.. Clean the bodies off, get new sealing washers/o-rings and re-install.

[DirtyDieselDog]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Don't touch the injectors.. Clean the bodies off, get new sealing washers/o-rings and re-install.

Care to elaborate a bit? Not even a sonication? Can I clean the tips anyhow?

Thanks!

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by DirtyDieselDog

Care to elaborate a bit? Not even a sonication? Can I clean the tips anyhow?

Thanks!

Especially don't touch the tips. Spray brake clean down body and let that clean the tips as it runs down. Don't spray tips directly.

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by DirtyDieselDog

Care to elaborate a bit? Not even a sonication? Can I clean the tips anyhow?

Thanks!

Sure... Clean the injector body, leave everything else alone. There's no need to do anything but wipe down the body, new orings and re-install.

[DirtyDieselDog]

All the work is finished. I attached a "report" of sorts. Not necessarily a DIY but maybe a good resource to help anyone with what to expect or how to go about the things. cost etc

Feel free to contact me if anyone wants or needs. be happy to talk.

Like I said, I was pleasantly surprised with how logical and thought out the breakdown of the car was. I don't really think any part was a struggle. The hardest part of the whole thing was the GP module I think.

The foxwell NT510 worked great with priming the fuel. pump. during the 2nd portion of the prime with the engine at 2000 RPM's for 10 minutes, i had the cap off the coolant tank and was able to top it off and I think it completed the purge etc. Took about 30 seconds to start of cranking and I was honestly getting worried. esp when it started trying to start, but didn't. since it did though, starts right up like it should. I had to update and register my scanner before I could code the injectors. It took about 15 minutes to code them once done updating. the 1st time it only took 2 of the injectors codes and said the others failed. I just hit retry or whatever it was called to try again and it worked fine the 2nd time.

Checked for leaks. buttoned the covers back up and so far so good.

The CBU is like nothing i have ever seen in the way it is hard to clean. oils and dirt etc wash off with walnut scrub or dish soap, but that stuff was pretty much impervious to everything. it was just scrubbing and scrubbing with rags to try and clean your hands arms legs whatever.

I have some pictures thru out the process, not a DIY catalog though, I will post them later. I did opt to turn the engine over by hand when walnut blasting though since I had the belts off for the Harmonic balancer change.

I found for blasting:
extra set of hands is very helpful.
extra wet dry vac was helpful.
I actually ended up with 3 and the extra hands to help start/stop and shuffle them was great
I made 4 additional wands. changing them was a PITA. I bought some brake line form autozone and "borrowed" some compression fittings from work. I was nice thou to have different bends etc for the different ports.

(having trouble with my file uploading my file is too big so Ill have to figure that out.....)

[mifesto]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Especially don't touch the tips. Spray brake clean down body and let that clean the tips as it runs down. Don't spray tips directly.

Are you concerned with wiping or sonic cleaning pushing carbon further into fine injector hole making it worse?