[alex sol]

Having a beast of a time with my 335d after a couple years of mostly reliable operation

recently blew a oil line#1 turbo to engine block.. replaced and ran for a couple of days now no start

i checked for fuel at filter, pre and post then fuel at the rail which i have

have a glow plug cyl#1, control - error which i have a set of replacements

pulled the intake and tested for compression 300-320 across the board after about 9-11 crank cycles

now feel the timing may be off.

have searched both google and e90post and cannot find a how to check cam timing and turning up blanks.

i have tool to spin the motor to get top dead cyl#1 etc. similar to carbon build up cleaning.. intend to do leakdown to check if valves are all closed at each mark. i would modify my compression tester to allow me to pump in 100 psi..

is there a way to check cam timing via marks on flywheel or inspection holes?

i've done timing on my porsches: 1991 964 and 1985 944 never on a bmw...

[Nadir Point]

Timing on commonrail diesels doesn't go "off" like in the old-school mechanical IC lexicon. It is electronically generated from the engine control computer to fire the injectors based on several sensor inputs and other pre-programmed settings.

[robnitro]

You are confusing. You mentioned getting check engine lights on the time it started but now saying just a glow plug code? What were the other codes???

Also if cam timing is off, I doubt you would be getting good compression.
Those numbers match this guy's good cylinders:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...08&postcount=9

[alex sol]

@nadir i suspected that timing chain 'skipping' a tooth would be potential catastrophic failure. I am going to check the crank sensor. could be simple fix and it is covered in oil from the most recent oil line failure. also, the last real drive i took was in pretty good snow storm and i am missing a undertray.. or two. when i got the car it was stupid low for our climate and road conditions.. i did replace with the stock bilsteins and got the stock (or sport) ride height back

@robnitro the only engine light i had on was glow plug.. i have a new set and will replace.. now that the intake is all off and original glow plugs removed to do the compression test... would this cause no start or more rough start / rough idle until warm?

the other 'codes' that came up were the limp mode 1/2 shaded engine and i got the ccid 184 which has to do with DTC - dynamic traction control 'active' - at the time i had the DTC off which i prefer in deep snow - much more fun and better control

a carly scan showed only the glow plug #1 - how does one know if it's a module or actually the glow plug #1. it was covered in black gooey oil vs the other five looked a nice clean white 'powdery' color - do they turn off after a time or just keep 'glowing'?

my number one suspect now is crank position sensor... which may be nadir's comment about the sensor.. cam position would be the next one that may throw off the timing? then... DDE ?

[alex sol]

also suspect the injectors may be 'leaking' and not holding the pressure. it really 'wants' to fire and when cranking it will combust once in a while

i can hear the injectors ticking away so i'm told they don't 'tick' if there is not enough fuel pressure at the rail/accumulator

[robnitro]

Do you have ista or rheingold to check lpfp pressure? You could have clogged filter and this test can help diagnose that. I think you can also check the cam sensor on there?

Glow plug module usually fails with number 5 saying it's bad. I changed the plugs and module and my old plugs tested fine with 6v battery so it was the module. Oily is probably gp1 is dead or bad connection.

[alex sol]

@robnitro i am getting the inpa. will that do the job of ista or rheingold?

[robnitro]

Inpa is not helpful, all I could find is that its in German for dde731.
Google ista rheingold torrent. You just need the ista and the sqlitedbs : other and EN the other languages are not needed.

[alex sol]

i can get a used inpa with software and plug ins that work on both my e46 m3 and 335d...

update on the crank no start... quick answer, i got it started and running nicely at idle.
turns out when i did the re and re on the turbos to fix the metal gasket between large turbo and dpf, i routed the electric wire from sensor just below the turbos (anyone know what is that sensor) incorrectly and it burned through and was shorting. Then repaired and was still shorting bc, well, i guess i need some practice on the wire joining technique.. then properly separated the two wires and fired right up.

had some other issues to fix ie: egr cooler spouting fumes out the water line on top... looked kinda cool but nasty!!

replaced fuel filter and btw to jump the low pressure fuel filter which is accessible by removing the rear seat and then 3 or 4 x 10mm nuts. the ground is towards the front the positive is towards the rear... the large wires is the giveaway that is the correct power lines to the pump... (there are two sets of wires - one with large wires that power the fuel pump and one with small wires guessing it powers the fuel level sender)

did this to purge the air and push fuel to the front of the car...

still have a bunch of error codes and limp mode (half shaded engine) so will unplug the car for a day while charging the battery.. minus 10*C outside so not in a rush to finish up.

looking forward to driving the D again after it's been out of commission for a month...

and glad it was not: injectors, glow plugs still need replacing, timing chain, high pressure or low pressure pumps, compression, cams and hope there was minimum damage from the car running seriously low on oil due to the turbo line #1 busting...

question about the glow plugs.. i had glow plug cyl #1 control error, swapped with cyl #6 and the error did not follow the glow plug... would that we the control module?? not 100% sure how to read the error

[alex sol]

to power the pump i set my battery charger on 12volts and 2 amps, comes on right away and has a low 'grunt'

i have tuned out egr and disconnected water lines to the cooler a year ago, so i took the cooler which is likely broken inside with the black soot blasting out the top (previously i had the top and bottom 'spouts' connected by a hose) and cut off both ends and reconnected with a thin aluminum plate (about the thickness of a pop can) temporarily and will get the proper block off plates and maybe even a 'race pipe egr' to to give the full unobstructed air flow a chance to get into the motor...

[alex sol]

i also learned that the injectors do not fire when you forget to plug the sensor on the firewall side of the fuel manifold / accumulator.

[robnitro]

How did that wire get burned and you had no codes? Trace it and see what it runs to...

[alex sol]

i burned the wire because i ran it 'inside' of the turbo to intercooler... then repaired the wire and ran it 'outside' and today had similar complete failure.. dangerous, was on the highway! the wire is covered with a plastic protector (for heat?) and is two wires running from bottom or large turbo sensor to the top and front of the car near the egr cooler