[JonEQuest]

I have a noise that happens when I am turning the wheel coming from what sounds like in the dash. It sounds like a motor that runs when the wheel turns and sometimes when I stop at the end of travel the groan sound slows to a pulsing groan then stops. So it can still make noise when I stop moving the wheel in other words. The noise sounds like is coming form inside the car though.
FYI. I just bought this car and only drove it twice before replacing the whole drivetrain a weeks ago. So of course I just dropped out the steering rack with sub frame, etc. etc. When I put it back together I put in new power steering fluid (the right kind) and turned the wheel side to side several times get the air out the system. This is not that kind of sound. This sound is from inside the car, really weird. I also have the "Brake" "ABS" and a "triangle circle" light on at all times even after replacing all 4 rotors, pads and sensors the other day. I bet they are related but don't know how.

[mawzi]

Your steering rack might be off. There's a little play when you're installing it, and you'll have to put it exactly the same way. Make sure the wheels are perfectly straight when tightening the bolts. Actually, maybe the steering wheel has to be straight. Someone with more experience should chime in.

After you do this, if you're still getting the lights, go get an alignment. I would do it anyways.

If you're still getting the lights, charge the battery overnight using a trickle charger. Disconnect it for 20 mins, then connect it again.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by mawzi

Your steering rack might be off. There's a little play when you're installing it, and you'll have to put it exactly the same way.

After you do this, if you're still getting the lights, go get an alignment. I would do it anyways.

If you're still getting the lights, charge the battery overnight using a trickle charger. Disconnect it for 20 mins, then connect it again.

When I put the clamp for the steering rack back on it went straight back with the little black plastic guide in the middle. It makes it hard to be off. I bet it kept me on the same exact spline notch. But if it didn't I guess I could maybe remove the wheel? The steering wheel is straight though.

[mawzi]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

When I put the clamp for the steering rack back on it went straight back with the little black plastic guide in the middle. It makes it hard to be off. I bet it kept me on the same exact spline notch. But if it didn't I guess I could maybe remove the wheel? The steering wheel is straight though.

I edited my post with more info. I had my mechanic do it. He had someone in the car holding the steering wheel straight while he tightened the bolts.

Didn't fix the problem though. Alignment did, and charging the battery. I have a shitty battery though.

He was trying to scam me by telling me I need to change my steering wheel sensor. He wanted $1,200. Lol

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Don't want to sound like a dick but have you not even read the codes? You've got warning lights on your dash that would be the 1st thing. Perhaps it's related to your steering issue

Yes, I see that too. It is just that this is a sound like as if there was an electric motor inside the car on the steering shaft that has a bad gearbox or is rubbing on something. The odd thing is sometimes if I stop the wheel it still pulses a groan a few times more slowly each time until it stops.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by mawzi

I edited my post with more info. I had my mechanic do it. He had someone in the car holding the steering wheel straight while he tightened the bolts.

Didn't fix the problem though. Alignment did, and charging the battery. I have a shitty battery though.

He was trying to scam me by telling me I need to change my steering wheel sensor. He wanted $1,200. Lol

Maybe I need to just go ahead and align the car to be sure. P. S. I am currently charging the battery. This car came with the original BMW AGM battery that was weak. During the swap I replaced it with a 3 month old (from my other 335i) H8 SLA battery. I did code it yesterday though. I may need to read it again and make sure the coding took.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

Yes, I see that too. It is just that this is a sound like as if there was an electric motor inside the car on the steering shaft that has a bad gearbox or is rubbing on something. The odd thing is sometimes if I stop the wheel it still pulses a groan a few times more slowly each time until it stops.

If you have active steering you do have an electric motor. Maybe it's going out?

[mawzi]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

Maybe I need to just go ahead and align the car to be sure. P. S. I am currently charging the battery. This car came with the original BMW AGM battery that was weak. During the swap I replaced it with a 3 month old (from my other 335i) H8 SLA battery. I did code it yesterday though. I may need to read it again and make sure the coding took.

Yes, if you're sure the rack is installed properly, go ahead and get an alignment. The noise you're hearing is the power steering pump I think. The steering wheel sensor is probably confused now. Alignment might fix that.

[JonEQuest]

I would normally agree with the pump groaning but this sounds like it is inside the dash where the all too familiar power steering pump groan is heard coming from the engine bay. I have had hoopties for over 30 years and never heard a noise like this before.

[mawzi]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I would normally agree with the pump groaning but this sounds like it is inside the dash where the all too familiar power steering pump groan is heard coming from the engine bay. I have had hoopties for over 30 years and never heard a noise like this before.

So, did you fix it? What was the problem?

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by mawzi

So, did you fix it? What was the problem?

I have not figured it out yet. It seems to happen when turning left more than right.

[mawzi]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

I have not figured it out yet. It seems to happen when turning left more than right.

Did you do an alignment, and charged the battery overnight?

[JonEQuest]

No alignment yet but the battery was charged overnight. I did notice that if I wiggle the level sensor of the left front suspension up and down the headlights don't move. I am going to pull it in my garage and get a closer look at that sensor and the wiring etc. The clip that holds it on the suspension arm has a lot of slack as well. It may have gotten damaged while pulling the engine and dropping the sub frame etc. I am not sure if loss of headlight auto adjustment is a symptom of the other problem I have of ABS/Brake/DTC yellow lights on or this sensor is the cause. Either way I need to start with what I can see is wrong. I also plan to do an alignment but I drove the car 250 miles to and from the beach and it didn't pull at all so I don't think that is it.

[VMX1]

Do you have access to a scan tool?

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by VMX1

Do you have access to a scan tool?

I have a Dcan cable for coding, etc. My steering wheel is a hair off to the right from centered but it seems like it should take more than that.

[JonEQuest]

It is odd because it "sounds like" if there was a small electric motor in the dash that turns when you turn the wheel. Then that wheel was rubbing on something.

[VMX1]

JonEQuest

Get a scan tool or borrow one that works for BMW. The lights are on on the dash and you have to start with that. See what codes you have thrown. The sound in the dash may or may not have anything to do with the lights on the dash. Those lights can mean anything from Wheel sensor to ABS/ECU. Right now all you're doing is shooting in the dark.

VMX1

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by VMX1

JonEQuest

Get a scan tool or borrow one that works for BMW. The lights are on on the dash and you have to start with that. See what codes you have thrown. The sound in the dash may or may not have anything to do with the lights on the dash. Those lights can mean anything from Wheel sensor to ABS/ECU. Right now all you're doing is shooting in the dark.

VMX1

I agree. This car also has very high miles so my plan is to replace the front strut assemblies wishbones and tie rod ends and get an alignment. I do hear some clunking going over bumps and the struts are leaking oil so they need to be replaced anyway.