[E92TiAg335i]

Hello.

I'm debating about getting a different turbo for my 2013 n55 6mt 335i.

I was wondering how many supporting mods are needed for PS2 vs PS1 (i'm fbo, but stock clutch.)

Also, how much is labor for each, respectively? (Approxmiately).

I keep seeing PS2 turbos, but I never see PS1.

For about $1000, the PS1 sounds pretty awesome!

[Schmidty335i]

Originally Posted by E92TiAg335i

Hello.

I'm debating about getting a different turbo for my 2013 n55 6mt 335i.

I was wondering how many supporting mods are needed for PS2 vs PS1 (i'm fbo, but stock clutch.)

Also, how much is labor for each, respectively? (Approxmiately).

I keep seeing PS2 turbos, but I never see PS1.

For about $1000, the PS1 sounds pretty awesome!

trust me you will want the PS2, just do yourself a favor and skip the PS1. even if you are on a stock clutch just run it til you need a new one and upgrade or run on lower boost.

[MTK24]

ps1 is a waste of time personally. you're going to spend 8 hours of labor installing the turbo for an only 40 whp gain?

[Turbod]

I concur with the above statements.

[MartinWake]

PS2 all the way!

[Supermoon]

It depends on what you're gonna do with your car.
The way I see it, it's all about shifting the power band to the right.
You gain top end power by sacrificing bottom end.
So, for racing, PS2 or bigger for sure but for daily driving, more turbo lag might not be what you want.

[Turbod]

Originally Posted by Supermoon

It depends on what you're gonna do with your car.
The way I see it, it's all about shifting the power band to the right.
You gain top end power by sacrificing bottom end.
So, for racing, PS2 or bigger for sure but for daily driving, more turbo lag might not be what you want.

If you had a PS2 then you would know there are no issues with daily driving and power down low. This isn't that large of a turbo. There are lots of hills when I live and even letting the auto shift itself there are no issues. I think the biggest advantage to going with the PS2 is the ability to run a little more boost on the same octane. For example, I achieved the same timing on 12 psi with the stock turbo as I did running 15 psi on the PS2. The PS1 lets you hold more boost up top than the stocker but you still need ethanol, methanol, or race fuel to really take advantage of it.

[E92TiAg335i]

Thanks for the responses, everyone!


So a PS1 takes 8 hours of labor to install?

That's way more than I thought!

[weehe126]

PS1 should only take 4ish hours. PS2 is probably 8-10 with an experienced shop.

[tyson413]

Get PS2 100% cause ones you'll get PS1 soon you'll want PS2.
PS2 is awesome

[Ozzie335i]

Once bitten by the power bug one is not enough. I originally went with PS1 as that was the only option available at the time. The amount of money for labor involved in not having to swap out the turbo the second time will offset the higher cost of getting the 2 in the first place.

[E92TiAg335i]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Once bitten by the power bug one is not enough. I originally went with PS1 as that was the only option available at the time. The amount of money for labor involved in not having to swap out the turbo the second time will offset the higher cost of getting the 2 in the first place.

If you don't mind me asking:

How much did everything cost?

Do you mind writing out the spread?

Thanks!

[maxihari]

There's at least 1600 dollar difference in initial cost.
That's huge, not to mention supporting upgrades.

PS1 850 - PS2 2500

[Turbod]

Originally Posted by E92TiAg335i

If you don't mind me asking:

How much did everything cost?

Do you mind writing out the spread?

Thanks!

PS1
Turbo - $900
Installation Kit - N/A?
Installation - $300 - $700 (Shop) Free (DIY)
Inlet - $190 (VRSF) $250 (Pure)
DV+ - $135

Total - $1,200 - $1,985

PS2
Turbo - $2,500 (Can be had for less, talk to Pure or other vendor)
Installation Kit - $100 (DIY) $220 (Pure)
Installation - $600 - 1000 (Shop) Free (DIY)
Inlet - $190 (VRSF) $250 (Pure)
DV+ - $135

Total - $2,900 - $4,105

I got my turbo for less than $2,500, pieced together my own installation kit, and installed the turbo myself. The inlet and DV+ are recommended with both but are not required. I wouldn't cut the corner and skip them though.

[drwillb]

PS1, JB4, N20 TMAP sensor (this unlocks better boost peaks and much less taper), 93 octane for me. Night and day over stock and more than enough for a DD.

When the weather warms I’ll do DME unlock and BEF. I’ll also throw on inlet and outlet pipes.

I did the installation myself so the only cost was the turbo. So, not a huge expense but I also threw in all new oil and coolant lines and DV+.

[maxihari]

"PS1, JB4, N20 TMAP sensor (this unlocks better boost peaks and much less taper), 93 octane for me. Night and day over stock and more than enough for a DD. "

Is there any information out there on this N20 TMAP sensor?

I tried the search, most of it focuses on where to get it, and how to install it...

In terms of why? pros and cons etc..

[Kevin39]

The stock TMAP sensor has a limit of something like 21PSI or what ever it is. If you're trying to run more boost than that, you'll need a different tmap sensor that has the ability to read higher. I'm surprised that didn't come up in your searches or on the sites where you can buy it

[Turbod]

Originally Posted by maxihari

"PS1, JB4, N20 TMAP sensor (this unlocks better boost peaks and much less taper), 93 octane for me. Night and day over stock and more than enough for a DD. "

Is there any information out there on this N20 TMAP sensor?

I tried the search, most of it focuses on where to get it, and how to install it...

In terms of why? pros and cons etc..

Unless you plan to run over 21 psi you don't actually need it. Mentioned above, the JB4 changes boost profiles if it is installed and enabled. It is easy to install. It is located on your chargepipe right before the intake manifold. Two screws and an electrical connector. You do need to tell your tune that you have one installed so it can scale correctly for the new sensor.