[eljay]

Let's play 'spot the difference'!

[4 Doors]

Originally Posted by eljay

Let's play 'spot the difference'!

Euro outer LCI lights? Looks nice!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by 4 Doors

Euro outer LCI lights? Looks nice!

Ding ding ding! You sir win 20 Internets!

Yes, they make a nice difference and the installation is very easy:
- lift the cargo floor cover
- pop out the side covers (two twist rivets on the passenger side)
- remove the tail light connector
- remove three 8mm nuts on each tail light
- slide out
- clean the area
- reverse the process





And the obligatory" peeling off the protective film" shot, because apparently that's the thing to do these days from what I hear as I'm not on social media ...practicing my social distancing!

[eljay]

Took my car in to have the A/C checked and got a report that refrigerant is leaking from the back of the compressor. Is that a common failure for these? I've never heard of that. Typically, compressors wear out or lock up, but leaking "from the back" sounds strange.
I don't have tools to pressurize/vacuum load the system to see myself.

If that's the case, it sound like I need a new compressor.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by neilvan

I have an M-sport car and got the reflectors filled in when I got it painted; Wellllll worth it! For the fog lights you can refinish them with a headlight kit OR 04-07 E60/E61(non-m-sport) have the same fog lights if there is a good used set near you.

For the steering wheel trim I stripped my stock M-sport wheel trim(as they all bubble) and painted it with an outdoor flat paint; Looks 100% oem and will be way more durable

A question on filling in the side reflectors: did you (or your shop) remove the reflectors and filled in the gap with some plastic piece or did you leave the reflectors in and just filled around them and then sanded down for a smooth surface?

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by eljay

Took my car in to have the A/C checked and got a report that refrigerant is leaking from the back of the compressor. Is that a common failure for these? I've never heard of that. Typically, compressors wear out or lock up, but leaking "from the back" sounds strange.
I don't have tools to pressurize/vacuum load the system to see myself.

If that's the case, it sound like I need a new compressor.

common leak point is the line next to the passenger fender, there a direct access for water and dirt from the wheel. The alu line oxidize and leak. I used concrete wall membrane to cap this hole.

I removed the line from my car to get it welded, but too lazy , and new line are super expensive , at least for the 'winter beater' status.



Anyway, starting thinking about my own 'sportification e91', looking for a e90 335xi 6mt donor car, but in canada not much luck. salvage cars are almost the same price as a fully functional used one....

[eljay]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

common leak point is the line next to the passenger fender, there a direct access for water and dirt from the wheel. The alu line oxidize and leak. I used concrete wall membrane to cap this hole.

I removed the line from my car to get it welded, but too lazy , and new line are super expensive , at least for the 'winter beater' status.



Anyway, starting thinking about my own 'sportification e91', looking for a e90 335xi 6mt donor car, but in canada not much luck. salvage cars are almost the same price as a fully functional used one....

Thanks for the tip!
Since I have no pressure in my system, I would like to just hook up my compressor and pull a vacuum and confirm where it's leaking. But all the AC gauges sold around here are meant to be used to refill the system.
Any links where I could get a proper line with an adapter for the AC with a venturi valve to create vacuum?

[oVeRdOsE.]

I just used a leak UV tracer, 15$ at CT.

I heard it way before seeing it, and it was leaking on the passenger wheel.


BUT , I might think most shop that would purge and refill the system WON'T do it if you used a tracer, since it will contaminate their machine.

But Im not sure if its true or not, only internet serious stuff reading, I did not called any shop yet.


But before getting headache with a kit, most shop will do a leak test for cheap.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

I just used a leak UV tracer, 15$ at CT.

I heard it way before seeing it, and it was leaking on the passenger wheel.


BUT , I might think most shop that would purge and refill the system WON'T do it if you used a tracer, since it will contaminate their machine.

But Im not sure if its true or not, only internet serious stuff reading, I did not called any shop yet.


But before getting headache with a kit, most shop will do a leak test for cheap.

Yes, the shop I took it to said it's the compressor itself leaking and I need a new one. I just thought I'd verify before spending $$ plus I would replacing the condenser too, so it's not going to be a cheap service.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by eljay

Yes, the shop I took it to said it's the compressor itself leaking and I need a new one. I just thought I'd verify before spending $$ plus I would replacing the condenser too, so it's not going to be a cheap service.

I did it on my audi not long ago, changes the condenser, the dryer and the pressure sensor. I also get a oring seal kit. On rock auto, that was pretty cheap, and easy to change.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

I did it on my audi not long ago, changes the condenser, the dryer and the pressure sensor. I also get a oring seal kit. On rock auto, that was pretty cheap, and easy to change.

Yes, I replaced the same on my B6 Avant as well.

[eljay]

Soooo, I was about to order a compressor/condenser/dryer/seals and then I thought I'd get a second opinion. I took it to a different shop and told them that there's no pressure and to see where the leak is. They tested the system and ran a 10-min leak test on their machine without any pressure loss. They refilled refrigerant and added dye just in case it starts to leak somewhere. Anyways, I'm pissed at the first shop trying to sell me $1200 OEM or $1000 Denso (what a deal!) compressor. The A/C is back. I will check pressures in a couple of weeks and see how it's holding up.

In other news, I lowered my rear window and upon closing heard a crack and now it won't move. Sigh. Regulator replacement time. Lovely.

[eljay]

Well, I decided to tackle susoension refresh.
It's not going well.
First, I had to torch the tie rod adjuster nut to break it loose, then I proceeded to remove the strut and the strut housing pinch bolt head snapped off!
So, I went to the store and got myself an air hammer and despite having a tiny compressor, it actually worked and I managed to get the bolt out.
I finally got the strut out and disassembled it, only to find thag the top spring perch is not in a great shape, so I should really order new ones. Who knows when those will arrive if I order them on Monday. Then I tried to see if my oxygen socket would work on the strut nut. Nope, the sockets are too thick to fit inside the strut mount!!! Grreat, so now I need to find a strut mount socket in a hurry somewhere. I think I will just buy a 21mm long socket and cut out one side with my cutoff wheel or dremel. Hopefully, that will work.
So, I thought I'd get started on the rear. Yeah right. Fought with the stabiler link nut for 30 mins and called it the night (3rd night, BTW).

Amd I still foolishly think that I can replace rear control arm bushings that are surely rusted on to hell. Oh, and I'm overdue on bushing removal kit rental.
FUn!!

In summary: working on Northern cars takes 10x as long as any DIY would suggest.

[jacbo]

Originally Posted by eljay

Well, I decided to tackle susoension refresh.
It's not going well.
First, I had to torch the tie rod adjuster nut to break it loose, then I proceeded to remove the strut and the strut housing pinch bolt head snapped off!
So, I went to the store and got myself an air hammer and despite having a tiny compressor, it actually worked and I managed to get the bolt out.
I finally got the strut out and disassembled it, only to find thag the top spring perch is not in a great shape, so I should really order new ones. Who knows when those will arrive if I order them on Monday. Then I tried to see if my oxygen socket would work on the strut nut. Nope, the sockets are too thick to fit inside the strut mount!!! Grreat, so now I need to find a strut mount socket in a hurry somewhere. I think I will just buy a 21mm long socket and cut out one side with my cutoff wheel or dremel. Hopefully, that will work.
So, I thought I'd get started on the rear. Yeah right. Fought with the stabiler link nut for 30 mins and called it the night (3rd night, BTW).

Amd I still foolishly think that I can replace rear control arm bushings that are surely rusted on to hell. Oh, and I'm overdue on bushing removal kit rental.
FUn!!

In summary: working on Northern cars takes 10x as long as any DIY would suggest.

Sounds like the same as working on cars in the UK. A blow torch is vital to complete even a simple task. It does make you appreciate the effort mechanics put into working on rusty cars.

[Tambohamilton]

I ground spanner flats on a deep socket to do my strut tops. It's not even offended me enough to buy a replacement for my set.

My best advice for rusty stuff is to open with your best option. If it comes off easy, great...if not, you at least have your best shot at getting it, rather than rounding off the head a bit with a half-assed attempt first. Good luck!

[M-technik-3]

I feel your pain, I wanted to do my front struts for the past few weeks but weather has prevented me. Garage has been full of too many things. I am down to one car registered so it would need to go as planned vs running into issues.

I hope you get everything resolved soon. When are you getting your front bumper painted and mounted?

[eljay]

Thanks for peer support and commiseration!

Yesterday, I undid the rear sway bar links, only to discover that Lemforder replacements don't include nuts and bolt! The fronts do, but rears don't. WTF! This stuff drives me nuts and it's why my car will sit apart for weeks.

I managed to get one rear shock out and removed the bottom bolt from the "swivel support", but cannot slip it off the wheel knuckle to get the spring out!
This project is moving at one bolt per hour pace.

[eljay]

Oh, the bumper will be the next project, whenever that happens.

[jacbo]

Originally Posted by eljay

I managed to get one rear shock out and removed the bottom bolt from the "swivel support", but cannot slip it off the wheel knuckle to get the spring out!
This project is moving at one bolt per hour pace.

to be clear are you struggling to get the rear shock absorber out?

I replaced mine few weeks ago but i bought all new hardwear bits and rubber parts too. I removed the main bolt underneath the shock but the shock body was stuck in the rubber mount, i had new rubber mounts for the new shocks so i just ripped them out as one piece along with the actual shock absorber.

if you have any pics of what exactly you are struggling with i'll be able to help.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by jacbo

to be clear are you struggling to get the rear shock absorber out?

I replaced mine few weeks ago but i bought all new hardwear bits and rubber parts too. I removed the main bolt underneath the shock but the shock body was stuck in the rubber mount, i had new rubber mounts for the new shocks so i just ripped them out as one piece along with the actual shock absorber.

if you have any pics of what exactly you are struggling with i'll be able to help.

Thanks. I managed to get the shock out together with the rubber mount. I had to pry a angle the rubber mount out of the control arm.

My issue now is to get the spring out as the control arm will not swing down from the knuckle. As I plan to replace (famous last words hoping the rusted bushing will slide out) the inner bushing, I will just remove the entire control from the subframe.

The piece of the control arm that sits across the knuckle will not clear it as you can see in the picture.

[nsjames]

I undid the eccentric on the chassis side as it was going to go to the alignment shop right after.

It was easier and looked way less manky than the bolt at the hub.
use a jack under the control arm to put it back in place.
kind of sketchy, but not really if you know what I'm saying.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

I undid the eccentric on the chassis side as it was going to go to the alignment shop right after.

It was easier and looked way less manky than the bolt at the hub.
use a jack under the control arm to put it back in place.
kind of sketchy, but not really if you know what I'm saying.

Yep, makes sense.
I ended up removing the whole control arm.
Then I tried to press out the inner bushing, but I rented a big bushing removal set, so it didn't work so well, so I pushed it back in and decided that I will do all the control arms and install coilovers and links and leave the bushings for a shop to do.