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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Willing to pay for some DSP schooling
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| 06-22-2015, 11:59 AM | #3 |
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.....crossovers.....in very basic terms:
Highpass means that all the frequencies higher than the crossover settings pass on through to the amp. Lowpass means that all the frequencies lower than the crossover setting pass on through to the amp. That alone should shed some light on where you went wrong with your settings. Last edited by jeffb335; 06-22-2015 at 12:16 PM.. |
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| 06-22-2015, 12:04 PM | #4 |
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Second Lieutenant
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The "Bypass" function means no filtering so the speaker is just rolling off naturally. The tweets are probably OK as long as you aren't playing anything with major ultrasonic content. I would try the bass without bypassing the high pass set at the lower freq. and steepest curve possible and see how it sounds compared to having the bypass on.
Probably a little too much overlap with the mid at both ends, but that's way closer than where you started. I don't know anything about these drivers so someone else can chime in maybe. If I had to guess you will probably want a few db cut of the upper end of the bass to even out with the sub bass extension and possibly will need to boost the channels a bit after. |
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| 06-22-2015, 12:22 PM | #6 |
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So to combine what I said and what ajaye said above....and to hopefully explain this in a way that will help you understand what you are doing here....
Tweeters: There is little reason to low pass a tweeter.....so you bypass that, set the highpass at whatever freqency your speakers manufactuer recommends (typically around 3,000hz with most speakers.... Midbass/bass: For the bass/midbass speakers.....not sure about with the jehnert door boards but I have the jehnert underseats and I they play 170hz down to about 55hz where the sub takes over. Since you are not running a sub you can probably run them down to 30hz assuming your listening habits are sane, or even just bypass the highpass crossover here and let them go all the way down. Without a ton of power on the speakers they will be fine. SO in this scenario you would set your lowpass crossover to 170hz and your highpass crossover to 30hz (or bypass). Midrange: The mid range will fill the gap in between so it will have a low and highpass crossover.....the lowpass will be around the same value as the high pass for the tweeter.....so about 3000hz. The lowpass for the midrange will be where the midbass speakers to take over....in this case 170hz. For now for the sake of simplicity just set all the crossover slopes to 18db. The slope refers to how quickly the frequencies are attenuated above or below the crossover point. This is a fine adjustment that you may play with later when you are working on your EQ. Now realize that what we are doing here is giving each set of speakers its own set of frequencies to play, they dont overlap, where one ends drops off, the other picks up....at the crossover point....where one speaker "crosses over" to the next...... when combined they play the full spectrum. Understand that the above advice is just a general starting point, I dont have the same setup as you so you may modify the above as needed and of course recommended by jehnert, your dealer, or anyone else running similar equipment. BUT the above settings should at least get you in the ballpark and avoid damaging anything. Assuming your install is otherwise good and all your speakers are correctly in phase and time aligned, it should sound pretty decent and allow you to play with the EQ to get things tonally where you want them to be. Last edited by jeffb335; 06-22-2015 at 02:51 PM.. |
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| 06-22-2015, 01:01 PM | #9 |
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Mark, as said in the email, can you please use the file that I sent you and return the dip switches to how they were ? We can move forward from there, but as it is now, the sound would be quite bad and in some ranges nearly null - also stated in the email.
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| 06-22-2015, 01:04 PM | #10 |
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well.... you could listen to us yahoos.....or you could listen to 6spdcoupe who does this for a living (and I suppose is your dealer)....
Last edited by jeffb335; 06-22-2015 at 01:25 PM.. |
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| 06-22-2015, 01:25 PM | #12 |
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Major
 
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Try this, the amount you have to cut depends on what you are at now.. But adjusting those frequencies will make your system sound better.
And always cut, never add.
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| 06-22-2015, 01:40 PM | #13 |
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did you not load the file that Don sent you? i don't understand what the problem is.
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iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
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| 06-22-2015, 02:13 PM | #14 | |
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Second Lieutenant
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Quote:
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| 06-22-2015, 02:22 PM | #15 |
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Yeah, go with what they sent you.
You're lucky they even had that, as when I went through my install, I don't believe they had one available for me at the time. They helped a ton with frequency selection and advice along the way though. They'll be the experts to help you out there. |
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