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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Upgrade 328I brakes to 335 specs?



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      04-23-2019, 05:00 PM   #133
mikee5
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In the Penrith area, after fitting the relined shoes, i recommend you have the new linning about 14.mm
I found 12.5 mm resulted in using quite a bit of the adjuster to get proper shoe contact. It still adjusts up alright but i feel now that a thicker lining would be better

Mike
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      04-24-2019, 02:35 AM   #134
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I've made a error when ordering my relined hand brake shoes, the relined material should
be 16.5mm not the 12.5mm I had previously suggested and got myself.

With the 12.5mm relining on the 160mm shoe, there is not enough adjustment in the shoe expander to give a working hand brake you need the 16.5mm specified in this post.
https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...e-kit-t121655/

I'm sorry if I have misled anybody with my error and am now seeking a solution to the
problem.

I'm currently leaning to the 345x24x160mm rear rotor, but I don't know yet.

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      08-30-2019, 08:38 PM   #135
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The relined handbrake shoes were about 4mm too narrow to work properly and the adjuster mechanism did not have enough travel rectify the size difference. So I thought, “what if I drilled another retaining pin hole 4mm below the factory hole and that way move the shoe 4mm outward.
After drilling the hole I realised that although the shoe was now closer to the drum face in the rotor but it didn’t fix the adjuster mechanisms lack of travel and now the hand brakes lever mechanism didn’t properly engage either. While I could have put an insert in the adjuster to space it out, the lever mechanism still would not work.
So I gave up on the relined brake shoes, simply put if you can’t replace the factory lining with a 16.5 mm lining it simply won’t work.
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      08-30-2019, 08:39 PM   #136
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My next idea was to use the 345*24*160mm disc with a 46/24 rear calliper assembly off a 2008 550i.
Both the 325i rear disc and the 345mm disc have the same height 66mm, whereas the 335i uses a 67mm high disc. Therefore, I compared the 325i calliper carrier against the 550i calliper carrier. The 550i carrier has a much larger offset from the hub mounts to the carrier centre line than the 325i carrier and the 550i carrier would have to be machined down to 7mm thick at the mounting surface (just as Feuer machined his rear Brembo’s to 12mm) in order to centre the calliper over the disc properly. Thread reducing inserts were used to reduce the bolt sizes of the 550i carriers from 12mm to 10mm and flanged 10mm nuts were purchased to further strengthen the bolt mounting points.
I had the carriers machined, remounted my 325i factory rear rotors, fitted the 550i rear carrier and everything bolted up perfectly and the 325i rotor was centred in the middle of the carrier and I thought my problems were solved. Not even close.
I purchased 2 new DBA rotors for the rear and the EBC Redstuff pads for the 550i, painted the calliper carriers ( my intention was to reuse the 335i rear callipers already on the car as they will bolt up to the 550i carriers and will fit the 550i pads as well) and painted the new rotors to match the fronts.
I mounted the rotors but when I tried to mount the calliper carrier, it would not bolt up. When I compared the carrier, I did all my measurements against the short 325i carrier; it did not occur to me that the 550i carrier would be the wrong height, it is not as tall as a 335i carrier is and I would have known that if I didn’t only take my measurements from the 325i carrier and rotor. The only way to fix the height difference would be by making an adapter or welding an extension onto the calliper or hub mounts (definitely not a good idea).
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      08-30-2019, 08:43 PM   #137
mikee5
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After wasting time and money on the relined brake shoes and the 345 rotors and 550i callipers, I decided to go the modified brake shoe route. As in my previous posts I was unable to get a brake service shop to reduce the 345 rotor diameter to 336mm nor could I get them to do the brake shoe mod for me. Therefore, I went around to the sheet metal fabrication businesses near me.
Finally, things went my way; I went into a workshop in my local area and spoke to young man at the counter, turns out he was a prior e90 323i owner and he had always been unhappy with the 323i brakes, and was happy to help. I showed him what I needed, he suggested that he use a computerised laser to cut the 325i shoe profile into 4mm steel plate and TIG weld it to the 335i shoes. As it was a busy shop the job took 2 weeks but only a couple of hours of actual fabrication time as well as the time to copy and load the profile into the computer.
The shoes only needed a bit filing with a flat file on a couple of welds to cleanly fit the shoe expander and hand brake mechanism, everything was painted for rust prevention and then bolted up, the rotor was a tight fit to put on but it fits and the hand brake now works perfectly.
As my car is an automatic I don’t expect the handbrake shoes to ever wear out, but if they do I can easily get them relined. If anybody in Australia wants the fabricators contact details, send me a PM, I don’t want to break any rules by posting his details on the forum. Also if anybody wants a cheap pair of DBA 42677 rotors and or 550i rear EBC Redstuff pads painted but never used, just contact me.
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      09-04-2019, 10:38 AM   #138
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Does anyone sell or is willing to fabricate parking brake pads for with this conversion? I will need to replace my rear brakes soon and figured, I might as well upgrade.
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      09-21-2019, 10:15 PM   #139
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Are both the standard front and rear 335i 335xi 335is calipers made of aluminum?

I just bought a pair marked 44/22 for $86 on eBay with good condition. Refurbed front sets can be had for $149.

I looked up on Turner Motorsports. LCI 2011 328xi has same rear brake shoes as LCI or non pre-LCI 335i or 335xi.

So the rear wheel disc will fit right on. Dust shield is another story. You can always just find a wrecked 335i and switch entire wheel spindle with dust shield and everything.

LCI WILL have different axle drive shaft and wheel hub that mates to the axle. All LCI have the same shaft teeth and swaps right over.

335i LCI and 135i use Genuine BMW Rear Brake Rotor Pair (336x22) - E84 E9X
Genuine BMW
T#: 341200 | Part#: 34216855004KT

All 328xi LCI and Pre-LCI use Genuine BMW Rear Brake Rotor Set (300x20)
Genuine BMW
T#: 377214 | Part#: 34216864901KT

Last edited by Soravia; 09-22-2019 at 12:48 AM..
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      02-28-2024, 04:50 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
Since the same master is used on several different models, mainly the 6cyl models, we can confidently conclude it is well capable of supporting a full front and rear BBK - like on a stock E82 135i. Because each vehicle model has different calipers with different piston sizes and piston quantities, and different rotor sizes just to further complicate the issue at hand, the only way BMW can get away with using the same master cylinder across so many models is to program the DSC control unit to suit the brake dimensions. This is a cost cutting measure which makes it difficult for us at home to make improvements to what is already a great system synonymous with BMW cars.

The 335i's stock calipers (front and rear) have a very similar fluid volume requirement ratio to the M3. So if one was to do a front and rear suspension and brake swap on their 335i using M3 parts, they would notice their brake pedal travels further than it used to. Doing front only and they might notice the pedal travel is similar to before. If the 335i was to be fitted with the BMWP brake kit (if one really must), the rears would again receive too much fluid. Fitting an M3 master to a stock 335i would probably yield a higher pedal, which is negated once the BBK is fitted. This is because the M3 master has a much higher volume output with the same given pedal stroke compared to the 335i's master - otherwise pedal stroke would vary between the two cars.
You compare the 335 and M3... Do you have any idea of the fluid change necessary for a 328 to 335 upgrade, or are they similar enough to be almost the same?
I've heard people say no coding is necessary if only upgrading the front. Others saying it's not needed. Others that it is.
Wondering if the fluid levels are very different or how similar.
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